|
Savington posted:I swear this came from a Miata Wait wait wait... the date on that says 3/12/09. This is your car? You seriously got it fixed already? e: also, why are your AFRs so low? 10.5 seems ridiculously rich. I figured 12-12.5 was really as rich as you needed to go? Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Mar 15, 2009 |
#
?
Mar 15, 2009 18:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 18:24 |
|
|
Nice turnaround Sav, what was that, less than two weeks?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2009 20:11
|
|
|
Just how fast/slow is a stock Miata (1.8 NA to be particular)? I've got a chance to pick one up cheap, and while I don't really need it, I admit it would be nice to have a fun little car that gets reasonable gas mileage. I'm just afraid it will be downright slow. This wouldn't be a problem if I could drive the thing for a while to get a feel for it, but unfortunately it's far enough away that I don't want to go all the way out there just to come back empty handed. I've only driven 2 Miatas, and the first was a 90 "modified" with a fartcan exhaust and super-sized DUBS that were completely unbalanced and made the whole car shimmy like a wet dog. The second was an NB that had been in a head-on collision with a bent frame, and I had to drive while looking through the gaping hole in the windshield through which the previous driver had been ejected. So you can see, I probably don't have a very clear perspective on what makes these cars special. I know they handle very well, and I know this thread is full of pro-Miata folk, but I'd love an honest opinion on engine performance. I'd just like to know I can pull up to a stoplight without worrying I'll be humiliated by some grandma in a beige Camry before I buy it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2009 21:33
|
|
|
Symphoric posted:Just how fast/slow is a stock Miata (1.8 NA to be particular)? Fast is a pretty relative term. In a straight line, a stock 1.8 NA can do about a low 8.x second 0-60. Frankly, if you're looking for a stoplight drag racer, you're going to get walked by newer V6 Accords and Camrys. In 1995 that wasn't necessarily the case, but in 2009 even premium economy cars will do sub-7 second 0-60 runs. However, the moment you are in any sort of corners, you will run away from most everything that isn't a "real" sports car. On a winding road with tight corners, a Miata is a very fast car. When you don't have to slow down, the slower acceleration means a lot less. Regardless, you will never, ever, ever be struggling to keep up with traffic. In my 95, I usually out-accelerate most cars on the road, and I'm far from flooring it at every light. If you're looking for a cheap stoplight drag racer, get a Mustang. If you're looking for a car that's fun in bursts longer than 6 seconds, get a Miata (or other well handling car). Go test drive a local car in decent shape to get a feel for it. Also, none of this really applies to the NC, as it is a considerably quicker car. It's 0-60 is more in the low-mid 6 second range.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2009 22:36
|
|
|
You'll get humiliated by a grandma in a Camry. 0-60 is 8 seconds. If you want straightline performance out of the box -- buy something else.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2009 22:37
|
|
|
Guinness posted:a stock 1.8 NA can do about a low 8.x second 0-60 The 1.8L first gen does the 0-60 dance in about 9.5 seconds. The NC is mid-7s. edit- The Miata is a momentum car. It isn't fast by any means of the word, but it is agile. You can brake later and harder than most cars out there and carry a faster speed through corners. This applies to the NC Miata, too. Phone fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Mar 15, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2009 22:39
|
|
|
Phone posted:The 1.8L first gen does the 0-60 dance in about 9.5 seconds. The 1.6 NA is mid 9s. Everything I can find for the stock 1.8 NA says mid 8s. And Car and Driver says 6.5 seconds on the NC: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/hot_lists/car_shopping/droptop_depot/mazda_mx_5_road_test+page-3.html
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2009 22:46
|
|
|
Mazda says 7.9s for 0-60 on the NC. I thought it was well-established that C&D is full of crazies.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2009 22:48
|
|
|
Guinness posted:If you're looking for a cheap stoplight drag racer, get a Mustang. If you're looking for a car that's fun in bursts longer than 6 seconds, get a Miata (or other well handling car). Go test drive a local car in decent shape to get a feel for it. Mid 7's wouldn't be too bad for 0-60 time though, is modding the 1.8 to this level easy or does it take major work? edit: vvvvv I see. Maybe I'll get a BEGi kit and make a project out of it. Could be fun. vvvvvv Symphoric fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Mar 16, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 00:02
|
|
|
Mid 7s is easy with a turbo. NA is an expensive/worthless route.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 00:05
|
|
|
Spring is here and all is right with the world.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 00:53
|
|
|
drat, you beat me to the punch of putting back on my RS2s.  An alignment is in store this week, though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 00:59
|
|
|
