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LloydDobler posted:My guess is tightening your gas cap will make it go away. If not, let me know. While I haven't tried that, I filled up last Sunday and have been driving around without a problem 'til today. I'll give it a shot when I leave for work.
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Feb 22, 2007 21:37
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The fuel filter in my 94 Chrysler Town & Country is due for replacement. The Haynes manual I have says to jumper one of the injectors to ground and +, to dump the residual pressured fuel into one of the cylinders. This doesn't sound right to me or my grandfather, so is this right? if not, how would I do it? Lean Six Ligma fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Feb 22, 2007 |
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Feb 22, 2007 22:31
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Pixelated posted:The fuel filter in my 94 Chrysler Town & Country is due for replacement. The Haynes manual I have says to jumper one of the injectors to ground and +, to dump the residual pressured fuel into one of the cylinders. Disable fuel pump by pulling the appropriate fuse, then start the car and run it until it stalls. On the fuel rail there should be a little cap that you can remove to reveal a schroeder valve that you can press to let out the pressure from the fuel rail. Keep a shop rag there, you don't want fuel spraying around your engine bay. At least, thats how it was on my 94 saturn when I did it. Yours may be similar, or completely different 
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Feb 22, 2007 23:00
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That worked! There was a lot of fuel left in the rail, and we panicked when it dripped off the rag ind inbetween the valve cover and intake plenum and started BOILING, but besides that and the stupid clamps, and the headache I have now from rolling around to get tools, it was pretty easy. Thank you very much for the help.
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Feb 23, 2007 00:39
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Pixelated posted:That worked! There was a lot of fuel left in the rail, and we panicked when it dripped off the rag ind inbetween the valve cover and intake plenum and started BOILING, but besides that and the stupid clamps, and the headache I have now from rolling around to get tools, it was pretty easy. No problem  Luckily gasoline evaporates incredibly quickly so you and your garage won't smell like gas for too long.
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Feb 23, 2007 01:23
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Looking at car audio, what are some brands to consider these days for head units, amps, and speakers? /edit: I guess what I'm mostly concerned about is time alignment worth worrying about anymore (especially on higher end head units). I have it in my old Alpine and I loved it. Full Collapse fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Feb 23, 2007 |
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Feb 23, 2007 01:57
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When I brake in my 1998 Buick Regal GS I hear a loud gravely noise from the general direction of under my hood. My question is what do you think is wrong and how much will this cost me to repair?
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Feb 23, 2007 18:17
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Uthor posted:I've got CEL today while I was cruising down the road. The guy at Advanced Auto Parts said that it has something to do with the emissions controls and I should take it to a mechanic. Otherwise he wasn't too helpful. Is there anything easy/cheap I can do before dropping money on a mechanic? Seafoam? LloydDobler posted:My guess is tightening your gas cap will make it go away. If not, let me know. Uthor posted:While I haven't tried that, I filled up last Sunday and have been driving around without a problem 'til today. I'll give it a shot when I leave for work. I tightened the gas cap (was already tight, but to make sure) and reset the CEL. So far so good. Hopefully it was some sort of fluke.
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Feb 23, 2007 18:31
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High Altitude Hair Stylist posted:When I brake in my 1998 Buick Regal GS I hear a loud gravely noise from the general direction of under my hood. My question is what do you think is wrong and how much will this cost me to repair? New brake pads and rotors most likely. $100 at brakes plus if the rotors don't need to be replaced. More if they do.
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Feb 23, 2007 21:01
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High Altitude Hair Stylist posted:When I brake in my 1998 Buick Regal GS I hear a loud gravely noise from the general direction of under my hood. My question is what do you think is wrong and how much will this cost me to repair? Go get new brake pads ASAP. If you wait top long (quite likely it's already too late) your rotors are going to be hosed and it is going to cost A LOT more than a simple brake job.
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Feb 23, 2007 23:33
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New tire/spare tire questions: If I have to get a new tire (because of a flat), and the rest of the tires have 80% tread left, will that be ok? What if the rest of the tires only have 50% or 20% tread left? And I know that usually you'd want the tires on the drive wheels to be as similar as possible (e.g., on a FWD you'd put the 80% tires on the front and put the new one on the back), but what about with an AWD system?
