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My friend has a Dell laptop that they dropped while it was on. When they picked it up it was completely locked up. They reset it, and upon rebooting Windows complained of some missing files (a blue screen I assume, I haven't had a chance to see it myself). THe quick and dirty answer is to just  , but how do I know the hard disk itself isn't damaged? Maybe a scratched platter? That could happen, right?Is running chkdsk enough to confirm if the disk is physically damaged or not? If not, is there a program that can? Can chkdsk be run from the Windows recovery console?
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May 25, 2007 23:32
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Associate Christ
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I have DD-WRT setup on a Buffalo G125 router. It is working just fine, but name resoultion takes a good 15-20 seconds every time I go to a new domain. This is painful. I have tried setting new name servers both in my OS and the router but neither seem to make a difference. How can I be sure that the new name servers are being used? Any idea why else it would take so long?
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Jul 7, 2007 00:52
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Just a quick question about wireless router security. Is it my understanding that I should be using WPA2 with AES. TKIP should only be turned on for compatability, right? Using AES+TKIP isn't adding another layer of security, it is allowing a slightly worse method to be used if AES isn't compatible with the client, correct?
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Jul 28, 2007 17:26
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I would like to be able to fall into a gentle slumber with sweet music wafting to my ears. To that end, I need a small, cheap, pair of speakers. Preferably something that doesn't sound like complete rear end, if that is possible. I would either plug it into a Macbook, an ipod shuffle, or my trusty Rio Karma that still works like a charm as long as it is plugged in. There are hundreds of such things on Newegg. The i-rock people, who make the keyboard below, have a neat looking design here. God knows what it actually sounds like! Do any of you have personal experience with a specific model that you could recommend? I usually listen to Electronic/Ambient stuff. Probably more ambient stuff in the bedroom when I am trying to sleep. I was also looking to replace the god awful $7.99 keyboard I bought years ago. It is a cheap, flimsy thing that is loud and some of the keys are starting to give up on me. I have been looking at two new keyboards on newegg: Small Kensington design Full design from i-rock Any comments? I like the laptop style keys. Again, nothing too fancy and I certainly don't need a new mouse. I don't really care about the layout, I figure I will get used to whatever I have over time.
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Jan 23, 2008 23:37
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Spatial posted:I'd bet on no. The drive is probably going to last longer for the simple reason that it's not doing anything, as opposed to spinning at 7200 RPM. Mechanical failure is the main reason for drive failures, after all, and less wear and tear on the drive can surely only be good. Don't they always say that the drive experiences the most wear when it is spinning up? If so, constantly turning it on and off can't be good. I won't make the car analogy for you since it is slapping us all in the face right now. I just looked up that google study on disk failure rates. It is pretty inconclusive when it comes it power cycles and a drives rate of failure. Their data set only includes results from disks that are in a server environment so they are on pretty much all the time. If a drive is being turned off and on a lot then it might be a sign that the computer it was in had other difficulties so it is hard to say that any drive failure in that system was solely related to the power cycles and not some other issue with the system. It is purely anecdotal, but all the drive failures I have had in recent memory have been when bringing up a system (powering up a drive). I have all my disks set to never power down and I leave the computers running all the time. I like to think of myself as an environmentally aware person so it pains me to do it. I am pretty good about making backups but I still tense up every time I hear a hard disk start to spin up.
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Jan 23, 2008 23:50
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I am a loving tard. I bought this because I needed more sata connections and I would love to use the esata connection with my external drives. In my eagerness, I failed to realize that my motherboard doesn't have any PCI Express x4 slots. My board has one x16, a few x1, and regular PCI slots. Doh. A quick look at newegg doesn't reveal any newer motherboards that have setups that are significantly different. There are boards that have two x16 slots, but then they all have 8+ sata ports and most have esata boards built in as well, so I wouldn't even need the expansion card. Are x4/x8 slots only found on server-class boards? Should I just buy a new motherboard instead? This card seems to be the regular PCI equivalent, but only two of the internal connectors are available if you use the esata ports, and the SI chipset it uses does not support hot plugging or sata port multipliers.
