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He seemed to have a lot of mental trauma and stuff, especially how he mentioned his dad. For that reason I have a little bit of sympathy, but really... On the last Cardomain page he was having some trouble with the fuel mixture and getting the engine running right. I guess the heads that were on his motor combined with it being the low compression version ended up making a low compression underpowered build.
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May 30, 2009 07:16
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I don't think it's gonnna happen. Check out this thread for sigtrap's response: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3145666
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May 30, 2009 09:04
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Radio-Controlled posted:Hello AI. Actually I've preferred Haynes for most, but really each one is different. Some of the Chilton books cover many models in one book and aren't very specific. Haynes can do the same thing though. The ultimate is usually the factory service manual, which is pricey but maybe check ebay?
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May 30, 2009 20:23
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Grimster posted:Quick boat question, definitely not thread worthy. In case nobody here knows the answer maybe you could look at / post in this thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3145153
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May 31, 2009 01:56
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I am curious to know, what kind of car is that you have? I haven't heard of many cars having such a small wheel anymore, especially with such a large sidewall. It may benefit you to upgrade to a larger wheel, as tires with such large sidewall usually are kind of soft, and ride quality / handling may be improved. Also, I bet your selection would be much better. I wonder if there's a site that might explain this better than I can. Maybe start by taking a look at http://www.tirerack.com. As I recall, there are articles and guides there, and you can shop for your car too.
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May 31, 2009 03:14
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astrollinthepork posted:It's a beater Fiero, I'd love to get some larger wheels but I'm looking at things from an economic point of view. The rest of the car looks fairly lovely so I don't know how dumb newer looking wheels would look anyway. I like the wheels anyway, factory aluminum that I've never seen on any other Pontiac. The thing is the only tire I can find in that size is a trailer tire. Yikes. I wonder if there might be a similar size that will fit?
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May 31, 2009 03:47
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Using this tool you can figure out how much speedo error you will have by equipping a different size: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Also, I bet there is a Fiero forum somewhere that has people with the same issue and what they've tried.
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May 31, 2009 04:12
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royallthefourth posted:When you walk, wear flip flops. When you're in the car, drive barefoot. I don't like driving barefoot. I can't heel-toe.
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Jun 6, 2009 08:45
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Ether Drunk posted:Thanks. I thought I had taken care of that with the replacement line from the pump to the carb. I neglected the line from the tank to the pump however. Turns out in runs within a half inch of the new headers the previous owner had installed. Runs great now. Post some pics in the post your ride thread or something 
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Jun 9, 2009 02:28
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staticpat posted:I'm trying to identify a car I saw the other day while driving through Virginia. Dodge Rampage? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_Rampage
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Jun 11, 2009 02:04
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I always stick with whatever's in the manual. Crappy wires have a tendency to fall apart on me.
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Jun 14, 2009 03:06
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Throatwarbler posted:I'm guessing sunroof (MS3s don't have sunroofs?), but I hope he actually means convertible top. If that's the case I would not get an aftermarket sunroof. It's cutting into the roof, and they have a tendency to leak after a while. The company may offer a lifetime warranty but if they go out of business it's worthless. Stunt Rock posted:EDIT - Also, shot in the dark since I've had a hard time finding good, consistent answers via Google: The rear wiper doesn't work either. Fuse is also fine. Anyone else had this problem and know how to fix it? I know enough to do basic poo poo but pulling everything apart and rewiring it is beyond my skill level.
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Jun 15, 2009 01:07
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I ask because sometimes the nut or whatever will come undone and it just spins freely. If you're feeling up to it, I'd pick up a Haynes manual or something similar and look up taking off the tailgate panels. Then you could use a voltmeter and see if power is even getting to the wires. If it is, then the motor is probably bad. If not, there's something else wrong.
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Jun 15, 2009 01:44
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Commodore 64 posted:Well I was trying to say a sunroof, but a convertible top; now that gives me an idea... CharlesM posted:If that's the case I would not get an aftermarket sunroof. It's cutting into the roof, and they have a tendency to leak after a while. The company may offer a lifetime warranty but if they go out of business it's worthless. Edit: As anecdotal evidence I know of a Mazdaspeed Protege that kind of twisted the chassis after a high-speed jump (yes, that's right) and it had an aftermarket sunroof. The owner said the sunroof may have made a difference. Really though, jumping a car over a bump at 120mph might do that anyway. As for the radio, I don't know, sorry.
