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So I got a ticket for doing 90 in a 55. I read "Pay No Fine" and the other one in the FAQ, and I was wondering if there was anything I could do with these bits of info: I admitted to doing 90 (Even though he gunned me at 88, and I know how stupid this is, please don't remind me), he marked me down as 70 in a 55 because I was honest and nice to him. On the ticket, my DOB is 1912, when my real DOB is 1992. On the letter I got from the court, I think it said my DOB is 2012, but I have to find it before I can confirm that. Other than that, is there anything I can do? I'm basically looking at a plea of reduction and 2-4 points on my license, and huge insurance increases. Did I gently caress myself when I admitted it?
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Nov 23, 2008 16:40
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So, first manual car. 1995 Nissan pickup, 4cyl 2.4, 4x4, red except for the front drivers side piece. But hey, $1100. So, when I'm driving, and I get up to about 3k+ RPM, I hear a buzzing sound. Kind of like a vibrating cell phone makes on a coffee table. My dad's taken it for a ride and said that it was nothing to worry about, but I want to make it go away anyway. Is there anything I should look for to be loose? It sounds like it's coming from under/behind the dash, in the center.
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Dec 2, 2008 03:57
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I think I just get the noise while accelerating on the road.
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Dec 2, 2008 07:46
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Ok, so about a month ago, I was going to school, and I turned on my truck, and as usual, the radio (lovely aftermarket) lit up. When the radio lights up, it's not "on", but I know it at least has power. So for some reason, I guess just because my ride is new to me, and because I hadn't pressed the button before, I pressed the AC button. It lit up green, and my radio died. And then I pressed the AC button again to turn it off. Since then, my radio has been dead. I finally took a look at the fuse box the other week, and I replaced 2 of the fuses, on that said "Audio Amp" and another that said "Radio/Air Con". No cigar. I guess the fuses were just fine. Anyway, my dad tells me the stereo probably has an inline fuse since its aftermarket, so I read the directions for the unit, and it turns out its one of those kinds that needs 2 little "keys" that slide in to pull out the box. Well, there's no little "keys" in my truck. How the hell do I get this off, what kind of part will I probably have to replace, and should I just get a new stereo? Someone popped this Sony in with 2 speakers in the back, but the quality is still garbage. I don't know much about stereos, I figured I'd just have a friend of mine help me pick out and install them.
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Dec 19, 2008 17:58
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It doesn't sound easy, but I'll give it a go. I'm not sure that they'll fit between the unit and the space it rests in, but I'll be back soon with results.
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Dec 19, 2008 19:19
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Well, the coat hangers didnt work at all. I unscrewed 3 screws on the unit underneath the faceplate, and tried to pry the whole thing out. Only one of the coat hangers could fit, on the left side. According to the owner's manual, there's a "protective collar" presumably underneath the faceplate, and to the extent of my puttering, there is nothing like it on the unit. I'm beginning to think the owner's manual isn't even for the same unit. The faceplate appears the same in the manual, but between the "protective collar" and the lithium battery that appears to slide into a little shelf on the faceplate (that isn't actually there irl), and the nonexistant fuse that's supposed to go possibly behind the faceplate, I'm pretty frustrated. I'm thinking I'll just rip the whole sucker out, and buy a new one. Maybe I'll take pictures of all this nonsense, and you guys can mull this over with me.
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Dec 20, 2008 03:45
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Yes, AWD is much better on snow than FWD. Yes RWD is much worse on snow than both.
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Dec 20, 2008 18:43
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When shifting with a manual transmission, do you generally give it gas at the same time as releasing the clutch? It makes things smoother, but I don't know if that's bad for the clutch or anything.
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Jan 3, 2009 23:24
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Why would I put it in neutral when downshifting? I guess I go through neutral, but I don't stop there. And why would I match RPMs there and not while accelerating? I'm usually using the engine to slow down when I'm downshifting. I don't want to open up this debate again... but jeez. I wish i could take a video of myself driving...
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Jan 3, 2009 23:52
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When I'm driving my old nissan pickup, and I go from, say, 1st to 2nd, unless I let out the clutch reallll slow and nice-like, the front end dips and bounces. But if I give it a little gas just as the clutch is disengaging, it goes into the gear nice and smooth-like.
