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Hello all. Need a quick review because I am second guessing myself. This is the case I was going to purchase today, Fractal Design Meshify C No Window. But it says in the product name COMPACT MID TOWER. This is different from this case, Fractal Design Meshify C Dark TG, which says ATX Mid Tower. Now I have compared them to the Fractal dimensions, No Window & Dark TG. There seems to be no difference. Is this right or am I missing something by Newegg, and other vendors, calling it a COMPACT MID TOWER? Thanks!
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May 12, 2019 21:11
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boji posted:I'm considering building a beefy NAS and looking for any advice/input from experienced minds. My technical level is pretty good, though certainly has gaps, so I view this as a chance to learn and problem solve. I would most likely run FreeNAS. Freenas recommends 1gb of RAM per TB of storage capacity in your array, so even if you're doing raid 5 or raid 10, you will need to include more RAM. orange juche fucked around with this message at 21:38 on May 12, 2019 |
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May 12, 2019 21:33
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boji posted:I'm considering building a beefy NAS and looking for any advice/input from experienced minds. My technical level is pretty good, though certainly has gaps, so I view this as a chance to learn and problem solve. I would most likely run FreeNAS. I built a similar little setup in a U-NAS 810A chassis. They're a pain in the rear end to build but it's a powerful server crammed into not much space. The i3s have ECC support and relatively high clocks, which makes them a good choice especially compared to a -T SKU (which are clocked very low). I used a 7100 but if you can wait a little longer, the 9300 should be out soon, and that has quad-cores and turbos up to 4.2 GHz. They should be available sometime very soon, Intel has stated they expect their supply shortage to clear up this quarter. Also note that with your setup you'll need a SAS/SATA controller card to run all those drives. Same goes for any Ryzen board, C236 is the only board that supports 8x SATA ports, everything else you will be eating up at least one slot for a controller card. The setup below uses a C236 board, which has 8 onboard SATA ports so all drives (except cache drives) can be run directly, and then it boots from the USB-to-SATA adapter. You do have to flip around the bracket to the inside of the chassis though, otherwise that adapter won't clear the fan. C236 boards are more expensive, but B250 won't support ECC and you need a SAS card anyway, which will eat up some of those savings. The C236 boards are still a bit more expensive but you are getting more functionality integrated and leaving more expansion room, so it's not just wasted money. There's a couple different mobos available that fit the bill, however you do have to make a choice between IPMI ("server" boards) and having sound output ("workstation" boards, you'll need another adapter to go from USB A to USB 2.0/3.0 header). You can still use the iGPU for Plex transcoding or whatever, but the IPMI's BMC drives the video outputs. Link aggregation should work on "server" boards like the LNF4 I selected but you'll also probably need a managed switch that understands how to do that as well. I have not personally tried it. SuperMicro does make a model with 10 gbit, which may be easier than link bonding (you can buy cheaper switches with 1 or 2 10 gbit ports for servers or backbone). If you go down that road you may want to double check Intel X550 is supported in FreeNAS yet. (they even have a version with a SAS controller onboard, so you could run cache drives too without a controller card) Also, shuck some easystores and they become $130 a pop for 8 TB drives. Puts your build at around $2100 when you include an OS drive (I had a spare sitting around). With a "server" board you may want to buy some Noctua low-noise adapters. Servers generally want them running full blast, I didn't really fart around with trying to get IPMI to run them at a more reasonable speed, I just installed the LNAs and let them run at "full speed". CPU: Intel - Core i3-7100 3.9 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($165.00 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L9i 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler ($42.34 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Supermicro - MBD-X11SSH-LN4F Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($235.48 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Crucial - 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($130.36 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial - 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($130.36 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 830 Series 128 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: SeaSonic - 300 W 80+ Gold Certified Flex ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Custom: Rosewill RCUC-16001 USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable ($9.48 @ Amazon) Custom: U-NAS NSC-810A Server Chassis ($219.99) Total: $993.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-12 19:20 EDT-0400 orange juche posted:Freenas recommends 1gb of RAM per TB of storage capacity in your array, so even if you're doing raid 5 or raid 10, you will need to include more RAM. fwiw that rule of thumb is a holdover from the days when you might have like a couple TBs in your array (the returns are diminishing past, say, 4 GB or 8 GB), and aimed more at servers that would be supporting lots of concurrent users. Your VMs eat what they eat, but 16 GB is plenty for the filesystem itself... at least until you start using cache drives. Basically with ZFS everybody goes through the cycle of thinking cache drives sound great but frankly cache drives are not that awesome... due to the way ZFS works, you need a lot of RAM in order to track what is actually in cache, so the basic advice is not to think about cache drives until you've maxed out your RAM, or at least 64 GB or so. ZFS loves RAM, it will intelligently use whatever you throw at it, and the more advanced features chew through RAM pretty heavily, so the first piece of advice anyone will give you is not to think about any other hardware improvements until you've maxed out your RAM. I would strongly recommend not using cache drives until you know you need them. Which you probably don't, for a homelab. Same thing goes for a SLOG... sounds good on paper but you probably don't need it, and it can potentially slow things down if you gently caress around with it without understanding the tradeoffs. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:47 on May 13, 2019 |
