|
What would cause an exhaust valve to crack and stick open like this?  No obvious damage or marks on the piston. Rest of the valves seem fine as well.On a GA16i Nissan engine with about 127k miles. 
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2013 07:23
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:01 |
|
|
some texas redneck posted:That looks like it ran lean for a bit, or inhaled something it shouldn't have. Is that a crack in the head next to the plug as well? Indeed it is. Just got word back from the machine shop, they aren't exactly sure what caused it to break like that. Filled that piston's chamber with oil to see if one of the seals had gone and broken off, but, still seems to be perfect as no oil went through. Valvetrain looks alright according to them too, so, maybe it was a lean condition. Going to take apart the throttle body and clean it out along with the intake manifold in case either were blocked/dirty. Also turns out that I wasn't actually burning coolant, as the head wasn't warped beyond a small amount from unbolting it (Which is normal, right?) according to them. Was just throwing out unburnt, vaporised fuel mixed with engine oil instead  Getting them to replace the destroyed valve, and do a valve job on the rest along with skimming it.Whilst it's there though, would it be worth the money to get the head ported and polished? Plan to replace the camshaft with a better euro-spec one, and already have the entire exhaust system replaced if it matters.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 1, 2014 01:11
|
|
|
Would anyone know if Nissan offers any sort of origin certificate? Looking for one that says when my car was made, day it left the factory, and where it went to be sold and such. It's for an 80's era car, and wanted to make a story of where it's been for car shows. Hoping for something like this: http://automuseum.volkswagen.de/index.php?id=12&L=1.
PhoenixWing fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Mar 13, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2014 03:25
|
|
|
Anyone know what sort of place would repair a fibreglass car hatch? My Pulsar's Sportbak is all fibreglass and has a stress crack developing on it where it meets the hinge and I want to fix it before it gets worse. The local body shops I've tried don't seem to have any experience working on fibreglass and wont take it on. Haven't tried a marine repair place yet, but, can't imagine I'd get a much better response there. Located in the Sacramento, CA area if anyone knows of somewhere.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 15, 2014 07:41
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:For now you should take a small drill bit and drill a hole at the end of the crack so it doesn't continue to spread. I'll probably just swap the standard hatch back on for now, not quite brave enough to drill into it
|
|
#
¿
Nov 15, 2014 07:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:01 |
|
|
Could anyone recommend a place to rebuild a rack and pinion in Northern California? Mine is leaking quite badly from both bellows, and the teardown process in my service manual to change the seals makes it look quite difficult. A friend has tried replacing his twice (Same car as mine, and both were claimed to be remanufactured with new seals) with the ones available at AutoZone, and found they leak almost immediately. Tried the dealership, and they were quite uninterested in fixing my existing one, and said they couldn't track down a Nissan reman unit either. Car is an '89 Nissan Pulsar NX if it matters.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2015 03:54
|
|