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Feb 24, 2007 14:43
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Here's a spectacularly dumb one; 2004 F150 XLT. The fuel door closer thingie broke. How do you get that assembly OFF of there to replace it??!? Thanks for the help on my BMW as well - I got the bavauto parts and am working on them as we speak!
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Feb 24, 2007 20:53
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Man, I'm posting a lot on here lately. My shifter is starting to feel pretty loose, especially going into 5th/Reverse (2003 Cavalier 5 speed). It doesn't like to rebound too much from pushing it to the right and it wobbles when in gear. I think I remember someone mentioning that it could be a loose linkage somewhere. Where would I look to find this? If I jacked the car up and got underneath, would I see it, or would I need to disassemble something on the inside of the car? What would I be looking for in the first place?
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Feb 24, 2007 21:13
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What is the difference between a big block and a small block engine? I'm reading Wikipedia and I feel like I'm missing something. A big block is: "A big-block engine is a North American V8 in a family of engines which generally have greater than 5.9 L (360 cubic inches) of displacement; factory engine sizes reached a peak of 8.2 L (500 cubic inches) in Cadillac's 1970s range." And a small block is: "A small-block engine is a North American V8 in a family of engines which generally have less than 6 liters (360 in³) of displacement." This is pretty straightforward. But then: "There are Small-block and Big-block engines. These families differ in respect to the distance between cylinder bores, but not necessarily in displacement since the latter is defined by bore and stroke. Whilst the big-blocks have been less commonly used in recent years, the small-block families have grown in displacement and have now reached a level that was reserved for big-blocks in previous years (up to 7 litres of displacement in a Corvette). Even though the technology has greatly changed, basic specifications have been the same for fifty years[1]." OK, so you can have a 7 litre small block engine because the advance of engine technology allows you to build cylinders much closer together then you could in the 60s. But does that mean big block/small block is just an old marketing term, and all modern V8s (regardless of size)are small blocks? If the cylinder bore is the essential detail, could you have a 4L V8 big block? Could you describe the Mercedes 450SEL 6.9 as having a big block? These are all unimportant questions, but I always wonder about then when I hear people talking about old engines from the 60s.
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Feb 24, 2007 21:29
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Quick question I've got some new brake rotors and they seem to be covered in some sort of greasy film. I'm pretty sure that it shouldn't go on the car covered with greasy stuff, so will brake cleaner be suitable for removing it?
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Feb 25, 2007 00:09
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Idiot race posted:Quick question Yeah, that coating is probably for rust prevention. I'd say go ahead and clean it off.
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Feb 25, 2007 00:21
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I just got a scuff on the bumper of my white '93 miata thats about 2 by 4 inches. Would a do-it-yourself kit like this do a decent job?
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Feb 25, 2007 00:53
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This guy just rear ended my 06 Elantra at about 5 mph. So far, the only damage seems to be a hole in the bumper's fiberglass where his license plate bolt/screw punctured it. Can body shops fill a hole like that? If they do, will it last the life of the car? Or should I make him get me a new bumper.
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Feb 25, 2007 01:49
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Okay, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to cars, because I don't have my licence yet (though am taking lessons). The stock CD player just crapped out in our 2002 Mitsubishi Magna (Series 2). I'm guessing it'll be cheaper to buy a new head unit than get it repaired. Not looking for anything fancy, or to upgrade the speakers or anything. How easy is it to install a new stereo? I presume it'll just involve removing part of the dash surrounding it and undoing the brackets/cables. Analogous to installing a new hard drive I guess? I don't think I'll bother paying for installation unless you really recommend it. I have allen keys, screwdrivers etc and built my own computer, so I'm fairly confident I can do this myself. We'll probably head over to JB Hifi later this afternoon to have a look at what they have in stock. Although I hate the sales people, they generally have decent mid-range stuff.
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Feb 25, 2007 01:56
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NashAsh posted:New tire/spare tire questions: I've always been told to buy a minimum of two tires at a time. And to keep those two either together in the front or rear.
