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PaintVagrant posted:How serious are EGR codes? My buddys 2003 3.0 v6 mazda6 was throwing a lean code on both cylinder banks and a cylinder 3 misfire. We replaced the plugs, the cracked intake tube and crankcase breather hose, pcv, and intake manifold gaskets. Cleared the codes and nothing seemed to come back for about a day. It'll hurt absolutely nothing to drive it that way, but won't pass emissions. Did it previously have the same code? That code, btw, is generally something electrical in the EGR system. This thread seems to suggest it's potentially a vacuum sensor on the firewall that connects to the EGR system. Not guaranteeing it's something else, but seems like the easiest place to start... and since the manifold was off, it's possible you knocked a hose or plug off of that sensor.
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Jan 7, 2015 07:11
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Slavvy posted:Just get one and try it, ECU's dying is comparatively rare. The fact that it controls the fuel pump relay doesn't really mean much because it's possible (and common) for ecu's to fail in a way that only one or two functions stop working. You're picturing 'broken ecu' as 'thrown in a flaming pit of electromagnets' but really it's more 'solder on one circuit gone bad'. I'm reluctant to condemn the ecu but if you really have replaced the cam and crank sensors AND the leads AND the coil packs aaaaand you check the wiring then there really isn't much else for it. I was at my old mechanic's one day when he was trying to troubleshoot a Camry that wouldn't turn over. Strong gasoline smell under the hood with no leaks, so he yanked the plugs, found one of them dripping wet. Cranked it, and gas shot out of the #4 cylinder. The ECU had failed in such a way that injector #4 was wide loving open and actually hydrolocking the engine, junkyard ECU fixed it. It had a stored code for a #4 misfire, and had been running on 3 cylinders for awhile. When they do fail, they fail in interesting ways. Wiggles, your car should be old enough that you can just swap in a same-year ECU. Newer cars have to have the ECU paired to everything else in the car. Friar Zucchini posted:I'll be moving to Georgia in a couple weeks. When I get there I'll be selling my car and getting a new one. The one I've got now is registered in California but the smog check was due in September, at which time I was in Texas. Would it be better to sell it as-is with expired CA plates (because Air Force) or to try to register it in GA first? You should be fine selling it as-is. I actually did the reverse years ago - I bought a car from a friend in Atlanta, and he drove it out to Dallas for me and stayed for a few days. The tags were expired by the time I got around to registering it - the only thing I had to do before I could register it in Texas was get the regular state inspection done, and ask for an extra form to take to the title office. Some states require that the seller get it inspected/smogged first (Cali is one of them).
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Jan 8, 2015 07:30
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Really stupid question here. Changing the thermostat on my 2006 Saturn Ion soon (2.2L Ecotec 4 cylinder, L61, manual transmission). There's a drain plug drain the block, and I plan to drain/flush the radiator as well. I did a partial drain/fill on it with certified Dex Anything special in burping it? There's no radiator cap, and I can't find anything in terms of burping screws/vents (like you'd see on a Honda) - only a surge tank that seems to sit at almost the highest point in the cooling system. I have a steep driveway, so I could park it facing downhill if needed (the surge tank is closer to the firewall than the radiator). It should be the same as the Chevy Cobalt, Pontiac G5, and Chevy HHR in terms of the cooling system. Surge tank visible here (far right)  The surge tank is connected to a T junction in one of the cooling system hoses - possibly a heater hose?
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Jan 8, 2015 09:56
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Mr. Wiggles posted:But the computer, where can it be? Might check behind the passenger kickpanel. Just a guess though.
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Jan 9, 2015 22:20
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nwin posted:2006 Honda Accord EX-L with the 4 cylinder. 96k miles. That's the secondary O2 sensor - you won't hurt a thing by driving it like that. That sensor mostly exists to monitor the performance of the catalytic converter (some cars might use it to really fine tune the air/fuel mixture, but the primary sensor [sensor 1] handles 99% of that). You're fine to make the trip, just get the sensor replaced eventually. If it were sensor 1, I'd say replace it before the trip, as your mileage would tank - but it's not. Your car is actually under a recall for the airbag system as it is, unless you've had the recall already performed. Go here and type in your VIN to see active recalls - it's possible that when they replace the airbag, they'll also fix whatever is causing the airbag light to come on. Or at least be able to tell you why it's coming on. They may charge a diagnostic fee. 61-1 is indeed low battery voltage. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage at the battery terminals with the car off. Then check it with the ignition in the run position, but the engine off. A fully charged car battery is in the neighborhood of 12.7 volts; if you see it below 12.2, the battery may be weak. Get it tested at your nearest non-Autozone parts store (I've found AutoZone's testers don't show actual output, and tend to say "bad battery" even on brand new batteries). Not sure about the temp display - I'd assume a bad sensor for it. I have no idea where it's located though, my last Accord was an 01 and lacked an outside temp gauge. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jan 11, 2015 |
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Jan 11, 2015 07:02
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nwin posted:Just an update on this. So yesterday, I went ahead and pulled the negative cable off the battery for a minute, which obviously reset the codes. Less than 500 miles, usually. The sensor may be just right on the edge of acceptable. But it usually takes a few "drive cycles" before it'll turn on the CEL. Most modern ECUs require seeing the same fault for at least 2 trips in a row before the light comes on. It's also possible that water had gotten into the plug, and was causing issues. Not something to blow off, but it's safe to forget about until the check engine light comes back on. I usually did 32-33 mpg in my 01 Accord, highway. 2 cars later, and I'm still amazed at the mileage it got on road trips; my best was 34 in that car, with the cruise at 80 and the a/c on (between Dallas and Austin - 5 speed manual). Liam Emsa posted:I have a 97 civic. Is the sunroof supposed to fully open? As long as I've owned it, it only does two things: Tip open and close. However, the button looks like this. What Slavvy said. Either the switch is broken (most likely), or there's an electrical issue. As someone who owned a 96 Civic EX (factory sunroof), the bottom button should cause it to pop up, then slide back all the way (I think the bottom button completes two circuits). AFAIK, if it was a mechanical issue, the bottom button would also cause it to pop up, but not go further (but I haven't owned a Civic in nearly 10 years, so...). MomJeans420 posted:My friend's 2002 Honda Accord (4 cyl) has had a P1739 code for at least a couple of months, which is the 3rd gear clutch pressure switch circuit. The Honda forums just said it's safe to ignore if there aren't any problems, but on a longer drive this weekend it sounded like the car was having issues being in the right gear on a steep hill, and now it's throwing a P0730 - incorrect gear ratio. It's the V6 autos that had major transmission issues - the 4 cylinder autos were pretty bulletproof. The solenoids are external, and easily accessible from under the hood. Swap them for new ones, or at least used ones, clear the codes, drive it a bit. It's the most common issue on that era of Honda automatics (that aren't behind a V6). Drain/fill of fluid wouldn't hurt, just make sure to use genuine Honda fluid. If the transmission does poo poo itself, the last generation Prelude transmission is a direct swap; it's built to handle a bit more power, and has shorter gearing, which results in a little more fun off the line. I've known more than a few people who did that exact swap on the 98-02 Accord. Only downside is firmer shifts, if you expect it to feel like a grandma car. Part of me wants to say you need to swap the transmission computer, but I'm thinking you don't. Speedometer also winds up slightly off. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 11:30
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Supposedly, moth balls deter rabbits. Not 100% sure on this, but it seems to keep them out of our flower beds. They stink bad enough to deter me, anyway.
