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Uthor posted:My drivers' manual never actually tells me to change my transmission fluid...ever. I'm assuming it should just be changed as the clutch wears out. The table for the an automatic lists it at 30k miles. Gear oil is generally used in manual transmissions, and transmission fluid is generally used in automatics. Some manuals spec ATF although they're very, very different fluids.
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Feb 22, 2007 16:36
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 12:45 |
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What the hell is on the back of this transmission? It's a TH350 attached to a 454
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May 14, 2009 17:35
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Comrade T-bone posted:I have a 2007 2WD 5.3L Silverado. You'll have to take your TPMS sensors out of your stock wheels and put them on your new ones. Or just live with the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message and warning light all the time, like I do. 20" wheels were an option on our trucks so I wouldn't worry about it.
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Jul 1, 2009 21:01
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The Third Man posted:On the topic of idling, my '95 miata has started shimmying a little bit between 700-1000rpms at stop lights. It's not really that bad to the point of stalling or revving worryingly high, but if it's indicative of a problem I'd like to take care of it, so what might be causing this? As in the idle keeps going up and down? You should have some sort of IAC or ISC (idle air controller, or idle speed controller) that is causing it. Typically you can clean it out and the problem will go away, or replace the part. It could also be something like a sticking/dirty EGR valve or intake leak.
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Jul 2, 2009 16:45
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Dradien posted:Another tire question from me: If it pulls to the right, something is wrong. Rotate the wheels to slow that tire wear down, though. visuvius posted:Are ProSport and Autometer gauges crap? I'm trying to find a oil pressure gauge and a matching boost gauge. It seems to be either under $70 Prosports and Autometers or $200 Blitz, Apexi's and Greddys. Autometer and VDO Make great, cheap gauges. Stay away from poo poo like SunPro, though.
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Jul 2, 2009 16:49
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FogHelmut posted:Badge engineering - what are the major differences? Is it any more than a few body panels and interior parts? No, but before the 80's there were. For example, you would get a Pontiac engine in a Firebird or Grand Prix.
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Aug 20, 2009 20:44
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angryhampster posted:MY GIRLFRIEND just inherited an abused and beaten '99 Grand Am with a harem of electrical issues. After a can of Seafoam, the 3.4 runs brilliantly and pulls hard. The car shined up pretty nice as well, just with one coat of some decent over-the-counter wax: It's an overhead valve motor, you don't change the timing chains in them. Well, you, can, but that engine will have poo poo the bed long before you need to.
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Aug 24, 2009 00:52
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Raluek posted:I've got a weird one. My car ('65 Impala, 327, MSD ignition, Edelbrock 4-bbl) has been running weird and idling like poo poo, so I did the pull-each-plug routine to see which one was causing the problem. Turns out, it's only running on four cylinders. The ones that don't affect anything at all: 3, 5, 2, and 8. That's every other hole in the firing order, strangely enough. Tried cleaning the contacts inside the cap, didn't seem to affect much. I tested 3 for spark and compression, both positive. Anyone got a good idea? I'm hoping for "well, that's textbook ________" but if it's not obvious then I guess I'll start a thread. Is this worth that? Define running weird and idling like poo poo. And quit pulling spark plug wires. Check your timing, check for vacuum leaks, you may need to re-adjust or rebuild the carb. It might be as simple as an idle screw or mixture setting.
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Aug 26, 2009 14:29
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Tytanium posted:What else can I look for or do to fix the missing problem? Take it to a shop and have them take a look. You're not going to want to hear this, but you might need a new H pipe, and possibly a new catback if it's all custom hacked up poo poo. I had to take my 2002 to the shop because I just couldn't get the exhaust manifold to seat on the H-pipe. The brand escapes me, I want to say UPR.
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Aug 28, 2009 03:14
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johnny sack posted:How much of a difference would this: Not that much. Save your pennies for something from Maximum Motorsports. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 If shocks/struts don't say Koni or Bilstein, they're not worth putting on your car.