Hey, I get to join in the putting-on-RS2 party too! Except I never took mine off, and the reason I have to put new ones on is because the alignment in the rear is apparently off enough to demolish the inner shoulder of the tires. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 01:59
|
|
|
Symphoric posted:I'll probably just buy it and see how I like it, since I'm pretty sure I can resell for more anyway. Very cool, be sure to come back and post what you think about it if you do pick it up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 02:14
|
|
|
Symphoric posted:Mid 7's wouldn't be too bad for 0-60 time though, is modding the 1.8 to this level easy or does it take major work? Now we're talking. A turbo NA would be both a great project and a great car. Mid 7s 0-60 would be easy to do, and naturally the sky is the limit. We've got a couple people around especially well versed in turbo Miatas. Look at Savington's car for inspiration. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 02:57
|
|
|
Symphoric posted:Just how fast/slow is a stock Miata (1.8 NA to be particular)? Pretty slow, but its a more fun slow than the slow of something like a Civic. Phone posted:Mid 7s is easy with a turbo. I couldnt agree with this more. Dont kid yourself by buying N/A bolt-ons and expecting any dramatic differences, or even small differences.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 04:44
|
|
|
Savington posted:I swear this came from a Miata idgi, why is that hard to believe?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 05:19
|
|
|
Phone posted:Mazda says 7.9s for 0-60 on the NC. I thought it was well-established that C&D is full of crazies.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 06:44
|
|
|
destructo posted:Nice turnaround Sav, what was that, less than two weeks? 8.5 days. Would have been under a week, but I had to wait for a BSP to NPT adapter that held me up for 2 days. Miatas make the most power around 11.6:1.I tune a little richer than that, usually around 11.0-11.2:1 for safety. My fuel map is basically untuned right now; I'm going to work on it when I get some time in the next few weeks and head back to the dyno in a month or two with a couple of maps to try.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 09:30
|
|
|
Savington posted:8.5 days. Would have been under a week, but I had to wait for a BSP to NPT adapter that held me up for 2 days. Interesting, I'd never heard that before. Mind you, most of the time I just mindlessly do whatever Corky Bell tells me to do. I thought he aims for 12.5-13 (but maybe that's at lower boost)... I suppose there's probably a significant difference in economy? edit: for what it's worth, I'm at about 12.1 at 9psi (figuring that was low enough to be safe), but I haven't been to the dyno yet. My timing map is the stock MSPnP one, so I just sort of assume it's safe (can't hear anything and KSMS doesn't light up). Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Mar 16, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 16:27
|
|
|
Sav, any idea on what happened to cause your motor to blow?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 16:39
|
|
|
Hey guys im in need of some advice: The girlfriends getting out of her horrible old (wrecked and badly repaired, which she didnt know until i told her) honda accord and has about $3,000-$3500 to spend on a car, being a frequenter of this forum and a detractor of horrible old boring cars i suggested a mazda miata. So off i set for craigslist and looked for a good manual example for this price and pretty much all i can find are old 1990-1993 cars (which i dont mind, popup lights rock!) with 140,000 miles plus (which i do mind, she cant afford another car thats falling apart). Is a lower milage example unrealistic in this price range? This is a teenage blonde girl who cant tell the differance between exaust fog and blown head gasket smoke, and im busy with a camaro (the most unreliable car in the world) so i dont really want to fix it everytime in breaks. What suggestions can you offer to a possible buyer?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 23:04
|
|
|
If there's documentation, there's no need to fear a 120k+ car. I bought my 94 with 144k on the clock last year with no documentation. I kinda got screwed a bit, but the maintenance that I had done was all of the normal stuff that needs to be done. So far this year, I'm only 30 dollars into maintenance costs because I changed my oil, and the only thing I see in the foreseeable future is changing out a wheel bearing. They're really, really solid cars. Just keep up with what little maintenance they need, and they'll keep chugging along.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 23:08
|
|
|
MattD1zzl3 posted:Hey guys im in need of some advice: You might be able to find something a little closer to 100,000 miles if you spent the time looking, but even 140k will be extremely reliable provided the maintenance has been kept up with. I got my 92 with 129k on it and am just over 150k now with no major issues except for my spark plug blowing out of the head which is not normal. I've got a rebuilt head on the way and once thats on I'm sure i wont have any more issues for a long while. Provided the timing belt, water pump, radiator and hoses have been replaced, or you plan on replacing them soon after buying the car, it will last a long time with no issues.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2009 23:11
|
|
|
So theres no way around spending a few thousand follwed immediatly by a few hundred right afterwards. To say nothing of the clutch on someone who has never driven a stick...