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Jan 13, 2015 09:10
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Extra posted:In the L61 Ecotec is there an easy way to tell if there have been issues with valve clearance (valve/piston contact) without removing the valve cover? It's a 2.2L DOHC transverse interference inline 4 with a timing chain. I'm guessing if there were issues (previously broken timing chain) a serious misfire would occur because X quantity of valves would be bent. That or there wouldn't be enough compression in the cylinders for the engine to start. Sorry, was asleep when you tried to hit me up on IRC. It won't run if there's been piston/valve sexytimes; if it does, it'll run very, very, very badly. They are an interference engine, though I've heard of a couple of incidents when the timing chain skipped and no damage occurred (aside from the car dying). They really don't have much in the way of timing chain issues except for the tensioner, and it's pretty easy to replace (don't even have to remove the valve cover). A misfire would more than likely be one of the coils (there's 2 on the older L61, so if one goes, you run on 2 cylinders), ignition control module, or just plain old neglect. The tensioner is pretty obvious when it goes; you'll hear the timing chain rattling for a couple of seconds on a cold start at first, then eventually rattling all the time. It's not a very powerful engine (though as you noted, a J-body is light enough that you can have some fun), but it's sturdy. Anony Mouse posted:My girlfriend was driving my 2007 Honda Civic in slow traffic on the highway and got rear ended. She was stopped and got hit at maybe 5-10 mph. It's hard to tell if there's any new damage to the bumper because it was already pretty scratched up, but it doesn't seem to be cracked or dented. There's a metal beam, along with a styrofoam core, that sit behind the bumper. The styrofoam core will definitely be damaged, at the least. Even at 5 mph, the metal beam may have been damaged. Let the other person's insurance handle it. Or your own, if you don't feel like dealing with their insurance. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Jan 14, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 04:20
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Volcott posted:Re: my previous question, do you think it would be worth it to try to find a 2006 or later Civic as opposed to buying the 2005? Also, you didn't think much of the Nissan Sentra, which was my alternate. Would a Toyota Corolla be a better choice? FWIW, the 06-08 Civics (some 09's as well) had a small issue with the engine blocks cracking open.  Something about poor casting, or the exhaust running too close to the block, either way it resulted in a replacement engine block. And always blamed on the owner until the official TSB was issued (and even then it's up to the dealer if they should replace it under goodwill). The Si (or in Canada, Si-R) isn't lumped into this; it uses a pretty sweet K20 engine that doesn't suffer from the same flaws.05 and older had an uglier body style (IMO 01-05 Civics were the ugliest Civics ever, followed closely by the current generation), but were much easier to work on, and had the solid D series engine. IMO, out of the ones you mentioned, the 06+ Civic is probably the best looking (and worst to work on), <06 Civics the ugliest, Sentra and Corolla in the middle. The Corolla will probably be the most reliable, and likely have the most interior room, but it'll also be the most bland. The Sentra (barring an 06+ Civic anyway, they really built the car around the engine) would be the biggest pain in the rear end to work on if you plan to do your own wrenching. If you're looking for a point A to B commuter car, the Corolla would be the best choice. An alternative is the Toyota Matrix; it's basically a stretched Corolla. Assuming you're in the US, another alternative to that is the Pontiac Vibe; it's mechanically a Corolla/Matrix (I think the only mechanical difference between Toyota/Matrix is suspension and maybe brakes), and built at the same factory (NUMMI in California), but doesn't hold its value nearly as well thanks to having a GM badge (good for you, since you're buying used). Different body and interior obviously, but the underpinnings are all Toyota (just like the Geo/Chevy Prizm was actually a Corolla).
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Jan 15, 2015 10:16
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You got a Pontiac.. as a JDM import.. how does that even work when it's a US model.  - or was it badged as a Toyota?I've only seen a few Matrix GT's in the wild here. I actually see more Vibes than Matrix's (my grammar nazi innards tell me that's wrong, but..) on the road now. I know Toyota and GM were in bed for JDM products, such as the Toyota Cavalier (what the gently caress was Toyota thinking?!), but I had no idea they exported the Vibe as "JDM".
