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latest bit of joy. "photo of a Satsansa printing... with tree supports enabled..." ............ WHY. Just... WHY.
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Mar 4, 2021 04:56
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Anyone know what Ender 3 duct this is? I had it on a machine I gave away. It broke, the owner put the stock parts back on but says its crap (my recollection of it too). Of course I didn't save it anywhere, and now can't find it  E: i should clarify. Its a mount for the heat break fan and BLtouch, and the fan duct just kinda clips over it, without being mechanically fastened. EE: reason i can't find it is because it was deleted from thingiverse 
simmyb fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Mar 4, 2021 |
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Mar 4, 2021 05:50
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simmyb posted:Anyone know what Ender 3 duct this is? Petsfang or bullseye? Bunch of versions up in thingiverse
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Mar 4, 2021 06:02
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I'm trying to print PETG on my Ender 3 for the first time and I'm getting a buildup of filament that slowly accumulates on the tip of the nozzle as it prints the first few layers. I'm running my extruder at 240 and the bed at 85. My initial calicat print came out fine, but the issue presented itself when trying to print a box with a big flat area on the first few layers. I thought I was over extruding at first and recalibrated my e steps. It helped with another issue but the blob still remains. I did see a few signs of over extrusion still so I may try dropping my e steps a little further, but could it be something else?
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Mar 4, 2021 06:31
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Someone here printed that cool looking skull dice tower recently, how practical is it as a dice tower?
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Mar 4, 2021 14:55
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Oh hey, speaking of fan ducts, now that I have a printer that I would trust with higher temp material, what kind of filament should I use for hot end mods like fan mounts and ducts for my Ender?
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Mar 4, 2021 14:56
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cf-abs. easily my favorite general-propose printing material now
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Mar 4, 2021 15:41
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If the printer screams when moving in one (diagonal) direction, that's probably a rail lubrication issue, right?
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Mar 4, 2021 16:22
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if your printer screams and bleeds you need a priest, not an internet forum
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Mar 4, 2021 17:02
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Deviant posted:if your printer screams and bleeds you need a priest, not an internet forum What nozzle temp do you use for demonic ichor? 666º?
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Mar 4, 2021 17:05
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Jaded Burnout posted:If the printer screams when moving in one (diagonal) direction, that's probably a rail lubrication issue, right? That or whatever driver is responsible for the movement is having trouble. Really depends on where the scream is coming from. Electronics panel? Stepper motor? Rail?
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Mar 4, 2021 17:09
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cakesmith handyman posted:Someone here printed that cool looking skull dice tower recently, how practical is it as a dice tower? It's pretty loving good. You can pop dice through one eye or both. I haven't had call to cram a bunch in at once, though
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Mar 4, 2021 17:24
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biracial bear for uncut posted:That or whatever driver is responsible for the movement is having trouble. Hard to say, it's real fuckin' loud. I'll see if I can pinpoint it on the next print.
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Mar 4, 2021 17:34
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I was the dice tower guy. Work in progress as a terrain piece but it's legit as hell
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Mar 4, 2021 18:53
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Uh... hello. I recently got a Prusa (not preassembled) and started printing Benchys. Just wondering if it looks okay? I'm noticing a lot of artifacts on it (see captions below) and maybe there's more calibration I can do to minimize them.  Back plate text is illegible  Top part of windows is flat and a little messed up. Also there's a crease on the chimney. Is that part unavoidable? Btw, I'm just using gcode that came with the SD card so I can't change it directly, or at least I don't know how to yet. Can I assume that this file is perfect since it's been fussed over and run on tons of similar, existing printers? Thanks!
