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berzerkmonkey posted:And what, pray tell, would this technique be? I am curious... You tie a rope to your chair and rig a pulley system so that every time you get up it dumps some of it on you.
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Feb 21, 2013 15:42
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Fearless posted:I've been working on this for the past little while: Batchre style subtle highlights and subdued yet popping color pallet. Nice. serious gaylord posted:*Problems with selling sculpts* A solution might be to test the consumer's elasticity. If there are really that many people who are buying a mini it might be because the mini is so inexpensive that it's worth it for too many goons. If he raises prices he may still have an overall profit gain even taking the falloff of orders into account. And if he still has lots of orders then he's rich! 
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Feb 21, 2013 16:25
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will blow your mind.
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!amicable posted:I haven't really finished much in a few months, but here's what's kicking around my desk. Almost everything needs more detailing and clean up. And the photos are poo poo.
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Feb 21, 2013 16:34
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!amicable posted:I haven't really finished much in a few months, but here's what's kicking around my desk. Almost everything needs more detailing and clean up. And the photos are poo poo. I want to hate them because I typically prefer a muted color pallet, but I just can't; these are pretty cool.
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Feb 21, 2013 17:01
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Babe Magnet posted:You tie a rope to your chair and rig a pulley system so that every time you get up it dumps some of it on you. That's only half of it.  I found that when it's cold the freshly mixed putty is hard and not sticky so I heated it up a bit on the side of a cup of tea (it left a residue). It seemed that hot temperature causes the Green Stuff to flow more freely, become more sticky, have less surface tension as well as cure faster. What I've done the last couple of sessions is have a cup of hot water to dip my tools in when I need to blend the edges between two masses of putty. Afterwards I just smooth the surface out and I don't have to toil away for ages on disappearing the seam lines. Also, it's conceivable that once you want your putty to set you can dunk it in a cup of hot water and it'll serve the same purpose as one of those lamp oven things. Might have adverse effects I'm not aware of but it's quite nice so far.
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Feb 21, 2013 17:17
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Model pic dump! pMorghoul.  Titan Gladiator.  Titan Sentry.  Cyclops Savage.
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Feb 21, 2013 17:25
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Let's all talk about this guy.
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Feb 21, 2013 17:27
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ghetto wormhole posted:Let's all talk about this guy. Alien FaceCrotch based with cheese? Seriously though, those are crazy cool. And those bright chaosy...things too. I've really been slacking since the start of the year, I blame it on moving around all my 'studio' stuff to make room for a spray booth and have a proper airbrushing setup. Tonight, though, I'll be trying out my Renegade Krome for the first time
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Feb 21, 2013 17:31
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Cross-posting some kitbashed Arco-Flagellants. I hate the official models.    
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Feb 21, 2013 17:51
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serious gaylord posted:Your friends (or us on here) see your awesome models and ask you to make some for us. That was pre-Kickstarter. Now people who are good at sculpting and find themselves stuck casting for others can throw their work up on Kickstarter and pull in thousands of dollars. That's precisely why the guy from Trollforged did a Kickstarter - he was sick of casting other peoples' sculpts. Anyone that has good greens to show off, a bit of marketing talent, and common sense can pull in quite a bit of cash for a miniatures line on Kickstarter.
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Feb 21, 2013 18:20
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Achmed Jones posted:That was pre-Kickstarter. Now people who are good at sculpting and find themselves stuck casting for others can throw their work up on Kickstarter and pull in thousands of dollars. That's precisely why the guy from Trollforged did a Kickstarter - he was sick of casting other peoples' sculpts. Anyone that has good greens to show off, a bit of marketing talent, and common sense can pull in quite a bit of cash for a miniatures line on Kickstarter. Good! Now all I need is several good looking greens, marketing talent and common sense. 
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Feb 21, 2013 18:34
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Hellbeard posted:Good! Now all I need is several good looking greens, marketing talent and common sense. Man, your sculpts are rad. The only potential worry I see is that from what I've seen, you do historical military stuff and I'm not sure how big the market is for that. SciFi and (especially) fantasy minis sell really well, but I have no clue about army mans. You can do it! 
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Feb 21, 2013 18:43
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Done a little bit of painting the last two days, some red box minis (the knight with the mace I did and posted earlier). Great sculpts. The zombies may need a little work, I did them super fast. Haven't figured out ow I'm going to base them either.    
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Feb 21, 2013 19:09
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Man, those zombies do look nice. Cross-posting from the Warmathread, just finished Wishnailer here and I was fairly happy with how he turned out.  