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Jan 4, 2009 00:01
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Alright, electric question: I have a cheap lovely Sony CD player (I've told you about it before), a model you've probably seen, I've heard of it in about 3 other vehicles. Anyway, a while back, It was on (getting power at least) and I decided to hit the AC button. The AC light goes on, the unit goes off. Since then its been off. I finally got it out with a friend's help, and I took it to a place in town where they sell/fix/whatever car audio systems. The guy there looked at it, laughed because it was a Sony, then checked out a couple things and proceeded to make it turn on. He told me something I don't remember about getting power from the antenna, and not bothering to plug it in next time. Well, it still doesn't work. My dad looked at it, we deduced that it was getting power, so we don't know what's wrong with the unit. I know the unit works, I just saw it working the other day. So we try out this old dusty tape deck from my mom's old Rav4, connect the power wire, and find out we're not getting power anymore. What the hell? I have no electrical knowledge, but my dad has enough (I think) to understand and deal with this kind of thing. Should I take it back in to the shop and see what that fella can do again? He seemed kind of jerky and impatient last time....
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Jan 4, 2009 19:49
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Can another Ninja get help with his electric work too?
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Jan 5, 2009 04:36
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My already rotted exhaust system broke apart the other day. Now my truck is super loud. Everything should basically be fine until I get a new pipe, right?
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Jan 24, 2009 21:10
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So I've got more questions about my 95 hardbody. I want to squeeze more power out of the engine. I haven't given this truck the once-over yet, but I figure it wouldn't hurt to replace the air filter to start with. What other kind of things can I upgrade for cheap that will give more performance (and probably better for the MPG and engine in general)? Bear in mind, this truck has 178k miles on it, I pretty much plan on driving it until it craps out. So, no big upgrades.
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Feb 17, 2009 16:43
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hippynerd posted:I dont know if there are any easy mods that would help, but in general, if you want your car to last (and this one sounds farly worn...) you should just do a good job maintaining it (make sure all your fluids are clean and at the proper level), your timing is set good, and your filters are in good shape. So if I got say, a K&N air filter, it would cause extra wear? That's the kind of thing I'm asking about, little engine bits that could do a better job than they are currently doing, if that makes sense.
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Feb 18, 2009 18:33
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Yeah, as long as there's nothing impeding your movement (incline, objects on the ground). You apply the brake, but the vehicle in D, let off the brake and your car will move.
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Feb 18, 2009 20:37
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So my truck makes a nasty sound when I get up to about 3k rpm and higher, and it worries me. It sounds like if you say "inginginginginginginginging" as fast as you can. It sounds like hard objects vibrating on a hard surface. The truck is a 95 nissan hardbody, 2.4 4x4, as if you don't all already know. So how much poo poo could this cause in the future? So far, it's just a noise, but the truck has 179k miles, and it's the only vehicle I have.
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Feb 28, 2009 06:45
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TheFrailNinja posted:So my truck makes a nasty sound when I get up to about 3k rpm and higher, and it worries me. It sounds like if you say "inginginginginginginginging" as fast as you can. It sounds like hard objects vibrating on a hard surface. The truck is a 95 nissan hardbody, 2.4 4x4, as if you don't all already know. bumping this from 4 pages back
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Mar 16, 2009 04:45
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Gotta be careful what you mean when you say km. 250km is 250,000 miles. 250,000km is 250,000 kilometers.
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Mar 22, 2009 00:41
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So my dad took my truck out for a ride to hear the rattle it's had. He thinks it's the speedometer cable. How likely is this? I checked the exhaust heat shield, and sure enough it was missing a bolt, but we shoved a piece of bamboo inbetween, and assumed that it would stop any rattling down there. I couldn't find anything on google about rattling speedo cables in nissan hardbodies...
