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Quick question-I'm towing a (RWD) Volvo 240 with a manual transmission for a considerable distance on a dolly this weekend. If the rear wheels will be on the ground, will it be sufficient to leave the transmission in neutral, or are there further measures I should take to ensure that I don't destroy the transmission?
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Sep 30, 2009 20:03
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A 1968 Dodge Coronet almost certainly doesn't have a timing belt. You probably have a timing chain instead. If it broke, it would certainly cause a no-start condition, but I'd be surprised if that was the root cause of whatever issue you're having. They're usually pretty robust. Make sure that you have fuel and spark before ripping into the engine any further. A timing belt (or chain) is attached to your crankshaft and camshaft and turns the cam so that the valves open and close at the proper times during the engine's rotation.
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Aug 4, 2010 06:56
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-Inu- posted:Any ideas as to A) why the gently caress it won't crank and B) what the gently caress with the electrical nonsense. Also, Could the alternator be bad even though the car never shut off until I had to come to a stop? Not sure about what specific electrical nonsense is going on, but it definitely sounds like your alternator died.
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Aug 14, 2010 17:22
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It is indeed a bead, and you'd make one with a bead roller.
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Sep 29, 2010 08:51
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Skychrono posted:What happened, and what should I do? Did I break it by putting in the stabilizer like it told me to? Did a valve break and I'm running on three cylinders? Will a mechanic rape me if I try to get it fixed? Should I bite the bullet and get a new car? Will my car explode tomorrow? You have too much fluid in your crankcase, at the very least. The lubrication system in your car is designed to work with a certain amount of oil (in your case, about 4 quarts). If you go over that capacity, the crankshaft (the big rotating part at the bottom of your engine that the rods and pistons connect to) can become partially submerged. When that happens, it's wasting energy (that it otherwise wouldn't expend) on aerating the oil in your oil pan. Not only does your engine work harder as a result of this, but the oil can begin to foam. When that happens, your oiling system becomes less effective, because your oil pump is not very good at pumping foam. As a result, parts of your engine may not get all the oil they need. Now, for the Lucas stuff, which is a substance designed to thicken your oil. Going off the recommendations on Lucas' site, you should have used this at a 20% mixture for every gallon of oil at most, since an engine with 130K on it isn't likely to be that worn, if it's been at all kept up. Since your car has a 4-quart oil capacity, this means you should have used aout 20oz of the Lucas stuff, not 2 quarts (assuming you needed it in the first place). The problem, then, is twofold. Not only do you have too much oil in your engine, but it's considerably thicker than it needs to be. What that means is that your engine is now working to turn in a heavier fluid in addition to the conditions outlined in the first parargraph, so it's expending a lot more energy to turn, and probably can't turn as fast as it would if you had lighter oil. Imagine swimming in maple syrup rather than water; that's what's going on in your engine right now. What you need to do, then, is go get the oil changed again with normal oil (like 5W-30 or 10W-30), and see if the noise returns. If it does, you could switch to a heavier weight oil (like 5W-40 or 10W-40), or use the proper amount of the Lucas stuff. Before you do the latter, though, make sure that you aren't leaking or burning any oil by checking your dipstick every so often. I've owned cars that would make valvetrain noise if the oil got a little low; topping it off would clear it right up. This, of course, assumes that nothing major has been inflicted on the engine as a result of all this. Godspeed. 
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Nov 22, 2010 |
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Nov 22, 2010 20:37
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Skychrono posted:Wow! An impressively helpful answer. From searching Google, it sounds like lifter tick and valvetrain noise are common in older GM 2.2 engines; it's probably nothing to worry about, although if it's really bad, you might need to have your timing chain replaced. Check this video and some of the comments: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28IRZ9l2MCE Does it sound like that? quote:2. Is there a way to check that this is the case? If so I'll hit a quick lube on the way to work - they should be able to see if I have way too much oil and rule out (after a replacement) any oil-based problems, right? I have no idea what foaming would look like. Pull your dipstick and see what the oil looks like, and where the level is. quote:As it is, it looks like spending $50 to replace the oil with high-mileage oil is the best bet here, since I can get some piece of mind without spending $500+ to open the engine and poke around. I hope there's no valve issue, or that I broke something, but if my newfound lack of power is because I have maple syrup oil then I'm excited to try to fix this. It's unlikely that you broke anything, but you want to get whatever's in your crankcase out soon.
