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Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


I just moved around my network, and can't access my files. How do I go about doing this?

Both PCs are on the same workgroup, but different LANS or something.

Internet -> 8 port Linksys router (192.168.1.1)

One port of that goes to my downstairs computer. One port of that goes to a wireless router. (192.168.1.2) I want my computer that is connected to WiFi to share files with the downstairs computer.

HALP!

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Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Otacon posted:

I just moved around my network, and can't access my files. How do I go about doing this?

Both PCs are on the same workgroup, but different LANS or something.

Internet -> 8 port Linksys router (192.168.1.1)

One port of that goes to my downstairs computer. One port of that goes to a wireless router. (192.168.1.2) I want my computer that is connected to WiFi to share files with the downstairs computer.

HALP!

An illustration!

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Zorilla posted:

Looks like you have two routers, huh? I'm assuming there is a nearly default configuration on each, which means things are getting NATed twice on the wireless side, which is unnecessary. This also means your wireless network is on a different subnet that is private from the rest of the network.

Turn off routing, DHCP, etc., and anything else on your wireless router that makes it anything more than an AP/switch. This should put everything on the same network.

I got it all working with your help, and the help of the Internet's Axim. Thanks, Axim and Zorilla!

Also, had to disable Windows Firewall to get sharing to work - other than 445, are there any more ports I would need to open up?

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Kaso posted:

You probally need to format and or partition the disk using windows Disk Management tool.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/309000

Also, my external eSATA drive likes to start the device as "inactive" and the only way to mount it is to "reactivate" the hard disk through the Disk Management section in Administrative Tools

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Zoolooman posted:

I bought the parts to assemble a new computer, with an ASUS PK5 and a Wolfdale core E8400. I've completed the sucker, but I have two problems:

1. My Antec P182 has no case speaker and cannot give me POST beeps.

2. After thirty seconds, nothing comes on the monitor. I don't think it's POSTing, but I can't be sure.

Two possibilities come to mind. One, I need to buy another CPU, perform the tedious process of installing it, flashing the BIOS, and then reinstalling my E8400. Or two, my E8400 is broke. :(

Are there any other possibilities? Does anyone have any good ideas how to approach troubleshooting this situation?

Does your motherboard have speaker terminals? How about getting an old system, removing the speakers, and temporarily mounting it to find out what sort of codes its beeping?

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


simcole posted:

I've been using my FuncPad for years. I love it. It's reversible and has 2 different textured surfaces. Plus you can wash it! I like that it's not so massive that it takes up my whole desktop either, though they have those options too. http://www.func.net/

Owner of a 1030 popping in here - I love this thing. It's two pieces, which can be troublesome to people - I used to HATE having the thing slide a half inch off of my desk, and then start bending/moving around inside the rubber border - I've gotten used to it, and it definitely is a lot better than using my desk. Teflon mouse feet slide across this thing like buttah.

I don't use the cord-clip that came with it, since it really doesn't secure itself on the pad, and merely rests inside a groove - but other than that, I'm really happy with it.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


I just ran Sandra and it is telling me my ram (bank 1 and bank 2) is at 161.00 C. This is horribly bad, no?

EDIT: Laptop with no real cooling of the RAM area whatsoever.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Madrat888 posted:

Sorry if this has been asked.

I have two 1gig sticks of 3200 RAM, I just found a 1gig stick of 2700, what would happen if I added it for a total of 3 gigs? Will it make a difference? Will it make my PC slower?

Thanks in advance.

Ram runs at the lowest stick's speed. So, you might notice something slow.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


viejo verde posted:

Looking to do some simple computer upgrades and installing RAM is really the only thing that I know I can do myself... because I get fairly baffled whenever computer procedures go beyond plugging things into their appropriately shaped slots... so I have some questions and hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I might be able to make a few suggestions. Thanks in advance.

