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I just moved around my network, and can't access my files. How do I go about doing this? Both PCs are on the same workgroup, but different LANS or something. Internet -> 8 port Linksys router (192.168.1.1) One port of that goes to my downstairs computer. One port of that goes to a wireless router. (192.168.1.2) I want my computer that is connected to WiFi to share files with the downstairs computer. HALP!
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2008 01:02 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 10:56 |
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Otacon posted:I just moved around my network, and can't access my files. How do I go about doing this? An illustration!
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2008 01:09 |
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Zorilla posted:Looks like you have two routers, huh? I'm assuming there is a nearly default configuration on each, which means things are getting NATed twice on the wireless side, which is unnecessary. This also means your wireless network is on a different subnet that is private from the rest of the network. I got it all working with your help, and the help of the Internet's Axim. Thanks, Axim and Zorilla! Also, had to disable Windows Firewall to get sharing to work - other than 445, are there any more ports I would need to open up?
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2008 03:35 |
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Kaso posted:You probally need to format and or partition the disk using windows Disk Management tool. Also, my external eSATA drive likes to start the device as "inactive" and the only way to mount it is to "reactivate" the hard disk through the Disk Management section in Administrative Tools
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2008 17:41 |
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Zoolooman posted:I bought the parts to assemble a new computer, with an ASUS PK5 and a Wolfdale core E8400. I've completed the sucker, but I have two problems: Does your motherboard have speaker terminals? How about getting an old system, removing the speakers, and temporarily mounting it to find out what sort of codes its beeping?
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2008 19:15 |
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simcole posted:I've been using my FuncPad for years. I love it. It's reversible and has 2 different textured surfaces. Plus you can wash it! I like that it's not so massive that it takes up my whole desktop either, though they have those options too. http://www.func.net/ Owner of a 1030 popping in here - I love this thing. It's two pieces, which can be troublesome to people - I used to HATE having the thing slide a half inch off of my desk, and then start bending/moving around inside the rubber border - I've gotten used to it, and it definitely is a lot better than using my desk. Teflon mouse feet slide across this thing like buttah. I don't use the cord-clip that came with it, since it really doesn't secure itself on the pad, and merely rests inside a groove - but other than that, I'm really happy with it.
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2008 15:55 |
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I just ran Sandra and it is telling me my ram (bank 1 and bank 2) is at 161.00 C. This is horribly bad, no? EDIT: Laptop with no real cooling of the RAM area whatsoever.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2008 16:23 |
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Madrat888 posted:Sorry if this has been asked. Ram runs at the lowest stick's speed. So, you might notice something slow.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2008 06:42 |
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viejo verde posted:Looking to do some simple computer upgrades and installing RAM is really the only thing that I know I can do myself... because I get fairly baffled whenever computer procedures go beyond plugging things into their appropriately shaped slots... so I have some questions and hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I might be able to make a few suggestions. Thanks in advance. The maximum supported memory on that motherboard is 4GB, which would be 1GB in each of the four bays. If you're running XP, you will only have about 3.4GB of that available. Ideally, you'd should get the same exact RAM as what you already have. As for the memory's speed, the computer will always run at the speed of the lowest memory stick - so no use in getting anything higher than PC3200.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2008 07:00 |