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2009 05:12
|
|
|
I'm the fourth owner of a 1990, bought it at 170k (182k now), and besides having the timing belt done (every 60k, so it would have been due regardless) and needing a new 02 sensor I've had to do no maintenance other than replacing all the lubricants and the coolant. So yeah, like Phone said, a 'high-mileage' Miata really isn't scary if it's been tended to decently. GoblinBomb fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Mar 17, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2009 21:26
|
|
|
Here's just a run-down of what I had to do with my Miata when I bought it: Timing belt - the one on it was torn to shreds, 60k interval item CAS O-ring - a "problem" area on Miatas, but is widely known and easy to fix Heater hoses - The CAS o-ring will leak oil onto the heater hoses and cause them to swell and piss coolant all over you header, known "problem" Ball joint boots - Better to replace the boots that are leaking grease than to deal with poo poo going south down the road, I had to do it with my previous Miata It's not hard to find a Miata that is up to date and has records, but it's also not too difficult to find a Miata that has none and bring it up to speed for $1-1.5k. It's either you pay for a running, up to date example, or subtract 1-1.5k from the buying price and buy one that needs the work.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2009 21:42
|
|
|
Ugh. Apparently when I last put the accessory belts on the '99, I forgot to torque down the bolt that holds the upper alternator bracket to the front of the engine. It's now long gone. I'm pretty sure it had a 14mm head but I don't know the actual bolt diameter, thread pitch, or length. Does anyone know what size bolt goes in there? I can't seem to find a diagram or part number.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2009 17:33
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Ugh. Apparently when I last put the accessory belts on the '99, I forgot to torque down the bolt that holds the upper alternator bracket to the front of the engine. It's now long gone. I'm pretty sure it had a 14mm head but I don't know the actual bolt diameter, thread pitch, or length. Does anyone know what size bolt goes in there? I can't seem to find a diagram or part number. If you're feeling super OCD, the part number is 99724-1000 (based on http://www.miata.net/garage/90-99Parts/99/MX5%2099%201%20OF%203%20ENGINE.pdf page 1-F8). I'm pretty sure that it's just an M10-1.0 bolt with a length of like 20mm or 30mm, but you can probably pick up a bolt box from autozone and use trial and error without any problem.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2009 17:52
|
|
|
Thanks for the link - the one I'm missing is actually 99796-1020. I don't give a gently caress if the actual bolt I buy is OEM, I just figure I can try and dig up the specs based on that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2009 17:55
|
|
|
My dad has always been talking about how his new MB SL550 has so much power but today I whipped past him in my miata... oh that felt great.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2009 19:22
|
|
|
Phone posted:It's not hard to find a Miata that is up to date and has records, but it's also not too difficult to find a Miata that has none and bring it up to speed for $1-1.5k. It's either you pay for a running, up to date example, or subtract 1-1.5k from the buying price and buy one that needs the work. But the main point is, would this push me into the 4 and 5 thousand dollar "car on the road" price range? Thats over my budget.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2009 23:25
|
|
|
What's your city? Seriously, buying a car within your budget isn't that hard.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2009 23:43
|
|
|
 I've searched around but I can't seem to find anyone else with a rust problem like this. It's like this on both sides. What's the best way to fix this?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 00:13
|
|
|
Phone posted:What's your city? Ft lauderdale florida, bnut anywhere in the sofla area would do... Im sure the sun ruins the softtop.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 00:22
|
|
|
There's a Wheeler Dealers episode where there's some rust on the A-pillar that might help you out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLkMVAE3ZaA&feature=related
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 00:22
|
|
|
MattD1zzl3 posted:Ft lauderdale florida, bnut anywhere in the sofla area would do... Im sure the sun ruins the softtop. $3000 1993 - 167k, seems clean: http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/1079570508.html $2900 1994 - C package, appears OK: http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/1072449313.html $2700 1990 - 90k, No word on maintenance: http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/1071434848.html $3200 1995 - 101k, base model, maintenance should be up to date: http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/1044038303.html
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 00:23
|
|
|
The power antenna on my 95M has started sticking a bit, so I figure I should probably try to clean and lube it. Is there a particular type of lube I should use on it? All I've got on me is WD-40, which I'm a bit hesitant to use as it's not really a lubricant. I don't have any other lube or grease, so I'll have to get something. Any advice?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 01:19
|
|
|
Guinness posted:The power antenna on my 95M has started sticking a bit, so I figure I should probably try to clean and lube it. Is there a particular type of lube I should use on it? All I've got on me is WD-40, which I'm a bit hesitant to use as it's not really a lubricant. I don't have any other lube or grease, so I'll have to get something. Any advice? White lithium grease is the way to go I believe. But I think you should just pull the antenna out and plug the hole. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 03:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 18:24 |
|
|
destructo posted:Spring is here and all is right with the world. I found your other three. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 18:13
|
|