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May 13, 2019 00:24
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so, i think i've got my prospective first build figured out (what Stickman suggested for me, pretty much verbatim), with the exception of the monitor, which i'm still picking out. however, this brings me to the fact that I've never purchased computer parts before, so I now have two final questions: 1) Between Amazon and Newegg, which is the better/preferred seller, and 2) Is there any problem/issue with buying 1 part a week, and just sort of amassing the build over time? Or do i need to/should I grab everything in one shot? I'm not making a final decision on the processor until Computex later this month, and i'd like to know if there's any sort of issue or problem with amassing parts week-by-week up to then like an advent calendar. Also, the prospect of spending several hundred dollars in one shot is, to me, harder to stomach than putting out one or two hundred per purchase over multiple weeks.
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May 13, 2019 08:23
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No reason you can't do a bit at a time, just watch guarantee times i guess.
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May 13, 2019 08:25
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Argus Zant posted:so, i think i've got my prospective first build figured out (what Stickman suggested for me, pretty much verbatim), with the exception of the monitor, which i'm still picking out. however, this brings me to the fact that I've never purchased computer parts before, so I now have two final questions: If you have Prime, Amazon is great to order through, most of their poo poo is like 1-3 day shipping, at least where I am. Newegg can be a lil slower, but obviously if you're planning on buying stuff 1 part at a time, that doesn't really matter. I've built 2 PCs in the past 2 years and have used Amazon both times because I was impatient and wanted my poo poo here as quickly as possible. Both are around equal on pricing, Newegg seems to be cheaper occasionally but with shipping Amazon might still be the better deal if you have Prime.
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May 13, 2019 09:22
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Argus Zant posted:so, i think i've got my prospective first build figured out (what Stickman suggested for me, pretty much verbatim), with the exception of the monitor, which i'm still picking out. however, this brings me to the fact that I've never purchased computer parts before, so I now have two final questions: The big issue with buying pieces over time is an inability to check if anything is DoA. If anything is and you're outside the return winow you'd have to go through a warranty process, whereas if you're inside the return window you can usually get it replaced within the week.
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May 13, 2019 13:23
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There's also no point to spreading out your orders, it's not like a CPU is going to benefit you in any way if you only buy the motherboard a week later and the RAM a week after that... If you can't spend the money now, just wait until you would've bought the last component then order everything at once. Hardware prices generally only go down so you can even save some money like that (unless you're super unlucky and some earthquake in Taiwan happens).
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May 13, 2019 13:37
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Fixit posted:Hello all. Need a quick review because I am second guessing myself. I've been looking at these cases too and best I can tell is the C is a compact mid tower while the S2 is a more standard to large mid tower, which may get translated to different categories depending on the vendor.
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May 13, 2019 18:54
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ItBreathes posted:The big issue with buying pieces over time is an inability to check if anything is DoA. If anything is and you're outside the return winow you'd have to go through a warranty process, whereas if you're inside the return window you can usually get it replaced within the week. This is why I made sure all the parts would arrive over the course of just a few days, and only bought parts from two different places. It cost slightly more money, but It's a lot easier on my stress level when any problems can be dealt with quickly and with as few stores as possible. One other reason to buy stuff at the same time is that you can sometimes get combo discounts and promotional bonuses.
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May 13, 2019 20:20
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yeah, all of that makes perfectly reasonable sense for buying it in one shot, two at most. I've just been experiencing intense disillusionment/bad times at work recently and thought stringing it all out/having something to look forwards to every week would help keep me going. though now i need to askItBreathes posted:The big issue with buying pieces over time is an inability to check if anything is DoA. If anything is and you're outside the return winow you'd have to go through a warranty process, whereas if you're inside the return window you can usually get it replaced within the week. how do i know what/if anything is DoA? again, i've never assembled a PC before, so i have no idea what it looks like when or if something is hosed, beyond the extremely basic "the computer isn't working" level- nor how to diagnose which part, exactly, is the problem.