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Oct 26, 2009 20:17
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Mark Larson posted:You should be able to plug the card into your 16x slot. PCIe is electrically the same for all slots that are bigger than the card. You can also buy a 1x to 4x or 16x to 4x riser. The x16 slot has my fancy pants video card in it :/. This is what you are talking about? They state that it will make the card run at x1 speeds. Is that going to limit the read/write speeds, or is x1 already more than enough? If I get a card like that, that will mean I have put $80 into this. Not too far off from just buying a new motherboard. Not to mention, if I use a riser card the sata card won't be screwed down and one of the esata ports will probably be unusable. other people fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Oct 26, 2009 |
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Oct 26, 2009 21:16
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I replaced the motherboard in my system with a new "GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3P LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail". The only other new thing is the memory. The cpu/video card/hard disks/case/whatever are all the same. When I turn it on, I am presented with a screen that is completely pink, other than a green/yellow border. It is very strange and I have never experienced anything like it. Maybe it is some original thing the bios is doing to tell me something is wrong? I don't have a pc speaker, so I have no way of knowing if there is some beep code I am missing. The video card is an 8800 GTS. The cpu is a Q6600 (whatever the old quad core one is). This is very confusing. The manual and google are not giving me much help.
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Oct 30, 2009 18:55
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Nevets posted:Does the computer just sit there at this screen? Does it continue to boot up afterwards like normal? Does it continue to boot up but with weird colors / messed up text? This sounds dumb, but I switched the connector that the monitor cable was plugged into and it now works. Sorta. . . The first bios screen is displayed, showing the memory test, hard disk detection, etc. (press DEL to enter setup area), and it sometimes seems to freeze here for a minute, and then reset itself. Usually between the memory count and the hard disk detection. Something is really hosed here. One time in a million it will actually let me get into the bios setup without freezing, but even after loading the "safe" defaults, nothing changes. I have tried shorting the clear cmos jumper on the board and it makes no difference. Any ideas here? I have unplugged all the cables/cards on the board and reseated them once already. I guess I can try again?  I put my old memory in the board, and now it seems to be working fine. And now fsck is saying most every one of my partitions is hosed. loving gently caress. At least I have back ups lol.
other people fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Oct 31, 2009 |
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Oct 31, 2009 00:23
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I am going to give my old motherboard to my friend so he can have something more modern. It has a P35 chipset, LGA 775 socket. He does poo poo in GibbsCAM and other CAM programs, so I dunno if he needs something more robust to be happy doing that? The cheapest thing that won't completely suck please. Intel Celeron 430 Conroe-L 1.8GHz 512KB L2 Cache LGA 775 35W Single-Core Processor $39.99 Intel Pentium E5200 Wolfdale 2.5GHz 2MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor $63.99 Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 Wolfdale 2.8GHz 3MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor $117.99 Intel Core 2 Quad Q8200 2.33GHz 4MB L2 Cache LGA 775 95W Quad-Core Processor $149.99 Or something else? Also, I am pretty sure his old computer has built-in video, so we will need to get a new video card. I have no idea if a program like GibbsCAM requires a fancy video card, or if he can use something basic. Can anyone recommend something? Preferably nvidia. Thank you! ALSO! I bought new memory to go with my new motherboard. The motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128358 The memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231166 To be blunt, the memory doesn't work. It hardly ever gets past the bios when I try to use it. If I use the memory from my old board (as I am now) everything works flawlessly. I am about to RMA the memory to newegg. Can some one at least confirm that there is no reason that memory shouldn't work with the new board? I didn't buy the wrong thing, did I? Newegg will only replace it with the exact same thing. Thank you again!
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Nov 12, 2009 16:16
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I am lazy and instead of building my parents a computer, I bought one from Dell. I submitted the order a few hours ago, and already I realize that I have made a mistake! I "upgraded" them to a monitor with a DVI (and HDMI, actually) input for the low low price of $69, but I didn't check to make sure the PC actually had a DVI output. It just seemed like an obvious thing. Of course, now that I check (buried in the technical manual), it doesn't have a DVI port. Of course they can stll use DSUB, but that just seems wrong to me. The tech specs mention a PCI-E x16 slot, and newegg will sell me an evga GEFORCE 7200GS for $30, with loving DVI output. Now my only question is, is there any reason to use HDMI? It won't do anything to improve image quality (over DVI, right?), and they certainly are not going to be watching Blu-ray any time soon.
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Apr 17, 2010 22:53
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I have a D-Link skype adaptor that does not work with Windows 7 64-bit. A company called Zoom (the old modem people?!) makes an adaptor, the 5900, that has 32-bit Windows 7 drivers, but that won't help, will it (assuming I bought it)? I just went from Windows XP to 7 today, so I don't know squat about all this stuff. The computer I installed this on has an ancient Netgear router, which I am willing to replace if there are routers that have skype support built in? I just want to be able to plug a regular cordless phone in and use it for "skyping".
