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I just sold my old 27" 4:3 Samsung CRT HD set for $300, and am looking at 37" LCDs in the $600-$800 range, preferrably erring on the lower end. That leaves me looking at sets by budget manufacturers such as Syntax Olevia, Polaroid, Westinghouse, etc. Right now I'm planning on pulling the trigger on the 337H, but the 537H is appealing in that it supposedly has a better video processor. Here is a page comparing the two: http://www.olevia.com/jsp/products/compare.jsp?pidFrom=537h&pidTo=337H The most obvious things are the video processor and the fact that it has more component inputs, meaning I can ditch my cheap component switcher, finally. I watch a decent amount of standard-def TV, so if the video processor on the 537H is superior for that, I'm all for it. I don't really know what the differences between the two are - I've always heard that scaler quality is the biggest difference and that would directly impact the SDTV content, right? The 537H is $90 more expensive before the rebate on the 337H and $140 with the rebate factored in. However I'm willing to spend a bit more now if people with more experience think it's worth it. I've also seen the 537H on a less reputable looking store for $650! Thanks in advance.
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| # ¿ Dec 15, 2025 01:15 |
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Minto Took posted:So is there a technology or brand of HDTV in which SDTV isn't displayed like rear end? A lot of my favorite channels (like I'm guessing many of everyone else's favorite channels as well) aren't in HD or have a suitable variant. The nicer TVs have better scalers that don't destroy SD, from what I've heard.
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I just ordered the Olevia 537H 37" LCD set for $745 shipped. Fingers crossed it gets here undamaged. I'll post my impressions once it gets here, hopefully by Friday (but I doubt it). I'm migrating from a Samsung CRT HD set so I'm concerned the black levels will irritate me. I'm going to have to upgrade to unlimited Usenet access now... just to support all the HD content I'll be downloading to watch from my HTPC. ShaneB fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Mar 27, 2007 |
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Man, my new LCD won't get here until Monday. I was hoping to have time to set it up and show it off this weekend during my cookout.
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How much power does the average 37" LCD take to operate, specifically compared to a 27" CRT? I know each set is different, but are LCDs cheap to leave on? Is there any danger of doing so? I'd like to have my 37" LCD on most of the time when people are home, acting as a photo frame displaying photographs from Flickr. This also gets around the 10-12 second boot-up time of the Olevia. Any opinions?
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pickitup13 posted:Any input is really appreciated because I don't really have anyone to go to with questions about this sort of thing. At this point, I almost feel like there has to be something I'm missing because $1100 for a 40" Samsung is a really great deal (assuming it has the quality of all the other samsung's on the market). You could always look at the Olevia 537H for $740 shipped, at Mwave. They are supposed to be excellent for the price.
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I did something stupid.... I ordered a DVI->HDMI adapter, and THEN an DVI-HDMI cable instead of the regular old HDMI cable I wanted.... sigh. Now I have a totally useless adapter, as I doubt I'll ever have two HTPCs running at once to two different HD sets.
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I got my Olevia 537H today and I'm very impressed, especially with its performance as a monitor for my HTPC. It came without any damage and looks better than I anticipated. It's not a gray like most pictures show it to be, it's a nice black. The picture is set up pretty well out of the box, but I had to adjust the brightness and contrast a bit. Blacks aren't as deep as they were on my CRT HD set, but colors are gorgeous and the lack of any distortion is great. The sharpness from the HTPC is impeccable. Loading up 720p content is awesome, and I've just been sitting looking at photos from the Slickr screensaver for a half hour or so. It makes me a bit dissapointed with the HD content from my cable provider - it seems a bit blurry compared to the same content on a 27" screen, but that's life. SDTV isn't great but it's as watchable as it ever was. I have one stuck pixel that's only noticable on an all-black screen, and no dead pixels as far as I can tell. All in all I'm extremely pleased with the set, and this is coming from a guy who still has a CRT monitor because he's so anal about his color gamut.
