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evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

.Nathan. posted:

Unless he can give a legitimate reason as to why he needs an LCD, then a Pioneer Kuro PDP-5080HD is what you/he want.

Just as a second opinion for SecretFire, I agree with the suggestion of the Pioneer Kuro PDP-5080HD. Nothing else really comes close if you are looking at LCD's/Plasmas under $3K.

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evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Krinkle posted:

We just got a Phillips 47" 1080p LCD. We first used coax and got all the basic channels in HD. Then we got the special cablebox from cablevision, started swinging component, and got all the channels that are offered in HD that you don't have to pay extra for. Okay things are good but I have heard great things about HDMI and I want to clear up all these goddamned cables going all over the place.

I get an 1.3 hdmi cable from monoprice and everything is good until the next day when we notice that about 40% of the time when changing channels there is about a quarter of a second of a burp of static. My first reaction was "who cares" because HDMI was making the set a lot happier. The auto-format option didn't take eight seconds to decide anymore. Things looked better. But as time goes on that KCTCSHSHHHSH every other channel change is really kind of grating on my nerves. It didn't happen with component.

Is this a cablebox problem, or a tv problem? Or are the gods punishing me for my hubris in cutting out monster cables and going budget?

This is from a few pages back but I don't think anybody has answered you. The static is what gets displayed when a signal is being sent over hdmi but the hdcp handshake has not yet been completed. It could be either your tv or cable box causing this. My guess is that this is only happening when the channel you are changing to has a different resolution than the one you are currently on. This is causing either the tv or cable box to renegotiate the hdcp stream and while this happens you are getting this static. This can happen with any hdmi device that uses hdcp. In my experience, it is generally the TV though. I have seen this happen to just about every TV I have hooked up my PS3 to, including high end ones.

If you can force your cable box to upscale to only one resolution, this may be able to stop the problem.

evilalien fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Nov 29, 2007

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

zapateria posted:

Newbie question:

I went to the electronics store today to look for a HDTV. I immediately went over to the biggest and baddest I saw and it was playing the Ice Age DVD. Now, I assume DVD should be a reasonably high quality source, but the image, while mostly clear had some major artifacts. This appeared mostly on the subtitles and on edges of moving things. It looked grainy and had a clear shadow. I've seen this on plenty other TV's too with supposedly good sources. What causes this and what do I need to look for in a TV to avoid it?

On a HDTV, you are going to notice the compression artifacts on DVD's a lot more than on a SDTV. DVD's aren't really as high quality as you think and HDTV's make this visible. It is very strange that you were noticing artifacting around the subtitles though as those are not encoded as part of the video on DVD's. It sounds like the sharpness setting on the TV was too high. Turning that down would probably make the DVD look a heck of a lot better to you.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

WolfAndRaven posted:

If there's no point in 1080p < 50", why is it offered at all then? :confused: . Just to grab more money, even though no one could possibly notice?

Yes, that about sums it up. 1080p seems to be the biggest buzzword for HDTV's right now.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Saukkis posted:

That may be because of your TV's scalers. You both have 1080p displays so the 1080p/i can be shown in native resolution when 720p has to be upscaled and this reduces picture quality.

If you really want to compare 720p and 1080p you need two displays, one 720p, second 1080p. These should have otherwise equal picture quality, similar contrast, black levels, colour quality, etc. Then you also need two video sources, 720p and 1080p. You can't just use 1080p and downscale it to 720p. A video source that is significantly higher resolution than 1080p and is then downscaled to both resolutions could be acceptable, but better would be 3D animation that has been actually rendered in both resolution.

Easiest way to compare would be two front projectors aimed at same canvas showing some PC game in 720p and 1080p. I'm not sure if the Xbox 360 could be used for this. Does it actually render the games on different resolutions or are they just scaled to the output format. There were recently some claims that Halo 3 runs at 640p and is upscaled afterwards.

This is what .Nathan is trying to tell you Flyboy925. Your method of comparison is completely wrong because of the scaling your HDTV is doing.