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Mar 4, 2021 19:12
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Those are all normal expected features of a 3D printed part. Yes, the sliced g-code that comes with the printer is correct. The back text being illegible is because it's made up of maybe 15 Z-layers and that's just how features like that look. You should be able to get it to look cleaner with a lower layer height (I believe the default on that print is 0.2, which is average) but what you are seeing is normal. The overhang on the door is drooping slightly because it's unsupported. You can chase better overhangs by playing with the temperature and cooling but you will never get them perfect without a soluble support material. That part of the Benchy is designed to show you how your printer's overhang performance is. What you have looks normal for a Prusa (i.e. about as good as expected without soluble supports). The seam along the smokestack is the result of the printer starting and stopping each layer at a consistent point. There will always be a subtle mark where that occurs, so your choices are either to randomize it (which puts tiny dots and holes scattered around the part) or align it in a specific location that isn't visually important. The slicing software has tools to indicate where you want the seam to go. I see no reason to try to recalibrate the machine at this point. Just start printing your own stuff and have fun. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Mar 4, 2021 |
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Mar 4, 2021 19:35
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Uh... hello. I recently got a Prusa (not preassembled) and started printing Benchys. Just wondering if it looks okay? I'm noticing a lot of artifacts on it (see captions below) and maybe there's more calibration I can do to minimize them. I've tried to quickly replicate your photos using a Benchy that I printed on a pre-assembled Prusa using the included PLA, so it should be as close as possible to the same as yours. Printed with the same gcode (assuming it hasn't changed much in the last few months). Click for (very) big.    The default file is indeed sliced at 0.2mm, so you could get a higher print resolution by slicing the original file (which I guess is on the internet somewhere) using the free software PrusaSlicer.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:40
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Holy crap, you printed that just now? It takes mine slightly longer than 2 hours to print. Also, I notice the chimney seam is very thin and straight. Could this be due to more precise xy calibration?
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Mar 4, 2021 19:47
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When Cory Parsnipson posted about this in his own thread and I recommended he come here, I ran off a Benchy on my MK3S and it looked a lot better...but I'm loaded for PETG, not PLA which is what the stock gcode wants, so I downloaded it and sliced it at 0.15mm because that's what the PrusaPrinters.org gcode is at. If the stock gcode is really at 0.2mm then I did a bad test  e: strange, no chimney seam or rear hull seam on mine either even though PrusaSlicer is configured for Nearest and not Random
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Mar 4, 2021 19:48
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Holy crap, you printed that just now? It takes mine slightly longer than 2 hours to print. No I already had it printed from when I finally got around to setting the printer up last week. It happened to be within arm's reach  csammis posted:When Cory Parsnipson posted about this in his own thread and I recommended he come here, I ran off a Benchy on my MK3S and it looked a lot better...but I'm loaded for PETG, not PLA which is what the stock gcode wants, so I downloaded it and sliced it at 0.15mm because that's what the PrusaPrinters.org gcode is at. If the stock gcode is really at 0.2mm then I did a bad test I've just checked the SD file and you're right, it's 0.15mm.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:49
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Also, I notice the chimney seam is very thin and straight. Could this be due to more precise xy calibration? Possibly, could also just be lighting.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:53
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Also, I notice the chimney seam is very thin and straight. Could this be due to more precise xy calibration? No, that's a trick of the light and/or a slightly different looking filament. If there was something wrong with the XY axes you'd see problems all over the print. Again I would suggest that you just start printing stuff, and if the things you're making have a specific issue that causes you problems, then you can dig into that. Don't waste time trying to optimize away the last tiny bit of (normal, expected) error before you've even started using the machine. Down that road just lies a bunch of cargo-culted changes that gently caress everything up. I am saying this purely for informational purposes: the size of the seam can be affected by the filament K-factor setting and the mechanical assembly of the extruder. If your extruder idler is not screwed down tightly enough, if the drive gear is not properly attached to the motor shaft, or if the K-factor is too high you might see a larger concavity along the seam. You can think about whether you might need to go back and check your extruder assembly, but please don't start changing things right away before you've done anything but test parts. It's like people buying graphics cards and getting 0.2% less on the benchmark than some reviewer got and immediately starting to panic. Just use the drat thing, it's probably perfectly fine Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Mar 4, 2021 |
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Mar 4, 2021 19:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:No I already had it printed from when I finally got around to setting the printer up last week. It happened to be within arm's reach Oh duh, I misread your last post. Sagebrush posted:Again I would suggest that you just start printing stuff, and if the things you're making have a specific issue that causes you problems, then you can dig into that. Don't waste time trying to optimize away the last tiny bit of (normal, expected) error before you've even started using the machine. Down that road just lies a bunch of cargo-culted changes that gently caress everything up. Sounds good. I also think maybe the temperature is slightly too high, but it's not a big deal right now. Thanks for the help!
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Mar 4, 2021 20:22
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Sagebrush posted:Those are all normal expected features of a 3D printed part. Yes, the sliced g-code that comes with the printer is correct. Huh, that bridging is pretty poor. I'd expect better from a Prusa.
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Mar 4, 2021 20:57
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_5hLg3JoaE&t=4s My package of Voron V0 parts showed up. It's... ridiculously complete. The parts are all of at ~least~ acceptable quality, if not good. Instead of "just what was needed" in several cases whole kits of parts were sent. Also, lots of name brand gear was shipped. I'm pleased.
