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Henrik Zetterberg posted:I'm picking up the 55" version of this today on Amazon. v The 2012 versions were announced at ces. Id wait for them to be listed as it should bring down the price of the d series.
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| # ? Dec 7, 2025 16:24 |
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Don Lapre posted:The 2012 versions were announced at ces. Id wait for them to be listed as it should bring down the price of the d series. It dropped $200 overnight and I pulled the trigger yesterday. Already submitted 2 refund requests for their 14-day price guarantee. For some reason, the 8000 was $50 cheaper than the 7900 Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Jan 24, 2012 |
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Panasonic tech just dropped off my TC-P46ST30 after deciding my issue was a defective A board. He did his thing at the shop and now it functions perfectly, as an added bonus the new A board came with the fluctuating brightness fix. This TV is glorious now that it's all fixed up and I'm glad I decided to swing the $30 difference between 42" and 46".
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I'm in the market for a bigger TV. I currently have an older Sharp 42" LCD from ~4 years ago, and while it's still a perfectly fine TV set for actually watching TV, my new living situation means I'm sitting farther away than I used to be (10' vs. 6' previously), and text on my HTPC doesn't display that well and ends up hurting my eyes after a while. I'll probably just end up getting another sat box and move it to my room. I'm a fan of Sharp but not married to the brand. I've been looking at this Sony model: http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product...179&StoreId=972 and it pretty much seems to do everything I want. I don't really care about the online connectivity (because I already have an HTPC) so no wireless doesn't bother me, and I have a 3D monitor for my computer so 3D on a TV isn't something I absolutely want/need. I'll have 3 HDMI devices to hook up (sat box, HTPC and also a PS3 I plan on buying soon) and also a turntable via red/white stereo cables, which I won't be able to do with my current cheapo 5.1 computer speakers (right now, only the HTPC and turntable are hooked up to them because there are no available inputs--sat box is using the TV's speakers). There's a cheapish Sony home theatre set I was looking at to remedy that. Anyone have experience with these two items?
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I've had this TV since 2006: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-LN-S4095D-40-Inch-1080p-HDTV/dp/B000GDEZLQ Today, something weird happened with the speakers: I get this pop/crackling sound, the kind you'd hear from a radio with bad reception or an old TV that can't handle the volume. It occurs mainly when people are talking, even at a low volume setting. Since this is clearly out of warranty, I called Samsung, which provided me with the number for an electronics shop that fixes these TVs. I have to wait until tomorrow to get an estimate, but I'm preparing for a bullshit rate. To that end, I'm considering doing what I was planning for a while: invest in a 3D LED. Problem is, I can't afford it all at once, so I want to purchase it at a place that offers a no finance, no interest plan. I'm planning to visit Best Buy tomorrow to see what they're offering, since I set up a card with them last year for my iPad 2. Plus, when my parents bought a TV from them, they sent a guy to calibrate it for free. But based on what I've seen, they're about a thousand dollars more than what Amazon charges, who is also offering an Amazon Store Card that also provides 24 months no interest on qualifying products. I still want to see if I can establish a friendly chat with a salesman to see what he's offering. But right now, I'd like to get some recommendations on an LED (3D isn't a priority, but if there isn't that big a price difference...) that would be used for gaming (all consoles, including PC) and movies. Somewhere around 45-55 inches, affordable (under $3000, preferably under $2000 if possible) but not lovely. Edit: So far this seems to be the best bet: http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-VIERA-TC-P55VT30-55-inch-Plasma/dp/B004NPP152/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327636853&sr=8-1 Never had a plasma (or Panasonic), but the reviews have been very high and general opinions place it above Samsung. Double Edit: I'm actually being convinced to go with DLPs instead. Cheaper, better image quality (just not as deep blacks, but the tradeoff is reportedly worth it), and they come in crazy Godzilla sizes: http://www.hhgregg.com/mitsubishi-73-3d-1080p-120hz-dlp-hdtv/item/WD73640 Primoman fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Jan 27, 2012 |
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Primoman posted:
Does this static occur only when using the built-in speakers, or is it also apparent in the headphone jack? Because if it's just the speakers or speaker amp that's going bad, I see no reason to put yourself in debt to some credit company when you might as well get a used pair of computer speakers from goodwill and plug those in instead - and probably get better sound than you had previously.
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Doesn't occur with headphones. You bring up an interesting idea with the speakers, but will they also have to be plugged into the headphone jack? I don't want to add more clutter if I have to constantly switch between speakers and headphones, and I don't want to have to adjust the volume of the speakers independently either.
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Primoman posted:Double Edit: I'm actually being convinced to go with DLPs instead. Cheaper, better image quality (just not as deep blacks, but the tradeoff is reportedly worth it), and they come in crazy Godzilla sizes: http://www.hhgregg.com/mitsubishi-73-3d-1080p-120hz-dlp-hdtv/item/WD73640 ![]() Also the specs say it doesn't do 1080p, only 1080i max. Kind of a bummer considering the 73" screen size. I've never seen a rear-projection TV that looks good, even new ones, but don't know about this model specifically. There's a good reason (or two) this technology is out of style (if it was ever in style). You get a lot of screen for the price, but you will trade image quality to get it.
