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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks, I've attempted it half a dozen times over the past few years, all with super simple stuff. Then I took a course in 2019 and the formal training was very much worth it. This is my first really complicated piece and first since taking the course. Mind giving a sentence or two run through of the process and anything you wish you knew before you started? Looks really great
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Mar 27, 2020 19:52
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The settling of my 110 year old house means that some of the doors won't latch because the latch and lock mortise is now a few fractions of an inch off. It's too much to just file it a little or wiggle, but not enough to drill new holes and shift it. So I'm going to cut out that whole part of the jamb and glue a new block in and mortise it. Is there a more efficient way to hog out most of that wood than using a mortise chisel?
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Mar 28, 2020 20:44
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Stultus Maximus posted:The settling of my 110 year old house means that some of the doors won't latch because the latch and lock mortise is now a few fractions of an inch off. It's too much to just file it a little or wiggle, but not enough to drill new holes and shift it. So I'm going to cut out that whole part of the jamb and glue a new block in and mortise it. That's pretty drastic, friend. I'm assuming the door hinge side is sagging, not the lock side? Sometimes a judicious 3 1/2" deck screw on the top hinge side can tilt/raise the door enough of a fraction to make it click again. If it's the lock side of the jamb that sags, a screw @~ the bottom hinge will lower the door.
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Mar 28, 2020 21:14
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's pretty drastic, friend. I'm assuming the door hinge side is sagging, not the lock side? Sometimes a judicious 3 1/2" deck screw on the top hinge side can tilt/raise the door enough of a fraction to make it click again. If it's the lock side of the jamb that sags, a screw @~ the bottom hinge will lower the door. It's about 1/8" off.
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Mar 28, 2020 21:20
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Take a dremel to the hole in the strike plate and make it taller. If need be you can pop the strike plate off and chisel out the underlying hole too. I definitely wouldn't go cutting out the jamb unless I was 100% certain there was no less-invasive option.
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Mar 28, 2020 21:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Take a dremel to the hole in the strike plate and make it taller. If need be you can pop the strike plate off and chisel out the underlying hole too. I definitely wouldn't go cutting out the jamb unless I was 100% certain there was no less-invasive option. Yeah, that took five minutes. I have no idea why my first instinct is always "how can I rebuild this entire thing?" but it is.
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Mar 28, 2020 21:54
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I had this exact problem in a house I was thankfully renting and first it was the deck screws, then the grinding the plate away, then it was the wall was full of water and the entire room (comically shoddy permitless addition from the 60s) had to be rebuilt (comically shoddily)
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Mar 28, 2020 22:00
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So, I'd like to build a corner bench that has a built in planter box and a trellis on both sides. Does anyone have any recommendations for any software that would let me design what I want, and tell me what pieces of lumber I need to buy?
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Mar 30, 2020 01:00
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Mind giving a sentence or two run through of the process and anything you wish you knew before you started? Looks really great Sure, I'll take some more pics and do a little tutorial. Stay tuned.
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Mar 30, 2020 02:03
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Quarantine time going well https://imgur.com/gallery/489DRXw
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Mar 30, 2020 04:58
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I've got some basic bedside tables planned for my quarantine period, the next trick will be getting the appropriate tools to my place from my partner's place so I can build them  bobua posted:Quarantine time going well Watcha building?
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Mar 30, 2020 05:38
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bobua posted:Quarantine time going well I must be weird, but I am more interested in the dark wood on the floor and underneath. Walnut?