The resolution the 360 will render at is up to the game, but it will do the scaling to the desired output resolution. The claims about Halo 3 being 640p are correct. I do think there are some games that will render in different resolutions internally up to 1080p so you could use one of those for the comparison.

evilalien fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Dec 8, 2007

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Don Lapre posted:

1080p is 1920x1080@24/30/60fps.

1080i is 1920x540 @ 60fps interlaced to produce a 1920x1080 image to your eyes.

The problem with 1080i is 1080p displays can have a hard time properly combining the frames to produce the progressive image all lcd's display.

In no way is 1080i better than 1080p. Feeding a 1080p image to a 1080p set is the best resolution you can get.

It depends on the medium really. 1080p is clearly superior for video games where fps can get up to 60. For film, 1080i is about as good as 1080p as modern interlacing produces no noticeable artifacts and film is only 24fps. 1080p24 (which the ps3 supports) is the best for film is it eliminates the need for 3:2 pull down framerate conversion. The only problem with this is that you would need a really great tv that has proper support for 1080p24; a lot of tv's that claim to support 1080p24 actually take the 1080p24 signal and do a 6:4 pull down whereas the proper method would be a 5:5 pull down.

So yeah, 1080i can never be superior to 1080p in any incarnation, but in some instances it is about equal.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

thanatos82 posted:

Alright, fellow goons. A little help, please.


I am looking to getting a new tv. I want some information, though. How does Vizio compare to companies like Sony or Samsung? Looking for suggestions, price range of about $800-900.

Also, there is a sale at Circuit City going on for a couple of days. Samsung 32" going for $730. Any suggestion on whether I should grab that one?

Well Vizio will be inferior to Sony/Samsung, but the question is will it bother you? The main differences you will find are number of inputs and contrast ratio. If you play a lot of dark games/movies, you may want to spring for something other than Vizio as Vizio's tend to have a poor contrast ratio.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Simstim posted:

As far as videogames go, none I know of for the consoles render at 1080p yet. Many don't even render at 720p yet though they claim to. Gran Turismo 5 is suppose to render at 1080p but it has yet to be released.

There are definitely a few out now that do, but there are not very many of them.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Flyboy925 posted:

Yes Blu Ray is 1080p, and as for videogames, I'm pretty sure all the newer next gen consoles render at 1080p/i. I know most of my X360 games are 1080. Havent checked my PS3 games yet though.

I doubt most of your games are native 1080p. A lot of games support upscaling to 1080p from whatever resolution they render at internally, but games that actually render at 1080p internally are few in number.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

BDawg posted:

But sources like DirecTV's HBOHD convert movies to 30fps, right? So then the TV doesn't process them correctly?

We were talking in the PS3 thread and I noticed that my dad's 120Hz TV makes movies look like video.

Would that mean you need to turn the 120Hz feature off when watching HBOHD?

Your tv will process 30fps correctly. Also 120hz can't be shut off; it is a inherent to your tv and cannot be changed. Your problem stems from auto motion being on. That stupid feature conjures up frames out of nowhere and results in an unnaturally smooth looking video. Turn it off and everything will look normal.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Jeff Wiiver posted:

Edit: Also, one quick question about the QAM tuner, if I have a regular TV now with Cox Digital Cable, and I get an HDTV that has a QAM tuner will I still have to get a new cable box?

QAM will allow you to pick up any unencrypted digital channels without the use of a cable box. Most cable companies do encrypt channels that are not part of the basic digital package, so don't expect to get more than that without a box even if you are paying for a higher package.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.
I am looking to buy a new TV for my parents and I've come down to these two choices:

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-TH-65PZ750U-1080p-Plasma-HDTV/dp/B000UY9LBA
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HL67A750-67-inch-1080p-Powered/dp/B001413DWQ

I am looking for some thoughts before I buy one of them or suggestions for some potential alternatives. My parents' current TV is a 61" rear projection Hitachi HDTV so I know they wouldn't mind DLP. The viewing distance is ~22ft in a room that can be a bit bright during the day.

