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bizwank posted:1990 Corolla, 160K miles/60K on the engine, blue. Is it the "check oil" light? or just the "oil" light. Like the light with a little oil can on it? That doesn't mean check oil, it means the oil pressure is low. The best case scenario is that it means the oil pressure sensor is bad, and allowing the oil light to come on at normal oil pressure, so get that checked out first. It's like a ten dollar part. If that's not the problem, it means your oil pressure is actually too low during low RPM's... which means you've either got a clog like you said, a worn out oil pump, or a lot of engine wear. Either way, with low oil pressure it's just a matter of time before you knock a rod out. I'd get it checked out by a shop immediately.
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Feb 22, 2007 05:49
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Hotdog In A Hallway posted:Is there a way to remove spraypaint from a car without loving up the original paint job? Yes, the new paint will be much softer than the original paint, and if the car was even a little dirty, it won't have adhered well at all. So you can get some spraypaint remover (a mild solvent, sold at auto parts stores) and if that doesn't work, you can just buff it off, or try a claybar like Bad Meat suggested.
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Feb 22, 2007 05:52
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BetterWeirdthanDead posted:Okay, '95 Grand AM GT Coupe. If it's just gushing fluid out, then it's just a matter of fixing the leak. It could be anything from a fully broken part to something as simple as a loose hose. On my Saab, I just needed a hose re-crimped and they charged me $10. But yes, you can ruin your power steering pump and other parts if you don't keep fluid in it. If you absolutely can't get it fixed now, and the power steering is on its own belt, you can drive it for a little while with the belt removed and not permanently ruin it. If the power steering is driven by a shared accessory belt then I think you're pretty much stuck fixing it now or spending 3x as much in about a week. If it's spewing the fluid in 30 minutes then just refilling it all the time is not an option.
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Feb 22, 2007 07:53
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Uthor posted:I've got CEL today while I was cruising down the road. The guy at Advanced Auto Parts said that it has something to do with the emissions controls and I should take it to a mechanic. Otherwise he wasn't too helpful. Is there anything easy/cheap I can do before dropping money on a mechanic? Seafoam? My guess is tightening your gas cap will make it go away. If not, let me know.
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Feb 22, 2007 21:29
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High Altitude Hair Stylist posted:When I brake in my 1998 Buick Regal GS I hear a loud gravely noise from the general direction of under my hood. My question is what do you think is wrong and how much will this cost me to repair? New brake pads and rotors most likely. $100 at brakes plus if the rotors don't need to be replaced. More if they do.
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Feb 23, 2007 21:01
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bizwank posted:Yeah it's the little oil can, the only oil light I have. My oil sensor is a $45 part, so I'm hoping to test it and my oil pressure as well before replacing anything. I have a compression testing kit, is there some way I can use that to test oil pressure and avoid having to buy a new kit? This will be a moot point in a week when I get paid, but I have to drive the car to and from work until then so I'd like to find out if there's a real problem that could be causing engine damage. Unfortunately if the sensor isn't bad then you've been running your engine with low oil pressure (momentarily) and that could mean engine damage. No way to really tell until the bearings start knocking. A compression tester can't be used to test your oil pressure. The only way I can think of to test oil pressure is to hook up a real oil pressure gage to the same spot as the sensor. I hope the sensor is just flaking out.
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Feb 27, 2007 09:14
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fooquestionmark posted:I did some actual research and it ends up their just dust covers, now I'm wondering that because I'll have to disconnect the tie rod if I will have to get an alignment. If you very carefully mark the location of the jam nut on the tie rod end, you can reassemble it and not need an alignment. An easy trick for doing that is before taking anything apart, mark one of the hex flats of the jam nut with a file, and file a small flat on the threads, flush with the nut and aligned with the marked flat. By marking the rotational position of the nut as well as the thread it was on, you'll know exactly where it was. If you can't see the file mark, you're one thread too far. If there's an unfiled thread between your nut and the mark, you have one thread to go. The only way your alignment will be off is if you tighten it significantly tighter or looser than how it was before you disassembled it. And don't go crazy with the file, but definitely mark it well enough to be seen clearly during reassembly.
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Mar 1, 2007 00:17
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The Rising Suun posted:Stupid question: I am getting a whooshing, almost whine when my engine speed increases. I want to say that it isn't normal revs, but I'm not as opbservant as most of you guys. I really haven't been able to isloate it. It's a '93 pathfinder, 5 speed manual. It's more prominent in lower gears and seems to disappear above a certain rpm. Could be power steering pump, check fluid level. It could be the alternator wearing out. It could be the water pump wearing out, A/C pulley wearing out, or it could be a belt wearing out. Check for loose intake hoses and such as well. Comedy option: You have a surprise turbo.