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Apr 25, 2010 00:58
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I am going to sell two compact flash cards to a gentleman from craigslist. What is the proper way to clear them off? Format them in the camera? The cards have had photos and even some pgp files that I would like to feel certain no one will be able to recover. Not that I think random people on craigslist are going to try to recover files from my cards, but if there is relatively simple thing I can do. . . ps. I have a mac and a linux computer, so please don't recommend windows software, thanks <3.
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May 21, 2010 18:56
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Why is my computer such a picky bastard? The motherboard is a "GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3P LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard." It has had two sticks of "GeIL Esoteria 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model GX22GB6400ESPDC" for years now, which came out of an older computer. When I bought the motherboard, I bought this: "G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-8500CL5D-4GBPK." But the MB would never boot with it. I never gave it much effort, and didn't even return the stuff. Today, for whatever reason, I tried again. Sure enough, the computer won't boot with the G.SKILL memory (one, the other, or both). No error, and video doesn't even initialize. The lights on the motherboard all light up, just like it does with a normal boot. I wish motherboards still had loving speakers. Just loving beep at me! All the bios memory settings are set to Automatic/standard, I am not trying to overclock anything. Anyway, what does work, is if I leave the GEIL RAM in the first channel, and put the G.SKILL in the second channel, but not the other way around. What the gently caress. Is there some technical reason it is behaving like this, or is there actually something wrong with the GSKILL memory?
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Apr 29, 2011 23:04
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You have got to be loving kidding me. I installed openSUSE on my computer using a livecd, completely erasing/repartitioning my main hard disk (sda). I reboot to finish the installation, and the computer stops indefinitely when detecting AHCI/SATA devices. gently caress! I know enough (or think I do!) to know that nothing openSUSE did could put a drive in such a state that the loving bios won't see it. Not being able to boot would be one thing, but literally stumping the bios is another! I guess I have a dead drive. . . I have tried a new sata cable, I have tried a different sata port on the motherboard, and I have tried a different power connector. No difference. The only notable thing is that when moved to a different sata port (was originally on the first port) the bios detects all drives and then stops at whichever port this drat drive is plugged into. Obviously then, I am ready to chuck this drive out the window and declare it dead, BUT when I plug it into an external SATA enclosure it works perfectly. Perfectly. What the hell is happening here? I am thinking I should format it and then try it again, but I am so convinced that that should not make a difference I am not going to do it. Yet.
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May 26, 2011 18:26
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Alereon posted:That's pretty weird, my only guess would be that the BIOS checks a drive to see if it's bootable at the same time it IDs it, and the drive is confusing it enough that it just hangs up. I'd do a full zero-wipe of the drive over the external interface, run a full manufacturer diagnostic on the drive (on general principle) and try formatting it again. Yeah, I guess I will have to format it, just to see who is crazy here. I can't run a fitness test on it though, until I can get this computer to boot with it installed. The fitness test software won't test a drive connected via USB. edit: Well I am thoroughly loving confused, because after formatting it (with no type of partition table) it works just fine in the original machine. What the gently caress. Now to install openSUSE again and see what happens, lol. edit: Ok, it is doing it again! Suse installed on the drive, and now my computer pauses indefinitely when it is detecting drives. What the gently caress. I have the drive connected via usb on my laptop, and it is working perfectly. SMART status is fine and it has passed some sort of SMART diagnostic tests without issue. Anything else worth trying here?! edit: I tried another install, this time with all my other drives disconnected. Whatever that changed (which should have been nothing!), it now boots properly with opensuse installed! Now I just have to plug those other drives back in. other people fucked around with this message at 20:36 on May 26, 2011 |
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May 26, 2011 18:55
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Ugh. There was a bad storm last night, and now my computer will not turn on. I know it is probably the psu, but I am just a bit stunned/confused. The computer was already off, and everything else on that power strip, and the rest of the house, works just fine. Is my old psu just sensitive?? Any chance there is a fuse in it somewhere??