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Jan 15, 2015 12:28
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Extra posted:Thank you kindly I appreciate you taking the time out to give me some neat info on why I should stop being such a weeb and learn the joys of domestic car ownership. I'm rather glad to learn they're equipped with a sturdy engine. The other candidates are the SC2 and ZX2 and both have weak differentials so hopefully the Getrag F23 diff is a bit more robust when the tires spin. Plus Quaife sells an LSD for it The F23 is already pretty close to its limit in terms of power with the L61, but you won't have to worry about spinning the tires much with it unless it's in a J-body (which is a bit lighter than the Delta platform that the Ion/Cobalt/etc are based on). I've abused mine a little here and there though, and so far it hasn't broken (yet). The SC2 is a solid car, but they're guaranteed to be oil burners. I've driven a friend's SC1 that was throwing upwards of 15 codes and idled at 2000 RPM, with nearly 300k, and it still had plenty of power. A/C even worked. Though her brother is a mechanic, and may or may not be a licensed state inspector (there's no way it'd ever pass emissions, and fixing all the issues would cost more than it's worth). I'm at 107k on my Ion, and only lose about 1/2 a quart between 8-10k oil changes (running Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage + AC Delco filters). I'm going to change the oil on my next day off (around 7500 right now) and send another sample to Blackstone, but previous samples showed that the engine was healthy. On the other hand, a friend of mine just blew up the L61 in her 05 Ion, with about the same mileage. Hers burned a ton of oil (I suspect either her or the previous owner didn't change it often enough), and she was bad about checking it. Engine seized. It'll start and run (very badly) when it's cold, but seizes up again after about a minute. The F23 isn't very refined; it's very notchy, and mine is a bit grouchy about 3rd gear when it's cold (always has been, and I've put about 40k on the car myself). Pretty sure just changing the fluid will help (I'm sure it's never been done), but the drain plug is a pain in the rear end to get to on my car.
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Jan 16, 2015 09:54
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How long has it been since you changed the oil in the gearbox? Part of it is also likely simply just wear, but fresh fluid often makes a manual shift a lot easier.
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Jan 17, 2015 07:25
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two_beer_bishes posted:Looking at for a new battery for my '11 Golf tdi. A guy at work who I bullshit with about cars all the time recommended walmart brand batteries as inexpensive and good quality. Anyone have experience with their brand everstart? There's nothing wrong with Everstart batteries (they're either Johnson or Exide batteries anyway). The bitch is that it's a huge pain in the rear end to warranty them - most Walmart employees (and I say this as a former Walmart employee) are utterly clueless about 95% of what goes on in their stores. They'll be about the same quality battery that you'd get from AutoZone or O'Reillys higher end batteries, just a lower price tag.
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Jan 18, 2015 09:27
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two_beer_bishes posted:Are you saying that trying to exchange the battery by using the warranty is a pain? Any tips on getting them to make good on it if I need them to? It's drat near impossible if you try to go through customer service. You need to go through the tire/lube counter, and you're better off going in through the entry/exit in that part of the store with the battery. It seems to be relatively painless if you go that route, but keep that receipt (and make a copy/scan it, as the thermal paper will fade as it ages) - they don't keep track of warranties like parts stores do, so they can't just look it up by your phone number. Mr. Wiggles posted:Well, slavvy, i think you have it then. The car's not worth that effort, so we'll see if we can get $50 in scrap for it. You should be able to get at least $250, I would hope. If you have the original parts that you've replaced, I'd drop them all back in and ebay the new ones, or return if you're within the warranty period. That way you can at least recoup some of the money. Maybe leave the replacement ECU in it and ebay the original one, as you know the original one is good. Slavvy posted:it happens a fair bit on the Kia/Hyundai engines that have that setup, when they start getting old. Good to know in case I wind up buying a Kia/Hyundai. Any idea what year they stopped using that setup in? Or are they still doing that on lower end models?
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Jan 19, 2015 08:45
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Slavvy posted:They stopped it when they dropped cambelts which was around 2008 for most models. That being said, I've never seen it happen on the most recent generation of belt driven engines like the Alpha 2 so I think it was a babby's first QC issue more than anything fundamental. Good to know; once the Saturn is paid off, it'll most likely be pretty worn out and/or I'll be tired of it (probably a bit of both). A base model Soul (.... shut up, I actually like them) is at the top of my list if I buy new. I'd prefer the + thanks to the larger engine, but only the base is available with a manual transmission, and even the base has nearly all of the features I want (power windows and locks, Blueteef, etc). I'd pay a bit more if I could get the + engine with a manual transmission, but that's not an option in the US market. The only other + feature I'd want would be the LED interior lighting, but that's easy enough to fix. It looks like even the base gets a sunroof. I want to say older + models got an optional man tranny that could be jerked around whenever I needed to go faster, but it's not an option for 2015 models.
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Jan 19, 2015 13:19
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My stupid question. Need to do rear brakes on mom's car (2003 Toyota Avalon XLS). Anything special about them? It's 4 wheel disc, but I have no idea if the parking brake is similar to my old Integra (which had ratcheting calipers and an actual cable attached to the calipers), or if it's drum-in-disc, or some hybrid.Slavvy posted:If your smaller model has the 1.6 engine, they still get up and go reasonably well. The gearing is well picked and the engine has loads of mid range. Probably a lot slower than your saturn though. Yeah, the options are 1.6 and 2.0. The 1.6 seems to have 130 hp, while my Saturn has 140 hp. I think the Soul weighs a little less, and the Saturn's gearing is stupidly tall (tall enough that I can hit the speed governor in 4th - which is set at 174 kmh/108 mph). The Saturn does have a bit more torque, but again, stupidly tall gearing. I know the + was offered with a manual for awhile, it seems they dropped it for 2015. In totally legal track races  it stays even with recent 4x4 pickups, runs away and hides from Toyota Echos, and doesn't do so well against Z30 SC300/Soarers.Hikaki posted:Question about troubleshooting power windows for a 2001 Honda Accord sedan. Here are the facts: Absolutely. If the master switch fails, the other switch will also show the same issues. The master switch would be my first suspect. If it goes down, but not up, the motor is fine - to roll the window up, the switch simply reverses the positive and negative connections to the motor (in fact I've rolled windows up by flipping the connector around at the motor and finding a way to make it fit, then holding the switch in the down position, when a switch has failed in a similar manner; both on my own cars and on friends cars). The regulator is fine too - if it wasn't, it would try to roll up, but the window would pop out of the tracks. Hit up a junkyard and get a used switch, hit up ebay, or hit up Rockauto. It doesn't look like AutoZone stocks