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May 13, 2019 20:41
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Argus Zant posted:how do i know what/if anything is DoA? again, i've never assembled a PC before, so i have no idea what it looks like when or if something is hosed, beyond the extremely basic "the computer isn't working" level- nor how to diagnose which part, exactly, is the problem. If one of your main components is DoA your computer just won't post. If that happens triple check that your ram is seated properly and then it's a matter of swapping out components with known working ones until you find the one that doesn't work, or paying a local computer shop to do the same, as you likely won't have the parts - basic diagnosis is usually in the tens of dollars. Hopefully you won't have to deal with it (and most builds don't), but these are complex, somewhat fragile things, it does happen.
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May 13, 2019 20:57
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Argus Zant posted:how do i know what/if anything is DoA? again, i've never assembled a PC before, so i have no idea what it looks like when or if something is hosed, beyond the extremely basic "the computer isn't working" level- nor how to diagnose which part, exactly, is the problem. You'd just know because of the issues you'd be having with the pc. It's nothing to be anxious about, it's very rare and return policies these days are very easy to get through.
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May 13, 2019 20:58
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I've got a 780ti that a buddy gave me a while back that is now (I think) dying. Like games will just freeze up and crash with a load of d3d errors, then windows will freeze up everyone 5 seconds until I restart the computer. Running the thing at like 90% power from MSI Afterburner seems to help a bit, but still seemingly randomly turns off. So I dunno, guess it's on its way out? I'm a bit out of the loop gfx card wise so not sure what to get! I'd like something not worse than a 780ti. What country are you in?  What are you using the system for? Gams What's your budget? ~$300 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Turd dual monitors, 1680 x 1050 60hz. Would like to run poo poo on highest with 60 fps. I *would* like to run BF5 on ultra, since that's the only game I've got that doesn't run great. I guess the Witcher 3 as well? Most stuff runs just fine with what I've got aside from the "LOL computer off" stuff. Was looking at the RX 580, but it seems kinda poo poo compared to even the lowest Nvidia models like the 2060.
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May 13, 2019 23:28
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Used/refurb Vega 56 or 1070 for ~$230, or used/refurb Vega 64 or 1080 for $320-340 would be the recommendations in that price range. If you care about noise, try to avoid a blower card, look for one with 2-3 fans on it. A 1070 is probably more than sufficient for 1080p60 even at max settings. The 1080 should be able to hold 60 fps at 1440p max settings, or pretty close, or will last you a long time at 1080p. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:12 on May 14, 2019 |
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May 13, 2019 23:50
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Hey thread, I have a relatively minor issue I could use some help with. So I have (had?) a PC out in my living room for multimedia / streaming, but unfortunately I had an rear end in a top hat Roommate who hosed with the CPU on it right before they moved out. Some time after they left, I found the heatsink / CPU unattached from the motherboard, with multiple pins on the CPU bent. I think what happened was after they removed the CPU (for whatever goddamn reason), they tried to reattach it and bent several pins in the process, and then just left it there for me to find. I'm wondering if the CPU is salvageable, or what replacement I should get for it. Fortunately this was my 'secondary' PC, so I'm not too concerned with performance as I am with just having a working PC that I can stream from. The PC was an old HP pre-built (at least several years old, the CPU says 2009 on it), and the CPU was an AMD Athlon II ADX640. The bent pins are located all over the chip, and I'm not sure if I could even fix them all without breaking some off (if the chip even still works). Is it worth it to try to fix it? Or what would be a good replacement?
