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Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Old Toyota question:

I've got an 83 supra 5MGE that was totalled a couple years back and I've just started making it roadworthy again. The last time I smogged it (CA, about 3 years ago) it failed because the cats were bad those got replaced and all was well. This time it passed cats, but failed EGR. I'm assuming the EGR valve and poo poo are stuck from sitting for two years so I'm going to try to clean that before shelling out any money. Anyone have any suggestions as to what to clean/replace that would further my chances of passing?

While I'm at it, same car has a weird electrical gremlin that causes the power windows to not work for 10 minutes or so on a cold start. I've replaced relays, fuses and the big circuit breaker in the window wiring line. Ever seen something like that?

Frozen Pizza Party fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Jan 2, 2015

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Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Uthor posted:

Stupid question: the folks have a 2011 Subaru Forester. It had a CEL on, dealership cleared it up. I was googling to get more info and am curious if there is a common nomenclature to narrow down my search to the relevant years.

(Like my 2007 GTI, I can search for "MKV" or "MK5" to capture 2006-2009 models.)

Pretty much all OBDII will have the same codes. If you know the code, just google it and you'll have no trouble finding out what it is and how to triubleshoot

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Uthor posted:

Well, I could Google the code (p0303 cylinder #3 misfire), but was curious if this was a common problem with that generation. I was seeing a lot of posts for older cars (2004-ish) and wanted to narrow it down some. Turned out there was an ECU update that I wasn't seeing when searching.

Nice, I was going to suggest nasioc as well, but wasn't sure if you just wanted to know what the code was. My Subaru knowledge ends in MY08 :(

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Motronic posted:

Looks like 05+. OK, so I now have exactly one datapoint on this.

One doesn't surprise me. There are special snowflake applications all over the automotive industry.

You'll also get a P0420 code with it out or reading improperly :2bong:

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Foehammer007 posted:

HKS GT2510 - 0.64 A/R


I have had it for a year now, and hasn't really had problems like this now. I don't notice it at lower RPMs, where I suppose it would matter (in some cases :3:), but this is also my first turbo car (and my first turbo upgrade :toot:). I got a custom chip tune from a friend of mine, and I have thought maybe it could be something along those lines, but I haven't really checked my turbo inlet, (something I am doing tomorrow when its not raining :thumbsup: ) but overall I am not sure if there are other things that I should be testing/checking.

At the end of the day, I have only noticed 1-3 psi drop, so I suppose its not the biggest of deals, but I would love to get max boost, while I have it. :blush:

Boost has a peak/hold usually, have you compared your numbers with other people's numbers? How is the 18PSI assigned, manual boost controller or software?

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Foehammer007 posted:

Software, and no I have not compared with others, I do not know many GTIs with upgraded turbos in my area (Atlanta, GA). I know of one guy with a E30 that had sort of a similar A/R as I do, but then he blew his engine. :stare:

I'd check around, it's pretty normal to have some sort of falloff. Example, my stageII STi would peak at 18psi and hold 15.9.

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

kastein posted:

Mr. Wiggles, it really sounds like a wiring issue to me as well if it isn't that CPS reluctor ring issue. If you are anywhere near central or northeastern mass I can drop by and take a poke at it, otherwise, not really sure what you should do.


Have a helper hold a shopvac over the oil fill opening (cap off, naturally) and pull the plug. Leisurely clean around the drain hole, clean the plug, put the gasket on, reinstall. I bet you don't lose a drop.

This requires a shopvac with good suction - if you don't have one, you need an excuse to buy one anyways. I've got the biggest Ridgid that home depot had (I think it's this one - http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-16-gal-5-Peak-HP-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-WD1636/204351678) and it would work fine.

Is the oil too heavy to suck out of the top this way? This could be life changing.

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Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Mercury Ballistic posted:

My 04 wrx with 5 speed manual has a smell that comes from the vents. The clutch is 3000 miles new, as is the flywheel. The smell shows up when the car is warm and the car is stopped. The smell to me smells like burning clutch but it shows up even if I baby it. The smell is stronger the faster I drive.

The wheels/brakes are not hot and the smell only comes through the vents, I cant smell it outside the car at all. I have looked several times and tightened everything I can see and see no signs of a leak of anything. I thought it might be oil dripping on the exhaust, but see no smoke and the smell only comes through the vents.

Other than this issue the car drives great, the clutch grabs well, acceleration is good, etc. The mechanic is going to look at when I can afford to loan out the car but that is a few weeks away.

Any ideas anyone?

Could be various engine smells coming through the firewall plug, which may have come dislodged. My engine stink got noticeably stinkier when I forgot to put the plug back in after running an amp wire.

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