Also, can somebody recommend a good wall mount for that Panasonic since it has no stand (sold separately for $1000!)? I am a little hesitant to put 180 pounds onto the ones I am seeing on monoprice.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

.Nathan. posted:

22'? Holy gently caress, that's the size of my whole apartment. Anyway, i think you'd be crazy not to just snag that DLP for cheap. The Panasonic's not a bad set, but it's last year's model and is going to be replaced soon, and by the time you factor in a stand i don't think it's worth twice the price.

Yeah, I am beginning to lean that way myself. I'm not even sure my parents can tell the difference between HD and SD so no point in spending the extra money I guess. Honestly the extra few inches would do them good. The room is so stupidly huge that every reasonably priced TV I have looked at is still too small. That Samsung is probably the best of the bunch. I wouldn't even bother if their current TV wasn't having problems.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Satsuki posted:

Is the 120hz thing that big a difference? If it is I guess I can put up the extra cash for the newer model, but the reviews on the 550 are pretty solid.

Also I am concerned about the shipping. The guy at Best Buy said the thing needed to be transported standing straight up, or it could damage the television. Is this something I should be worried about with Amazon's free shipping?

120hz is only useful if you have a source that can take advantage of it. Currently that means a Blu-Ray player that can output 1080p24. If you don't have a Blu-Ray player that can do 1080p24 (such as the PS3) and have no plans to get one, then there isn't really a point in you getting 120hz. What Kenshin is talking about in the post above is frame interpolation. This is a separate feature that some tv manufacturers have added to their sets to "take advantage" of 120hz on all sources that may not be 1080p24. I put "take advantage" in quotes since I as well as many others think this looks horrid. Thankfully, you can shut this off on most 120hz sets.

As for the shipping, they say this because not shipping upright puts a great deal of stress on the glass screens. I doubt you would have to worry about this at all with Amazon.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

AmishMafia001 posted:

I Ctrl-F'd for 'A650' from page 100 on and couldn't find an 'A' to my 'Q'

I purchased the Samsung LN46A650 with the 120Hz refresh rate but when I bring up the information about the source I'm watching whether It's coming from my HD cable box or my PS3 it never says its displaying 120Hz.

I want my 120Hz :(

Turn on 1080p24 in your PS3 settings and watch some blu-rays. Voila, you are taking advantage of your 120hz set now. The true purpose of 120hz is to watch movies at their native 24fps.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

c0ldfuse posted:

I went to buy my TV today and found Amazon just raised the price of the LN46A650 to $1803.25, gently caress. Should I wait for the price to drop back to around $1730 again? I know there is a 30 day match but maybe another week is worthwhile to wait.

EDIT:
Just bought it anyway, will be watching for the price drop.

Use http://www.camelcamelcamel.com/ to be notified immediately by email if the price drops.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

fahrvergnugen posted:

I have a receiver that does component to hdmi conversion and I run my 360 through that, it's handy because I only have to run a single cable but it's no quality difference if I run the 360 straight to the tv. Just doesn't matter. I don't have an HDMI 360 so I can't comment on trying both cables and seeing if it makes any difference that way.

Maybe in your case there's some processing that happens after a component signal comes in that doesn't get applied to hdmi, and that makes a difference? S'all I can think of.

As far as just running the numbers, since component can handle up to 1080p, it shouldn't make any difference there either.

It isn't just about the numbers. The biggest difference is 1:1 pixel mapping. It completely eliminates the overscan you get with component. VGA can do this too.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Don Lapre posted:

This is really dependent on the tv. You can do zero overscan with component just like you can hdmi or svga.

You're right, but it is far more common for a TV to support it with HDMI or VGA than with component. I should have been clearer in my initial post.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

ApexAftermath posted:

Ok so stupid question folks. The tv I bought is supposed to be 720p only. When i hooked up my PS3 it asked if i wanted to set as 1080p and for some reason i selected it. It kept displaying so i just figured my tv was down converting to 720p, but when i bring up the info pane it says "HDMI - 1080P". I guess this just confuses me and no one I know seems to know the answer. At work right now so i don't have any model numbers or anything of the sort but i can get it if someone wants to look into it.