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Mar 30, 2020 14:20
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McSpergin posted:I've got some basic bedside tables planned for my quarantine period, the next trick will be getting the appropriate tools to my place from my partner's place so I can build them Drawers for a new lathe cabinet  Hasselblad posted:I must be weird, but I am more interested in the dark wood on the floor and underneath. Walnut? yup
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Mar 30, 2020 16:46
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I’ve always been sort of interested in a copy lathe because I do a lot of spindle turning but never had a chance to try one to see if they’re worth the money. An old family friend that does woodworking was clearing some stuff out of his shop and wanted his to go to a good home, so now I guess I have a copy lathe. It’s pretty neat. Not sure it really saves much time vs hand turning, but it definitely lowers the skill level required, and the traveling steady rest could be really handy for long, thin spindles like stair parts that really whip around.  Pre-cutter on the left turns it round so it fits in that big steady rest. The actual knife that does the pattern cut is on the backside of the work.   It’s okay? It definitely doesn’t have the detail or crispness of good hand turning, but I think it will definitely be useful, especially once I actually figure out how to use the dang thing. It cuts with basically a round-nose V chisel and it seems to leave a semi-decent surface finish, though sharpening the cutter would probably help. Who needs a rolling pin? It does cylinders great.
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Apr 1, 2020 20:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Who needs a rolling pin? It does cylinders great. Everyone always needs more rolling pins. Thin ones, short ones, long spindly ones. I only have three and I could honestly use another two that would get regular use. That’s a cool machine. I’d want to think that would make me turn things, but I’m pretty sure I’d need to figure out how to do it in the first place.
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Apr 1, 2020 21:32
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Does anyone have suggestions for hogging off large amounts of material freehand? Reasonably-priced climbing holds are sold out all over the place, and I'm making some of my own out of wood to populate my home climbing wall. The geometric ones are conceptually fairly simple, but I'd appreciate some advice on pulling off shapes like this:  I'd love it if there were non-angle grinder (and non-CNC) ways of doing it, but if are angle grinder attachments that aren't the crazy chainsaw bullshit that nearly defingered James Hamilton I'd be up for those too. I'll be making these mostly from scraps, so a mix of plywood and various hardwoods. Baronash fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Apr 1, 2020 |
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Apr 1, 2020 22:26
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My first thought is to do most of the material with a belt sander clamped down upside-down. Hold the piece in your hand and sand off material to get the shape you want. You might even be able to do the indentation that the easier holds give you by using the leading edge of the belt, where it curves.
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Apr 1, 2020 23:16
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Drill and counter bore your bolt hole, put a bolt through and use that as a handle for the belt sander as described above?
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Apr 1, 2020 23:19
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Baronash posted:Does anyone have suggestions for hogging off large amounts of material freehand? Reasonably-priced climbing holds are sold out all over the place, and I'm making some of my own out of wood to populate my home climbing wall. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-carbide-cup-wheel-66613.html Probably your best bet and cheapest by far. It does leave very rough surface though.
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Apr 1, 2020 23:37
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Baronash posted:Does anyone have suggestions for hogging off large amounts of material freehand? Reasonably-priced climbing holds are sold out all over the place, and I'm making some of my own out of wood to populate my home climbing wall. Otherwise yeah, belt sander with a coarse belt and a good dust mask is probably the best bet. cakesmith handyman's suggestion is a good idea. Holding stuff without a good handle to the belt can go wrong very quickly as the sander slings things across the shop and sands a fingernail or two off (ask me how I know!). A big gouge/chisel with a big mallet can also remove material surprisingly quickly in soft, solid wood, but it's going to be useless on plywood.
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Apr 1, 2020 23:38
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Don't underestimate how quickly you can remove material with a good sharp rasp. With the advantage of less fine sawdust everywhere.
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Apr 2, 2020 00:41
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A saw rasp would probably make quick work of those type of shapes. People use them to rough in guitar necks and other roundish type things all the time.
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Apr 2, 2020 01:01
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I actually have a lot of little scrap pieces of black walnut from some logs I just cut up. I could probably make quite of few of those things.
