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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnag1aKszis Is this a loose belt or something worse or is it impossible to tell? It starts when I crank it, and if I give it a little gas the noise speeds up as the engine speeds up. This just started a couple of days ago, but the AC has always made a noise that sounds similar to that, but only when the AC was running and I accelerated quickly. 01 2wd LT suburban 5.3L V8, around 140k on the odometer. I'm due for an oil change too. PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 13, 2011 |
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Nov 13, 2011 18:35
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:35 |
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I put 5w-20 in my 5.3l 01 suburban instead of 5w-30 cause I'm dumb and didn't notice. Will I be ok?
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Mar 30, 2013 18:11
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As far as tires go, my suburban needs 4 new tires. I hardly drive the thing. Are used always a bad deal? I got burned years ago buying the cheapest tire but don't want to dump a bunch of money into this vehicle. I also need an alignment too I guess.
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Mar 31, 2013 21:27
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Hell I don't think the trans fluid has ever been changed on my suburban. That's definitely next on my to-do list.
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Apr 1, 2013 17:15
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Googling around it seems a lot of people suggest to not change transmission fluid if it's never been done. I'm assuming that's misinformation but now it's making me nervous.
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Apr 1, 2013 18:43
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Bubba posted:How feasible is it to get a working car for around ~500 USD in the states? I am thinking of buying one whilst I spend 6 months on exchange over there... has anyone (from Australia/wherever) done this before? What are my chances of getting a reliably working beater for that price? You'd probably be better off with one of those rent-a-wreck places. Not sure how the insurance works but you'd want to use a credit card for sure to rent it.
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Apr 4, 2013 16:55
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drat dude that's more than a little bit low
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Apr 4, 2013 21:50
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A giant post: 95 4runner sr5, v6 4wd. wife has had it for about 18 months. 4 grand from the dealership, probably not the best buy ever but hey, it's 4wd and North Mississippi, it shouldn't be hard to sell when the time comes. The transmission has been acting funky the past couple of months, especially when it's cold early in the morning. 1. Why the hell does the needle bounce so loving much: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBNFFMtK_TE 2. It won't go into overdrive most of the time. We took it to a shadetree type guy and asked him to change the tranny fluid. After looking at it, he said it would be a waste of money as he noted that it wouldn't go into OD and the guy he referred us to would have to drop the pan anyway to diagnose it. Didn't charge us a dime. I'll definitely use him again. We haven't had time to take it in to where he told us to take it, it's been sitting in the driveway for a week or so, but today I drove it up and down the highway to get a couple of clips to show y'all what's going on with it. loving shift already!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4z42LMY0a7I switching OD on/off has no effect: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rptWgBS9cH8 turned around, everything's nice and warm now, OD works! OD button makes it shift down like it's supposed to! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH62P_Vwj3A I've changed the oil on my suburban (once, last weekend, I like this working on car stuff now), cleaned the throttle body with seafoam, added wiper fluid, and stripped a lugnut trying to change a flat. That's about the extent of my wrenching experience. Two questions I guess: 1) is driving this thing making it worse? 2) any idea what's wrong/what the fix is? I'd rather not dump a bunch of cash into this thing if I can help it and don't mind changing filter/fluid but I'm definitely no expert on this stuff. e: the only problems we've had with it is that it liked to run hot. the radiator place seems to have fixed that problem though.
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Apr 6, 2013 03:03
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VelociBacon posted:Could just be a transmission speed sensor. google/youtube tells me this isn't too terribly hard to replace. It also looks like that could fix both the speedo and the OD issue?
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Apr 6, 2013 03:38
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VelociBacon posted:Could just be a transmission speed sensor. Maybe this is a dumb question but what's the difference between a transmission speed sensor and a vehicle speed sensor? E: basically what makes you think TSS instead of VSS? The TSS is about 1/3 the cost of the VSS so I'm hoping you're right. PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 15:52
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Uthor posted:I need to do an oil change in a couple of weeks on my GTI. I need oil that meets the VW 502.00 spec. Whenever I go to Autozone, there is always only one type that matches it (Castrol Black Edge 0W-30 or, more frequently, Mobil 1 0W-40) that goes for $9/qt (almost $10/qt after tax). That is a lot when you need six quarts. http://mobile.walmart.com/m/phoenix...369?type=search Around $25 for 5 quarts of the Mobil1 synthetic at Walmart. Got 2 jugs for the accord in case they jack up the price.