Definitely get the model number. I think there are some tv's that are native 720p but can accept a 1080p signal.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

fahrvergnugen posted:

Why not just do 1080p over component? Works fine with the hd-dvd.

You would lose the ability to have DVD's upscaled which might be a deciding factor for him.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

katkillad2 posted:

Well, the cable is hooked up directly to the tv so there is no "box". My television is hooked up the exact same way and I get free local HD channels.

The TV needs a QAM tuner before you can get HD/digital channels without a cable box. It sounds like your TV has one but this new one does not.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

KracKiwi posted:

My friend is looking to buy an HDTV but really doesn't know what to look for beyond "I heard Sony Bravias are good" (he currently owns an ancient dying 40"+ 4:3 tube set).

Based on my experience with plasma and LCD HDTVs, I personally think plasma is the way to go. However, due to the election I haven't been following the market.

Is there a current goon-recommended plasma TV in the 46" - 50" range that I should suggest?

I found these two, but Pioneer is usually a little pricey, and the black levels of the Panasonic kind of put me off:

Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020FD: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/pioneer-kuro-pdp-5020fd/4505-6482_7-33002523.html?tag=mncol;lst
Panasonic Viera TH-50PZ800U: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/panasonic-viera-th-50pz800u/4505-6482_7-32886472.html

What's wrong with the black levels on the Panasonic? They are usually heralded as being only second to the Kuros, and the review you linked also says that the black levels are excellent. Perhaps you were just looking at a badly set up tv?

Honestly, if money is at all a concern, I would go with the Panasonic. The Kuros are spectacular, but a bit excessive on price.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Dee posted:

OK, so a friend of the family has offered to sell me this 55" Daewoo RPTV she doesn't use any more for $600. She said it's in perfect condition. I googled it and wasn't able to turn up much in the way of customer feedback, and what there was, was mixed. I also have to drive about 150 miles to get it.

I would only use this for gaming - I don't watch TV. Between the burn-in concerns, convergence issues (THANK YOU PAGE ONE), the risk of damage from the trip, and the age of the TV, this is starting to seem like a losing proposition.

Maybe I'm wrong, though, and this could be a decent deal for a big TV at a better price than I could get in a store - I really can't justify spending more than $1,000 on a TV, so this would be a way to get something I'd like to have but could not otherwise afford. I don't know how reliable Daewoo is, and if they make fantastic stuff, this may still be a win.

Can I get some opinions, please?

It's a horrible price for a first gen off-brand HDTV. It can't even display 720p which is quite telling.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

da sponge posted:

This is why I got a TV with native 24p reproduction and not the 120hz/motion flow. I couldn't stand it on my friend's sammy.

Native 24p reproduction requires 120hz. Motion flow/auto motion/natural motion/etc is completely different and is what BonoMan is complaining about. 120hz is incredible for sources that can take advantage of it (only Blu-Ray). I hate that manufacturers decided to introduce this frame interpolation tech that does nothing more than confuse consumers and discredit 120hz.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

qirex posted:

Nope some TVs have 48hz mode like my Sony 40v4100 and I think some Samsungs.

I had no idea so thanks for the correction. Anyhow, my only point was that 120hz is a good feature; what's bad is the frame interpolation junk that it usually comes with.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

dreesemonkey posted:

I'm no videophile, but even compressed (single layer) DVDs look more than fine, retail DVDs look 'good' (non-upscaled, does anyone know if the 360 upscales?), and the 360 over HDMI looks freaking unreal. Going from my old JVC 27" to this thing is just ridiculous, I love it.

360 upscales over hdmi/vga so you are set there. Image quality reviews aren't very good for it though, and honestly, you really don't want to be hearing that jet engine of an optical drive while watching a movie.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

AcidCat posted:

My 650 is ordered and I'm still trying to get my head around this 120hz/AMP stuff. Am I getting this correct - turning off AMP does not turn off the 120hz? They are separate settings? Or should some things have it on (PS3 BluRay?) and some off?