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Mar 4, 2021 21:27
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Huh, that bridging is pretty poor. I'd expect better from a Prusa. I didn't want to say anything since I think sagebrush is basically right about not obsessing over small quality issues, but I noticed that, too. The quality of the back part of the hull where the writing is looks a little gnarly, but the bridging really stood out. It seems iffy enough that I'd be concerned about using supports on parts that shouldn't really need supports.
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Mar 5, 2021 01:11
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Seems like if they dial in the filament settings and sets the seam to random, it'll all be fine.
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Mar 5, 2021 01:19
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Yeah, it seems like either cooling or temperature, which would also explain the extra stringiness.
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Mar 5, 2021 01:25
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Any idea why my nozzle temp is defaulting to 120 on my ender 3 all of a sudden? Something in prusaslicer maybe? Preheat PLA temp is still 210 on the machine
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Mar 5, 2021 02:56
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w00tmonger posted:Any idea why my nozzle temp is defaulting to 120 on my ender 3 all of a sudden? Something in prusaslicer maybe? Preheat PLA temp is still 210 on the machine Holy poo poo I thought I screwed up the temps when I sliced a bunch of stuff. Both my Creality printers do that. Must be something borked in the last config update.
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Mar 5, 2021 04:40
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So I'm looking to get into small time hobbyist beginner 3D printing and the little research I have done so far led me to the Creality 3D® Ender-3 Pro. Watched a review and it seems good value for the money. The fact that you now can print soft rubber blew my mind a bit! Should I explore this model more, or am I wasting my time and YouTubers are shills or something? I don't have any specific projects, but printing minor hard to find plastic car stuff would be cool.
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Mar 5, 2021 16:11
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MrOnBicycle posted:So I'm looking to get into small time hobbyist beginner 3D printing and the little research I have done so far led me to the Creality 3D® Ender-3 Pro. Watched a review and it seems good value for the money. The fact that you now can print soft rubber blew my mind a bit! The E3 is a great starting point. Ive had one for a year and still use it. I don't know how good it is for rubbery materials though, I pretty much only print in PLA.
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Mar 5, 2021 16:22
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It's a cheap enough starter printer to find out if you really enjoy the hobby or not, sure. (especially since Monoprice seems to have fallen out of favor/behind the technology curve, though the 1-year warranty is still pretty nice).
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Mar 5, 2021 16:34
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Isn't the ender 3 V2 slightly better than the pro? I don't think the pro has the trinamic drivers
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Mar 5, 2021 16:54
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^^ I'll check it out. I'm not opposed to the price hike it's a better buy. Still pretty cheap. Ok cool. Excited about getting into 3D printing. Next question, what filaments should I get as a starter kit while I'm ordering? I trust the filament included will be pretty limited in quantity. The Creality 3D® Ender-3 Pro is pretty cheap, so I'll probably order it later today.
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Mar 5, 2021 16:55
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mewse posted:Isn't the ender 3 V2 slightly better than the pro? I don't think the pro has the trinamic drivers Having both Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2 side by side, I’d suggest picking the V2 if the extra ~$80 isn’t a dealbreaker. Having the 32bit silent board and a handful of upgrades out of the box is pretty sweet.
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Mar 5, 2021 17:27
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MrOnBicycle posted:^^ I'll check it out. I'm not opposed to the price hike it's a better buy. Still pretty cheap. If you want to go getting it fast but basic, Hatchbox on Amazon is acceptable. If you don't mind waiting a little longer, Matterhackers Build PLA is really nice and quite reasonable in price. That's my default go-to. If you don't mind paying for shipping from Prague, Prusament PLA is very well regarded for quality. The Creality filament they ship with lately has been pretty drat nice, actually. But not worth having to order from them to get.
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Mar 5, 2021 17:39
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MrOnBicycle posted:^^ I'll check it out. I'm not opposed to the price hike it's a better buy. Still pretty cheap. The 3, pro, v2 etc are all within a degree of each other so just try and find a good sale. If you want to print flexible filament you'll likely need to swap the extruder around to a direct drive which the ender 3 doesn't have. That said there's really good community support and there's probably a simple mod you could print to rework it into a dire drive style extruder
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Mar 5, 2021 17:49
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MrOnBicycle posted:^^ I'll check it out. I'm not opposed to the price hike it's a better buy. Still pretty cheap. Order some Jessie from PrintedSolid.
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Mar 5, 2021 18:21
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Nerobro posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_5hLg3JoaE&t=4s I wish I had done this. I'm in for like $800 on my V0 and it's still not done.
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Mar 5, 2021 18:29
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