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Jun 15, 2009 04:53
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Leperflesh posted:Also make sure you're placing them right. On my Golf, I placed a stand maybe 6 inches farther along the seam on the bottom than the arrow indicated in the lovely bad diagram in my Haynes, and now I have a bent-over spot along that seam. That location is for the factory emergency jack only, not a regular floor jack, or for placing jackstands. It's the pinch weld, which will bend unless you use that special jack. In my experience, it doesn't really matter too much that it's bent, that's not uncommon. The haynes manual should have a location for jackstands and jack location in it, although the picture may be ambiguous also. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jun 16, 2009 |
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Jun 16, 2009 04:27
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decypher posted:My GF's 96 Honda Civic has got a sticky gas pedal. You have to press very hard and when it finally gives its way too much gas and it lurches forward. I prefer finesse. Would some WD-40 help? Where should I apply it? If not, what can I do to get the touch back in the pedal? I don't know the entire answer, but if you try to do it yourself I would use some kind of proper lubricant like lithium grease, not WD-40. You should check the throttle plate to see if it moves freely before trying the cable.
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Jun 23, 2009 08:48
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It's just a resistor that hooks up to the Intake Air Temperature Sensor. It changes the reading so the air reads colder and the car injects more fuel.
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Jul 3, 2009 23:37
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hobbesmaster posted:Is there any real difference between cheap spark plugs and expensive ones? I see that you can apparently spend anywhere from $1.99/plug to $49.99/plug. It does not seem quite right that there would actually be an order of magnitude and a half of difference between what amounts to a pair of electrodes. Just use what came with the car (part numbers are usually in the manual). The ones with extra electrodes are a gimmick.
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Jul 12, 2009 02:17
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OK here's a silly one. I am usually good at math but for some reason am having a brain fart. If I have a 33mpg car and a 25mpg car, how many miles would I have to drive on the 33mpg one before it saves 15 gallons of gas vs the 25mpg?
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Mar 30, 2011 05:19
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Thanks Kimbo. 1546.875. Wow.
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Mar 30, 2011 05:41
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dakana posted:The center console of my 2001 Nissan Maxima is broken; I bought the car from my dad, and at some point, a plastic part inside snapped in two pieces, and smaller parts fragmented off of it and were lost. It doesn't look like I can superglue it back together, especially since I'm missing some of the smaller pieces. The good news is that the damage is isolated to one continuous plastic piece that I was able to remove from the console entirely. If I had a new part, the console would be fixed. Yes that is where to go. Depending on how the yards around you are, 2001 may be too new to find in a self-service yard (you go to the yard and find the car and part you want yourself and remove it). Otherwise you just have to find a place that stocks Nissan parts. Sometimes there are specialty yards, or they're just broken up into Japanese and domestic, etc. Post where you live, maybe somebody here knows the area and can direct you. edit: There is also http://car-part.com but a random trim part is probably not something you'll find in the dropdown box but maybe try the interior trim/misc option and call the places that show up near you. B!G_$W@NG@ posted:Also, for a random question, does anyone know offhand how solid the 2011 Mazada 3 hatch is? I know someone people hate the new front end, but I'm more worried about reliability. I have a dealer offering me $17999, and that seems like a drat good deal. My GTI search had to be given up after I was warned off VWs by a former mechanic/family friend (of sorts) for bad [problems emerging around 100K miles. I have a 2006 with 50,000 miles and it's been very good. The biggest and really only major problem has been a stuck evap purge valve but that was fixed easily. Also check out the MZR (no Subarus allowed) thread. MZR is a code for a Mazda engine. edit +link: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3039682 Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Mar 30, 2011 |
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Mar 30, 2011 06:23
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Sipher posted:Got my first speeding ticket yesterday. I just wish I had actually deserved it. Check out the A.I. resource thread "stickied" at the top of the forum.
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Apr 11, 2011 22:54
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Faster Blaster posted:This was a few years ago: I was driving around in my 2006 Mazda 3s hatch with all 5 seats occupied, and me being 6'4", my legs were crammed into the dash around the steering wheel. I managed to hit the key with my right knee and rotate it from "ON" to "ACC." I had no idea this happened at the time, and the car continued to drive like normal, but I definitely noticed the electronic power steering suddenly cutting off. I realized what I had done when I turned the car off and noticed it only clicked once when the key turned. I really doubt you turned the key or anything happened here. You drove without the power steering, yet it drove like normal? The steering indicator light did not illuminate? Regardless there was a recall on 2007-2009 vehicles for the power steering pump. If you actually have a 2007 and not a 2006 have that checked out.
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Apr 11, 2011 23:48
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NancyPants posted:Is it common for a brand new/rebuilt alternator to be broken right out of the box? It had these symptoms from day one. I thought I was buying a brand new alternator, and now I'm starting to suspect I may have gotten a rebuild or something. If you bought it from AutoZone or similar, yes.