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Daydream posted:Networking has never been my strong side so I'm asking you people for some guidance. It's pretty specific so I haven't been able to google this up. Yes - a networking hub will do the trick. Also, this is an option: Is the computer in the room with the 360 a tower? If so, buy a PCI network card, install it in the tower, and run a shorter cable from the PC to the 360. Turn on Internet Connection Sharing, and you're good to go. While this may be the cheapest option, it means that whenever you want to play 360 online, the computer must be on. If you choose the hub route, you don't need an actual router - if that is the only equipment you can find, it will work - just turn off the router aspect. You don't need DHCP on this box - your main box already does this, and signals will get crossed and mixed up if you have two boxes on your network trying to run DHCP.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2008 21:48 |
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admiraldennis posted:What's the acutal danger of using the 7 volt current between the 12V and 5V lines? I never had any problems running three 120mm fans at 7 volts, and I ran it that way for almost 4 years before I retired the machine. In fact, I still have the same power supply in my mother's computer. I'd say it's a bunch of hype, and that it works just fine.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2008 02:17 |
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I have a dead hard drive. It is a Fujitsu MHT2080AT-PL 80gb 8mb cache 4200rpm drive. The drive will not spin up with its current logic board. I substituted the logic board for another from a different model Fujitsu, and the drive spins up but is not detected. Therefore, the logicboard is bad and must be replaced with an exact model. Where can I go to get an exact replacement? I need it ASAP.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2009 20:18 |
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Saukkis posted:I would first try eBay, but at least this company seems to sell them. $30 for a PCB with $25 shipping. Obscene. I found an exact match on eBay and just purchased it. Thanks for the idea.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2009 00:42 |
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Kreez posted:I boot from a WD 250GB drive. I have an empty identical drive sitting around. How would I go about making an exact copy of the boot drive? Ideally including all the boot stuff, so if the first drive fails, I can pop the new one in and have it work right away. Any imaging software, such as Acronis ($$) or Norton Ghost ($$$) or even CloneMaxx (free!) will do the trick - you're looking to clone your drive. There are many other options available, but I've only ever used Acronis and Ghost. Note: you will need another computer to do this, as you shouldn't attempt to clone a drive that's currently in use by Windows (but it is possible, just risky)
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2009 19:55 |
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Grawl posted:Is there a safe way to share an external hard drive for two computers? I got a new one a few months ago, but the other one is still working fine. I was thinking about using one for gaming and the other for music/videos, but that'd have no use if there's not much on it. Two options: One - if the computers are networked through a Router or Switch, you can purchase a hard drive enclosure that has a CAT5 connector - most are referred to as a NAS, or Network Attached Storage. These can be expensive, but Newegg carries this for $130. Considering I spent $50 on my external enclosure, that's not too bad. The other option would be to build a small server - throw together a cheap small form factor computer, pop in a PCI networking card, and hook that puppy up to the router - good to go. Wouldn't even need a monitor, either. This is the first step in creating a Home Theater PC, which a lot of people have hooked to their TVs. Convenient, but can be quite a lot more expensive than that enclosure. Keep in mind that this computer would be running 24/7 - as such, maybe something else than Windows would be useful. Hope this helps! EDIT: Newegg told me something was NAS without it actually being NAS. Oops! Fixed link. Otacon fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Mar 4, 2009 |
# ¿ Mar 4, 2009 04:02 |
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Maytag posted:I'd like to buy one of these: Look at your power supply - you might not have enough juice in that old Dell box to get the 260 running.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2009 05:31 |
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The minute you boot it up, MSCONFIG and remove every single program that they've added on startup. You will then fall in love with it. Awesome machines with processor-hungry speed-crippling software.