The current box I have is running an Asus A8N-E NFORCE 4 ultra 939 Motherboard with 2 sticks of Corsair XMS 1024MB(1GB) PC3200 ddr RAM. (Typed these descriptions from the boxes all by myself:P And included the MB info because I didn't know if that would influence the type of RAM I could have). So anyway, I was hoping someone might be able to recommend another set of RAM that might work with this current setup as my MB still has 2 remaining slots open, and I know that RAM is running pretty cheap right now... just didn't know what kind to get. Thanks again for taking the time to read this and maybe even reply.

The maximum supported memory on that motherboard is 4GB, which would be 1GB in each of the four bays. If you're running XP, you will only have about 3.4GB of that available. Ideally, you'd should get the same exact RAM as what you already have. As for the memory's speed, the computer will always run at the speed of the lowest memory stick - so no use in getting anything higher than PC3200.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Daydream posted:

Networking has never been my strong side so I'm asking you people for some guidance. It's pretty specific so I haven't been able to google this up.

I have a router with internet connection. Into it I've plugged a long cable, stretching through the house, to another room with a computer where the router's wireless does not reach. I recently bought an Xbox 360 and now need two internet connections in that room. Pulling another long cable doesn't feel feasible and I can't move the router. What can I do? Is it possible to connect this long cable to a second router and plug the two machines into that one?

Yes - a networking hub will do the trick. Also, this is an option: Is the computer in the room with the 360 a tower? If so, buy a PCI network card, install it in the tower, and run a shorter cable from the PC to the 360. Turn on Internet Connection Sharing, and you're good to go. While this may be the cheapest option, it means that whenever you want to play 360 online, the computer must be on.

If you choose the hub route, you don't need an actual router - if that is the only equipment you can find, it will work - just turn off the router aspect. You don't need DHCP on this box - your main box already does this, and signals will get crossed and mixed up if you have two boxes on your network trying to run DHCP.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


admiraldennis posted:

What's the acutal danger of using the 7 volt current between the 12V and 5V lines?

I've heard everything from "if it shorts it will blow everything up" to "it's bad because it's feeding current back into the PSU" to "nothing is wrong with doing that, the danger is all hype".

What's the real story here?

I want to power some fans this way; I figure like 1-2 amps at the most. I have a decent PSU in the machine (Corsair VX450), if it matters.

I never had any problems running three 120mm fans at 7 volts, and I ran it that way for almost 4 years before I retired the machine. In fact, I still have the same power supply in my mother's computer. I'd say it's a bunch of hype, and that it works just fine.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


I have a dead hard drive. It is a Fujitsu MHT2080AT-PL 80gb 8mb cache 4200rpm drive. The drive will not spin up with its current logic board. I substituted the logic board for another from a different model Fujitsu, and the drive spins up but is not detected. Therefore, the logicboard is bad and must be replaced with an exact model.

Where can I go to get an exact replacement? I need it ASAP.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Saukkis posted:

I would first try eBay, but at least this company seems to sell them.

$30 for a PCB with $25 shipping. Obscene.

I found an exact match on eBay and just purchased it. Thanks for the idea.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Kreez posted:

I boot from a WD 250GB drive. I have an empty identical drive sitting around. How would I go about making an exact copy of the boot drive? Ideally including all the boot stuff, so if the first drive fails, I can pop the new one in and have it work right away.

Any imaging software, such as Acronis ($$) or Norton Ghost ($$$) or even CloneMaxx (free!) will do the trick - you're looking to clone your drive. There are many other options available, but I've only ever used Acronis and Ghost. Note: you will need another computer to do this, as you shouldn't attempt to clone a drive that's currently in use by Windows (but it is possible, just risky)

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Grawl posted:

Is there a safe way to share an external hard drive for two computers? I got a new one a few months ago, but the other one is still working fine. I was thinking about using one for gaming and the other for music/videos, but that'd have no use if there's not much on it.

Two options:

One - if the computers are networked through a Router or Switch, you can purchase a hard drive enclosure that has a CAT5 connector - most are referred to as a NAS, or Network Attached Storage. These can be expensive, but Newegg carries this for $130. Considering I spent $50 on my external enclosure, that's not too bad.