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Apr 14, 2011 16:18
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Doc Faustus posted:
This is a really common problem on the Taurus. I'm sure there is an answer on Google for you, but I think it involves lubricating the hinges or something, as the door sensor is hidden in there somewhere. edit: In the latches: http://www.fordforums.com/f138/98-taurus-lx-door-ajar-156744/ WD-40 is not my favorite, I usually use something like lithium grease for this, but I'm sure some more folks can answer if they want.
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Apr 14, 2011 20:19
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Ahhh you made me curious about Urea Grease so I did a cursory Google search on it. http://htarchive.org/showthread.php?t=946353 There is one guy on there that says Mobil 1 worked for him, it sounds like the thing to avoid is lithium grease for that application. Of course, it's just a link to another discussion board so I don't know the veracity of the information, but it sounds like you'll survive with the Mobil 1, at least for a few days
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Apr 17, 2011 18:44
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PaulFistInYourFace posted:All you can do is try. ZEP is a pretty big supplier for that stuff.
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Apr 24, 2011 03:59
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Javid posted:I'm pretty sure I killed my mirror adjuster switch. (This thing: http://bit.ly/hYeyeX ) I can't find one anywhere other than from that ebay shop, and for reasons unrelated to this I refuse to use paypal. It seems to me like I should be able to rig up a usable replacement for it with a few random switches from radio shack, but I'm not sure exactly how the circuit works. I know there are sites with wiring diagrams for stereos and poo poo, would there be a place to dig one for this up? The Haynes manual really doesn't cover this kind of piddly crap. There is no junkyard around? I'm pretty sure I've seen that same switch in quite a few other Fords.
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Apr 27, 2011 15:39
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I had some problems shifting mine too. Changing the transaxle fluid to a Redline synthetic fluid helped a lot.
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Apr 29, 2011 19:37
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Mazda actually has a service interval of 30,000 miles for the fluid.
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Apr 29, 2011 19:54
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Skyssx posted:Rangers have had aluminum hoods since '98. I think its mostly "give a gently caress". No, cost is a big reason. Subaru explicitly stopped using aluminum hoods and suspension components to save costs.
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May 4, 2011 23:33
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TBI means throttle body injection
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May 11, 2011 22:57
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The manufacturer cannot deny warranty claims based on the fact you do oil changes yourself, unless you do it wrong somehow or don't keep documentation like receipts that you actually did it.
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May 12, 2011 13:38
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The Scientist posted:That's good to know about the warranties. I've never once owned a car that was under a warranty of any kind, I just didn't want to recommend anyone do anything that could potentially jeopardize theirs. So it is not in fact the case that failing to maintain the strict requirements for regular scheduled maintenance (by taking it in to the dealer at the mandated intervals) would void a warranty? Cool. You still need to maintain the service intervals as recommended by the manufacturer, but the service can be done by anyone, including yourself, as long as it did not actually contribute to the problem your warranty is covering. It is the Magnusson Moss act
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May 12, 2011 17:08
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kimbo305 posted:7 years is a generation and a half in automotive terms. The Civic should be safer. Supposedly the Volvo does not have a motor installed CornHolio posted:In my experience, there is usually a high-side switch; a low-side switch; and sometimes a freeze-up thermostat (in case the evaporator coil freezes). Usually the compressor won't come back on without a significant delay due to the danger inherent in short-cycling the compressor. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 05:54 on May 13, 2011 |
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May 13, 2011 05:52
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General_Failure posted:Designed for... uhhhh... Do you have a/c then?
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May 15, 2011 23:52
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General_Failure posted:No, I do not. I asked my original question because I wasn't sure if the second thermo fan in a lot of cars is also used for normal loading conditions or only for the extra load of A/C. Cars with A/C use 2 fans so that they can blow air over the condensor independently of the engine cooling system. They don't both necessarily need to be on at the same time. For you it's better just to find a fan that meets your size and air flow requirements.
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May 16, 2011 00:28
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I am confused, why did you ask about that?
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May 24, 2011 05:49
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_firehawk posted:The I bought a salvage neon and it exploded on me thread got me thinking. Has any other manufacture ever marketed the exact same car across two brand marquis while keeping the same model name before? As in Dodge/Plymouth Neon? The predecessor to the Neon was the Dodge/Plymouth/Mitsubishi Colt.
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May 25, 2011 13:24
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Sponge! posted:The product description specifically states that its purpose is to enhance the heat transfer capabilities of your antifreeze. The only reason it contains corrosion inhibitors is so its not further diluting the precious stuff... Eh... I thought there were some race series / racetracks that mandate use of no anti-freeze, because it is difficult to clean up. Then those guys just run water wetter. It was a long time ago I heard that though.
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May 27, 2011 13:49
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