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2009 21:18 |
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A guy brought in a Cyberpower build from about 1.5 years ago - his power supply was a Thermaltake 750w - dead as Dillinger, and it dying also took along with it his ram. (Thank god Mushkin honored their lifetime warranty) Cyberpower told him to screw off when he tried calling them out on using a failing power supply. Take that how you may.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2009 21:22 |
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AquaVita posted:Is there a flash drive out there that isn't a piece of poo poo that will break right off of my keychain literally 30 minutes after I buy it? Every single one I've gotten over the last few years breaks eventually, but this last one didn't last an hour. I put keys in my pockets, walk to the grocery store, broken. http://usb.brando.com.hk/eagletec-usb-nano-flash-drive_p00892c041d15.html http://www.supertalent.com/products/stt_usb_detail.php?type=Pico And depending upon how long you wish to wait: http://www.engadget.com/2009/03/02/lacies-new-sally-struthers-approved-usb-key-drives/
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2009 02:51 |
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TheBestDeception posted:When a motherboard specifies it has a Memory Limit, (i.e. 2 DIMMs w/ DDR2 667/800 upto 4GB), does this refer to each individual RAM stick, or a total amount of RAM for the motherboard? Total
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2009 18:32 |
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Reggie Died posted:I have a Razor Copperhead mouse that seems to disconnect every time I restart my computer. Whenever the computer boots up, I have to manually unplug the usb connection and plug it back in before it is recognized. My Copperhead experienced the same problems. It was only a year old. I ended up chucking it and bought a Reaper brand mouse. It lasted about 3 months before the laser died. I ended up chucking that, too. I recently purchased a Logitech MX518 and have experienced no issues - except my left click is a lot louder now than it was a week ago. Maybe I just have bad luck with mice.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2009 13:23 |
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We recently built a new system for a customer. We're using his old hard drive, which was against my better judgment - for one, it originally had Win98 on it, and therefore is FAT32 - and two, it is highly cluttered with so many folders in C root that I can barely find the Windows folder without hitting W. Regardless - we built the system, the hard drive is in, and we run the Windows Repair. It seems to go through just fine - no errors, everything is peachy keen - but it won't finish the setup process - it just locks up. The previous system was an Intel cpu, the new one is an AMD - I disabled the IntelPPM through the registry (changed the Start val from 1 to 4) and ran another repair install. It got a little further this time - and then halts again at the screen shown below. What am I doing wrong? I'm posting the setuperr.log file below: quote:Error: After looking at the below screen for over an hour, I rebooted. I was able to get into the user-chooser, and load up either his name or Administrator (using the CTRL-ALT-DELx2 trick) but it tells me I can't logon unless I activate - so I choose yes, and I get stuck at a blank desktop with no icons, no start menu, only the mouse - CTRL-ALT-DEL doesn't do anything, and even pressing Shift 5 times won't bring up StickyKeys - and the only thing I can do at that point is reboot. Please help! The only other option is backing up his clutter, formatting the drive to NTFS, and loading individual programs back on - but the customer made it clear that he'd be in a heap of trouble if he had to reinstall everything. Any guesses? Otacon fucked around with this message at 19:34 on May 16, 2009 |
# ¿ May 16, 2009 19:30 |
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Avoid HPs and Toshibas like the plague. Not only are you going to get lousy support, but most of their laptop lines are horribly bugged with hardware that's known to fail prematurely. (POWER BUTTON RIBBONS, I'M LOOKING AT YOU!) If you're looking for anything prefab, I hate to say it but Dell would be the way to go. Warning: If you go to BestBuy, you DO NOT GET MANUFACTURER SUPPORT. If you buy a Dell at Bestbuy, you WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET DELL TO SUPPORT YOUR SYSTEM. You will be conned into having GeekSquad do all of your warranty/repair business. Really, it doesn't make sense to buy a computer from BestBuy. You overpay now, and when it breaks, you overpay to have it repaired - and if you don't want it repaired, you overpay for a new model from Bestbuy. Honestly - find a local computer shop (Yellowpages!) or find a friend in the know and have him build something nice and cheap - or order a netbook/laptop from online. Hell, go check out the Dell Depot and find a preconfigured system that someone else didn't want to pay for - it'll be cheaper than a custom order, and will ship out to you within 2-4 days instead of 2-4 weeks. It's win/win. Just, really - for the sake of your wallet, your sanity, and your entire family - DON'T SHOP FOR A NEW COMPUTER AT BESTBUY! Also, DON'T GET GEEKSQUAD TO DO ANY OF YOUR REPAIRS. I work in the computer repair business, and that's my 2 cents.