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JayKay posted:Just purchased a Olevia 32" Series 2 from Circuit City for $599. Was this a good buy and should I go ahead and get the upgraded warranty? Well since we have been discussing TVs here for pages, you could have, you know, checked before you bought. I just bought a 37" Olevia for $740 shipped, so... is a bigger set for probably $100 more than you paid, after tax, worth it? Depending on your set the 537H I got may also have a better scaler and have a tuner as well. Olevia is a budget brand, plain and simple. I got mine for the cost and convienence as a HTPC screen - not necessarily to be the most amazing screen ever.
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JayKay posted:Yeah, I'm aware it's a budget brand, which is why I'm wondering if I should get the CC extended warranty thingamajig. I just wanted to know if the backlights on these have a tendency to burn out more quickly or if they like to randomly catch fire. I'd still take it back and get the 537H for $740 shipped.
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Undersold posted:I've been reading this thread and my head's a spinning! Maybe you dudes can help me out. We've seriously been talking about plenty of sets under $1,000 for pages, now.
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Undersold posted:Hey like I said, I'm really having a hard time understanding jargon in here. Anyway fair enough, if you guys have been talking about sets under a $1000.00 I'll go back and look through to see what you recommend price-wise. You won't find many plasma sets under $1,000, I don't believe. At that price range you are really going to be buying budget-brand LCD sets from Westinghouse, Vizio, Olevia, etc, and likely in the 720p resolution. It's probably in your best interests to examine things like number of connections, whether or not the set has a built-in tuner, etc, to see which will meet your needs best. Honestly I doubt there are significant screen quality differences between most of the sets in this price range. I just purchased an Olevia 537H for under $750. It met my needs, but is a budget set with all the limitations of one - clumsy input selection and contrast limitations being the most obvious.
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bull3964 posted:Composite cables cannot carry HD. You would need component, DVI, HDMI, or VGA to get an HD signal into the set. Just to avoid any confusion, composite CABLES can carry an HD signal just fine. If you use a classic Red/White/Yellow cable for your R/G/B component cable it will work. Composite as an audiovideo connection standard will NOT carry HD. I know that is what you were saying, but many people are noobs here and may be confused.
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My brother just got a new set, and has a 60" SXRD Sony KDS-60A2000 that just got a brand new optical block and a bulb with only a few months on it. He told me he would give it to me for a wedding present, but a 60" TV is just way too big for how small my current living room is - I sit about 5-6' away from the screen, and currently have a 37" LCD. I think a 47" is about the biggest I could get away with at that range. However, in about 18 months I'd like to be purchasing a house and can see a larger TV being a great thing. But that's 18 months away, when the SXRD is going to be pretty outdated, even more than it already is. Is the set good enough to hold on to for another 18 months and use then? I've honestly only seen it in action a few times, he lives in a different city. I'm trying to convince him to sell it and get me a new receiver with the proceeds....
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I saw my first 120hz TV in a store the other day and it just seemed... WEIRD. The store was playing the Transformers Blu-Ray, and it looked like it was in fast-forward but running at the same speed as the other sets. It didn't look smoother, it looked WRONG, like it was video instead of film. Is this a typical reaction to 120hz sets, or is this due to a bad implementation of the technology, or what?
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fahrvergnugen posted:Your reaction to motion interpolation / motion smoothing is not only normal, but also morally and ethically correct. Can you explain the difference? I mean I understand motion smoothing, of course, but what does 120hz ... "do"?
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Cop posted:We're looking to get a new television. Right now we have an old 27" tube television. We're looking to spend around $700-$800 and want it to be 40"-42" unless there is a decent television that's larger. LG 42LD550 is supposed to be insanely good for the money. Use my referral link if you buy it it would be rad http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/asin/B0039RSYQS/greatbiglie
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Omegaslast posted:Why? Its not local dimming LED. Plasma would blow it out of the water for LESS money. To be an rear end, if you dont know about "motionflow" frame interpolation with 120hz lcds then you probably shouldnt be dispensing suggestions for tvs. especially suggestions with HERE BUY IT FROM THIS REFERRAL LINK which usually means your advice is going to try and sell someone on a tv so you get x amount of money and not actually get them what they need Uhhh because plenty of AVSforum people speak great things about it and it being considered incredibly good for the money. Please feel free to provide your own suggestion for a plasma that meets his price criteria that you feel is superior. I was just trying to help and provided a link to a drat cheap price that would help us both out. Get over yourself.