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Apr 2, 2020 01:10
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Anyone have any tips for finishing ash? I'm working on a desk and wanted a natural finish like an oil but everything just turns it yellow and looks like garbage. Is there a tint I can add or something? Not a huge fan of lacquers and such. I'm not totally opposed to staining it but I'm trying to keep the wood as light as possible. I've seen some finishes where they get the grain darker and the rest lighter but I don't know how they achieve that effect
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Apr 2, 2020 02:28
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Thanks for the advice. I think I can borrow a belt sander to crank some of these out and the weather will be decent enough to get outside and prevent some of the sawdust build up.
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Apr 2, 2020 02:41
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Dolphin posted:Anyone have any tips for finishing ash? I'm working on a desk and wanted a natural finish like an oil but everything just turns it yellow and looks like garbage. Is there a tint I can add or something? Not a huge fan of lacquers and such. I'm not totally opposed to staining it but I'm trying to keep the wood as light as possible. I've seen some finishes where they get the grain darker and the rest lighter but I don't know how they achieve that effect Ash is naturally yellow, so you'll want something with a lot of red in it. There are gel stains, or you can use an oil stain then sand that back with a high grit to get an acceptable color, then topcoat with something clear.
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Apr 2, 2020 04:04
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Dolphin posted:Anyone have any tips for finishing ash? I'm working on a desk and wanted a natural finish like an oil but everything just turns it yellow and looks like garbage. Is there a tint I can add or something? Not a huge fan of lacquers and such. I'm not totally opposed to staining it but I'm trying to keep the wood as light as possible. I've seen some finishes where they get the grain darker and the rest lighter but I don't know how they achieve that effect Getting the grain darker is usually from using a pigment based stain (most minwax/big box store oil stains) because more of the the pigment stays in the grain when you wipe it off. If you really want the grain alot darker, sand lightly after staining like Mambold said. The color won't get sanded off in the grain, leaving it darker than the rest. An oil finish also tends to turn things a little yellow, so that's part of the problem here too. Make some samples and play around with it. A tinted wax after finishing can also help tweak the color and will stay in the grain. E: Strange photoshops of a woodworking classic courtesy of BYOB: Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Apr 2, 2020 |
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Apr 2, 2020 14:25
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Wood bitching (again) A couple months ago I purchased a couple beautiful, no-knot, redwood 2x12x12' boards (from Lowes). I carefully placed them on drying stickers and let them sit. Went to work them yesterday and what should have been 11.25" wide was actually 11" exact. I did what I could without being able to barely shave the sides to the 11" that I actually needed. Chalk it up to being too dumb to measure at the store? Blame on shrinkage? Have a word with Lowes? I am tempted to do the last one, seeing as the boards were over $50/ea. edit: Also realized after the fact that my cross-cut sled reduced the depth max of my 6" dado set, which was 50% of the motivation of the sled build. :feelsbad: So now I am trying to figure out if I want to drop the cash on an 8" set. Thanks, 2020 
Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Apr 2, 2020 |
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Apr 2, 2020 15:46
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Hasselblad posted:Wood bitching (again) That's totally loving normal, so if you want to I.D. yourself as a green (little dadjoke here) noob, by all means call Lowe's and bitch. The best time to obtain wood at its driest in the U.S. anyhow, is in winter. In the U.K. they get crazy rain all during then. I'm kinda astonished you even had redwood available, it's sorta on the endangered/protected list.
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Apr 2, 2020 17:45
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Mr. Mambold posted:I'm kinda astonished you even had redwood available, it's sorta on the endangered/protected list. It's readily available in California, people make fences out of it all the time because it's rot-resistant. I haven't seen 2x material made from it but fenceboards are everywhere. I think it's the Sequoia redwoods specifically that are protected?