120hz is not AMP. AMP is just a feature to take advantage of 120hz. 120hz is a property of your display and can't be shut off. AMP can be turned off (and should be turned off on everything in my opinion as it looks terrible). Just set your PS3 to output 1080p24 for blu-ray and keep AMP off and you will be all set for smooth video reproduction without a 3:2 pulldown.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

SlyFrog posted:

Ok, but (I understand I am clueless here), how much of a difference does it make for 24fps and 30fps material?

When using 24fps or 30fps material, would I really be able to tell a difference (as a normal human being who is not obsessed with looking for tiny, tiny differences, but is bugged by material differences) between the 550 (which does not have 120hz) and a platform that does have it?

30fps stuff looks identical on a normal 60hz set and a 120hz set. If my parents can notice a difference in 24fps stuff on a 120hz TV vs a normal 60hz TV, I'm sure you can too.

Disclaimer - I was selectively using slow panning shots from Planet Earth where this kind of stuff is plainly evident. It won't be as noticeable all the time, but every movie has a few of those slow pans where you can see the 3:2 pulldown judder that 120hz will eliminate.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

fahrvergnugen posted:

There's only one 360 game I know of that renders at 1080p. Most 360 games render at 720p or less and then get scaled to whatever your output resolution is supposed to be. Set it to 1080i or 720p, whichever winds up looking better on your tv, and call it a day. I promise you won't ever miss a thing.

Edit: I was wrong. There's a few that are confirmed, and then a bunch more bearing the 1080p logo on the box, but I'll eat my hat if the 360 can render Bioshock at 1080p.

Half of those games with the 1080p logo I know for sure do not render at 1080p. Bioshock is 720p definitely, and Halo3 renders at a resolution lower than 720p. I guess they can just slap that logo on because the 360 can scale them up to 1080p.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Mr Bike posted:

You might notice a difference between the two, but the real question is if you like the look of 120hz (which is much smoother, almost artifically so) more than 60hz.

The real purpose of 120hz is to remove the need for 3:2 pulldown which causes judder when playing 24fps material. If 3:2 pulldown judder annoys you and you are going to be watching a lot of blu-rays, 120hz is probably something you want.

This frame interpolation garbage is just a thing that tv makers decided to add in for extra appeal. I personally think it looks like crap.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Omegaslast posted:

if you did a blind test you would not be able to notice a difference, and if you were able to, its something on YOUR end not the component cables. Im using a 360 with hdmi so i have no reason to be a fanboy, im just stating facts.

Like fahrver said the component and hdmi on a 360 transmit the exact same information when it comes to picture quality.

That is true, but there are way too many TVs out there which will do 1:1 pixel mapping with HDMI but not with component and that will result in a noticeable picture quality difference.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

flyboi posted:

It does 2:3 pulldown for 24p and has a better display panel over the s14.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9236294&type=product&id=1218064394819

I am stunned that they are marketing 3:2 pulldown for 24 fps sources as a feature.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

teacup posted:

She wants LCD- I'm probably not going to argue that because she says she wants to cut down on power bills (with a surround/blu ray/hdtv set... :P) and plasma apparently is a power hog? Whatever, I can't convince her on this but it doesn't matter.

She is correct about the power usage of LCD vs. Plasma, but it really won't amount to much each year in savings unless the TV is seeing higher than average usage. A chart if you care about specifics:
http://reviews.cnet.com/green-tech/tv-consumption-chart/?tag=contentBody;nextPage

If you read through the thread you will see that the current favorite LCD's are Samsung and for good reason; they are well priced, have great features, and review well. Sony is good too, but they will be a bit more expensive.

evilalien fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Jul 8, 2009

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.
Optical out can only do 5.1 max. Those specs that you found pretty much indicate that it will pass surround sound over the optical out (only dolby), but in all likelyhood, it will only do this when using the built-in tuners. If you are watching something over the HDMI input (say a blu-ray player), it will probably only pass stereo sound.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Millions posted:

I'm buying a new TV within the week, and I'm suddenly very paranoid. I'll be primarily using it for PS3 and Wii games, and watching Blu Rays and standard definition TV shows from an external hard drive. It will initially be for an apartment bedroom, but I'll eventually be moving it into a living room when I move out over the next couple years. I've decided on a 1080p LCD, and I'm currently looking at a 40 inch Sony KDL40EX400 at Best Buy for $559.