The other option would be to build a small server - throw together a cheap small form factor computer, pop in a PCI networking card, and hook that puppy up to the router - good to go. Wouldn't even need a monitor, either. This is the first step in creating a Home Theater PC, which a lot of people have hooked to their TVs. Convenient, but can be quite a lot more expensive than that enclosure. Keep in mind that this computer would be running 24/7 - as such, maybe something else than Windows would be useful.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: Newegg told me something was NAS without it actually being NAS. Oops! Fixed link.

Otacon fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Mar 4, 2009

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Maytag posted:

I'd like to buy one of these:
video card
and one of these:
RAM

but how can I tell if my system can handle them? It's a Dell Dimension 9200 with this already in it:
Intel Core Duo 1.86
Radeon X1300 256 meg
1 gig DDR2 SDRAM

If those won't work, what would be comparable that would work? Let me know if you need any more info on the system.

Look at your power supply - you might not have enough juice in that old Dell box to get the 260 running.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


The minute you boot it up, MSCONFIG and remove every single program that they've added on startup. You will then fall in love with it. Awesome machines with processor-hungry speed-crippling software.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


A guy brought in a Cyberpower build from about 1.5 years ago - his power supply was a Thermaltake 750w - dead as Dillinger, and it dying also took along with it his ram. (Thank god Mushkin honored their lifetime warranty)

Cyberpower told him to screw off when he tried calling them out on using a failing power supply.

Take that how you may.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


AquaVita posted:

Is there a flash drive out there that isn't a piece of poo poo that will break right off of my keychain literally 30 minutes after I buy it? Every single one I've gotten over the last few years breaks eventually, but this last one didn't last an hour. I put keys in my pockets, walk to the grocery store, broken.

Anyone have any good suggestions?
http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/flash_drives/ocz_atv_usb_2_0_flash-drive
http://usb.brando.com.hk/eagletec-usb-nano-flash-drive_p00892c041d15.html
http://www.supertalent.com/products/stt_usb_detail.php?type=Pico
And depending upon how long you wish to wait: http://www.engadget.com/2009/03/02/lacies-new-sally-struthers-approved-usb-key-drives/

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


TheBestDeception posted:

When a motherboard specifies it has a Memory Limit, (i.e. 2 DIMMs w/ DDR2 667/800 upto 4GB), does this refer to each individual RAM stick, or a total amount of RAM for the motherboard?

Total

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Reggie Died posted:

I have a Razor Copperhead mouse that seems to disconnect every time I restart my computer. Whenever the computer boots up, I have to manually unplug the usb connection and plug it back in before it is recognized.

This wasn't such a big deal because I used the front usb ports on my old computer. However, with my new case, I'm using the back ports and it's becoming a pain in the rear end. I've uninstalled and reinstalled drivers multiple times to no avail.

I'm using Vista right now but the problem also occurred on XP.

My Copperhead experienced the same problems. It was only a year old. I ended up chucking it and bought a Reaper brand mouse. It lasted about 3 months before the laser died. I ended up chucking that, too. I recently purchased a Logitech MX518 and have experienced no issues - except my left click is a lot louder now than it was a week ago. Maybe I just have bad luck with mice.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


We recently built a new system for a customer. We're using his old hard drive, which was against my better judgment - for one, it originally had Win98 on it, and therefore is FAT32 - and two, it is highly cluttered with so many folders in C root that I can barely find the Windows folder without hitting W.

Regardless - we built the system, the hard drive is in, and we run the Windows Repair. It seems to go through just fine - no errors, everything is peachy keen - but it won't finish the setup process - it just locks up. The previous system was an Intel cpu, the new one is an AMD - I disabled the IntelPPM through the registry (changed the Start val from 1 to 4) and ran another repair install. It got a little further this time - and then halts again at the screen shown below.