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May 13, 2019 23:51
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You can fix PGA pins with a mechanical pencil or a razor blade. A lot of the pins are redundant so one or two breaking off might not kill the whole chip, it might do nothing (redundant power/ground pins) or just kill a RAM or PCIe channel, but obviously try to avoid that. You can find a replacement on ebay for like $15 if you want to keep the system going. If you want to replace it with something newer, grab a NUC7CJYH from B+H for $130. You'll need a couple sticks of DDR4 SODIMM RAM (probably ~$50) and a SSD ($30) plus a windows 10 key off ebay ($2). They make great TV PCs and are probably even a bit faster than that old Athlon, while pulling way less power. Due to Intel's manufacturing shortages they're back-ordered but B+H got mine within maybe 2-3 weeks. (there is also a quad-core version if you want, but 2 cores is plenty for a TV PC since you will be doing everything on the GPU.) Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:06 on May 14, 2019 |
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May 13, 2019 23:56
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Can i get a little input before I potentially go tomorrow to get all these parts. What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming primarily, media consumption while I sit there in between gaming sessions. Internet browsing. What's your budget? $1300 soft budget. Will be getting a monitor plus some periphs on top of that but the $1300 is for the PC itself. It's a soft budget. I'll spend more if I really "need" to. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Currently have an old 1080p 60hz that will be moved to the 2nd monitor and will get a 1080p 144hz tomorrow. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Walmart) Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($6.30 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - B450 GAMING-ITX/AC Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($124.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($109.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($369.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design - Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($73.35 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1074.47 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-13 18:56 EDT-0400 Main thing I'm struggling with is the standard CPU/GPU combo. I've gone back and forth all the way from 1600/1660ti to 2600x/2060 to 2600x/2070 and can't decide. Main reason for indecision is the wait to see what is announced for Ryzen soon and then potential down the road Nvidia GPU upgrades. I've thought about going cheaper now to make it an easier pill to swallow if I get the new Ryzen, but then if the new Ryzen doesn't seem that great for the price and I decide to not get it I may have wished I got the 2600x. Thoughts for standard 1080p 144hz gaming? (The CPU/motherboard is about $30 cheaper then listed. Getting a microcenter bundle).
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May 13, 2019 23:59
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Zen2 is 14 days away from launch, do you really need this literally right now? In two weeks you will know parts and prices and the 2000 series will probably be on even deeper clearance. Might be another 2 weeks past that until parts ship but still, one month from the new product. If you must buy something literally right now then get the 1600 and sell it after you upgrade. (also, for 144 Hz gaming wait for Zen2 for sure)
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May 14, 2019 00:10
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Hi guys, I'm looking for mATX/mITX stuff for a build for a family member's birthday. SA-Mart thread is here. Looking for components or completed (older) builds. Cheers.
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May 14, 2019 00:21
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Thanks for this. I think I was able to get the pins straightened out and the chip seated correctly. This brings me to the next issue: how can I tell if the CPU is mounted correctly? The mobo / CPU doesn't seem to have a retaining bracket, and the heatsink seems to be the de facto retaining bracket. Is this normal? The next step is to apply some thermal paste and mount the heatsink, correct?
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May 14, 2019 00:44
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Paul MaudDib posted:Zen2 is 14 days away from launch, do you really need this literally right now? In two weeks you will know parts and prices and the 2000 series will probably be on even deeper clearance. Might be another 2 weeks past that until parts ship but still, one month from the new product. I knew the announcement was real soon but I assumed it would be a few months till the actual release. Hm.
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May 14, 2019 00:49
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Search for AM3 mounting instructions. I think it may be like the old Socket A where you slide the clip over both nubs with a flathead screwdriver? That’s a common system. And yeah ZIF sockets don’t have retaining brackets, and yeah you’ll need some thermal paste.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:03 on May 14, 2019 |
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May 14, 2019 00:52
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Paul MaudDib posted:Search for AM3 mounting instructions. I think it may be like the old Socket A where you slide the clip over both nubs with a flathead screwdriver? That’s a common system. And yeah ZIF sockets don’t have retaining brackets, and yeah you’ll need some thermal paste. OK, I found some mounting instructions. Now I'm off to buy some thermal paste.
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May 14, 2019 01:10
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Oh, um. One thing, you have to match the arrow on the cpu to the arrow printed on the socket or board. Make sure you did that.
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May 14, 2019 01:31
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My dad finally needs a new desktop computer for his home office. Sooner is better than later. So pre-built is what I"m looking at. Dell outlet's still a good place to get something right? It's for appraisal software that runs on windows. Nothing super intense. We do use it as the server so the other computer in the office can work off it though. I'd like it to have an SSD and another HD for storing photos. 16 gig ram. Don't really have any other requirements. How about this? Inspiron 5680 Desktop Tech Specs Intel Core 8th Generation i7-8700 Processor (6 Core,Up to 4.60GHz,12MB Cache,65W) Windows 10 Home 64bit English 128GB M.2 SATA3 Class 20 Solid State Drive 2TB 3.5inch SATA Hard Drive (7200 RPM) 16GB (2x8GB) 2400MHz DDR4 UDIMM Non-ECC NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB GDDR5 Dell Outlet Inspiron 5680 Desktop Original Price$1,250.00 Total Savings$187.00 Standard ShippingFREE Outlet Price$1,063.00 Just get that one? Or is there somewhere else I should be shopping too? Thanks.