them, unfortunately. If you don't need it to roll up RIGHT NOW, order one from Rockauto, or find a part number on Rockauto and look it up on Amazon. Liam Emsa posted:http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/4789141574.html 4x4. The smaller one is for the transfer case. Generally you have 2-High, neutral, 4-High, 4-Low. some_admin posted:So, she upgraded her AAA and got it towed back here (Denver). She broke a key trying to start it before she found it would not start (just crank) so local garage is suspicious that key/immobilizer is in play. They are still looking into it, updates as the story unfolds. Car has run previously using either key. Aargh. The immobilizer light would be flashing while trying to start if the immobilizer is an issue (it's a green light at the top of the dash that looks like a key - it also flashes a couple of times when you shut off the car). If she holds the plastic part of the key against the plastic under the ignition lock while trying to start it, the computer will be able to read it. C-Euro posted:I am woefully unprepared for this so here goes- I was in my first-ever accident earlier this evening. Or rather, a doe thought it would be a good idea to cross the wet, dark road and pick a fight with my front bumper (she lost). I'm OK and my car still runs fine; the driver corner of my front bumper got messed up pretty bad and there's a sizeable dent in the hood, but as far I can tell it still runs completely fine and I didn't notice any new noises or pieces in danger of falling off. However, this is the first time any car of mine has suffered structural damage while I've driven it so I have no idea what to do. My insurance is up-to-date, and because I bought the car last summer I still have bumper-to-bumper coverage. I'm guessing I should just schedule a repair appointment with the dealer first thing in the morning, and they'll probably tell my insurance what happened, right? Or should I file a claim even though the repairs are covered under warranty? In most states, an animal impact is covered under comprehensive insurance (the same part that covers theft, fire, weather damage, etc). That means making a claim to get it fixed will either not affect your rates, or have a very negligible effect on them. As others mentioned, it's not going to be a warranty issue. Contact your insurance, tell them you hit a deer, pay your deductible, let them handle it. You can choose your own body shop, but if you use an "approved" body shop (approved by your insurance), then you generally get a lifetime warranty on the work. The dealer will likely just farm it out to a local body shop and mark up the price; not many dealers have their own body shops these days. SperginMcBadposter posted:How does the magic that raises the rpms when the ac compressor is on work? When I run the ac in the zx2 it overdoes it and will accelerate the car a little bit when the car is in gear. It makes the ride a bit jerky when it kicks on and off. The compressor shouldn't be able to stall out the engine with the car in gear so I don't know why it bothers raising rpm's at all if it's above idle. As others said, the ECU just opens up the IACV a bit more (or on newer stuff with electronic throttle bodies, the ECU just opens the throttle body a little more). If the a/c is undercharged significantly, the ECU may be expecting it to sap a bit more power than it actually is. It could also be a dirty IACV. You'll see the RPMs surge briefly at idle when the a/c kicks on, but it should be very brief. And as Slavvy pointed out, it's a lot more noticeable when the a/c kicks on/off on a car with a smaller engine, especially while driving. nwin posted:So, when can I tell that I need new brake pads/rotors? Same car mentioned earlier (06 Honda accord with 96k miles on it). I bought it with around 65k miles and have never changed the brakes (pads or rotors). I still seem to be able to stop fine, but I do notice that the car vibrates a bit, when I put the brakes on at high speeds. I also looked at the front rotors and there are some pretty obvious grooves in them. Grooved rotors without hearing grinding are pretty indicative that someone did a pad slap on it in the past - meaning they didn't resurface or replace the rotors with the brake job. I generally get 40k+ out of front brakes, and I do pizza delivery for a living (i.e. more abuse than the car would get if I used it as a taxi).. I pulled the brakes off of my car after I'd owned it for 35k, and the pads looked drat near new, but I had horrible vibrations when braking, so it got new pads and rotors. The rotors and pads are easy to do yourself, with nothing more than basic hand tools (and maybe a breaker bar to remove the lower caliper bracket bolt - you need to break the other one loose too, but only enough to swing the bracket out of the way, to remove the rotor). Honda also uses screws at the factory to attach the rotors - you'll likely find them in place, and likely seized. It won't hurt anything to drill them out if you can't unscrew them (there's 2 screws on each rotor, both phillips). They exist solely to keep them in place on the assembly line, and there's nothing gained nor lost by leaving them out (the wheel holds them in place once it's mounted). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 08:35
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Good to know on the brakes. So no ratcheting caliper poo poo to deal with, that was a pain in the rear end on my Integra. Also, it's not a handbrake on the USDM model, it's a grandma-oriented foot-operated parking brake for the US models. It actually does need the parking brake adjusted though - you have to stomp the (parking brake) pedal to the floor for it to even think about holding on a hill. Absolutely no resistance until the pedal is almost to the floor. I figure either the cables are stretched or someone drove it with the "make the car smell funny lever on" (to quote Mitch Hedberg). The Rio just screams "cheap" to me. The Soul does too, but at least it stands out a little from the Rio. But I want my 3 pedals and a stick, damnit. I'm used to electric power steering. It took more time to get used to the drive by wire than the electric steering on the Saturn, and ever since the recall work was done, it feels like normal hydraulic steering (previously it would occasionally pop a fuse, and in the winter, it would be bitchy for the first 1-2 km of the day). I'm still 1-2 years away from buying another car. The Saturn's been reliable, and gets reasonable fuel economy, but it has absolutely no rearward visibility. Or rear-side visibility, since the C pillars are about the size of my torso. It actually handles pretty good for what it is though. Also, I don't think we ever got the Cerato/Cee'd here - I think the smallest car Kia currently sells in the US is the Rio. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:04 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 09:02
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Raluek posted:Hmm, maybe it's got something to do with the clutch safety switch. Usually that's on the pedal, though, not the clutch itself. Weird. The grommet (and clutch safety switch) are indeed on the pedal on OP's car (speaking as a former Civic owner, though this applies to many, many cars for both clutch safety switches and brake light switches) Electrical tape and a penny are the easiest fix. 2nd easiest is just cutting the wires off of the switch and connecting them together, but then you run the risk that your parents risked - being able to crank the starter without having your foot on the clutch.  That should have been a 15 minute fix, at most, in terms of labor. The grommet is easily replaced by any random rubber grommet, or the above-mentioned penny and tape. If they claimed they had to remove the clutch to fix it, OP not only got raped, but got raped without lube or a reach-around. The switch is attached to the pedal assembly. It's a $5 part, with about 5 minutes of labor (most shops have a 30 minute minimum on labor, billed in 15 minute increments, so it should have been the cost of the part, whatever markup they add to the part, and 30 minutes of labor). So at worst, MAYBE $100.