What am I doing wrong? I'm posting the setuperr.log file below:

quote:

Error:
Setup had problems registering the following OLE control DLL:

C:\WINDOWS\system32\rundll32.exe

Contact your system administrator, who may provide assistance in diagnosing this problem.

***

Error:
Setup could not register the OLE Control C:\WINDOWS\system32\mshtml.dll because of the following error:
GetProcAddress returned error 127 (the specified procedure could not be found).


***

Error:
Setup could not register the OLE Control C:\WINDOWS\system32\msrating.dll because of the following error:
GetProcAddress returned error 127 (the specified procedure could not be found).


***

Error:
Setup could not register the OLE Control C:\WINDOWS\system32\inseng.dll because of the following error:
GetProcAddress returned error 127 (the specified procedure could not be found).


***

Error:
Setup could not register the OLE Control C:\WINDOWS\system32\occache.dll because of the following error:
GetProcAddress returned error 127 (the specified procedure could not be found).


***

Error:
Setup could not register the OLE Control C:\WINDOWS\system32\webcheck.dll because of the following error:
GetProcAddress returned error 127 (the specified procedure could not be found).


***

Error:
Setup could not register the OLE Control C:\WINDOWS\system32\imgutil.dll because of the following error:
GetProcAddress returned error 127 (the specified procedure could not be found).


***

Error:
Setup could not register the OLE Control C:\WINDOWS\system32\pngfilt.dll because of the following error:
GetProcAddress returned error 127 (the specified procedure could not be found).


***

Warning:
Setup was unable to invoke external program RUNONCE -r because of the following error:
WaitOnApp returned error 258 (102).


***

After looking at the below screen for over an hour, I rebooted. I was able to get into the user-chooser, and load up either his name or Administrator (using the CTRL-ALT-DELx2 trick) but it tells me I can't logon unless I activate - so I choose yes, and I get stuck at a blank desktop with no icons, no start menu, only the mouse - CTRL-ALT-DEL doesn't do anything, and even pressing Shift 5 times won't bring up StickyKeys - and the only thing I can do at that point is reboot.

Please help! The only other option is backing up his clutter, formatting the drive to NTFS, and loading individual programs back on - but the customer made it clear that he'd be in a heap of trouble if he had to reinstall everything. Any guesses?

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Otacon fucked around with this message at 19:34 on May 16, 2009

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Avoid HPs and Toshibas like the plague. Not only are you going to get lousy support, but most of their laptop lines are horribly bugged with hardware that's known to fail prematurely. (POWER BUTTON RIBBONS, I'M LOOKING AT YOU!)

If you're looking for anything prefab, I hate to say it but Dell would be the way to go.

Warning: If you go to BestBuy, you DO NOT GET MANUFACTURER SUPPORT. If you buy a Dell at Bestbuy, you WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET DELL TO SUPPORT YOUR SYSTEM. You will be conned into having GeekSquad do all of your warranty/repair business.

Really, it doesn't make sense to buy a computer from BestBuy. You overpay now, and when it breaks, you overpay to have it repaired - and if you don't want it repaired, you overpay for a new model from Bestbuy.

Honestly - find a local computer shop (Yellowpages!) or find a friend in the know and have him build something nice and cheap - or order a netbook/laptop from online. Hell, go check out the Dell Depot and find a preconfigured system that someone else didn't want to pay for - it'll be cheaper than a custom order, and will ship out to you within 2-4 days instead of 2-4 weeks. It's win/win.

Just, really - for the sake of your wallet, your sanity, and your entire family - DON'T SHOP FOR A NEW COMPUTER AT BESTBUY! Also, DON'T GET GEEKSQUAD TO DO ANY OF YOUR REPAIRS.

I work in the computer repair business, and that's my 2 cents.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


CloFan posted:

I need a longer USB front panel cable. The one that came with my htpc case was about 2 inches too short (with PCI card installed, breaking the line-of-sight connection which barely reached).

Should I just solder some Cat5 to lengthen it? It's incredibly hard to search on google for this because you get all kinds of USB related results, none of which you want.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8784/cab-167/FrozenCPU_Internal_USB_Extension_Cable_-_400mm_PUSB04.html

You're welcome!