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# ¿ May 21, 2009 12:06 |
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CloFan posted:I need a longer USB front panel cable. The one that came with my htpc case was about 2 inches too short (with PCI card installed, breaking the line-of-sight connection which barely reached). http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8784/cab-167/FrozenCPU_Internal_USB_Extension_Cable_-_400mm_PUSB04.html You're welcome!
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# ¿ May 25, 2009 23:05 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:If it's XP, it's NTFS. I don't think it's possible to install XP on a FAT32 partition. It's very possible. And highly annoying. Handtruck: When the "thick 4 pin cable" is plugged in, does the drive spin up? Stick your ear to it. A high pitched "gearing up" sound means the platters are spinning. Continue listening to it. Does the drive click? Does it make any soft-beeping noises? What brand and model is the drive? Have you attempted to go into your own computers BIOS and see if the drive is detected under an IDE channel?
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# ¿ Jun 15, 2009 22:35 |
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My buddy has a EVGA GTX 260 card (this one) which I was about to buy for my new system in a slightly older case that I don't want to replace. However, that card is literally .25" too long - it bumps into a lower hard drive rack. Now, while I have almost 12 other places to put drives in this case, I don't want to remove the rack. Is there a card on par with the GTX 260, around the same price range ($200ish) that is less than an inch shorter? thehandtruck posted:I couldn't remember the name "Molex". They didn't call them Fireballs for no reason at all. There are chips on that drive's PCB that can get so hot they literally become fireballs. You're lucky your drive is simply not being read - people have had their entire computers insta-gibbed when using those drives. Otacon fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jun 16, 2009 |
# ¿ Jun 16, 2009 23:49 |
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clockworkjoe posted:I'm not sure this is the right thread but I'm looking for a relatively low cost gaming PC. I see a bunch of them on tigerdirect and newegg but I don't know what will offer the best bang for buck and what's overkill. I want to play new PC games like crysis but I don't need the absolute top of hte line because I only have a 19 screen. Preferably something 800 bucks or less. Let's try it this way. Click here to view Tiger Direct's only $800.00 computer "tuned" towards gaming. Really. click it. Read it. See how 80% of the pictures are of the case? And they don't list part manufacturers anywhere? Just their model numbers? There's a reason for that. Let's break it all down - compared to NewEgg. First, the processor isn't even current enough to be on NewEgg's inventory. It's the AMD Quad-Core 2.2ghz processor, the 9550. Newegg's lowest speed Phenoms run at 2.3ghz - there's the 9600, and the 9650 - the former runs $90 with an AMD cpu-cooler - the latter runs $130 without one. So, we'll say that the processor in there is worth less than $130. Next, the 640gb hard drive. Most likely it's this Western Digital right here listed for $70. Let's move to the ram. Two sticks of 2gb DDR2 PC2-4200 memory, for a total of 4gb of RAM. PC2-4200 memory is slow by today's standards, and NewEgg has tons of faster memory for only a few dollars more than this garbage that may be in that system, which would cost $49. Much better ram can be had for that same price. Then, the video card. It doesn't give all the details, but I'm fairly sure that's a "SAPPHIRE 100245L Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card," which NewEgg doesn't have in stock anymore - but there is an Open Box'd one sitting at $98.89. Newegg, better cards are in the $150 range, with the really good ones around $250. Now we're at the hardest stage - identifying that motherboard. After looking at pictures of motherboards for 20 minutes, I'm 100% positive it is this: the ASUS M3A78-EM - and NewEgg has it for $78.99 - with a $10 rebate, it's $68.99. $129 for that processor $70 for the hard drive $49 for that awful RAM $99 for playing Crysis at a whopping 20fps $79 for a do-it-all motherboard that already has onboard video Thats $429 just for the hardware alone. Which leaves a whole $371 to spend on a 500 watt power supply (~$25-$50), a keyboard and a mouse ($20-$40), $100 for Windows Vista, and a bad-rear end case. (thank you Sir Nigel for the corrections.) Even with these added costs (which don't cost TigerDirect nearly ANYTHING) you'd still have AT LEAST $180 left for the case. Which is a pretty bad-rear end case. Now, imagine buying newer technology, at slightly higher prices, and putting an actual $800 towards a gaming machine. Do you get it now? Otacon fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jun 18, 2009 |
# ¿ Jun 18, 2009 05:54 |
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For most processors these days, if the amount you use is larger than a grain of rice, you're using too much. I used to take my time, and tediously spread it until it was a micro-thin layer spread entirely across the surface of the chip - now, I put just a dab in the middle (literally a dab - usually half the size of a grain of rice) and smack that heatsink right on top. The tightening-down of the HSF is enough to spread that junk super-thin. (keep in mind, this is for AM2/AM3 and the new Intel line with no visible core - just a large metal surface. You want to use this stuff to fill in the barely-visible cracks and scratches in the heatsink or CPU surface. That's all.