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Nov 23, 2010 07:56
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e: nm
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 02:17
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cormorant posted:Is it a universal rule that you should change the belt tensioner when changing a timing belt? The engine in a 1996 960 is definitely interference, so the tensioner (and water pump) should absolutely be replaced at the same time as the timing belt. If either part goes, the timing belt will get munched and you'll be looking at a very expensive head/valve repair, if the engine can be repaired at all.
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Apr 5, 2011 04:56
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Sadly, those are the textbook symptoms of a bad heater core.
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May 2, 2011 02:23
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Try "(model name) coat hook."
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May 2, 2011 03:39
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General_Failure posted:Can someone steer me in the right direction? Please? Based on the symptoms you describe, it sounds like you have a sizable vacuum leak; if the noise is coming from the plenum, it might be the gasket for the intake manifold. If there's a bunch of unmetered air bypassing the intake in that fashion, it could certainly cause the issues you describe. Unmetered air is the enemy of EFI systems.
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May 3, 2011 17:49
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Bobulus posted:tl;dr : The less fuel I have in the tank, the harder the car is to start, and the problem is getting worse. It sounds like your fuel pump is about to kick it. If the in-tank pump is weak or dying, it might be having trouble picking up enough fuel to supply the engine until it runs for a bit, especially when the tank is low. Which leads me to the next point of advice: quit running your tank dry. Fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel passing through them and/or the fuel around them, and when you empty the tank, you cause the pump to work harder and heat up, which can shorten its lifespan considerably.
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May 5, 2011 06:30
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Generally, the in-tank filter is a "sock" of sorts that's attached to the intake of the fuel pump, and it should be able to be replaced separately from the fuel pump.
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May 7, 2011 01:40
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kinkster posted:I'm a teenager and all of my friends describe me as a "lovely driver". I'm not /horrible/ and I haven't gotten in any accidents in the two months I've been driving but safety is still a concern for what car I drive.. The main safety feature of a 240, especially if it hasn't been well kept up, is that it's slow.  An '88 240 doesn't have airbags, ABS, or any special safety features besides seatbelts. Keep in mind that the chassis has its roots in a car designed in 1966 whose last major update came in 1975. They received airbags in 1990 and ABS in 1991, but that's as good as they get. They were reasonably safe for their time, but compared to most cars of the 90's, I don't think that they can measure up.
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May 12, 2011 23:57
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CharlesM posted:Supposedly the Volvo does not have a motor installed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0NZwg25qPA The Volvo doesn't fare well versus a Yaris, either.
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May 13, 2011 21:11
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kinkster posted:I picked up a 1988 Volvo 240 DL and Id like to upgrade the audio system.. but I don't know where to start. Is there a way to check what kind of wiring it has? Depends on what you mean by "what kind of wiring." If all it has is the speakers in the front doors, you'll have to run wiring to the parcel shelf if you want to add speakers back there. As far as actually wiring in the stereo, it depends on whether someone used an adapter harness or just hacked off the connector. Easiest way to check is to remove the square blanking plate next to the stereo (it just snaps in) and unscrew the radio frame. Slide it out of there and see what's going on. If the connector (which is a B-shaped, 9-pin sort of thing) is still there and an adapter harness was used, just clip the leads going to the old stereo and solder/crimp/whatever the corresponding wires from the new harness on to it. If there's just a rat's nest of crimps and wire nuts, things will be considerably more interesting.
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May 18, 2011 23:22
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Shaocaholica posted:So this might be another topic altogether but the act of cooling down a cylinder in a direct injection engine is not for performance? Not really. Cooling the cylinder has the effect of reducing the amount of certain combustion byproducts (namely, NOx), which is beneficial from an emissions standpoint.
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May 26, 2011 07:20
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Rabble posted:Dear AI, I never thought this would happen to me. There's already been plenty of good advice about this, but make sure to be especially scrupulous about the nose of the car-it's a one-piece affair, so if it's been run into anything, chances are that it hasn't been repaired the "right" way. Run a fridge magnet over it and see if there's anywhere it doesn't stick.