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Apr 7, 2013 02:55
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DrPain posted:Overdrive on your 4runner will not engage till the engine is up to temp. Its a quirky "feature" of the 2nd generation runners. A little less than halfway on the temp gauge. I noticed in your video that the temp gauge was reading cold on the freeway. You got the radiator replaced? Check your thermostat, fan clutch, and coolant temp sender if its taking more than 3 minutes to heat up. I own an identical truck of the same vintage, and can tell you way more than you ever wanted to know about them. It wasn't a replacement, I think they may have replaced some sensor or something though, ill have to find the receipt. This issue was occurring before that work was done. It's got 219,3something on the clock. I think you're exactly right though, I just drove it across town and OD worked well after it warmed up. Not sure about gas milage other than 'not so great'. Wondering if this is even 'a problem' at all.
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Apr 7, 2013 02:58
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Uthor posted:I don't think that meets the VW 502.00 spec... poo poo, my bad-- I think this does though: http://www.walmart.com/msharbor/ip/...=mweb:undefined I'll check and see how much it is when I go tomorrow to pick up some oil for the 4runner.
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Apr 7, 2013 03:30
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Capslock Holmes posted:poo poo, my bad-- I think this does though: http://www.walmart.com/msharbor/ip/...=mweb:undefined  And it's the official oil of NASCAR to boot
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Apr 7, 2013 15:33
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So both of my older vehicles have sketchy maintenance histories, and I'm wondering about the transmission fluid on both. One is an 01 Suburban (maybe 150,000 or so), the other is a 95 4Runner(219,000 or so). I'm pretty sure the Suburban has never had the fluid/filter changed, and I have no idea on the 4Runner. Should I be concerned about this? Also, if I should change it on both of them, should I be doing a 'change' or a 'flush'? Besides motor oil, what other fluids are easy to change that I should look into? They both have had radiator work in the past year or 2, so the coolant should be new enough.
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Apr 12, 2013 19:08
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Geoj posted:I'm sure someone will reply saying I don't know WTF I'm talking about, but I'm of the opinion that with that many miles and unknown maintenance history you're better off leaving it alone. At most you could do a fluid change - messy, basically involves disconnecting the transmission cooler and discharging the old fluid while simultaneously sucking new fluid in - and a new filter. The problem with high-mileage automatics that don't get regular changes is various deposits start to form on the internals of the transmission, and if you take it into a shop they're more likely than not to hook it up to a pressurized transmission flushing machine that will knock said deposits loose, and inevitably something will clog up a smaller passage resulting in rough shifts/skipped gears and eventual failure. I have seen this thought before and it seems like half of the comments agree with you and half say it's an old wives tale. I'd do the flush myself if I did it though. DrPain posted:
Yeah, my wife bought it a couple years ago, she drives my accord now and I drive the runner, haha. I'll check the fluid on both tonight. Somehow the 4runner came with a 2000 tacoma owner's manual, so I'm going to have to figure out what kind of ATF it takes some other way... (assuming ATF-4). I was hoping y'all would say to just do a drain & refill + new filter, that's a lot less work.
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Apr 12, 2013 19:21
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90's 4runners
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DrPain posted:
Thanks man this is immensely helpful
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Apr 12, 2013 19:30
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Black88GTA posted:The big GM SUVs to my knowledge haven't had one since 2002, although I don't know about the very newest ones. GM's infuriating penny pinching again. I plan on cutting open the air box on my '03 Escalade and putting them in though. I found a how-to online that I'm going to follow, although it looks pretty straightforward. Already have everything I need to do it, just need to find the time. My 01 suburban has one, it's a bitch to get out. My 12 accord also has one, supposedly it's really easy to get to, no tools needed, but behind the glove box. I'll be switching it whenever I change the oil, just waiting for Maintenance Minder to drop from 20%.
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Apr 17, 2013 22:37
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Zero VGS posted:You guys would probably know this... you know those plastic two-tone horns with the air compressor that they sell at AutoZone and other stores? Is there any brand or model of them that sound close to the standard 500 and 405 hertz? I bought a pair but they are much higher pitched. I need plastic ones because I'm rigging them to my bike with a pressurized air can, as opposed to lugging the whole battery-powered compressor. Maybe try West Marine?