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Primoman posted:Doesn't occur with headphones. The speakers' volume will be controlled by only the tv if they are not powered speakers, they will be controlled by a combo of the tv volume and the speakers' amplification/volume level if they are independently powered (i.e. require an a/c outlet). (edit: but you can set the speaker level to something that never changes and then only adjust using the TV volume, it's just that the overall distortion at higher volumes is affected by both sets of amplification so be wary setting either too high if you go this route) You can probably find speakers that hook into the audio output jacks in the back of the tv if you don't want clutter in the front/side headphone jack(s). edit: Now that I've typed it out I don't even know if 'jack' is the right word for connection so that's what I mean in case that's local slang or something mr. nobody fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Jan 28, 2012 |
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Well I decided not to go through with purchasing a replacement TV (came very close, though...they offered me this one for $1800. It wasn't the right time, money-wise, and it's a much cheaper alternative to just use my home theater or a pair of affordable speakers. And on the latter, I could use a recommendation for a decent pair. Doesn't have to be something booming, just whatever can carry stereo sound across a small room, sounds decent. Preferably in the $20 range.
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Primoman posted:feed me info i can't internet Here's a start if you aren't satisfied please refine your own search on amazon.com using my starting keywords 'rca speaker set'. http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-S220-Speaker-System-Subwoofer/dp/B000RQSGYO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1327729018&sr=8-3 Left and right connections = red and white audio output connections on back of TV, check to be sure you have audio output not all TVs do
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I don't really need an extra subwoofer, since I own a home theater, as mentioned before. Also, I should have also mentioned that I've found splitters for the headphone jack that go for like a dollar on Amazon, so that's no longer a concern either. That said, if you still recommend this particular set....
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Hours later I realize that set I linked doesn't have the connection you would need anyway. You'll just have to look around sorry, find the type of audio out on the back of your TV first to see what connections you'll need to narrow your search by. I'm not recommending anything I'm not even close to an expert as noted above.
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I might be taking the plunge on a 64" Series 8 Samsung plasma tomorrow. JB Hi-fi have a 10% off sale at the moment, bringing it down to $2,600 from $2,900. My first flatscreen!
modeski fucked around with this message at 12:03 on Jan 28, 2012 |
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My UN55D8000 was delivered yesterday. I can't believe how goddamn thin this thing is. Having basically no bezel is ridiculously sexy too.
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:My UN55D8000 was delivered yesterday. I can't believe how goddamn thin this thing is. Having basically no bezel is ridiculously sexy too. I loving love that TV. Whenever I'm in Best Buy for anything I just sit there and stare at it.
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What are the best Blu-Ray players for the buck right now? My TV has Wifi capability if that matters.
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:My UN55D8000 was delivered yesterday. I can't believe how goddamn thin this thing is. Having basically no bezel is ridiculously sexy too. I just bought a UN55D6500 and it's amazing looking I was going to get the Bravia I posted a few days ago here but ended up getting the Samsung and I don't regret that decision at all Also got an Onkyo HTS3400 system to go with it and I think I'm finally happy with my home theatre setup. And finally done spending money too
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EDIT: Welp, bought a Samsung! Hooray impulse buys!
The Dave fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jan 30, 2012 |
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First time cutting drywall to run cables. Love how it turned out. Totally managed not to mangle my wall or saw through my water pipe (shower is behind the wall).
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but a couple years ago I purchased a TV stand for my 50" plasma. The stand has the vertical bar to mount the television, but I kept it on the top shelf. I want to mount it now but I misplaced the mounting hardware that came with the stand (that you attach to the TV). I'm guessing this hardware is proprietary to the stand, and I can't find the stand on the Wal-Mart site anymore. All I remember about it is that you attached it to the TV and there were metal hooks that secured it to the stand. Is there any way I can find replacement hardware?
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So I got the Samsung UE40D5000 yesterday, and overall I'm pretty pleased with it. PC Connectivity is perfect, no overscan, perfect 1:1 and motion blur is practically non-existent. Only qualms are light patches on the screen from the lighting, most noticeable in the corners and towards the middle when playing dark games (Dead Space 2) or watching movies with a non-16:9 aspect ratio. It also took me forever to configure the brightness and contrast and when it's in PC mode you can't change the colour saturation, I ended up abandoning the TV menu after setting the Backlight and using the nVidia control panel to set brightness/contrast/gamma/digital vibrance. Viewing angle is also fantastic with no loss of image no matter what angle you're viewing the screen from (although it does get more washed out, you can still see everything). Overall I'm happy, but I'm open for tips on getting rid of the cloudy white patches if there are any.
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Can anyone recommend a quality Digital TV Converter Box?
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On another note... I have a Monster PowerCenter similar to this, http://www.monstercable.com/product...y.asp?pin=4445, the other night the power at my house turned off and then on again right away. Everything rebooted, however my Time Capsule has had an flashing amber light ever since. It says the disk needs repair, after some research it sounds like the hard drive is shot. Has anyone had any experience with filing a claim under Monster's Equipment warranty? How does it work? What are my chances of them covering my Time Capsule? That is the point of these PowerCenters after all...