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Jan 22, 2015 14:08
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If it's a modulator that plugs in between the radio and antenna, then yes, sound quality will be miles ahead. I'm more shocked that a 2006 Lexus doesn't have an aux input from the factory. My 2006 econobox Saturn does. 
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Jan 23, 2015 23:23
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Mr Executive posted:Yeah, it's a modulator that hooks into the antenna line rather than transmitting through the air. I haven't looked into this stuff in a long time, and I didn't even know this was a thing. I really didn't want to gently caress around with an FM transmitter as those have always been terrible in the past. I've torn apart my dash before and the stereo is easy to remove, so it should be a breeze to install. Even thought I'll be hardwired in now, I wasn't sure if there's a low ceiling for sound quality coming in through the antenna signal (or if radio quality is just low because that is what is broadcast). It won't quite be CD quality, but it'll be about like you're listening to a radio station while sitting close to the tower. Better than a typical radio station. I can't find anything about it being tied into the security (it may have a security light that flashes on it, at the most), but you'd definitely lose the navigation if you replaced it (though there's plenty of aftermarket head units that support navigation). According to Crutchfield, you need over $200 worth of adapters to retain factory functions and connect to the amps, since you have the Mark Levinson package: 
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Jan 24, 2015 07:23
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Friar Zucchini posted:I bought a 2001 Suburban 2500 a few weeks ago and I noticed something about the transmission that I thought was kinda weird. It's technically a conventional 4-speed automatic but the torque converter is so mushy that it basically acts like a CVT - the engine spins up and just chills at whatever RPM, and then it drops down a notch when it shifts. Is this what people mean when they talk about a "high stall speed" or what? No. That's what people mean when they talk about "slipping transmission". What happens if you stand on the throttle? The RPMs should rise linearly with the speed at WOT, and drop accordingly with gear shifts. I can understand a high stall torque converter describing SOMEWHAT SIMILAR to what you describe at part throttle, but stock, it shouldn't be doing that.
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Jan 25, 2015 13:43
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My own questions. My car (2006 Saturn Ion, 2.2L, 5 speed manual - mechanically it's a Cobalt with a different clutch master cylinder) has been having occasional "slightly difficult to start" issues. I don't mean "crank it for 20 seconds to start", I mean "has to crank for up to 5 seconds, then coughs to life, idles very low and rough for a few seconds". The majority of the time, it takes less than 1 second of cranking to start it, and it settles into a normal idle immediately during normal starts. The ECU controls the starter, so I just have to flick the key to get it to start - I literally have no control over the starter once it starts cranking unless I take my foot off the clutch or shut off the ignition switch (I can even hold it in start as long as I want, but once the ECU has detected it's running, the starter shuts off). But I've noticed it's happening more and more frequently. Any ideas? It's the Ecotec L61. It only occurs when the engine is warm, which has me thinking either a cam or crank position sensor may be failing. The only stored code is related to poor thermostat performance (it's stuck partially open, but this started long before the thermostat got stuck). Also how the gently caress do you drain the manual gearbox on this thing, the drain plug is right up against the subframe.  Other question - when I look at stats with Torque for Android, I notice the long term fuel trims are actually negative, usually 5-8%. Dafuq? I've seen positive long term fuel trims with either bad O2 sensors or vacuum leaks, but never seen negative. MAF issue? Nothing to worry about? Injector leaking and jizzing all over the place? I've noticed audible pinging when it's really hot out, fairly sure it's related. tactlessbastard posted:My 2005 Civic VP 5 speed that I'm the only owner and driver of for all these 99k miles over the last 10 years threw up a CEL last week. I went by O'Reiley's and the fellow there said it was a bad O2 sensor, but he did say he couldn't tell with his unit if it was the upstream or downstream sensor. I installed a new upstream sensor because it was a hell of a lot cheaper and a lot easier to get to and this was going to be a kind of trial run for working on my own car. I know you've already figured out you got the wrong sensor, but any code reader should tell you which sensor it is, and if it's the heater circuit or if the sensor itself took a poo poo. Totalnewbie will know a lot more about if there's different responses and the science between different model sensors, since he actually works for a company that makes that kind of stuff. Swing by AutoZone, they'll be able to give you the exact list of codes. Since the light comes back on immediately after clearing codes, I'm betting on a bad heater in one of the sensors, or a bad wire going to one of the sensors. Generally it takes the ECU at least a couple of trips to confirm an O2 sensor isn't responding properly, but a bad heater (or bad heater circuit) will turn on the CEL pretty much immediately. Also, never buy the sensors that use crimp-on wires. Spend the extra  and get one with a proper plug. Also, check Rockauto.com for the part number for an NTK or Denso sensor (don't use Bosch on a Honda - I don't know what it is about them, but Honda ECUs absolutely hate Bosch O2 sensors), then price it on Amazon. Buy it from whichever is cheaper - with the plug attached. I'm personally a fan of NTK/Denso for O2 sensors in gYou're also way overdue for the timing belt replacement - not by mileage, but definitely by age. Get that done as soon as possible, budget about $500-600 for it and most of the day without a car. Fucknag posted:Couple items of weirdness on the MSP. First off, the drat brake light keeps coming on intermittently under braking. Just about any touch will do it when cold, as it warms up it progresses to needing moderate braking to trigger it. Some cars have a sensor on the brake proportioning valve (even my 1980 F-150 had such a sensor) - if one section has a leak, it will trigger the light. Checked for leaks lately? Uthor posted:Discount Tire is pretty competitive if you have one near you. Might also save hassle as you just drive in and they take care of everything instead of dealing with shipping. They're also known as America's Tire in some states, but either way, tires.com will show what the nearest location is. They're competitive, and if you balk at a price, they'll sometimes throw in road hazard for free. Free rotations, free air check, free flat repairs.. and that's even if you didn't buy the tires from them. totalnewbie posted:Aftermarket pricing is weird and if they both have four wires then they're both switching sensors. A widerange sensor will have at least 5 wires (and have a different sensor body). The pair of 4 wire Denso sensors in mom's Avalon would like to disagree with you. Wideband, 4 wire. The post cat seems to be a regular O2 sensor. Though that's an anomaly. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Jan 28, 2015 |
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Jan 28, 2015 08:11
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MomJeans420 posted:
If you haven't tried to start it since then, shine a flashlight in through the plug hole and see if you can see the pieces. But if it broke while it was running, or you've since tried to run it, any possible damage is long done - the porcelain would have been turned into dust pretty quickly, and may or may not have chewed a valve or valve seat on its way out. If you can see pieces, it's time to turn the engine over by hand until that cylinder is at TDC, then figure out a way to get the pieces out. If it's too late to look in there and see if the porcelain is still there (as in the engine has been run since then), you might want to do a compression test, but I would think (and hope) that it just got pulverized into dust and sent out the exhaust. That break looks pretty clean, which is why I'm worried it may have happened during plug removal. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 06:31
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I've had wheel bearings fail in a way that they just make a moaning sound while driving, and I've had them fail in a way that sounded like a giant can of marbles was being violently shaken. I've even had one fail only by making an occasional "click" for a few months (I thought it was a bad CV joint, since the boot was split), then it went to metal on metal grinding with the steering wheel shaking violently with no warning. They fail in different ways. That said, IIRC the power steering pump is on the drivers side, and Ford power steering pumps are notorious for getting noisy as they age (I can hear my stepdad's truck coming from over a block away). Think it could be the pump getting noisy? It would get louder if you're turning, but they can still make a loud whine just going straight.