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Ensign Expendable posted:

If it's XP, it's NTFS. I don't think it's possible to install XP on a FAT32 partition.

When you plugged it in, did you use the same IDE channel as some other drive?

It's very possible. And highly annoying.

Handtruck: When the "thick 4 pin cable" is plugged in, does the drive spin up? Stick your ear to it. A high pitched "gearing up" sound means the platters are spinning. Continue listening to it. Does the drive click? Does it make any soft-beeping noises?

What brand and model is the drive?

Have you attempted to go into your own computers BIOS and see if the drive is detected under an IDE channel?

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


My buddy has a EVGA GTX 260 card (this one) which I was about to buy for my new system in a slightly older case that I don't want to replace. However, that card is literally .25" too long - it bumps into a lower hard drive rack. Now, while I have almost 12 other places to put drives in this case, I don't want to remove the rack.

Is there a card on par with the GTX 260, around the same price range ($200ish) that is less than an inch shorter?

thehandtruck posted:

I couldn't remember the name "Molex".
It does gear up and clicks a little at first but then stops. No beeping noises.
It's a Seagate Fireball 3.
I don't see it in BIOS, which is strange.



edit:VVV Yeah, I did that. I don't think it would have shown up in Storage/Disk Management if I hadn't.

Thanks for the help guys I think it's just dead or something.


They didn't call them Fireballs for no reason at all. There are chips on that drive's PCB that can get so hot they literally become fireballs. You're lucky your drive is simply not being read - people have had their entire computers insta-gibbed when using those drives.

Otacon fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jun 16, 2009

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


clockworkjoe posted:

I'm not sure this is the right thread but I'm looking for a relatively low cost gaming PC. I see a bunch of them on tigerdirect and newegg but I don't know what will offer the best bang for buck and what's overkill. I want to play new PC games like crysis but I don't need the absolute top of hte line because I only have a 19 screen. Preferably something 800 bucks or less.

Would it be much cheaper to build one on my own?

Let's try it this way.
Click here to view Tiger Direct's only $800.00 computer "tuned" towards gaming. Really. click it. Read it. See how 80% of the pictures are of the case? And they don't list part manufacturers anywhere? Just their model numbers?

There's a reason for that.

Let's break it all down - compared to NewEgg.

First, the processor isn't even current enough to be on NewEgg's inventory. It's the AMD Quad-Core 2.2ghz processor, the 9550. Newegg's lowest speed Phenoms run at 2.3ghz - there's the 9600, and the 9650 - the former runs $90 with an AMD cpu-cooler - the latter runs $130 without one. So, we'll say that the processor in there is worth less than $130.

Next, the 640gb hard drive. Most likely it's this Western Digital right here listed for $70.

Let's move to the ram. Two sticks of 2gb DDR2 PC2-4200 memory, for a total of 4gb of RAM. PC2-4200 memory is slow by today's standards, and NewEgg has tons of faster memory for only a few dollars more than this garbage that may be in that system, which would cost $49. Much better ram can be had for that same price.

Then, the video card. It doesn't give all the details, but I'm fairly sure that's a "SAPPHIRE 100245L Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card," which NewEgg doesn't have in stock anymore - but there is an Open Box'd one sitting at $98.89. Newegg, better cards are in the $150 range, with the really good ones around $250.

Now we're at the hardest stage - identifying that motherboard. After looking at pictures of motherboards for 20 minutes, I'm 100% positive it is this: the ASUS M3A78-EM - and NewEgg has it for $78.99 - with a $10 rebate, it's $68.99.

$129 for that processor
$70 for the hard drive
$49 for that awful RAM
$99 for playing Crysis at a whopping 20fps
$79 for a do-it-all motherboard that already has onboard video

Thats $429 just for the hardware alone. Which leaves a whole $371 to spend on a 500 watt power supply (~$25-$50), a keyboard and a mouse ($20-$40), $100 for Windows Vista, and a bad-rear end case. (thank you Sir Nigel for the corrections.) Even with these added costs (which don't cost TigerDirect nearly ANYTHING) you'd still have AT LEAST $180 left for the case. Which is a pretty bad-rear end case.