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Feb 25, 2007 02:00
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modeski posted:How easy is it to install a new stereo? I presume it'll just involve removing part of the dash surrounding it and undoing the brackets/cables. Analogous to installing a new hard drive I guess? If you buy the stereo and all the needed adapters, it should just be plug-and-play. However, getting the dash off is a royal bitch. Go to Best Buy or Circuit City, buy your stuff there, and have them do a free installation. I know Best Buy has a policy that they will undo any installation for the life of the stereo, also. If you're just getting a cheap head unit, I think that's the easiest thing to do.
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Feb 25, 2007 02:00
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Uthor posted:If you buy the stereo and all the needed adapters, it should just be plug-and-play. However, getting the dash off is a royal bitch. Go to Best Buy or Circuit City, buy your stuff there, and have them do a free installation. I know Best Buy has a policy that they will undo any installation for the life of the stereo, also. If you're just getting a cheap head unit, I think that's the easiest thing to do. I'm in Australia, so we don't have Best Buy or Circuit City, but I know JB do do installations. If they'll do it for free or a decent price, and can do it today, I might as well take them up on the offer while I do my other shopping. My wife's out with the car at the moment, but I'll have a look at the dash before we go.
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Feb 25, 2007 02:04
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Bibliophobe posted:Can body shops fill a hole like that? If they do, will it last the life of the car? Or should I make him get me a new bumper.
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Feb 25, 2007 02:27
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Guinness posted:Go get new brake pads ASAP. If you wait top long (quite likely it's already too late) your rotors are going to be hosed and it is going to cost A LOT more than a simple brake job. gently caress, how much do rotors usually run? I think I waited too long to get the break pads replaced 
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Feb 25, 2007 06:14
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Nebakenezzer posted:What is the difference between a big block and a small block engine? I'm reading Wikipedia and I feel like I'm missing something. A big block is: Modern engines do not really fall under these categories. A Ford 4.6 is neither a small nor big block because there is no easy comparison like there used to be. Only Chevrolet's engines are still classified like this, because the LS series of V8s has the same dimensions as their classic small block. To answer the other questions, you could have a 4-liter big block, but it would be a pretty bad choice unless you were trying to build an indestructible utility engine. A Mercedes engine wouldn't be either one because Mercedes' designs weren't done in the same fashion.
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Feb 25, 2007 06:49
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LloydDobler posted:Is it the "check oil" light? or just the "oil" light. Like the light with a little oil can on it? That doesn't mean check oil, it means the oil pressure is low.
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Feb 26, 2007 02:46
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What type of gas mileage can I expect out of a V-8 6.2l engine in a K-5 Blazer? I have no experience with diesel, but I am looking to get a Blazer and really like the diesel.
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Feb 26, 2007 05:01
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Atticus_1354 posted:What type of gas mileage can I expect out of a V-8 6.2l engine in a K-5 Blazer? I have no experience with diesel, but I am looking to get a Blazer and really like the diesel. If you buy it you'll hate diesels forever. Just a warning. Also diesels don't use gas.
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Feb 26, 2007 05:12
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Why would I hate it? I was also just using gas mileage out of habit. I'm pretty sure that you new what I meant.
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Feb 26, 2007 05:59
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Dark Solux posted:Recently my power steering pump has been making an awful "nasely" whine that increases in pitch with RPMs. I checked the fluid, it was at the fill line so I filled up to max. Didn't help. Sorry to repeat myself but no one had any answers yet I'll ask my Steering & Suspension teacher what he thinks... bah POS car.
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Feb 26, 2007 13:11
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along the lines of the oil question above, is all oil equal? I have a 93 Ford Taurus with 226,000 miles with a slight oil leak. Now I keep tabs on my oil and make sure to keep it at safe levels but for an engine so old should I be buying a special synthetic oil or is the cheap oil just as good?
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Feb 26, 2007 21:42
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SpitztheGreat posted:along the lines of the oil question above, is all oil equal? I have a 93 Ford Taurus with 226,000 miles with a slight oil leak. Now I keep tabs on my oil and make sure to keep it at safe levels but for an engine so old should I be buying a special synthetic oil or is the cheap oil just as good? Also, I assume a (base?) Taurus doesn't have a very performant engine that would require synthetic oil, but don't take my word for it.
