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VogeGandire posted:40k proportions are notoriously odd, because they use a thing called "heroic scale". Basically, it's to make the silhouette more recognizable, and so you can tell what something is at a glance.
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Feb 24, 2013 00:01
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Some stuff just looks better exaggerated as well. But I tend to be willing to overlook things like how all my Khador soldiers weapons fire 200 caliber bullets.
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Feb 24, 2013 00:16
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http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Br...=sotar+airbrush I missed out on this deal the last time it was around, so I am really excited to find this! E; can someone who knows about airbrushes share if it is secretly garbage and/or I should buy other tips or accessories for it?
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Feb 24, 2013 00:28
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It's already out of stock!
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Feb 24, 2013 00:48
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Other goons have reported that the discounted price is still honored when it gets back into stock. It's a really high end brush for illustrators, so it's more than enough for wargaming painters. It comes with a fine needle so it's not great for basing but with a medium needle it'll be fine for that. I've got the Renegade Krome, which has all the features and more of the Sotar but costs more than that special price. It also has a larger paint cup and coatings on the needle and trigger, and both a medium and fine needle. I'm getting used to it as my first real airbrush (I've used an Aztek 470 up to now) but from the reviews and comparisons I've seen it's arguably better than the Sotar. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Feb 24, 2013 |
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Feb 24, 2013 01:02
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When using oil washes either it's not thin enough and doesn't flow at all, or it's so thin the only thing left is a grainy line and in some patches looks like I haven't done it at all. I'm using winsor and newton oil paints. Any ideas?
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Feb 24, 2013 01:21
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Lethemonster posted:When using oil washes either it's not thin enough and doesn't flow at all, or it's so thin the only thing left is a grainy line and in some patches looks like I haven't done it at all. I'm using winsor and newton oil paints. Any ideas? Are you putting gloss varnish on before the oil wash?
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Feb 24, 2013 01:22
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Finished a bunch of Confrontation Orcs for the Oath thread.                
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Feb 24, 2013 05:24
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I've long since stopped actually being startled by Bachtere posts and now only sit here  ing at my computer.
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Feb 24, 2013 05:30
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I usually say "godammit Bachtere" at my monitor.
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Feb 24, 2013 05:35
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Bachtere posted:Finished a bunch of Confrontation Orcs for the Oath thread.
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Feb 24, 2013 05:37
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Holy crap dude. Stunning.
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Feb 24, 2013 05:41
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You really need to crosspost the little bit of lore about that blue sword as well, that was my favorite part. 
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Feb 24, 2013 05:42
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The Happy Accident: In one of Grakkha's thirty seven quests on his path towards ultimate power, he was to climb the super tall H'mmounth Mountain and slay the ice dragon which lived at it's peak. When he got up there, Grakkha discovered the dragon had died of old age. In a fit of rage, he slammed his sword into the dragon's now dead heart. To his surprise, when he removed the sword, it had turned ice blue, and was imbued the essence of the dragon's power. Also, this was my first time using cork on my bases. Turned out pretty good, in the future I'll have less overhang. This guy is kick rear end and has a lot of cool tutorials: http://wappellious.blogspot.com/
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Feb 24, 2013 05:54
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Dear Bachtere, Do you like me? I like you. Your painting is cool and awesome. Please keep being a really really really good painter. Love, Silhouette XOXOXO PS - Your palette choices are very nice. I like the colors you use when you paint things.
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Feb 24, 2013 06:46
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Dominion posted:I usually say "godammit Bachtere" at my monitor. I usually go with fuckdamnit. But yeah, these rock, never stop. I particularly like the muted palette with the occasional counterpoints of really saturated colour on these - the sword, the flames, the crow's beak, the wine bottle, the sausages - they really make the whole thing pop.
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Feb 24, 2013 10:58
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FINALLY got a group of 3 mans done for the first time in 10 years. Took way to long, but I'm pretty happy with them:
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Feb 24, 2013 11:45
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Are you saying that if I stab you with a brush, I may gain your powers? 
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Feb 24, 2013 12:31
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Has anyone else had problems with Forgeworld transfers? I just had some almost gently caress up my Vendetta beyond repair. They didn't seem to stick after drying, and just kind of bubbled up all over. I tried some microsol to offset it, but it just went crinkly all over and I had to remove them again.