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Feb 21, 2013 19:46
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TastyAvocado posted:Done a little bit of painting the last two days, some red box minis (the knight with the mace I did and posted earlier). Great sculpts. The zombies may need a little work, I did them super fast. Haven't figured out ow I'm going to base them either. These dudes look so loving tough. Your painting suits them heaps. Go with a northern wasteland style base. Sand the bases, dark grey base with a really watered down wash of scorched earth. Dry brush up through greys to a slightly off white. Add some slushy snow (gloss varnish mixed with some woodland scenic snow effect)
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Feb 21, 2013 20:15
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Snow is actually a great idea, I've never done it before and I'll have to order the stuff but it fits the fur cloaks perfectly. I'll give it a shot, thanks.
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Feb 21, 2013 20:17
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I'm assembling a Studio McVey mini and jesus christ dude. It's probably the best sculpting/casting and the worst material to work with. Everything is super super brittle, just removing stuff from sprues snapped some pieces, and the pistol was so fragile it fell apart just by touching it basically.
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Feb 22, 2013 01:42
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I'm looking to sell off all of my Warmachine/Hordes models and some other random hobby stuff (moving and changing factions at the same time). I figured I'd do SA mart first, then bartertown/ebay. What's the best way to handle shipping? A flat $5, or should I charge by weight or what? I just don't want to wind up losing money by shipping metal mans. I haven't done this before. (obviously)
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Feb 22, 2013 03:27
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Aranan posted:I'm looking to sell off all of my Warmachine/Hordes models and some other random hobby stuff (moving and changing factions at the same time). I figured I'd do SA mart first, then bartertown/ebay. What's the best way to handle shipping? A flat $5, or should I charge by weight or what? I just don't want to wind up losing money by shipping metal mans. I haven't done this before. (obviously) If you are US-based, the USPS offers flat-rate shipping boxes of a couple of sizes - the smallest should fit anything but the largest purchase. That way you also know beforehand how much it costs to ship them, I believe it's about $7?
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Feb 22, 2013 03:34
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So I'm working on my imperial fists and like the results so far however I want to try and do some of them in brighter colors but with highlights in crevasses in the armor, I've tried some washes I had but they seem to go out side the crevasses. and I basically end up doing the entire model in wash since its the only way I can deal with going out side the edges. Does anyone have any suggestions about what might be a good way to get the result I want? I was thinking of finding a ink like product or should I try a finer brush?
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Feb 22, 2013 03:36
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Zhent posted:If you are US-based, the USPS offers flat-rate shipping boxes of a couple of sizes - the smallest should fit anything but the largest purchase. That way you also know beforehand how much it costs to ship them, I believe it's about $7? Whoops, yeah I'm US based. Looking at the USPS website, it seems like the flat rates run between $5.80 and $12.35 for anything I'd be shipping.
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Feb 22, 2013 03:48
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Aranan posted:Whoops, yeah I'm US based. The medium size (the 12.80 one) holds a LOT of stuff. I shipped a 40k Battleforce box in one.
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Feb 22, 2013 03:59
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So I'm working on my imperial fists and like the results so far however I want to try and do some of them in brighter colors but with highlights in crevasses in the armor, I've tried some washes I had but they seem to go out side the crevasses. and I basically end up doing the entire model in wash since its the only way I can deal with going out side the edges. Does anyone have any suggestions about what might be a good way to get the result I want? I was thinking of finding a ink like product or should I try a finer brush? Looks like you are using a black or dark brown wash. Either are way too dark for your yellow. Maybe try multiple coats of watered down wash in the cracks with a thin brush?
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Feb 22, 2013 05:29
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So I'm working on my imperial fists and like the results so far however I want to try and do some of them in brighter colors but with highlights in crevasses in the armor, I've tried some washes I had but they seem to go out side the crevasses. and I basically end up doing the entire model in wash since its the only way I can deal with going out side the edges. Does anyone have any suggestions about what might be a good way to get the result I want? I was thinking of finding a ink like product or should I try a finer brush? Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you're saying is the problem, but it may be that you just have to do some touch-up work with the yellow. I would be incredibly impressed if you could lay down wash in the crevices on a space marine without getting any at all on the armor plates.
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Feb 22, 2013 05:38
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Achmed Jones posted:Man, your sculpts are rad. The only potential worry I see is that from what I've seen, you do historical military stuff and I'm not sure how big the market is for that. SciFi and (especially) fantasy minis sell really well, but I have no clue about army mans. You can do it! Thanks! I've recently made a slight thematic shift into science fiction. Here's our dudes all finished: 1:35 planetFaller - a planetary orbital cavalry infantryman.    1:52 cyberpunk character   
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Feb 22, 2013 07:59
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So I'm working on my imperial fists and like the results so far however I want to try and do some of them in brighter colors but with highlights in crevasses in the armor, I've tried some washes I had but they seem to go out side the crevasses. and I basically end up doing the entire model in wash since its the only way I can deal with going out side the edges. Does anyone have any suggestions about what might be a good way to get the result I want? I was thinking of finding a ink like product or should I try a finer brush? Go and get some Cassandora yellow from GW. Its brilliant for Imp Fists.