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Aug 29, 2009 00:02
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BabyJesus posted:Does anyone have experience with GM Syncromesh MTF? My 2007 Civic Si is nearing 30k, and despite having the 3rd gear TSB performed (which should have included new MTF) at around 18k, I'm still going to change the MTF. Syncromesh is good stuff.
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Sep 15, 2009 18:49
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The orange stuff is rust and dirt and sediment, that's why you are supposed to flush the engine/radiator every so often.
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Sep 16, 2009 00:17
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Mooecow posted:My POS beater (1990 Chevy corsica 2.2L i4) decided it didn't like running on all four cylinders. Cylinder 3 isn't sparking. I checked the plug wire and its fine, so I'm assuming the ignition coil is toast. Tee hee that's a coil off a V6 car, so it's already been replaced once.
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Sep 16, 2009 22:30
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ab0z posted:How many special tools will I need to rebuild a 4L60-E transmission out of a 1995 buick roadmaster? Torx plus bits, feeler gauges, dial calipers, bushing drivers, emory cloth, scotchbrite pads, multiple snap ring pliers, trans assembly lubricant, a torque wrench that will operate as low as 8 ft pounds, several types of pliers and screwdrivers and a pretty good magnet. Thats what comes to mind as far as tools and supplies goes. http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/631230-basement-4l60e-buildup-photos.html
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Sep 28, 2009 16:25
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Frances B Cat posted:Just got a warning today that the tint on my front windows is too dark. Is there any way I can remove it myself? It looks like I might be able to peel it off if I start at a corner, but then I wonder if I'd have to take the door panel off to get to the bottom parts of it. Leave it on until you get a ticket. That poo poo is a motherfuck to get off.
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Oct 3, 2009 16:05
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Kynetx posted:Bingo. Leave the goddamn tint. There are only two scenarios I can think of where you would get a ticket since it's rarely a primary offense: C: You're in Michigan and the State Police pull you over for it, they're total dicks about it. They give you a ticket (fine, no longer a fix-it ticket) and beat you up under a highway overpass.
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Oct 4, 2009 18:14
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Sponge! posted:Could be winter driving safety. I know there are times where I'll have to roll my passenger window down to see out to make a turn safely before my defrosters have had plenty of time to melt the windows. Ice scraper. FogHelmut posted:Say you have directional tires, so rotating them can only go front to back, since the left tires stay on the left side and the right tires stay on the right side.  You're rotating wheels, not tires. You'd have to do a cost/benefit to see if paying to mount+balance your tires would be worth it.Sponge! posted:What's the cheapest method for shipping heavy parts around the US? I'm looking at PTO units on e-bay for the logging truck, and to ship from IL to PA UPS wants $150 some and Fedex wants $110. There's gotta be an easier way? People were shipping transmissions via Greyhound for a while.
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Oct 8, 2009 18:27
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Uthor posted:I'm used to my motorcycle, where the small volume means it mixes well right away and I can just do wheelies to mix it further.
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Oct 24, 2009 01:28
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KickStand posted:My ex girlfriends Ford Focus has a major vacuum leak from a hose that goes into the back of the engine block and I am not sure which hose it is for her to order a new one. I cant find any pictures online and shes at work so Ill provide a nice mspaint. Take the hose to autozone and they'll cut you one to replace it
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Nov 4, 2009 21:20
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vote_no posted:I've got a '98 Mustang 4.6L which has been having difficulties starting up, and which has been getting worse as it has gotten colder. At around 10F, if you gave it gas it would start up. Now at -10F it's very strange: everything will sound normal and I can even rev the engine, but the moment I let off it kills just as it would have if you'd only turned the key. My gut tells me it might only be tangentially related to it being cold outside; I did manage to get it started before at around the same temperature. I had a car a while ago that didn't start at -25F, but it was an entirely different noise. It just sounded pathetic, no vroom. I did buy a $20 frost plug heater but apparently installation requires draining the coolant system. Clean/replace the idle air control valve. It may have a slightly different name depending on that particular car. It's also possible that the coolant temperature sensor is reading the engine temp incorrectly and therefore the computer isn't giving the engine enough gas.