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Just purchased a Samsung PN64D8000 should be delivered next week. I just feel sorry for the delivery people since I live on the 3rd floor
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Giblet posted:Just purchased a Samsung PN64D8000 should be delivered next week. I just feel sorry for the delivery people since I live on the 3rd floor My 55 was surprisingly lighter than I thought it would be. I was even able to wall-mount it by myself.
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The glare on my plasma is starting to get to me, so I'm considering switching to an led. It's proving to be a huge pain in the rear end to find one that's backlit with a matte screen. The only one I've been able to find is the Vizio XVT3 which would be perfect, except Vizio don't want to sell their stuff in Australia. Anyone know of any others?
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I'm going to buy a new HDTV, a blu ray player and plan on using my existing stereo. Here is how I plan on connecting everything, please let me know if there are any flaws in this: blu ray player HDMI out -> HDTV HDMI in HDTV optical audio (SPDIF) out -> stereo optical audio (SPDIF) in Will this play the picture on the HDTV and output the sound (once configured) to the stereo? My stereo has no HDMI connections (Onkyo TX-SR501 ).
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Need some advice/assistance, please. My wife and I are looking to finally get an HDTV for downstairs. We're looking for something about 32", 720p okay, and she's keen to the idea of getting an LED TV. We were thinking of something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32D4003-32-Inches-720p-Black/dp/B004VRJ3EW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1328063162&sr=1-2, however I noticed it only has a component input, no composite. The problem here is I want to hook up my N64 and NES to it, which both use composite inputs. Our DVD player does too (DVD/VCR combo), and I don't know if HDMI is going to be any good for that. My question is, are there any LED TVs in our size range that have composite and component inputs? I've scoured Google and found little, outside of a Vizio LCD. Most shots don't show the back so I can see the inputs. If there are none, is there any device that I can hook all the devices into, plug it into the component hookups on the TV, and switch between them as needed? Thanks for any help!
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BlueArmyMan posted:If there are none, is there any device that I can hook all the devices into, plug it into the component hookups on the TV, and switch between them as needed? Do you use cable? Check the back of your cable box, maybe that could be the input for the older game systems.
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mr. nazi posted:I'm going to buy a new HDTV, a blu ray player and plan on using my existing stereo. You will definitely get stereo. If it passes 5.1dd/dts depends on the tv. Lgs do I believe as well as samsungs. This is how mine is setup btw.
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Don Lapre posted:You will definitely get stereo. If it passes 5.1dd/dts depends on the tv. Lgs do I believe as well as samsungs. This is how mine is setup btw. This is an acceptable worst-case scenario (stereo) thank you!
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mr. nazi posted:Do you use cable? Check the back of your cable box, maybe that could be the input for the older game systems. We do use cable, digital cable through Comcast, and I never even thought of that. I will have to check that out, thanks
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Don Lapre posted:You will definitely get stereo. If it passes 5.1dd/dts depends on the tv. Lgs do I believe as well as samsungs. This is how mine is setup btw. My Samsung doesn't. I think it depends on what product line it is - the higher tiers usually have it.
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:My Samsung doesn't. I think it depends on what product line it is - the higher tiers usually have it. Yea, our 4000 which id guess is mid teir has an option in the settings for spdif output that lets you set the pass through poo poo. Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Feb 1, 2012 |
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I have a two year old 32" Samsung 720p television that I'm looking to sell. How can I determine a good asking price? Edit - Model LN32B460 $350? eightysixed fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Feb 2, 2012 |
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eightysixed posted:I have a two year old 32" Samsung 720p television that I'm looking to sell. How can I determine a good asking price? Looks like amazon has some used for $400, so 350 sounds fair. I would expect a bunch of "would you take 250/300/original xbox and 30 games" offers if you list it at 350 though.
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I've been working on a new OP for an HDTV thread, if the mods and people of this forum are cool with it. At this point the OP of this thread is just hilariously out of date, being just shy of a half decade old at this point. Just about none of the information is actually relevant to modern TV shopping (see: all of the space dedicated to RPTVs, 1080i, LCoS lol). I should have it finished in a day or two.
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BlueArmyMan posted:We do use cable, digital cable through Comcast, and I never even thought of that. I will have to check that out, thanks Hey I'm researching one final time for my own purchase and I came across a Panasonic 40" model LED tv that in the specs page on bestbuy.com says one composite input: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Panasonic+-+42%22+Class+/+LED+/+1080p+/+60Hz+/+Smart+HDTV/2097053.p?id=1218309069327&skuId=2097053 The edit2: they make a 32 and 37" version mr. nobody fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Feb 4, 2012 |
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| # ? Dec 7, 2025 16:24 |
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mr. nazi posted:Hey I'm researching one final time for my own purchase and I came across a Panasonic 40" model LED tv that in the specs page on bestbuy.com says one composite input: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Panasonic+-+42%22+Class+/+LED+/+1080p+/+60Hz+/+Smart+HDTV/2097053.p?id=1218309069327&skuId=2097053 That is great info to have, thanks!
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