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May 31, 2011 16:50
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Geek USSR posted:I have a 2007 Honda Civic SI sedan. I've noticed a lot of small markings on the very front of the hood where the nose bra would go. I'm looking to purchase one online but all the Honda accessory sites say they have been discontinued. Anybody know where I could get one or an alternative? Or, would the coup model fit on the sedan? I'm only looking for the half bra, not the whole. Just get some protective film put on there. It'll work just as well and be much less obtrusive.
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Jun 9, 2011 16:54
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That's the turbocharger. The hissing sound happens when it spools up, and the fluttering noise happens when the air being compressed by the turbo is vented to atmosphere.
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Jun 21, 2011 |
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Jun 21, 2011 18:48
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Does anyone know where I can buy a connector like this?  I need a couple of them for a fuel pump, but exhaustive searches on Napa and Google haven't really turned up anything like it.
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Jul 19, 2011 23:24
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Looks like it's a Toyota Tundra. 
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Aug 22, 2011 08:07
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astrollinthepork posted:Volvo. The plastic seems clean, it's just gray. Does that actually mean it's just dirty and not faded? I may give it shot. I was leaning towards painting but I didn't know if it would turn out looking painted as opposed to being black plastic. Black 850Rs are notorious for clearcoat failure, for some reason, so it's quite likely that that's what's going on with your car. As for the trim, it was a dark gray color from the factory, so unless it's faded really badly, then it's probably OK.
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Oct 18, 2011 08:30
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Geirskogul posted:Here's a dumb question/situation I have. My dad has a 1983 Ford Ranger 2.0l, manual. After it sits for more than 10 hours or so, it takes a bit of cranking (with cooldown breaks for the starter in-between, I'm not crazy) to get gas up into the carburetor to finally let it start. Summer, winter, etc doesn't matter. Is it a mechanical pump of some sort that pulls the gas up? Is there supposed to be some sort of check valve in the fuel line that keeps gas from draining back down into the tank? All of my experience with fuel pumps is with FI vehicles that have return fuel lines, so I'm at a loss here. Those engines have a mechanical fuel pump, but I'm not sure whether there's any sort of valve in the line that keeps fuel from draining back (or if the pump serves that function). Have you tried pumping the accelerator 2 or 3 times before trying to start it? Generally, there's enough gas left in the carb that it'll help it to start.
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Oct 19, 2011 04:00
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You don't want to block the flow of the lines completely. Also, "pinching" them probably won't seal them very effectively-I don't know what the output pressure to the feed line is, but it's likely that you'll end up with fluid spraying everywhere if you go that route. If you have a decent transmission shop in your area, I bet they'd be willing to bend some new lines for a couple hundred bucks at most. By the time you go through all the trouble to hack a solution, you'd probably be better off doing it right.
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Nov 28, 2011 19:13
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Nighthand posted:As a follow up to this, my parents got me a bottle of Prestone "Stops Leaks" stuff, a liquid with pellets in it. Would this be safe to add, and if so, would I do it directly into the radiator or into the overflow tank? Most stop-leak stuff has the potential to screw up other things in your cooling system. If you plan to keep the car for any length of time, it's better to get it fixed the right way.
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Dec 24, 2011 19:20
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Are your headlight lenses fogged at all?
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Jan 25, 2012 03:43
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This is more an oddly specific question than a stupid one, but does anyone know the purpose of the black allen-head screws near the fuel outlets of this variety of Bosch CIS fuel distributor? I'm guessing they're related to the volume of fuel that each injector receives, but I haven't been able to find a conclusive answer by Googling. Like so: 
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Jan 29, 2012 02:25
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NOTinuyasha posted:1991 Mercury Colony Park - What would cause stalling at low speed? Low idle? Usually I end up stalling out 4-5 times when I do a hardcore parallel parking job. Sounds like the idle air control valve might be dirty, sticking, or otherwise malfunctioning. If you can clean it out, I'd try that first; if that doesn't fix it, you might want to get a new valve or make sure that the throttle position sensor is working properly.
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May 27, 2012 23:33
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KozmoNaut posted:I've been watching the Victory by Design series and looking at all kinds of vintage machinery made me wonder how old-style tachometers work. The ones that don't sweep smoothly but rather jump about every half second or so. Chances are that they're cable-driven and entirely mechanical.