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Jan 5, 2010 01:42
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the posted:I had my oil changed on my Mazda RX8 at Jiffy Lube (I know, I know, but it was too cold and I was overdue). Check for oil dripping on anything that gets hot.
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Jan 19, 2010 17:25
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Doctor Zero posted:Ah. I only have experience with accidents in Michigan, and it's a no-fault state. What that means is that you only get $450 if you don't have comprehensive and you're not at fault. When did they change it from $500?
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Mar 5, 2010 17:35
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Otacon posted:What possible damage can I do if I ignore this canister problem? Almost none. It's almost purely and emissions-related issue.
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Mar 9, 2010 01:27
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b0nes posted:Is it possible to get an after market nose that looks like the shelby GT500 on a Mustang GT? It is purely for aesthetic purposes. I like the "slants" on the grille and lights. You could check with places like Cervini's
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Apr 5, 2010 14:42
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Piano posted:Can someone give me a rough outline of whats involved in buying a car from a person? Like the title and such. Varies slightly by state. Look up your Secretary of State or DMV website for the exact procedure.
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Jun 2, 2010 13:43
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Shouldn't control arms be made of tubular, boxed, or stamped steel, instead of just plate steel? Click here for the full 1024x680 image.  Click here for the full 1200x797 image.
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Oct 11, 2010 13:09
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Rubiks Pubes posted:I have a 2001 Pontiac grand prix with the non-supercharged 3.8 v6. When I start the car cold, I get a loud ticking from the engine bay and the car runs rough like it's a light misfire or something. It goes away once the car warms up. I checked for tripped codes using my superchips Cortex and no codes were thrown. Any ideas? The car only has 52,xxx miles. Gummed up roller lifter that takes a little bit to fill with oil?
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Oct 11, 2010 13:10
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SynMoo posted:Battery. I'd check the battery cables first, they could be corroded all to hell.
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Oct 11, 2010 13:44
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Rubiks Pubes posted:So, how bad of a fix is this? I've got new valve cover gaskets already (the stock ones suck and can lead to fires). Pull intake manifold, valve covers, and loosen the rocker arms so you can get the pushrods/lifters out. They're like $8 each, times 12 to replace them all.
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Oct 12, 2010 14:50
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DrKennethNoisewater posted:I understand that tires are designed as a part of the suspension, and, because of this, the same size tires should be put onto a car that it was designed for. My question is: does this apply to the speed rating as well? Both **MY GIRLFRIEND** and I need new tires within the next 5,000 miles, and both of our cars default to V rated tires. I would much prefer to save $100 and get H rated if that is possible, but if not, I will bite the bullet and get the V rated. H goes up to 130 mph, V goes up to 149mph How fast is your car and how fast do you plan on driving it at top speed? Also, H rated tires will not magically explode once you reach 131 mph.
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Oct 12, 2010 19:54
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Splizwarf posted:Speed is not the only part of the rating, the other part is rubber composition (well it's the same thing but bear with me, the max speed is the irrelevant part) and if you run the wrong rating you'll have a different contact patch, different patch adhesion, a different coefficient of friction, and a different slip angle. In other words you won't stop, accelerate or corner right, and if your car is fancy and has a computer running the suspension, the suspension controls are going to be working with bad data. Hydroplaning will work differently too. The tire rating is just for speed. Other aspects of the tire design are going to affect those other things. Of course your tires rated for higher speeds are going to be designed differently with more performance-oriented characteristics.
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Oct 13, 2010 18:37
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 12:45 |
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Is there an LSx thread or somewhere I could read up on the Pontiac G8? I had a GTO so I'm sort of scared to get another Aussie Pontiac.
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Jan 20, 2014 17:16
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