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Feb 24, 2013 13:02
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Does anyone have any experience sending high density paints through an airbrush? I have a bunch of Reaper HD stuff I use to base with and I'm wondering if I need to buy new paint.
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Feb 24, 2013 13:51
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signalnoise posted:Does anyone have any experience sending high density paints through an airbrush? I have a bunch of Reaper HD stuff I use to base with and I'm wondering if I need to buy new paint. I haven't encountered any problems using Vallejo extra opaque and old Citadel foundation paints with my airbrush, so unless the HD range are ridiculously thick n' chunky I can't foresee you having major issues. Just toss thinner at stuff until it works. 
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Feb 24, 2013 14:16
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Bachtere posted:The Happy Accident: In one of Grakkha's thirty seven quests on his path towards ultimate power, he was to climb the super tall H'mmounth Mountain and slay the ice dragon which lived at it's peak. When he got up there, Grakkha discovered the dragon had died of old age. In a fit of rage, he slammed his sword into the dragon's now dead heart. To his surprise, when he removed the sword, it had turned ice blue, and was imbued the essence of the dragon's power. Dude you need to start doing WiPs. I love that stuff. It would be great to actually see how your models develop.
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Feb 24, 2013 14:35
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Bachtere posted:Finished a bunch of Confrontation Orcs for the Oath thread. Normally I would be against selling my soul for talent but...
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Feb 24, 2013 17:43
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Got questions for great minds 1 - OK so I bought an airbrush. I got primer, gloss varnish, satin varnish, and matte varnish for it. My understanding is I can use my existing paints (thinned). I got a gravity feed one and some airbrush cleaner along with that cleaning station thing. Main reason I went gravity is to resist the urge to buy shitloads of extra bottles and adaptor caps. Did I go wrong anywhere? 2 - What do we know about use of vallejo pigments for weathering? From what I've read, if you varnish over a pigment the varnish mixes with them and they just turn translucent and you basically turn them into a wash. I read that you can use like isopropyl alcohol or something to make set them so you can varnish over them so they don't rub off. Is this true? How do I use pigments without loving up? 3 - Regarding varnishes also, should I be varnishing from time to time just to like seal in a layer of paint so it doesn't rub off or dilute while I'm painting over it, or using wash or whatever? I feel like this would be a great help because sometimes my paint rubs off before I'm finished with the mini.
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Feb 24, 2013 18:04
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I varnish before and after weathering powders, oil washes, and then once more at the very end. I like to gloss and then matte at the end. That way if you handle the model a lot, you can tell when/if you need to revarnish because it'll get shiny in spots. I've never used Vallejo powders, but the secret weapon ones don't disappear when varnished.
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Feb 24, 2013 18:09
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Took me long enough to finish this goddamn thing.        Now to tear through the rest of the Imperial Sector 
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Feb 24, 2013 20:44
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One thing I do envy about games with dozens of units that are the same is that you can paint a whole unit with one paint scheme. Just load your pallete with a bunch of paint and you are good to do 40. With Malifaux, every model I paint is, to me, a special and pretty snowflake and I have to clean up my paint after every one (or 2-4 if I am painting guys the equivalent of cannon fodder)
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Feb 24, 2013 22:05
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Regarding pigments- they will loose their dusty effect and color depth when you varnish over them. You have basically two options. Either varnish and pigment (this will give you the best effect, but it will rub off over time). Or you can use hairspray. Yup. Varnish, pigment, then brush on some hairspray to seal in the pigment. This seems to retain the most of the color, but you're still gona loose the dusty effect. Way overkill for most people, but I noticed this with my own pigments so I thought I'd share. I use secret weapon if that matters.
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Feb 24, 2013 22:32
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Can I leave my airbrush to soak overnight? It's an Iwata neo and I'm soaking it in windex. I've been having massive problems using it for the last couple of weeks so I've pulled the whole thing apart and dunked it.
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Feb 24, 2013 22:46
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My understanding is that its probably fine to do once or twice but repeated or extended soaking can start to degrade the seals and cause leaks.
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Feb 24, 2013 23:24
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Do Reaper, P3, or Vallejo make a product that would be a good substitute for GW glazes like bloodletter? I have been using this poo poo like crazy and it just makes my reds pop for almost no effort. I put all my paints in dropper bottles and I'd like to see if I could get it in a dropper already instead of transferring.