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Jul 8, 2011 16:08
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Gothmog1065 posted:Have you done any of the PSU tests? Unplug everything but the DVD and do the jumper (Green to black) and see if it turns on? I removed the PSU, connected pin 15 to 16, and the PSU turns on. If I plug the ATX connector back in to the motherboard and hit the power button, nothing happens. Should anything happen at this point, or do I need to connect the 4 pin aux connector as well, or something else? Maybe my power button broke!!! Right guys? edit: no go with ATX and 8 pin aux connected
other people fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Jul 8, 2011 |
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Jul 8, 2011 18:05
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This is the PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139003 CORSAIR CMPSU-450VX 450W ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply Bought in 2007! This is my current MB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128358 GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3P LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard Is the ATX connector with that MB/PSU still current? Can some one recommend a new PSU that will work for this setup? My #1 consideration is noise! It has to be quiet quiet quiet, and turn on. Also, while I am at it, my current video card is an "EVGA 320-P2-N811-AR GeForce 8800 GTS 320MB 320-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card", also from 2007. I feel so old. Anyway, is it likely that I can replace this with something just as powerful (or more powerful :o ) that will make less noise? It certainly isn't a super loud card, but that doesn't mean it couldn't be quieter! Thank you! edit: Corsair PSU has 5 year warranty :o edit edit: I have an old asus P35 motherboard. I connected the 24 pin ATX, and an LED on the motherboard lit up. When I connect the power button jumper, the PSU fan spins up. Is this a sign that the PSU is fine, and it is the motherboard that may be dead? :/ other people fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Jul 8, 2011 |
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Jul 8, 2011 18:21
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Gothmog1065 posted:Possibly, it's hard to tell unless you have a full computer going. Can you test the old PSU on your new one (Even for a few seconds)? The only other PSU I have has a 20pin ATX connector, not 24. But all that might not matter now! After the PSU seemingly worked with the old MB, I tried it again in the "dead" computer, and I got smoke and an orange glow from the motherboard :/. here I put a red square around the area that got hot and smoked. I guess that means the MB is toast, eh? The lovely part is, that a new replacement board is over $100, even though it is an old chipset/socket. At least this is a solid answer.
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Jul 8, 2011 19:57
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Gothmog1065 posted:For future reference, it doesn't really matter. I don't really know what to do here. Buying an exact replacement board is going to cost $200 new, or slightly less used from ebay. The only 775 socket board with ICH10R that newegg has is some micro ITX thing that is out of stock, and it costs $120 to boot. zipzoomfly, buy.com, none of those guys have anything remotely useful. To buy a modern board would require a new cpu and memory at the very least.
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Jul 8, 2011 22:35
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Alereon posted:Are you actually running RAID? ICH10 also supports AHCI and all that, you'd probably have to settle for a cheaper board, but it gets you up and running again. Also, what CPU do you have? If it's a dual-core or Q6000-series, an upgrade may be worth it for you anyway. From what I recall, the base ICH9/ICH10 chips (the non-R ones) do not support esata hotplugging. But it has been a while. Google has only shown me one random forum post to "confirm" this. ps. I have a q6600 and 6gb of ram.
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Jul 8, 2011 22:48
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Rukus posted:I've heard good things about Microsoft's LifeCam series. Here's a 720p version that hits your budget bang-on: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826105359&cm_re=microsoft_hd_webcam-_-26-105-359-_-Product http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00372567A $20 bucks less at amazon :o
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Jul 10, 2011 17:24
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Gothmog1065 posted:For future reference, it doesn't really matter. I found this P45 board with ICH10R for $80 at a sketchy looking online computer parts place. To my amazement, it arrived in two days, with free shipping, and works like a charm! Ubuntu doesn't seem to be aware that the MB was switched out from under it! <3 linux. I only have one small complaint! The motherboard connections for power switch, reset, hdd light, etc. do not match the connectors in my case. The motherboard gives two pins for the power light, and my case has a three pin connector. Anyone aware of some type of adapter for this situation? Or a "blank" two pin female connector I can use to modify the case wire?
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Jul 14, 2011 02:50
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FCKGW posted:Get an exacto knife or something thin and small, pry up the tab holding the wire in the plastic pin array and move it over so they are side-by-side. Plug it in, it should work fine. Yeah, I can try that tomorrow. I'll have to cut the connector itself, as the MB only gives room for a 2 pin connector. EDIT: Also, can some one recommend a cheap UPS? I would just like to make sure that I don't have another motherboard fried due to lightening, etc. Something that could shut down the PC would be neat too, so some sort of USB/serial interface is probably a good idea. Newegg has a ton of them, some as cheap as $40, but maybe those are no good? other people fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jul 14, 2011 |
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Jul 14, 2011 03:00
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Hope I am asking this in the correct place. . . I am in Europe, traveling from the US. I have a cr48 laptop with me, first time taking it out if the country. What I now realize, is that unlike my previous laptop, it has a three prong plug on the charger. My adaptor for europe only takes two prong US plugs. Since the adaptor is so small, I can plug it into the two prongs of the US plug, ignoring the ground prong. Is this safe? Will it even work? All I know about plugs is that the bottom bit is ground!