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Jan 29, 2015 07:00
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My stupid question: Autovantage vs AAA? 1 year of Autovantage for up to 4 people is $70/yr, and covers 150 miles. 1 year of AAA Plus (100 miles) is about the same for one person, and it's $20-30 extra for each additional person. Every car in the house is north of 100k, and two of the three are past the 10 year mark. I can also put Autovantage on my Walmart credit card, as they sell memberships in-store. I just don't know anyone who's ever used Autovantage, while I've had plenty of calls with AAA. My own insurance only covers "towing to the nearest repair facility" if I select towing coverage; that's worthless to me, since 99% of the work on my car is done by myself (and I have only two shops that I trust to touch it otherwise). MomJeans420 posted:Is there any chance that happened as a defect in the spark plug, or is it almost guaranteed to be something happened that caused detonation? Maybe a fuel injector on its way out causing that cylinder to run way too lean? That spark plug doesn't show any signs of detonation that I can see; detonation usually shows cracks and/or browning of the porcelain around the center electrode, with damaged electrodes (pitting, melting, etc). Those electrodes look fine (aside from what looks like the center electrode being loose and possibly hitting the outer electrode), . I'd call it either a defective plug, or damage prior to installation (being dropped, etc). If anything, it looks like that cylinder was running rich - which you'd expect if it was misfiring. An oil change won't hurt at all - it's possible some dust worked its way past the rings -though most of it was likely pulverized into dust and sent out through the exhaust, and whatever made it past the rings is (hopefully) trapped in the oil filter. There's a chance it'll start burning some oil on that one cylinder, as there's a reasonable chance that chunks got caught at some point and may have scratched up the cylinder walls or damaged the rings. All you can do is just wait and see, to be honest. Just drive it and check the oil every time you fill up (which you should be doing anyway). I'd hang on to the plug and contact the manufacturer to let them know what happened, at the very least. I wouldn't count on them doing anything besides apologize, but you never know.
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Jan 29, 2015 11:31
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Hikaki posted:Does Autovantage offer DMV services in their offices? If not, I would go for AAA for that alone. All of my DMV stuff is done online whenever possible. There's a $2 convenience fee for renewing my registration online; new sticker shows up in the mail about a week and a half later. The last time I went to the DMV to renew my registration, I went early in the morning (8am). I was in and out in about 10 minutes. The last time I had to get a replacement title (lost the original one for my Altima), however, I had to go to a regional office. I was there about 45 minutes, but left with a replacement title in my hand. I could have done it by mail, but then I would have had to get a notary to certify some stuff, then wait several weeks... and I was wanting to trade it in the following week. Drivers license stuff isn't handled by the DMV here though, it's by the state DOT. You can renew once online (which I did for my last renewal), then the next time you have to go in to get a new photo. Then you can renew online again, rinse, repeat. You can also report address changes online. My drivers license photo is from 2004 
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Jan 30, 2015 09:37
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New question. My car just absolutely refuses to complete the EVAP test. It's been almost 3 months since I reset the ECU prior to smogging it (and I smogged it the moment it was down to 1 "not ready" readiness monitor). It has a code for poor thermostat performance that comes and goes, but the CEL has been off for over a week now (thanks to the unseasonably warm weather). I'm going to guess the ECU thinks "any stored thermostat codes = cannot complete EVAP test", since it's been run through several tanks of gas and well over 2000 miles - 30+ minutes of highway driving, nonstop city driving, plenty of idling, you name it, it's seen it. Ideas? It passes smog fine with 1 incomplete, but I'd like to get it back to everything showing complete.some texas redneck posted:Other question - when I look at stats with Torque for Android, I notice the long term fuel trims are actually negative, usually 5-8%. Dafuq? I've seen positive long term fuel trims with either bad O2 sensors or vacuum leaks, but never seen negative. MAF issue? Nothing to worry about? Injector leaking and jizzing all over the place? I've noticed audible pinging when it's really hot out, fairly sure it's related. Slavvy and I have bounced ideas via IM over this, he's suggesting a dirty or damaged MAF. I'm thinking the same now. A brand new OEM MAF is $50 from Amazon. I can't really think of anything else that would cause the ECU to think the engine is running rich - a failing O2 sensor usually makes it think it's running lean. Any arguments in either direction? I'm going to the junkyard soon anyway (mom's car needs a couple of interior trim parts, stepdad's truck needs a new center console cover, boss's car needs a new front bumper), and this same part number has been used on pretty much every GM made since 2005 - so finding a temporary replacement would be trivial. I can honestly say I have a Corvette MAF on my car.... 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:46 on Jan 30, 2015 |
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Jan 30, 2015 10:37
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PaintVagrant posted:After a lot of swearing and not a single screw removed, I had a twisted phillips bit and just said gently caress it, rotors look ok. Hosed em down with brake cleaner, installed the pads, took it for a few drives to bed them, everything seems fine. I will re-address the rotors when the weather is a little better. Just drill them out and forget they ever existed. On Hondas, they exist solely to hold the rotors on during assembly at the factory.