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Fremry posted:There's no downside. I just bought the Panasonic P46ST30 because it's got one of the best 2D pictures. I have no intention of using the 3D part unless the glasses become really cheap. Would you say this is the best set under $1,000? I was looking at 42" but 46" isn't out of line for my living room.
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Fremry posted:CNET has is on their top 5 best TV's of 2011 (I think at #3) and it's the only one under $1000. Definitely go for the 46" if you decide to go with it. I got mine for $975 right when it came out with a corporate discount to Panasonic Direct. But no Viera connect... which I kind of really would like. The little box thing I use for Netflix kind of sucks.
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Honestly this is a lazy post but I'd love some initial recommendations, or at least category of recommendations, for a new set in the $1000-1250 range. I've been using an Olevia 37" that was $740 shipped in 2007, so it's time for an upgrade. Desires: - 42" smallest, maybe 47" biggest - I don't have a huge living room atm - 1080p - highest quality picture quality in the price/size range - decent, but not ridiculous, number of inputs - my receiver can handle switching - built in netflix and amazon prime streaming (netflix definitely, prime would be nice) - plays MKVs (is this even a thing any set does?) - tuner would be nice but not required - whatever is required to be able to turn off the thing that makes film look like video - thinner isn't really a big deal - 3D isn't required, especially if it adds on cost that I could put into better picture quality. Fun bonus, though, I guess. Sets I'm looking at: Samsung UN46D6500 LG Infinia 47LW5600 Sony KDL-55EX720 (if I want to go 55" baller or something)
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Since I watch a lot of streaming netflix content, I'm concerned about reading things like this in reviews: "Essentially the 120Hz judder reduction feature is not adjustable in the D6000. The ensuing picture from the D6000 has a soap opera effect without the depth created by natural background blur." Found on a review for the Samsung UN46D6000: http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/samsung-lcd-tv/samsung-un46d6000.html With all this judder reduction/120-240hz stuff out there, I'm pretty nervous about getting a set that will make my netflix or SDTV viewing look like video. How can I be sure a set won't have these issues?
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The Gunslinger posted:That review is incorrect, a friend of mine owns that TV and turning off that feature is one of the first things he did. Also, is it just me or do they hire models to read off a teleprompter for their reviews? I was confused because they explicitly say you CAN do it for HD content but SD content does not seem to allow for it. This is my area of consternation.
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My UN46D6400 just showed up yesterday. I chose the 6400 because it was well-reviewed and the first Samsung in the line that had the ultra-thin bezel. It was $100 more than the 6300, but also had 3D, so I felt I might as well pay the premium just for the futureproof-ness along with attractiveness. I am currently running some settings I found on AVS and it looks pretty drat good. Of course some flashlighting on the edges and also some banding if I really focus on it, but it's quite a pretty picture. I played Se7en and Incredibles on it in 1080p last night and was blown away by the details and the detailed blacks (especially on a film like Se7en). For $1100 I'm more than happy so far and further tweaking will only make it better, I think. Just wanted to report in for anyone looking for a set in that size and price range.
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| # ¿ Dec 15, 2025 01:15 |
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The Gunslinger posted:Samsung TVs usually have some silly setting related to energy saving that will mess with the brightness and contrast levels, I forget the name but you can google that and disable it. The ecological settings were disabled on my Samsung out of the box, but they have a setting called "Shadow Detail" that auto-dims the screen during dark scenes. The higher you raise the setting the less dimming that occurs. For dark games like Batman and such, I hear it's pretty bad. On my game inputs I keep it at the highest settings but for movies and TV I keep it in the middle. I rather like the settings a poster in AVSforum wrote up: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=21168629#post21168629 I have a 6400 set and the settings work well on that as well. My brother is sending me his Spyder for more critical calibration but for now I'm happy.
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