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Jul 28, 2011 22:17
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Rawrbomb posted:Safe? Aguable, it won't be grounded but it will work. I am doing it now and it is charging. If the apartment burns down, at least I'll have some random person on the internet to blame instead of myself. Thank you!
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Jul 28, 2011 23:06
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Rawrbomb posted:From how stuff works, since I can't be assed to type that out. Great, now I feel bad. Thanks a lot.
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Jul 29, 2011 21:28
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I have a couple of silly questions since I put my computer in a new case. The new case has front panel USB 3.0 inputs that requires the use of some fancy 20-pin internal header that is new to me and my 4 year old MB. I would like to make use of them. There are lots of PCIe USB 3.0 adapter cards on newegg, but none seem to have this 20-pin header. Am I dumb/missing something? Does it have a name? If I get a USB 3.0 card, are there chipsets that LINUX would be more or less happy with? Does anywhere sell internal SATA cables that are less than 6" in length? Lastly, I have a geforce 8800GTS 320MB card which is a monster and sounds like a small jet. What is the cheapest modern NVIDIA card I can use that will be at least as fast? I just want something that is quieter! In the SA mart deals forum there is currently a $40 430 GT from amazon, but depending on where I look it is either about the same speed or a good bit slower than what I have, and it also apparently makes a decent bit of noise considering its small size.
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Jan 25, 2012 18:21
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Not in my experience. I've used every controller in drat near every distro, and performance and reliability have been absolutely terrible. Ugh. From some googling, it looks like it should work as of 2.6.31, but there is a bug with suspending so it has been disabled for the time being (as of October). Not sure if it is back in or not. http://forums.fedoraforum.org/showthread.php?t=258020 These guys hacked it back in, but that might be a bit much. Which is sad, because. . . Dogen posted:The header thing expects a motherboard, I've seen converters that turn the header straight into plugs that you can plug a front port into since the USB 3 header wasn't all that common, but not the reverse... http://www.koutech.com/proddetail.asp?linenumber=544 Finally found this PCIe card with the 20 pin connector and it uses the nice NEC chipset, as far as I can tell. Too bad it is sold out anywhere reputable. grumperfish posted:A 430gt would be significantly slower than your current card. It's not worth the $40. If you don't care about performance at all, it would probably be quieter than the 8800GTS at least. Thank you for the information. Why is a 460 wasted potential and why do you say not to buy a new one? Is it the latest/greatest so inflated in terms of performance for price?
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Jan 25, 2012 22:03
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JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:I have a fairly old setup, a Core2 Duo (E8500) in an Antec Sonata case. Stock cpu coolers are usually loud, as are stock gpu coolers. Check out the recommended coolers for your socket at silentpcreview.com . While larger fans can move more air at lower rpms than a small fan, that is only helpful if the large fan is turning slowly. spr also rates specific fan models. Tower CPU coolers are all the rage right now, using low rpm 120 or 140mm fans they can be near silent. Just make sure it will fit on your motherboard and in your case. Also, standard operating procedure is to have at least one intake fan at the front of the case and an exhaust at the rear. If you really only have the psu fan which is blowing out, fresh air is not being brought into the case very effectively.
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Feb 21, 2012 20:52
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My new computer won't stay on for more than ~30 seconds . i7-4770S cpu on a GA-Q87M-D2H motherboard with a Noctua cooler. Four sticks of Crucial Ballistix Sport for memory, and a Seasonic SSR-450RM PSU all in a Bitfenix Phenom case (stay away!!). I have removed all hard disks and disconnected all motherboard headers except for the power button. I can *sometimes* get it to turn on and go into the bios for a moment or two, but then it will seem to reset and go into a loop of the fans spinning up for a moment, then stopping, then spinning, etc, over and over until I pull the plug. Sometimes it goes into this loop as soon as I turn it on. Also, the whole time it is in this loop, the PSU fan seems to be constantly on. I have reseated the memory and the CPU/cooler are seemingly mounted perfectly... it is kinda a hard thing to gently caress up? If this were something shorting, it wouldn't turn on sometimes, would it? What have I done wrong here? edit: It seems to be working when not in the case and with a single stick of memory :/ other people fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 16:35
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BITCOIN MINING RIG posted:You're using the case standoffs, right? Does it stay running with 1 stick installed when in the case? The board may have a bad memory slot. The standoffs are all in the correct place. Everything works fine now that I have it back in the case. Who knows. In other news, the new hard disk failed a SMART self-assessment right out of the box :/. Thank god amazon makes returns so painless.
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Oct 26, 2013 21:41
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