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Jun 6, 2012 01:00
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Insurrectum posted:
Looks like the ball joint broke and the CV axle separated. I'd budget for a few hundred bucks to get it fixed.
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Jun 26, 2012 05:55
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Insurrectum posted:So this morning we got a tow truck, and the second he starts lifting the front tires... all the transmission fluid starts leaking out the pan. I imagine that budget will have to be increased. There's a big hole in the transmission that the CV axle slides into. If the axle is removed, the transmission fluid will leak out, as you're now well aware. The shop will have to top off the transmission when they install the new axle, but it shouldn't take that much fluid, and ATF isn't that expensive.
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Jun 26, 2012 19:22
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redjenova posted:Never posted here before, looking desperately for help fixing this problem because ahh it gets real hot in my car sometimes now. Does your Accord have automatic climate control (i.e., if you place it in Auto mode, does it maintain the temperature you set without further intervention?) If so, it sounds like the interior temperature sensor or the control module might be faulty; I'd bet it's the former, especially if it exhibits the behavior you describe no matter where you have the temperature set.
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Oct 16, 2012 08:58
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). This hasn't affected it in any way I can tell. Of course it's a lot worse at this point and way harder to ignore, half the time it will blow freezing cold air and the other half you'll turn the car on and it'll blow nothing but really hot air at you no matter what you do.
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I don't know if it's an exact match, but SEM lists "Shale" as one of the options for their Color Coat, which can supposedly be used to recolor and restore vinyl, door panels, and the like. I know that a lot of Volvo guys have gotten good results when using it to restore interior parts. It's part number 15793 according to their website.
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Jan 4, 2013 02:39
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In the next week or two I'm going to replace the front wheel hub assemblies in a 2000 Chevy Suburban. Should I replace the bolts that hold the hubs to the steering knuckles, or am I OK if I reuse the old ones? If it's the former, where can I find them? None of the online parts retailers seem to have a diagram that includes the bolt, and I can't find a part number either.
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Apr 7, 2013 |
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Apr 7, 2013 05:04
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:I replaced my front brakes on my 2005 Vibe, and both sides seem to be rubbing a bit when I took it out to test after finishing. I always buy new rotors when doing brakes, so there shouldn't be any issue there. Looking around with Google, it looks like some pads rub a little when new, but how common is this? I've done my own brakes for years now, and I've never heard this before. Did you bed in the pads?
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May 5, 2013 21:45
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Leanfat posted:How few are too few miles on a let's assume generally viewed as reliable used car if you need it to be reliable and don't want to wrench on it yourself? Depends. Is it a blue car or a red one? (we need more info)
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Sep 4, 2013 15:51
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Slavvy posted:Looks like they do. And it's somewhat interchangeable with a VW oil cooler. Unless your car is a different engine? An NA 740 shouldn't have an oil cooler-they were only original equipment in the turbo models. My guess is that it's the head gasket-there aren't many other places for coolant and oil to intermix in that engine, and the blocks are strong enough that a crack is really unlikely. Fortunately, it's not a difficult repair and the parts are pretty cheap. I'd do a compression and leakdown test to be sure, and pressure-test the cooling system if possible.
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Oct 18, 2013 16:03
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keanureeves99 posted:Turns out it's got a valid transferrable smog cert and registration til august at least, at which point I'll probably be in a state where it doesn't matter, but research tells me the EGR can be frustrating to deal with because it indicates only a general problem with the system and not a specific issue. This is a tough call. ES300s are common as dirt and you should be able to find one with fewer problems for $3000. That said, from Googling it could be fairly easy to fix depending on the specific code it's throwing-this thread on ClubLexus documents a common repair.
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Feb 8, 2014 16:36
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 00:47 |
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Sweevo posted:Yes. Airbags don't just go off from being handled, or knocked around a bit. They have a dedicated control unit that needs to send the right signals in the right order or nothing will happen. Admittedly this can't be generalized from, but an acquaintance of mine had the passenger airbag in his Volvo S70 deploy thanks to a static discharge while he was dusting the dash. Apparently there was a run of cars that were missing a ground strap between the airbag and the dash; there was a recall to have it added. His car wasn't serviced under the recall and he found out the hard way. Airbags are generally safe but it's best to handle them with care.
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Mar 17, 2014 23:33
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