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Feb 24, 2013 23:51
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Been hunting for ages for a decent Servo Arm backpack to make up a Techmarine on Bike model for my marine army. Decided tonight to gently caress it and just make one myself - quite chuffed with how it's coming along:   
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Feb 25, 2013 00:22
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signalnoise posted:Do Reaper, P3, or Vallejo make a product that would be a good substitute for GW glazes like bloodletter? I have been using this poo poo like crazy and it just makes my reds pop for almost no effort. I put all my paints in dropper bottles and I'd like to see if I could get it in a dropper already instead of transferring. Dropper bottles are really cheap, but you can get glaze medium from Vallejo. I think you'll still need dropper bottles since you'll have to mix it in something, about 12:1 medium to paint.
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Feb 25, 2013 00:29
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Well your big problem is that you're using the wrong wash. You need a light brown or sepia to do yellow highlighting. I'd recommend Army Painter Quickshade Soft, because its bloody brilliant at doing yellows. The so called "army painter technique" that they pimp in this guide is actually super duper great for doing Imperial Fists. Basically you do what you have to do with any ink or wash, you apply the base coats then dip it in the wash and then reapply the base coat to some of the larger areas. If you don't want to spring for Army Painter you can also use Minwax Polyshades, probably in Pecan or Mission Oak. Regardless of what you use you should blast them down with a coat of Matte Varnish. OneTrueBru posted:When you say "bright colours but with highlights in crevasses", do you mean shading recesses manually, to avoid a full wash of the armour? Both of these look interesting, I'll have to do some shopping next weekend and see what I can find at my FLGS. Only problem I would have in the first option is having to go back over might be difficult with an airbrush and that seems the only way I can yellow reliably. One thought I had was doing the wash around the crevasses with the undercoat then adding the yellow since its razor thin. would this work or am I dreaming?
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Feb 25, 2013 01:54
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I'd like some painting advice please. Here is a picture of the Tyranids I am working on. It began with a white primer, then a very thin off-white base, then a wash of Agrax Earthshade (Devlan Mud). I was going to paint the carapace red or purple, but now I'm really liking the "old bone" look it has going on. I really don't want to change them at all now! Is there anything I could do to highlight the features I have now? Maybe a white edging or drybrushing? How do I keep this overall scheme but at the same time giving this creature some lively definition?
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Feb 25, 2013 03:08
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Bachtere those Orcs are really cool but look like they are slowly melding with that background you always use. Any way we could get some more photos of them on the tabletop/against some white?
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Feb 25, 2013 03:16
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EVIR Gibson posted:With Malifaux, every model I paint is, to me, a special and pretty snowflake 
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Feb 25, 2013 03:24
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Slimnoid posted:Took me long enough to finish this goddamn thing. Holy crap I really wanna play Necromunda on that. Brilliant!
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Feb 25, 2013 03:45
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SERPUS posted:I'd like some painting advice please. Here is a picture of the Tyranids I am working on. It began with a white primer, then a very thin off-white base, then a wash of Agrax Earthshade (Devlan Mud). I was going to paint the carapace red or purple, but now I'm really liking the "old bone" look it has going on. I really don't want to change them at all now! Is there anything I could do to highlight the features I have now? Maybe a white edging or drybrushing? How do I keep this overall scheme but at the same time giving this creature some lively definition? You can try streak painting the carapace in creams and tans. It'll look better than drybrushing and add more visual interest than edge highlights. It's also really easy and reasonably quick once you get the hang of it, so it's practical for a heap of Tyranids as well.
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Feb 25, 2013 04:02
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SERPUS posted:I'd like some painting advice please. Here is a picture of the Tyranids I am working on. It began with a white primer, then a very thin off-white base, then a wash of Agrax Earthshade (Devlan Mud). I was going to paint the carapace red or purple, but now I'm really liking the "old bone" look it has going on. I really don't want to change them at all now! Is there anything I could do to highlight the features I have now? Maybe a white edging or drybrushing? How do I keep this overall scheme but at the same time giving this creature some lively definition? Highlight the carapace to keep the bony look, then just give the flesh a different shade of brown/tan so it keeps your general idea.
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Feb 25, 2013 06:31
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