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Feb 2, 2015 07:05
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Cellular Suicide posted:2003 Subaru Forester X auto, 146,xxx miles. Yes to all of the above. The miles alone suggest the rings are going to be fairly worn. They wear, there's no way around it. As long as the compression is within ~5-10% across all cylinders, even if it's on the low side, I'd just keep an eye on the oil and drive it. If you're that attached to the car, I'd personally wait until oil consumption is enough to cause visible smoke before tearing into it. And at that point I'd consider a low mileage used engine, personally. Jamal (and many others) can chime in about how picky Subaru engines are about rebuilds. Discombobulator posted:Tires. I need 'em. I got a 2011 Civic LX, 45k miles. I want the cheapest tires that don't suck for Ordinary Driving. I live in the south, so rain and potholes are the only major hazards I face on a regular basis. If you have Discount Tire in your area, check with them. The cheapest tires for my car were Ohtsu - which is Falken's parent company. They were cheap (cheapest tires available for my car actually), they're quieter than the tires I had before, and they seem to handle and wear fine. I don't expect them to last more than 35k, but for what I paid ($55/ea in 205/55R16), I'm happy with them. Kumho makes a fantastic tire for the price, and is usually my go-to brand if I want anything beyond the cheapest tire I can find. Koaxke posted:I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with a 4 cylinder engine. My car knowledge is fairly minimal. You can do the "minor tuneup" yourself - it's just a set of spark plugs and a new air filter. The plugs will be the most expensive part - you'll need Denso Iridium plugs if you want to stick with the original equipment plugs, but you can order them from Rockauto.com for much less than the dealer will charge you (probably $8/ea if I had to guess from Rockauto, and I'd guess at least 2x from the dealer). May even be able to find them at AutoZone. NGK plugs are a perfectly appropriate replacement, and easier to find locally (AutoZone carries pretty much their full line) - just stick with iridium plugs if you want to stick with the factory maintenance schedule. Platinum plugs are much cheaper, but iridium plugs will last longer, and are what your car came with from the factory. The "injection service" is probably a bottle of fuel injector treatment added to the tank. Induction service is probably just cleaning the throttle body, which is pretty easy to do with nothing more than a couple of hand tools, paper towels, and brake cleaner (assuming the throttle body doesn't need to be recalibrated). You should change the coolant at this point, it would be a good idea to change the automatic transmission fluid (just a drain/fill, not a full flush), and changing the PS fluid wouldn't be a bad idea. Honestly, the hardest part of this will be changing the transmission fluid, if you want to actually flush it and not just drain what's in the transmission pan (which is roughly 1/3 of what the entire transmission holds). $900 is about what I'd expect a dealer to charge; a good independent shop should about half. The only criticals would be the coolant and spark plugs, IMO, closely followed by the transmission fluid. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Feb 3, 2015 |
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Feb 3, 2015 09:38
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Koaxke posted:Thanks for the input everyone. I've never gone anywhere but the dealership to have my car serviced. What should I look for to find a good independent shop? Should I use Yelp? Are there any other good services that would provide legit reviews of the shop? Yelp is generally a good resource for small shops, IMO. There's also Car Talk's Mechanics Files, which is how I found my first independent shop (that was 18 years ago, and I still send anyone with a Honda or Acura to them. I'm also still using a spinoff of that shop - the owner's son-in-law opened his own shop a few years back). I found the son-in-law's shop on Yelp by pure chance - I'd moved to a different city, and was looking through Yelp to find a shop to get a wheel bearing replaced. Saw his name pop up, went "wait, that name sou.. no way, that can't be Jason.. *pulls up website* gently caress, it is Jason!". The review I left for his shop got me my first Review of the Day on Yelp too.  He has all 5 star reviews, except for a single 1 star, and he's tried reaching out to them several times to find out what went wrong and what he can do to make it right. He can't find their name in his customer files, so he's fairly sure it's just a fake review.Anyway, it'd be best to find a shop that works on Subarus in particular; if there's one in your area. At the least, I'd avoid the big chain shops (Firestone [nothing against you, 13 Inch], Goodyear, etc).
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Feb 4, 2015 08:09
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Additionally to that, if PuTTY riot has an aftermarket stereo, they can just connect to the amp remote turn on wire from the stereo, assuming the part they're adding doesn't consume more than a few hundred mA.