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Apr 17, 2013 23:13
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iv46vi posted:Looking for a laymans guide to installing typical aftermarket alarm systems. Got a Miata with alpine security in it. There seems to be a bunch of extra wires under the dash and under the hood. There is a switch and a led light next to the steering wheel. There is also a "hidden" clicker switch hanging under the dash. I'm going to piggyback off of this and ask a couple of questions about aftermarket keyless entry systems. My wife's 95 4runner does not have a factory alarm/keyless entry (just got off phone with dealership parts dept). I found this on amazon for next to nothing. This would be fine for me (if it works), but if there's something a little pricier that'll roll down the back glass, or even remote start, that would be awesome. I don't really care about alarms. Is this something I could install myself if I took my time with it? edit: it does have power locks and windows, forgot to add that PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 16:07
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I have a 2012 accord whose maintenance minder light just came on. It's an oil change+tire rotation. It's not based just on mileage but anyway I'm planning on doing the oil myself and getting the rotation/brake check done by a tire place I guess. The rest of the stuff is all inspections. I live an hour from a dealership. Is the rest of this doable without a mechanic? Replace engine oil and oil filter Inspect front and rear brakes Check parking brake adjustment Inspect these items: Tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots Suspension components Driveshaft boots Brake hoses and lines (including ABS/VSA) All fluid levels and condition of fluids Exhaust system Fuel lines and connections
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Apr 24, 2013 05:23
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Brigdh posted:Yes, you can do all of this yourself. You can do the tire rotation yourself too. Did you have specific questions about what you might be looking for? I am going to take a gander at an 08 service manual before I ask any specific questions. I guess I am wondering if I just write down that I did XYZ and it all 'looked good to me' if come warranty repair time the dealership will give me a hard time or not. I think the tire change place does rotations for $7. It *is* my birthday tomorrow so maybe I can convince my wife that I need a torque wrench (I should use one right?), jack and stands (that can also lift a Suburban) in addition to the rhino ramps I got a month ago, but I may just pay the $7 to the tire place and wait for a sale or something. PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 06:06
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I splurged on a $11 mobil1 filter. Considering how long it stays on the car I figured it'd be worth the extra few bucks. I have done a couple oil changes on my other vehicles but not this one yet. The curb weight of my suburban is supposedly 4900 pounds. Do I need a 3 ton jack/jack stands if I want to use them for all my vehicles? Harbor Freight ok for that and a torque wrench?
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Apr 24, 2013 13:44
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KozmoNaut posted:The only two reasons to go with smaller jackstands are cost and the fact that bigger stands have significantly taller minimum heights. For a suburban, it's not like that last point matters, though. Will I likely be able to find one set of 4 that will be low enough for an accord and sturdy enough for a Suburban? I guess it's also a factor of how high the jack can go? Specifically these? PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 14:02
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While we're on the topic of AC, is there an easy way to tell if an AC compressor is shot? My 01 suburban (LT, with rear air) made a weird clicking noise for a couple of years, when accelerating, when the AC was running. I could turn off the AC and turn it back on and most of the time it would go away. It blew cold though so I pretty much just ignored it. I got a new car in december of 2011 and haven't driven the suburban much since then. It doesn't make the noise anymore, but the AC doesn't blow cold either. It's not seized up or anything (I don't think it is at least) as there are no other symptoms. Assuming it is the compressor, can I put a new one in myself and take it to someone for a recharge and be done with it? Is swapping a compressor out particularly hard to do?
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May 2, 2013 01:33
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Motronic posted:It's low on refrigerant. You are hearing it cycle. Maybe clicking wasn't the right word... It almost sounded like a bicycle chain if you were to spin the pedals backwards. I wish I had taken a video when it was still making the noise. Is there an AI approved OBD scanner? I took the suburban back to work tonight and the CEL just came on... of course. I'll probably just take it to autozone tomorrow, but it'd be nice to have one at home too.
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May 2, 2013 03:12
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Any idea what this gurgling sound is? The CEL is a knock sensor apparently (should be totally unrelated--that sound has been around for a while, the CEL came on last night). I get to remove the intake manifold to replace them. yay. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZKIQvR88uc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0sD5QNQgxo PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 02:28 on May 3, 2013 |
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May 3, 2013 02:23
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DrPain posted:
Also as I learned here there's a 'feature' where OD doesn't kick on until the engine is warm. Good truck though.
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May 5, 2013 20:24
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Do I need to buy some flare nut wrenches to change a fuel filter or are normal open-end wrenches good-enough?