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2009 15:23 |
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Ryuga Death posted:I'm using Vista Ultimate 32-bit. I have a question about the power options and sleep, I have my computer set to sleep after an hour, but how is my computer supposed to look like when it is asleep? My computer still has fans and lights running, despite the monitor having no display and it being inactive for over an hour. Is there something wrong? Sleep = reduced hard drive + monitor off Hibernate = system looks to be shut down, but an LED is blinking
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2009 23:45 |
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A client of ours has a Dell Poweredge 2600 from mid-2003. It has a single 2.6ghz XEON processcor, with an empty socket on the motherboard for another Xeon. We're pricing him out an upgrade which would bring him up to 4gb of RAM, and adding a second processor. Questions: 1. I'm finding two different XEON 2.6s: the RK80532EC064512, and the RN80532KC064512 - the only difference is RK compared to RN, and EC compared to KC. We cannot find any further information about the Poweredge at the moment. How close do these processors need to be to work correctly together? 2. Is this a simple process of inserting the processor, applying the compound and installing heatsink? Will Windows Server 2003 whine and need me to repair install? Will the computer boot up fine after we alter the BIOS? 3. Dell Business is quoting them almost $220 to go from 2gb to 4gb of ram. It's regular DDR - PC2100. Other than looking on NewEgg for server ram, is there anything that the Dell ram can provide me other than peace of mind? Thanks!
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2009 20:47 |
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Ideally, you'd want as low-heat of a hard drive as possible - this means a slower spinning hard drive, which can also improve battery life. Most laptop hard drives have speeds 5200rpm, with some reaching 7200rpm. While you may experience a little less snappiness (very slight though) with the slower hard drive, the gains would be longevity and lower power consumption. I had a 7200rpm drive that would heat up to 90 degrees in my laptop and cause severe instability. I tried a 5400rpm, and was barely hitting temperatures around 60. As for brands, I work in a computer repair place. Most of our failed 2.5" drives are either Hitachi, Samsung, Toshiba, or Fujitsu - we rarely see failed Western Digitals or Seagates, but they do pop up with smart errors every now and again. In terms of capacities, all I can say is this: If the drive ever DOES take a poo poo, you'll sink a lot less money into recovering 100gb of pictures instead of 500gb of movies music and pictures. I can't vouch for the "shelf life" of the data on higher capacity drives, but 250gb seems to be the sweet spot at the moment for both cost effectiveness and storage space. (About ~$60.) Have fun in India! Otacon fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jul 29, 2009 |
# ¿ Jul 28, 2009 08:26 |
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What the hell is this? Reinstalled video drivers, but I imagine it's the lovely Dell provided Nvidia 7200GS. Only happens when a GUI popup happens (msconfig dialog, start menu, notification bubbles, etc.)
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2009 06:35 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 10:56 |
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Can't you just set the affinity to 1? Open the game and start playing. CTRL-ALT-DEL to bring up task manager. Find the game's EXE (it's using the most processes) and right click to bring up the change affinity menu. Select only one core. That's essentially doing the same thing, is it not?
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2009 08:23 |