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Feb 4, 2015 18:43
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Toadstool posted:
You probably have to order the bezel. If you have a self service junkyard nearby, you can rip apart just about any cluster to get that piece of plastic. Or find a same generation Camry and pull the cluster apart to get the bezel. If you don't mind transparent green, I have some plastic that's about half of the thickness that's meant for photography (I got a sample pack and cut them down to use with my flashes) - you could fold it over itself a few times to make it thicker/darker. Or maybe get a scrap of darkish window tint and a green LED? PuTTY riot posted:I have the following: Honestly, if you're going through this much trouble, why not just get a cheap aftermarket head unit? Crutchfield includes installation instructions and everything you need to install it on most stereos over $100. This one would be great if you don't want an actual CD player, while this is the cheapest decent brand CD player with Bluetooth. If you have the Bose factory system you may need some extra adapters; you can tell their website what options you have and it'll figure out what you need. (hint: if it has onstar, it's long dead, as a 2001 model relied on analog cell towers - so you can likely get by without any Onstar adapters - double check with them to be sure though). The only way you'll be able to get it to power cycle with the stereo is if the stereo has a provision for a power antenna (it likely doesn't); even if you do find an unused wire meant for that, it may switch off whenever it's playing a tape. If you're dead set on keeping the factory stereo (WHY?!), just get a cheap switch and mount it to the dash somewhere. But I'd just replace the whole stereo, personally. You're already tearing into the dash in some way at this point anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 08:38
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Raluek posted:True. Measured at the battery (there is some loss in the wiring, so it might be higher at the alternator itself) it shouldn't go more than 15V. Overcharging points to a bad connection, a bad wire, or a failing voltage regulator. It can also point at a bad ground to the alternator (yeah I know this falls into bad connection, but still). The alternator usually grounds through the engine block, so it's a good idea to check the engine-to-body ground strap/wire for corrosion. Every modern car I know of has the voltage regulator built into the alternator itself, so if there's a flaky ground, it thinks the output voltage is too low, and bumps it up to compensate. Next thing you know, you have 18 volts. The same thing also happens if the negative battery terminal connection is making poor contact. antiga posted:Hi thread. My 03 Camry XLE broke down last weekend, It's worth repairing, but not at dealer rates. Also, tell whoever was driving to pay more attention to the temp gauge - head gaskets very rarely fail without some form of overheating involved, and they would have noticed a pretty decent loss in power long before it got to the point of dying. More than likely a hose failed and dumped all the coolant - usually you get a ton of steam from under the hood when it happens, but at highway speeds it likely just went under the car (but the smell of coolant should have come in through the vents unless the climate control was on recirculate). I'd consider $1700 to be rather high for a head gasket job on a 4 cylinder, but at the same time, if it got hot enough to seize, there's a reasonable chance the head will need work, and the possibility that the bottom end of the engine (everything below the head) may need work too. At $1700, you could spend a little bit more and get a used engine dropped in. If it's the V6 model, then that's ... a little high, but reasonable. You didn't mention which engine, so I'm assuming it's the 4 cylinder. Also, there is no "timing chain motor". That engine does have a timing chain, but it's driven by the engine itself (the chain connects the camshafts to the crankshaft). It's good practice to replace the tensioner for it while it's apart, and with the miles it has, it won't hurt to replace the chain itself (especially after being overheated so badly) - it's likely stretched a bit over the years. A lot of engines run the water pump off of the timing belt or timing chain (your engine has a chain) - I don't know if your engine runs the pump from the chain, but if it does, it's also good practice to replace the water pump anytime you touch the timing chain. It's more of a "it's an extra 30 minutes of labor to do it while it's already apart, versus 8 hours of labor if it fails later" things that adds a (relatively speaking) small amount to the bill. If it were my car, I'd get it fixed, replace all of the cooling system hoses, and not let anyone drive it until you tell them how important the temperature gauge is. Obviously, figure out why it overheated to begin with. Likely a split hose, but it could also have been a cracked radiator. A sudden failure would probably be a hose, unless you've been smelling coolant for awhile. Panda Time posted:I'm interested in a used 4runner, and want to have my mechanic inspect one at a persons house. Did the owner tell you this had happened? The vast majority of car owners will have no idea this has happened until the transmission starts acting up. And no, there really won't be any way to tell easily, the only indication would be a brand new radiator, or brand new transmission cooler in front of it. If the coolant has been changed on schedule, it's possible it's on the original radiator, and never had the pink milkshake. The transmissions don't last very long after drinking a strawberry milkshake, for what it's worth. Also, even if it hasn't happened, at 250k, unless it's all highway miles, the transmission is likely getting pretty tired. I'd keep enough saved up for a used transmission either way. As long as it's not the old 3.0 V6, I'd probably buy it (avoid the 3.0 at all costs - all the power of the 4 cylinder, with the mileage of a V8, and an appetite for head gaskets that makes Subarus with massive turbos jealous - the 3.0 was replaced with a much better 3.4 V6 late in the 1995 model year). Expect plenty of oil leaks no matter what engine it has. If it's old enough to be a 4 cylinder, that engine will still be running long after everyone on this forum is dead, as long as the timing chain guides get replaced every decade. I've never experienced the 3.4 in person, but if it's anything like most Toyota engines (barring the 3.0's appetite for head gaskets, and the 22RE's appetite for timing chain guides), it'll be pissing oil everywhere for most of its life, but will run forever with just basic maintenance. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Feb 6, 2015 |
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Feb 6, 2015 12:35
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e: ^^^^ beaten, but a coat hanger is a bit on the thick side to fit. Works fantastic on factory Ford stereos though. You can, it's just kind of a pain. If you built your own PC, or you're comfortable enough inside your PC to remove a couple of covers, remove a couple of the expansion slot covers from the back panel. They should work - they're slightly thicker and wider, but should slide in with a bit more effort compared to the original keys. The keys are just thin sheet metal, and all they do is shove a couple of tabs to the side to release the stereo. If you have tin snips, cut them in half (lengthwise) to make it easier. If not, they're a couple of bucks on ebay. $8 on Amazon with shipping (and qualify for Prime). Also, if you used a mounting kit instead of a single DIN dash opening, just remove the mounting kit with the stereo attached. You'll be able to see where the cage locks the head unit in place, and can easily open it enough to remove the stereo with just your fingernails or a couple of small flathead screwdrivers. If you're removing it to replace it with another stereo, Pioneer uses a similar removal key, pretty sure Alpine's is similar as well.
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Feb 6, 2015 12:57
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Honestly, anything thin that will slide into the slots will work. They should be dead center between the top and bottom, once you remove the trim ring (which should just pop off with a little prying). Expansion slot covers are just the first thing that come to mind, since they're an easy way to get ahold of long skinny pieces of sheet metal. If they're not totally flat, you'll probably need to use tin snips to cut them in half. Basically anything at least 4 inches long that's thin and sturdy enough to slide into the slots will work (that eliminates CSB from this round). No bass sounds like some speakers may be wired backwards - if you have two speakers, and one is wired backwards, you get funky sound and no bass (nor much midrange) at all. If four speakers, two are out of phase. If it's a head unit you didn't install, it's very possible the PO wired it up wrong. Aftermarket speakers do seem to give a bit less bass compared to factory IMO, but also sound far better overall. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Feb 6, 2015 |
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Feb 6, 2015 13:38
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Only if the sockets are exposed to the elements (very few are). It's just dielectric grease, nothing more. I got a manager at AutoZone fired for his hard-sell "bulb grease" sales technique awhile back. He pulled out a big box of burned out bulbs and said they all burned out because no bulb grease was used on them, and that bulb grease was used to cool the bulbs. He also said my information was "loving stupid" when I told him what bulb grease really was. It helps that Texas is a one party consent state for recording audio, and I raised a pretty massive stink with corporate over it.
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Feb 7, 2015 12:51
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