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Mar 1, 2007 00:22
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Deserted posted:How do I get this salvage yard marking off this car without scratching the paint or mirror? As for the mirror, water and a razor blade will take it right off. The water just keeps the razor blade from scratching the glass. You might have to use rubbing compound on the paint. They sell pinstripe erasers at auto body and paint supply stores. They're not as easy to find at regular auto parts stores but sometimes you get lucky. There will be a supply store somewhere near you. I got one for $16. They had one at my local NAPA but it was like $35 for the exact same thing. You have to have a fairly fast drill or they won't work. It won't work in a cordless drill, it's gotta be up around 3000 RPM. It'll say on the eraser or the package what RPM it needs.
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Mar 2, 2007 01:06
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Petekill posted:I recently bought a set of 17" wheels and tires to replace the stock 15 inchers on my 2001 Saab 9-3. When I put them on, or have them put on, will I have to buy new lugbolts, or will the ones that are on the wheels now work? I'd think the stock ones will work but sometimes custom wheels have different clearances than standard, so the only way to find out for sure is to try them out. Just pop one bolt out and see how it fits in the new wheel when they show up. If it seats on the countersink it'll be fine.
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Mar 10, 2007 05:09
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Adiabatic posted:Dont even try messing around with a coathanger or something. Save yourself some time and bite the bullet... take it out and crack the case open. Yeah, if you can see the 20 you might try a tweezers or something to fish it out but don't go randomly jabbing poo poo into a CD slot or it'll likely never load a CD again.
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Dec 11, 2007 06:41
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Dramatika posted:My car has been acting up - 2002 Toyota Corolla. What kind of transmission? Cars these days have safety interlocks to make sure you don't start it in gear, and those switches can fail, preventing it from starting. If it's manual it could be the clutch switch. If it's an automatic, the park neutral position switch is a possibility. Next time it happens, if manual try pumping the clutch pedal or pushing it harder. If auto, try wiggling the shifter or putting it in neutral to start and see if that helps.
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Jul 16, 2010 16:22
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Dramatika posted:It's an automatic. Could be the immobilizer if it has one, there's sometimes an antenna that reads the key to make sure it's the right one. Those can go bad.
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Jul 17, 2010 03:26
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andy17null posted:So I just bought my first car [blue '99 firebird.] I purchased it from a private seller in the state of NY. I have to send the title to my bank ASAP for a lien. I am moving to Connecticut on Monday to start my new job. Should I register the car in NY or CT? I know I have to get a CT license within 30 days. Do I have to register the car, get plates mailed to me, put the plates on in NY and drive to CT, or can I drive to CT with no plates and park it until I get plates? It's about a hundred miles each way, almost all on I-84. This is tricky but there's no "you have to do this" scenario as far as I know, what you have to do is research the costs for both scenarios and do whichever is cheaper. You don't usually have a deadline on when to switch plates, so if you register it in NY right now, you can take your time and wait for everything to get to you before switching it to CT. The thing you have to be careful of is sales tax. Often if you buy a car from out of state it's to take advantage of a lower sales tax, and states often protect themselves from that by enforcing their own sales tax, which they do when you try to apply for a title. I got screwed that way myself. I bought a car in Oregon, which has no sales tax at all, the week before moving. I decided to save the $42 title and registration fees (back then they were cheap) and just get a temp tag so I could register it in Colorado once I got here. Denver had a 7.4% sales tax on cars, and since I didn't have an Oregon title and registration in my name, they forced me to pay it as if I was a CO resident for years, buying an out of state car. On an $11,000 car. I saved $42 but it forced me to spend several hundred. Luckily they allow you to subtract the value of your trade in, so I ended up paying something like $300 in tax, I don't remember the exact figures now. And since I was no longer an OR resident by the time I found this out, I couldn't go back and get the title and reg there. Anyway, check out the sales tax for both states, the registration and title fees for both states, visit or call the DMV and find out if there is a time restriction on switching your registration, and then do a bunch of math to figure out if you're better off registering the car first and switching to CT with it already in your name. If both states have similar car taxes and reg fees, you're likely better off just pretending to be a CT resident who bought a car in NY, and waiting till you move to do the paperwork.
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Sep 6, 2010 04:52
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Mr. Wiggles posted:
How powerful is your impact wrench? Do you have a solid air supply for it? I'd try a bigger one if you can. Maybe at this point you should take it to a shop and see if they can bust it loose. At least talk to them and ask if there's a trick to it or if it's normally this hard to remove.
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Sep 8, 2010 04:57
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Crankshaft Pulley Update!!!