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Mar 25, 2009 05:38
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So I've got this Red 10 fuse in my truck that goes into a slot called "Radio/Air Con" but every time I try to use the AC at the same time as the radio (which is always receiving power while the truck is on), it blows the fuse. Also, the fuse to my interior lights mysteriously blew also. I just fixed them all and it was so nice for a while to have the truck light up inside when I opened the door... So what should I look at next? Should I just accept the fact that I will never get AC?
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Mar 29, 2009 16:52
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1995 Nissan hardbody (2.4, 5 speed, 180k miles)
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Mar 29, 2009 17:11
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Molten Llama posted:While a short as mentioned above is likely, let's not overlook the obvious: Is it supposed to be a Red 10 fuse? Yes 
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Mar 30, 2009 02:48
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What should I know about the Mazda MX-6? From what I've read, it's quick little car that handles great, basically a sporty Probe. Are they reliable? I like the look of them and there are a few in my area for sale. To give you an idea of what I'm looking for, I've been scouring craigslist and local classifieds for 240sx, Integras, Stealths, older Supras... something smallish, quick and cheap. It's hard to find 240sx's and Integras that haven't been riced/molested...
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Jun 16, 2010 00:42
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I heard the MX-6 handling is great, too. And the ZX-2 is ugly as gently caress. You mean the Escort, right? Or is there a Probe ZX-2 I don't know about?
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Jun 16, 2010 02:22
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I haven't driven either, but from what I gather an MX-6 is a lot faster than a ZX2... Besides, I'm not going to be ricing this up. I said I wanted one unmolested, I intend on basically keeping it stock. If I buy ANYTHING at all, it would be a sound system upgrade. Also, can we open this discussion up to the other cars I mentioned? I'm scouring NY/Mass/CT craiglist for: -MX-6 -240sx -Dodge Stealth/Avenger -Celica All-Trac (pipe dream) -Integra Or any other small & quick 90's cars. Anything else I should be looking at? TheFrailNinja fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jun 16, 2010 |
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Jun 16, 2010 16:25
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http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/1756307940.html Any reason why I shouldn't scoop this one up THIS INSTANT? My budget is supposed to be about $2500, but this is a little different. There's another red one (on rimzz) in about the same condition for $2850. My brother and my dad have been working on an older 300zx (89?) and it's got me hard as a diamond for late 80's imports.
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Jun 17, 2010 16:26
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How can I determine that? I guess I can ask him to take another picture with a note in it... or look into the mentioned carfax report. Some things are too good to be true.
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Jun 17, 2010 16:35
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What happened to the guide to selling cars? All I remember is "clean it up, fix cosmetic issues, take nice pictures" and I want to know more. I couldn't find it in the resources guide or like 8 pages back... Also, in buying a used car, is a "new clutch" something to worry about? My dad shoots down every single car I find on craigslist. My budget for a new car is <$3k, and I don't mind something that needs this or that, but he seems to think that every thing I pick out is junk for one reason or another. Is a replaced engine/tranny that much of a red flag?
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Jun 21, 2010 16:46
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That seems steep even for a dealership... I would estimate that a private party transaction would look more like $3500. I guess you're putting all those "bells and whistles" up against 133k miles.
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Jun 21, 2010 19:43
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Continuing with the engine braking theme, is it okay to downshift an automatic car to slow down? I feel like if I just use the brakes to slow down an automatic, I have to use twice as much as a stick... and I generally hate using the brakes, especially coming down from like 60 to 0 on the state and county highways around here. It feels kind of awkward to downshift an automatic pickup because it bumps a little bit, but in a smaller automatic car with the shifter in the center it feels better.
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Jun 26, 2010 16:59
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Desterado posted:http://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/1825808830.html I would say yes. My brother picked up an 85 300zx ($1100) a couple of weeks ago, ripped off the top of the motor, replaced $5-600 of poo poo, and now it's road legal. The only thing I would be weary of is the word "upgraded". I guess you could just call the guy and get the details of the situation.
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Jul 5, 2010 18:30
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http://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/1826267101.html My own syracuse CL question: What do you think of this car? I called the guy up and talked to him, he told me that the tach doesn't work and the power locks don't work but everything else is solid. No body rust except a little on the muffler. I wasn't sure if the motor had been swapped from a 3000gt, he said that it depended on the year whether or not it was labeled Mitsubishi or Dodge. I think it looks like a good deal. If it's as clean and as solid as he says and it appears to be, I'll offer $2400 for it, I don't want to go much over $2500. It's just that 140,000 is getting to be a lot of miles...