Now, imagine buying newer technology, at slightly higher prices, and putting an actual $800 towards a gaming machine.

Do you get it now?

Otacon fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jun 18, 2009

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


For most processors these days, if the amount you use is larger than a grain of rice, you're using too much. I used to take my time, and tediously spread it until it was a micro-thin layer spread entirely across the surface of the chip - now, I put just a dab in the middle (literally a dab - usually half the size of a grain of rice) and smack that heatsink right on top. The tightening-down of the HSF is enough to spread that junk super-thin. (keep in mind, this is for AM2/AM3 and the new Intel line with no visible core - just a large metal surface.

You want to use this stuff to fill in the barely-visible cracks and scratches in the heatsink or CPU surface. That's all.

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Ryuga Death posted:

I'm using Vista Ultimate 32-bit. I have a question about the power options and sleep, I have my computer set to sleep after an hour, but how is my computer supposed to look like when it is asleep? My computer still has fans and lights running, despite the monitor having no display and it being inactive for over an hour. Is there something wrong?

Sleep = reduced hard drive + monitor off
Hibernate = system looks to be shut down, but an LED is blinking

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


A client of ours has a Dell Poweredge 2600 from mid-2003. It has a single 2.6ghz XEON processcor, with an empty socket on the motherboard for another Xeon.

We're pricing him out an upgrade which would bring him up to 4gb of RAM, and adding a second processor.

Questions:
1. I'm finding two different XEON 2.6s: the RK80532EC064512, and the RN80532KC064512 - the only difference is RK compared to RN, and EC compared to KC. We cannot find any further information about the Poweredge at the moment. How close do these processors need to be to work correctly together?

2. Is this a simple process of inserting the processor, applying the compound and installing heatsink? Will Windows Server 2003 whine and need me to repair install? Will the computer boot up fine after we alter the BIOS?

3. Dell Business is quoting them almost $220 to go from 2gb to 4gb of ram. It's regular DDR - PC2100. Other than looking on NewEgg for server ram, is there anything that the Dell ram can provide me other than peace of mind?

Thanks!

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Ideally, you'd want as low-heat of a hard drive as possible - this means a slower spinning hard drive, which can also improve battery life. Most laptop hard drives have speeds 5200rpm, with some reaching 7200rpm. While you may experience a little less snappiness (very slight though) with the slower hard drive, the gains would be longevity and lower power consumption. I had a 7200rpm drive that would heat up to 90 degrees in my laptop and cause severe instability. I tried a 5400rpm, and was barely hitting temperatures around 60.

As for brands, I work in a computer repair place. Most of our failed 2.5" drives are either Hitachi, Samsung, Toshiba, or Fujitsu - we rarely see failed Western Digitals or Seagates, but they do pop up with smart errors every now and again.

In terms of capacities, all I can say is this: If the drive ever DOES take a poo poo, you'll sink a lot less money into recovering 100gb of pictures instead of 500gb of movies music and pictures. I can't vouch for the "shelf life" of the data on higher capacity drives, but 250gb seems to be the sweet spot at the moment for both cost effectiveness and storage space. (About ~$60.)

Have fun in India!

Otacon fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jul 29, 2009

Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


What the hell is this?

Reinstalled video drivers, but I imagine it's the lovely Dell provided Nvidia 7200GS. Only happens when a GUI popup happens (msconfig dialog, start menu, notification bubbles, etc.)

Only registered members can see post attachments!

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Otacon
Aug 13, 2002


Can't you just set the affinity to 1?

Open the game and start playing. CTRL-ALT-DEL to bring up task manager. Find the game's EXE (it's using the most processes) and right click to bring up the change affinity menu. Select only one core.

That's essentially doing the same thing, is it not?

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