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May 14, 2019 03:15
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Paul MaudDib posted:I built a similar little setup in a U-NAS 810A chassis. They're a pain in the rear end to build but it's a powerful server crammed into not much space. The i3s have ECC support and relatively high clocks, which makes them a good choice especially compared to a -T SKU (which are clocked very low). I used a 7100 but if you can wait a little longer, the 9300 should be out soon, and that has quad-cores and turbos up to 4.2 GHz. They should be available sometime very soon, Intel has stated they expect their supply shortage to clear up this quarter. Thanks for the info/feedback! I did see those 9300 chips and it looked like a great balance of compute with low TDP, something like 35W. I counted on a dedicated controller card, pcpartpicker didn't want to add the component even in the manual field. The prices look all over the place, though. For the motherboard with 8 onboard ports, does that still have the same controller type device that makes it more of a hardware than software defined array? (Starting to hit my knowledge limits here) I just don't want to introduce unnecessary load on the CPU. Also for the motherboard versus dedicated card solution - is there any difference in reliability/integrity for the array? For the disks themselves, I'd seen that shucking idea before.. but I thought reliability-wise the NAS drives go the distance to pay for themselves in the long run. Your point about caching is probably right, it just sounds cool to say my home NAS has SSD caching. boji fucked around with this message at 06:33 on May 14, 2019 |
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May 14, 2019 06:30
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Hdip posted:My dad finally needs a new desktop computer for his home office. Sooner is better than later. So pre-built is what I"m looking at. Dell outlet's still a good place to get something right? It's for appraisal software that runs on windows. Nothing super intense. We do use it as the server so the other computer in the office can work off it though. I'd like it to have an SSD and another HD for storing photos. 16 gig ram. Don't really have any other requirements. The processor and graphics card seem massive overkill
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May 14, 2019 06:58
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boji posted:Thanks for the info/feedback! One note here is that it doesn't look like Supermicro has BIOSs out for the 9000-series yet on their C246 boards. I emailed support and they said "later this year". No 10 Gbit models planned, drat. OK, so, quick terminology rundown here. SATA is a connector and a protocol. SAS is a different, more advanced protocol that runs over SATA connections. You can plug SATA drives into SAS controllers but not the other way around. RAID is a configuration of drives, you can either run it on a dedicated hardware controller or software emulation. If you use a hardware controller, the OS just sees a single logical device and the RAID controller handles all the stuff behind the scenes. The opposite of this is "IT mode" (individual termination) or "JBOD mode" ("just a bunch of disks"). Most RAID controllers can either present a JBOD or can be firmware flashed so that they are running in IT mode permanently. These days it is actually more desirable (IMO) to use soft-raid unless you have a very good reason. The amount of CPU overhead is negligible, and you get certain guarantees about how the array will respond in case of drive failure/etc, because the open-source community is writing the software and has picked sane behavior instead of you having to rely on the decisions of some random company that wrote the firmware. The most common way to do soft-raid is through mdadm RAID or ZFS raidz configurations. ZFS has a bunch of really cool features but requires you to plan in advance - you can add more raidzs if you want, but you cannot add drives to an existing raidz, so you probably want to buy in chunks of 4 or 8 drives at a time. In practice if you are running ZFS the integrity is probably higher than a hardware solution, ZFS is extremely paranoid about data integrity. If you don't want to buy multiple drives at once, go with mdadm, which is Linux's soft-raid solution. One to avoid at all costs is btrfs - it's just not ready for primetime yet, RAID configurations die routinely. Give it another decade to work out the bugs. There is no practical difference between onboard SATA from the PCH and a separate controller, really, as long as you are doing soft-raid. Potentially onboard is even more reliable since you don't have the potential for data to get stuck in cache on the card but not flushed out yet, which could cause data inconsistency in a power failure. Obviously if the drives are not plugged into a hardware card, you cannot put them into part of a hardware-managed RAID array though. It is hard to find boards with 8+ onboard ports though - only C236 and C246 support 8 SATA ports and then you need to boot from a USB-to-SATA adapter or NVMe drive. A very few boards do have onboard SAS controllers, it's just like having a card built into the board, and in that case you can get up to 16 ports. There's really nothing wrong with a hardware card either though, it just eats a slot and costs extra money, but the high-end boards with 8+ SATA ports also cost you money. If you do want to go with a standalone card, you want the IBM M1015 card and you can flash it to IT mode. These cards use mini-SAS ports that combine 4 SAS connections into a single port, so you'll also need a pair of SFF-8087 breakout cables. The drives in the Easystore models I listed will either be WD Red NAS drives or HGST Helium enterprise drives, both of which are very reliable. You get a shorter warranty, but mostly drives are going to fail right away or 5 years down the road when they're out of warranty, there aren't many cases where a 3 year warranty would have saved you but a 1 year warranty wouldn't. I am still running some WD Reds from 2012 in a secondary pool I have. That's a bit of a brain dump so let me know if that doesn't make sense or if you have more questions.