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Feb 26, 2007 21:56
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struan87 posted:If you're just replacing oil that's leaked out, use the cheap stuff. It won't be in there long enough to really get you into any trouble. I agree with the fact that the oil leaks but if I were to get the oil pan replaced, thus stopping the leak would it make a difference then? No the engine is only a 3.0 V6 but for it's age it runs well and with all the "special" oils out there for "high mileage engines" I was just wondering if any of them actually make a difference.
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Feb 26, 2007 22:30
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SpitztheGreat posted:I agree with the fact that the oil leaks but if I were to get the oil pan replaced, thus stopping the leak would it make a difference then? No the engine is only a 3.0 V6 but for it's age it runs well and with all the "special" oils out there for "high mileage engines" I was just wondering if any of them actually make a difference. I don't want to steer you wrong. Hopefully someone else will know.
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Feb 26, 2007 22:33
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I replaced the power steering pump in my brother's girlfriend's 98 Buick Century Limited and when I topped off the reservoir and started the car the power steering worked fine. After turning the car off for a while we went back out to it and it didn't work anymore but I figured that there is air in the system because the steering fluid is foamy. Would air in the system cause the power steering to not work? I'm about to go over to her place and bleed the system but I'd like to know if anyone thinks it'll work.
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Feb 27, 2007 00:44
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two_beer_bishes posted:I replaced the power steering pump in my brother's girlfriend's 98 Buick Century Limited and when I topped off the reservoir and started the car the power steering worked fine. After turning the car off for a while we went back out to it and it didn't work anymore but I figured that there is air in the system because the steering fluid is foamy. Would air in the system cause the power steering to not work? I'm about to go over to her place and bleed the system but I'd like to know if anyone thinks it'll work.
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Feb 27, 2007 01:46
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Mad Dragon posted:You should have filled the reservoir to the top, cycled the steering wheel lock-to-lock a few times with the engine on, and checked level again. Chances are, the level went low. Hopefully, you didn't damage the new pump. I did do that. After looking at it, it turns out that it's slowly leaking from between the reservoir and the pump which is getting fixed tomorrow so all is well.
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Feb 27, 2007 04:20
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quote:Recently my power steering pump has been making an awful "nasely" whine that increases in pitch with RPMs. I checked the fluid, it was at the fill line so I filled up to max. Didn't help. if you're sure it's not the belt, it's probably the bearings inside the pump. They can get worn out quickly if the belt is overtightened. Same goes for water pumps, alternators, a/c pumps, etc. SpitztheGreat posted:No the engine is only a 3.0 V6 but for it's age it runs well and with all the "special" oils out there for "high mileage engines" I was just wondering if any of them actually make a difference. None of them except for synthetic make any real difference. Just buy the cheapest oil you can in the proper weight.
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Feb 27, 2007 04:46
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bizwank posted:Yeah it's the little oil can, the only oil light I have. My oil sensor is a $45 part, so I'm hoping to test it and my oil pressure as well before replacing anything. I have a compression testing kit, is there some way I can use that to test oil pressure and avoid having to buy a new kit? This will be a moot point in a week when I get paid, but I have to drive the car to and from work until then so I'd like to find out if there's a real problem that could be causing engine damage. Unfortunately if the sensor isn't bad then you've been running your engine with low oil pressure (momentarily) and that could mean engine damage. No way to really tell until the bearings start knocking. A compression tester can't be used to test your oil pressure. The only way I can think of to test oil pressure is to hook up a real oil pressure gage to the same spot as the sensor. I hope the sensor is just flaking out.
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Feb 27, 2007 09:14
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aventari posted:if you're sure it's not the belt, it's probably the bearings inside the pump. They can get worn out quickly if the belt is overtightened. Same goes for water pumps, alternators, a/c pumps, etc. I was thinking it was the bearings because the belt is just fine, and hasn't been removed or adjusted (well, has a self tensioner) since I did the alternator last summer. Sure sounds like bearings. Guess I'll drive it till it seizes...
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Feb 27, 2007 16:13
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