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Feb 22, 2013 08:03
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Hellbeard posted:Thanks! I've recently made a slight thematic shift into science fiction. Looking great! I like the SMG on that planetFall guy, reminds me of the KRISS Vector
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Feb 22, 2013 08:32
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So I'm working on my imperial fists and like the results so far however I want to try and do some of them in brighter colors but with highlights in crevasses in the armor, I've tried some washes I had but they seem to go out side the crevasses. and I basically end up doing the entire model in wash since its the only way I can deal with going out side the edges. Does anyone have any suggestions about what might be a good way to get the result I want? I was thinking of finding a ink like product or should I try a finer brush? Well your big problem is that you're using the wrong wash. You need a light brown or sepia to do yellow highlighting. I'd recommend Army Painter Quickshade Soft, because its bloody brilliant at doing yellows. The so called "army painter technique" that they pimp in this guide is actually super duper great for doing Imperial Fists. Basically you do what you have to do with any ink or wash, you apply the base coats then dip it in the wash and then reapply the base coat to some of the larger areas. If you don't want to spring for Army Painter you can also use Minwax Polyshades, probably in Pecan or Mission Oak. Regardless of what you use you should blast them down with a coat of Matte Varnish.
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Feb 22, 2013 08:38
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Signal posted:Looking great! Thanks! It was inspired by the KRISS Vector and the XM29 (OICW).
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Feb 22, 2013 08:42
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Achmed Jones posted:Man, your sculpts are rad. The only potential worry I see is that from what I've seen, you do historical military stuff and I'm not sure how big the market is for that. Er its big. Historical wargaming is huge.
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Feb 22, 2013 08:44
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TastyAvocado posted:Done a little bit of painting the last two days, some red box minis (the knight with the mace I did and posted earlier). Great sculpts. The zombies may need a little work, I did them super fast. Haven't figured out ow I'm going to base them either. This is a great paint job on an awesome set of minis. You really brought out their character.
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Feb 22, 2013 08:55
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So I'm working on my imperial fists and like the results so far however I want to try and do some of them in brighter colors but with highlights in crevasses in the armor, I've tried some washes I had but they seem to go out side the crevasses. and I basically end up doing the entire model in wash since its the only way I can deal with going out side the edges. Does anyone have any suggestions about what might be a good way to get the result I want? I was thinking of finding a ink like product or should I try a finer brush? When you say "bright colours but with highlights in crevasses", do you mean shading recesses manually, to avoid a full wash of the armour? It is possible, and you shouldn't need a tiny brush, but I wouldn't recommend it if you're painting a large number of models, as it takes forever. On the plus side, you don't have to correct wash pooling! I posted these guys (a fun little ebay salvage project) a while back:  The yellow is lined with watered-down VGC beasty brown: brushing it around joints and letting it flow into the little panel details. A carefully applied sepia wash would look much the same...actually it would probably look a lot better, I went a bit overboard with the thinning.
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Feb 22, 2013 11:14
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Crossposted from the Warmahordes thread: Finished my gunmages today, pretty happy with how they turned out! 
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Feb 22, 2013 16:30
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Meet WIRE MOTHER and PUP2:  The Berlin Brigade thing is a huge pain in the rear end but it looks alright. I'm trying to do dust roostertail-type deals after the little ones but my wife says it looks like there's "goop" coming off the back. Seems ok to me..
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Feb 22, 2013 21:59
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Dear lord, how do I keep my base ballast from being pulled up and sticking to my brush when I'm trying to paint on the covering/sealing layer of glue?
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Feb 22, 2013 22:47
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Let it dry before painting on the sealing layer?
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Feb 22, 2013 22:50
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SERPUS posted:Dear lord, how do I keep my base ballast from being pulled up and sticking to my brush when I'm trying to paint on the covering/sealing layer of glue? It shouldn't do that if you have glued it down first. It goes: put glue down add ballast, wait for glue to dry, shake off excess ballast, add glue to seal, wait to dry, paint.
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Feb 22, 2013 22:51
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I know this is kind of a longshot, but what's the best Vallejo ultra opaque to match the old Khemri Brown? I have Heavy Khaki, which I think is the closest but it's really hard to tell between the bottles and the paint swatches sometimes.
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Feb 23, 2013 00:02
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Devlan Mud posted:I know this is kind of a longshot, but what's the best Vallejo ultra opaque to match the old Khemri Brown? I have Heavy Khaki, which I think is the closest but it's really hard to tell between the bottles and the paint swatches sometimes. According to their equivalency .pdf, it's "Extra Opaque Heavy Brown". Unfortunately I don't have a pot of Khemri, or I'd do a quick comparison of paint splodges to check. If it helps, standard VGC Khaki is fairly close to Heavy Brown, but a teensy bit lighter.
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Feb 23, 2013 00:19
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Paper Mac posted:Meet WIRE MOTHER and PUP2: Wire Mother is an awesome name.
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Feb 23, 2013 00:52
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