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Jul 5, 2010 18:46
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I have some questions about lifting trucks. I'm 18 and I live with my folks, my dad is very knowledgeable on cars and trucks and I think he can fix pretty much anything. He's always been against modifying cars in any way, and I've always been interested in modifying cars. So I want to know all about lifting trucks. I googled it up and didn't come up with much, so I want to know all about how it affects handling, gas mileage, general wear on the chassis, etc. Specifically I'm looking at buying a 95 4x4 hardbody just like one I used to have, except with lower miles and a more solid frame. I would only want to lift it maybe 3" and bump up the tires an inch or two, mostly I just want the tires knobbier rather than bigger. What is the difference between a suspension lift and a body lift, pros & cons, and does lifting a truck necessarily mean that parts are going to wear out quicker? Does getting bigger tires mean finding bigger rims to fit them on? If I only intend to get a body lift OR a suspension lift, which one should I get? Which one is better to have alone? Most big lifts I see are a combination of both. I hope that my questions are pretty clear. I can't find a guide to this anywhere on the net.
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Jul 11, 2010 19:14
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How do you clean off salt oxidation from alloy rims? I'm talking about the little white spiders that don't scrape off easily. And are "Alloy" rims basically aluminum, or basically magnesium?
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Jul 14, 2010 05:13
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Looking to eliminate steering wheel shake at 50mph+. It mostly goes away when I'm turning, and gets worse when I'm braking. Does that narrow it down? The previous owner said it would need some work on the rotors, I think. Car is a 99 Galant GTZ, 110k miles
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Jul 22, 2010 16:36
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More problems with my 99 Galant. Now I have a radiator leak. I've been smelling coolant at stoplights for a couple of weeks but didn't think much of it. Turns out the top of my radiator (plastic) has a crack in it. So I bought a $6 bottle of Permapoxy plastic weld and patched it up according to the directions. Still leaking. I don't know if it was applied wrong, if it burst, or if I just neglected to cover the entire crack. I'm going to give it a second and probably third try before I get a new radiator, to make sure that I'm doing it right. So my question is, a local autoparts store priced my radiator at about $270, but I found one on ebay for $66 shipped, and another on radiatorwarehouse.com for $97 before shipping. This is a 6G72 SOHC 24-valve 3.0 V6, 99 Galant GTZ. Should I be spending almost $300 on a radiator, or can I find one for <$100? Are the cheap ones scams? The ebay one has a 14 day return policy...
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Aug 13, 2010 17:48
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There's a lot of debate, but the way I understand it you can always leave the car in gear going down hills. The motor+transmission are more than capable of acting as brakes as you coast down a hill. Remember to always take your foot off the clutch when you're not using it. I don't mean let it out and engage it, I mean take your foot away from the clutch when you're driving on the highway, for instance. Another thing I HATE that most people do is rev the engine way up and then gradually let the clutch out over the course of 3-5 seconds. I like to let the clutch out first and then only give it as much gas as it needs once the RPM drops a little. Basically get the clutch engaged smoothly AND quickly, without dropping it or revving the engine way up and letting it out for 5 seconds.
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Aug 13, 2010 21:02
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I posted this problem quite a few pages back and didn't get an answer. I have a 99 Galant GTZ with a radiator leak. The top plastic part has a hairline crack that I tried to "Perma-poxy". It lasted about a week, I tried it twice going for broke on application the second time around. My dad called a local autoparts store and they priced my radiator at $270. Yikes. I've found radiators on eBay for $30 and on a "radiator warehouse" kind of site for $100. Do you guys have a go-to place for radiators? I really don't think I need to be spending $300 on a radiator
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Aug 29, 2010 19:19
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 22:35 |
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thelightguy posted:Rock Auto has them for around $80-90 depending on your engine. Fast, cheap shipping, too. $94 shipped, awesome thanks!
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Aug 29, 2010 19:43
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