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May 14, 2019 07:24
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sebmojo posted:The processor and graphics card seem massive overkill OK, so more like this for half the price? Tech Specs Intel Core 8th Generation i5-8400 Processor (6 Core,Up to 4.0GHz,9MB Cache, 65W) Windows 10 Home 64bit English 128GB PCIe M.2 NVMe Class 35 Solid State Drive 1TB 3.5inch SATA Hard Drive (7200 RPM) 12GB DDR4 2666MHz Memory 8X Ultra Slim DVD+/-RW Drive Integrated Video Card Dell Outlet Inspiron 3670 Desktop Original Price$651.00 Total Savings$117.00 Standard ShippingFREE Outlet Price$534.00
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May 14, 2019 07:45
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Yeah i reckon, that's still a solid piece of kit
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May 14, 2019 08:05
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You wont really be able to fit anything beyond Windows on that M.2 but the 1TB drive will work for the rest of it. And honestly having the OS on the SSD is probably the best improvement you can make to a system.
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May 14, 2019 08:10
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Paying OEM rates to upgrade to a larger drive is probably not a productive use of money though. I'm guessing it'll probably be something stupid like $120 extra to upgrade to a 256GB drive when you could literally go out and buy a 1 TB EX920 (which is a 970 evo tier drive) for the same money. tbh if you're handy, I'd just buy whatever's cheapest (even a hdd) and then use macrium reflect to clone it to a new drive that you add in yourself. It's about as difficult as adding a new stick of RAM or whatever.
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May 14, 2019 08:29
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I'm looking for a new computer case and I'm absolute sick of looking at any more of them, as they are all just absolutely dire apparently. Save me, thread! Requirements: -it should be some sort of nominally simple rectangular black shape that menaces with obsidian -no hideous TRVE GAMER design elements such as unsightly lumps or garish colors (exception: RGB fans are allowed, because I can and will just tear that poo poo right out of the chassis) -no vents, ports, buttons, etc. on the top -good airflow -room for an ATX mobo, as well as CPU cooling and graphics card that are a bit on the large side
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May 14, 2019 14:21
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Fractal Design Define R6 or S2 is the usual Goon approved choice. I like the new Phanteks Eclipse p600s. All of them can be bought either with tempered glass sides or silence focused ones. You can find smaller ones, but I like my cases on a bigger side.
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May 14, 2019 14:41
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Tunahead posted:-no vents, ports, buttons, etc. on the top alex314 posted:Fractal Design Define R6
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May 14, 2019 14:49
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Missed that one  That limits the options a lot.
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May 14, 2019 14:55
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Check out the Corsair Carbide and Obsidian series, they appear to have several featureless black monoliths with front ports.
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May 14, 2019 17:05
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I think the Corsair Carbide Air 540 is your best bet, or the 740. The latter looks a lot different, loses the 3.5" bays in exchange for ???, but you can get intake from the bottom. They're both really wide though, and I think the PSU intakes don't have filters out of the box. I don't think it's possible to get a case without a top vent. It would help to know how good the airflow needs to be; average, or better than average?
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May 14, 2019 18:45
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| # ? Jun 18, 2024 01:42 |
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Tunahead posted:I'm looking for a new computer case and I'm absolute sick of looking at any more of them, as they are all just absolutely dire apparently. Save me, thread! Do you mean no vents just in the top front section? Or do you mean no vents on the top all together? That will be a hard criteria to meet. If you get by with vents on the top back of the case the Cooler Master N400 would be a good case. I currently have the N200 (micro) and it gets the job done with nothing fancy going on. I will say, I am planning on getting the Fractal Meshify C. Good looking case, fantastic airflow. But it has buttons on the top, otherwise I'd recommend that one. Fixit fucked around with this message at 20:13 on May 14, 2019 |
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May 14, 2019 20:10
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