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Apr 2, 2020 18:20
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Coast redwood (the redwood that is sold commercially-giant sequoia are bad timber trees with very weak wood)is listed as an endangered species on the IUCN. There are a few hundred thousand acres of privately owned, commercially managed, second and third growth redwood forest, as well as a bunch of old growth in protected state/federal parks and forests. It’s a fast growing tree (and I think on good sites has a growth rate comparable to dougfir or loblolly pine) and should have a secure future as a managed timber tree. I’m more familiar with the IUCN listed longleaf pine in the southeastern US, but it’s a similar situation to redwood. In both cases it has a lot to do with the way the IUCN considers species ‘in the wild’ and looks at current range vs. historical range. There are very few (if any) ‘wild’ old growth Longleaf forests left, but plenty of second growth, managed forests. Do those count as in the wild or not? How wild are the second growth forests of the Southeastern US? It is possible that depending on your definition, longleaf pine is already extinct in the wild or certainly critically endangered, despite there being millions of longleaf trees growing over hundreds of thousands of acres, and more and more landowners planting and managing for longleaf every year. Endangered ‘in the wild’ doesn’t, at least in the US, seem to necessarily translate into ‘no longer commercially viable’
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Apr 2, 2020 19:11
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Is there a guide/chart for how much weight I can safely screw into a wall stud based on screw size, number of screws, etc?
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Apr 2, 2020 20:03
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No idea, but personally my gut feeling is I'd be uncomfortable putting more than, oh, 50 pounds on a single stud, by any method of attachment. Anything more than that should be distributed across multiple studs IMO. You can probably find shear strength ratings for screws of different dimensions somewhere online. Hell, the manufacturer probably knows what they are.
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Apr 2, 2020 20:31
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dupersaurus posted:Is there a guide/chart for how much weight I can safely screw into a wall stud based on screw size, number of screws, etc? Its pretty simple if you're willing to do some math. Find the shear strength of the material of the screw (assuming steel, go with 50,000psi) and multiply that by the minimum cross sectional area of the screw. Thats roughly how much weight the screw can hold (in pure shear). Add screws as necessary. This is all assuming the screws fail before the stud does 
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Apr 2, 2020 20:44
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's totally loving normal, so if you want to I.D. yourself as a green (little dadjoke here) noob, by all means call Lowe's and bitch. The best time to obtain wood at its driest in the U.S. anyhow, is in winter. In the U.K. they get crazy rain all during then. I'm kinda astonished you even had redwood available, it's sorta on the endangered/protected list. So I should not expect my 12" common size to be close to 11.25"? 
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Apr 2, 2020 20:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:No idea, but personally my gut feeling is I'd be uncomfortable putting more than, oh, 50 pounds on a single stud, by any method of attachment. Anything more than that should be distributed across multiple studs IMO. Super Waffle posted:Its pretty simple if you're willing to do some math. Find the shear strength of the material of the screw (assuming steel, go with 50,000psi) and multiply that by the minimum cross sectional area of the screw. Thats roughly how much weight the screw can hold (in pure shear). Add screws as necessary. 50 pounds as a rough estimate covers my needs well enough, and matches what I'm finding googling (though it's hard to get some straight numbers). Is my box of 8x3" wood screws what I want, or should I go thicker?
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Apr 2, 2020 21:02
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dupersaurus posted:50 pounds as a rough estimate covers my needs well enough, and matches what I'm finding googling (though it's hard to get some straight numbers). Is my box of 8x3" wood screws what I want, or should I go thicker? #8 screws are pretty beefy; I wouldn't expect to have trouble with them. But what exactly are you trying to do?
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Apr 2, 2020 21:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:#8 screws are pretty beefy; I wouldn't expect to have trouble with them. But what exactly are you trying to do? Hanging something for ~25 pounds of cats to climb on. The prototype is a box about 7" deep, and only big enough for one stud.
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Apr 2, 2020 21:14
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Yeah, a couple of #8 screws should be fine for that.
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Apr 2, 2020 21:21
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Hasselblad posted:So I should not expect my 12" common size to be close to 11.25"? Never assume anything from dimensional lumber from big box stores. If I am grabbing any kind of wood (even 2x4s and sheet goods) I first go over to the tools section and grab a tape measure. Just don't be a dick, put it back where you got it when you're done.
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Apr 2, 2020 21:36
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