My main concern is that I'll be disappointed with a 60hz refresh rate. I'm pretty picky when it comes to big-ticket electronics, so should I be worried about not going 120hz?

Unless you know what 3:2 pulldown is and what its major downsides are, and find said downsides to be very noticeable, you won't really miss 120hz at all. Even with 120hz, you would have to live with 3:2 pulldown for movies in any format other than blu-ray. The other thing that 120hz gets you is frame interpolation which in my opinion should be off at all times given how lovely it is.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Uziel posted:

Yeah, that's really the only spot. My living room/dining room is all one L shaped room.

Sounds like plasma is definitely the way to go then?

Is the VT25 that good? I mean, at that price point, I'd be looking at
PN50C6500 versus TC-50VT25 is a $1100 difference.
PN58C6500 versus TC-50VT25 is a $500 difference.

I'm just not sure of the size...concerned that 58" would be too big but I'm not sure how to figure that out.

The VT25 is excellent, but they are definitely charging a premium for 3D support. The picture quality is definitely superior to the Samsung plasmas though, but you should try to compare them in person to see if you care. I wish Panasonic had a model in between the VT20/25 and the G25 that had 1080p24 support but no 3D.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Vertigo posted:

I'm going to grab one of the two above mentioned Panasonics through Amazon.

First of all, is the G25 worth the extra $200?

2nd of all, I do "game", whats the rule with "burn in" on the new plasmas?

Thanks!

Burn-in isn't really a problem anymore, but if you are going to be gaming for more than a few hours at a time with games with high contrast static hud elements, you are likely to run into image retention.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

Vertigo posted:

I honestly game for 3-4 hours tops, with 1-2 hours being more likely. I don't play any first person shooters on a regular basis which is what I hear is the biggest cause of IR/burn in.

Isn't IR just as bad as burn in?

IR will go away after some time depending on how bad it is, but it is definitely annoying as hell while it is there. It isn't permanent damage like burn-in. I guess FPS might be more likely since they have prominent HUD's, but like I said, it can happen with any game. You won't have any problems with 1-2 hour gaming sessions. A 4 hour one might leave you with some IR depending on the game of course.

evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

nutnmunch posted:

So, after reading up a bit I've started to look at input lag and I'm pretty much stuck in a perpetual state of :psyduck:.

Considering 80% of the time I will be playing games while staring at the thing, I'm starting to worry. Especially because I mostly play FPS oriented stuff.

It is starting to look like this isn't a good idea.

Panasonic LCD's are great and low input lag (~20-30ms). Stay the hell away from Samsung and Sony for input lag of course.

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evilalien
Jul 29, 2005

Knowledge is born from Curiosity.

qirex posted:

What do you mean "of course"? Sony has always had some of the lowest input lag of any TV manufacturer and Samsung has been approaching them lately. Panasonic's sub-40" LCDs are generally pretty well regarded but their bigger ones aren't really anything to write home about because they don't put a lot of investment into them because plasma is their primary thing.

I'm going by the input lag thread on AVSForum. Sony most certainly does not have some of the lowest input lag of any manufacturer. It's pretty much Panasonic, Sharp, and some LG and Toshiba TV's at the low end. Sony and Samsung are typically average to high.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1131464

I haven't seen input lag results for all of their current 2010 TV's, but the reported numbers in the EX500/501 thread are about 42ms/84ms in game/normal modes which isn't that great. I really wouldn't expect any of the other new models to perform much differently.

Edit - Looks like the EX700 is also terrible:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1131464

evilalien fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jun 14, 2010

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