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May 8, 2013 23:33
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VelociBacon posted:Some Subaru's flash the CEL when the knock sensor detects something. After doing some research on my suburbans knock sensor CEL-- knock sensors don't like water and moisture can ruin them. That wouldn't explain the other weirdness though.
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May 25, 2013 00:01
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CharlesM posted:http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Capacity/dp/B006EGAIII/ If these are the same ones I got at autozone, and I think they are, they worked fine for my '12 accord that scrapes whenever I pull in or out of my driveway unless I get the angle just right.
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May 30, 2013 18:47
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We just purchased one of those ridiculous radio flyer plastic monstrosities for my daughter's first birthday, and I just realized it won't fit in my 2012 accord's trunk when assembled. We wanted to drive an hour to go to the zoo next weekend and take this with us. The wheels use push nuts, so disassembling for transport isn't really an option. I'm looking at roof racks, and it looks like for a Thule/Yakima I'm looking at like $300. Is leaving the trunk open and securing it with nylon straps an option? How dumb of an idea is that, considering I'm driving an hour or so on the interstate? There's a tow loop underneath the trunk. I don't know where else I could secure it to. The top of the trunk doesn't have a loop that I could use as an attachment point, it has something like this:  So I guess I'd have to go around the entire outside of the trunk and risk damaging the paint. Here's what it looks like with the front in shoved in first. I'll probably end up doing it the other way around so that I can possibly fish the strap through where the wagon meets the handle.  Option B is taking the much less safe/reliable '95 4 runner that gets ~11mpg and struggles to get above 60mph e: just found this gem in the OM quote:With the trunk open, airflow can pull PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jun 9, 2013 |
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Jun 9, 2013 22:19
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Billy Tully posted:Driving with the trunk open is a really, really bad idea no matter how powerful the climate control system is. You are going to have tons of exhaust coming into the car. Even a bad trunk or tail light seal can let in enough exhaust to be a problem. If it was a short trip that is one thing but an hour on the highway is a bad idea. Driving down the road in any case creates a lower pressure inside the car, put the wagon on the roof or take the 4 runner. How dumb am I for even considering this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Carry-Power-Roof-Top-Multi-Purpose-Steel-Basket-Carrier-Black-Finish/17771087#Product+Reviews  or this: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...rrier+universal  When the equivalent Thule/Yakima is $300-400?
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Jun 10, 2013 17:04
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Safety Dance posted:For a one-time deal, can't you just ratchet strap it to the roof? I'm worried about boogering up the roof, but I guess these cheapo racks could booger up the roof too. If I put down a blanket or something you think it'd be alright driving 70 some odd highway miles each way? edit: maybe I'll use pool noodles. This could get fun. PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jun 10, 2013 |
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Jun 10, 2013 20:33
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Maybe goo gone?
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Jun 11, 2013 22:58
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Do you want to keep paying for insurance on a car you don't own anymore? You might want to at least call local law enforcement to report it stolen. Where was it taken from?
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Jun 12, 2013 02:30
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So does this mean that chip keys are a dumb excuse to charge >$100 for a replacement? Cause that's sure what it seems like to me.
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Jun 13, 2013 21:14
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'95 4runner 4wd, V6, auto. Wife drove home for her lunchbreak, and said it was making a gurgling sound. She didn't notice the steam. I let it cool down and checked the rad and overflow. Both look to be empty, or at least very low. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygVt9or5mUQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXe7erLRReI   What do I do from here? It was in the shop maybe 6 months ago cause it was overheating. I think they just found a leak and fixed it, but I can't remember for sure, need to find that receipt. I also noticed some metal flakes in the trans fluid, not sure if that's related at all or just cause this truck has ~220k on the clock. I was thinking about filling it up with distilled water and seeing if there are any leaks anywhere. As of right now it's bone dry under the truck. Good idea?
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Jun 14, 2013 19:34
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Also, apparently there's some special toyota antifreeze? Is this something a '95 needs or can I just use prestone or whatever?
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Jun 14, 2013 20:10
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:35 |
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DrPain posted:Sup 4runner buddy. So I just rented one from autozone and it doesn't fit my rad cap. I'd just go ahead and replace the rad but I have a feeling if I did that it'd end up being the water pump... I went ahead and filled it up with water, ran it with heater on full for a good 10-15 minutes, no apparent leaks. Gonna climb under in a minute and make sure I didn't miss anything but I can't see any water in it again. As I'm writing this post I put maybe 12 oz of water in and it appears to be full again.
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Jun 14, 2013 22:23
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