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Hob_Gadling posted:Those are for speaker cables. Ipod -> receiver -> wallplate -> speakers. You can buy banana plugs cheaply from Monoprice, if you don't have any. aha! didn't know about these, what are some other options in the $50-100 range? wouldn't mind spending a little more if I know it's going to last me a good long time.
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Feb 25, 2012 21:32
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MMD3 posted:aha! didn't know about these, what are some other options in the $50-100 range? Sherwood stereo amps or buying used.
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Feb 25, 2012 21:54
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Leperflesh posted:The little "Digital" flashes (I'm not sure why it would since this is an analog input), the four-squares that mean Up Mix are on, and "Dir." is lit, which means auto surround is in direct or pure direct mode. I can reminisce about when devices hadn't enough awareness to force their will upon you or look forward to the moment when I can root my amp and flash it with custom firmware. I hate it when an amp says: "I don't see no subwoofer, man! You must be mistaken! Wait, I'll adjust the settings myself... No. No! What did I say? There's no subwoofer! Stop touching me!" and there isn't poo poo you can do about that. That's just wrong. Fatty Patty posted:I assumed since it does not fit in any of my 3.5mm ports. If it's really thinner, then, yes, you'll need the extra adapter. But it's also weird because that's different from what's listed on the Amazon page and different from what's required for straightforward iPhone compatibility. So, if you say it doesn't fit in the other ports, does that mean you can rattle it around in the hole or not? Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Feb 25, 2012 |
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Feb 25, 2012 22:33
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So, I received a pair of Wharfedale Sapphire SP 89 speakers from my folks along with a Technics SA-EX110 receiver in order to properly power and use these speakers with my computer, and since my current speakers are rather poor Insignias that need almost all settings turned up to max, my first experience with using these things at such a volume were... unpleasant. Now, with lower volumes, I noticed only the top tweeter is working on the right speaker. Could I have blown all the other parts in that channel, or is it likely a different problem? I believe they were working just fine when I received them...
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Feb 25, 2012 23:22
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Question: I bought a Samsung HDTV / 5.1 surround package about three years ago. It was on sale, it generally works pretty well. It's never blown me away, but it does the job. For a lot of movies, however, the subwoofer is atrocious. I've turned down the bass as low as possible, but with any low sounds or music, the bass drowns out everything else. It doesn't happen on everything, just movies with a lot of low rumbles and stuff. Action movies, horror movies. Basically all the good ones. I've taken to just using the TV speakers if I know that the movie's going to set the subwoofer off, but it just occurred to me that I could ask here. Is it likely a defective subwoofer? Something I've set up wrong? Can I just take the subwoofer out of the system and forget about it? I don't really know much about audio systems.
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Feb 25, 2012 23:45
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Demostrs posted:Could I have blown all the other parts in that channel Barnabas posted:I bought a Samsung HDTV / 5.1 surround package about three years ago. [...] Is it likely a defective subwoofer? Something I've set up wrong? Can I just take the subwoofer out of the system and forget about it?
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Feb 26, 2012 00:16
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Flipperwaldt posted:Yes. Yes, you could and likely have. Any other scenario seems extremely less likely. I should mention that it was like that for a grand total of two seconds, but you are most likely entirely correct, and I have no idea how I would know it was something else causing the problem. I guess I'll just throw them out, then.
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Feb 26, 2012 01:07
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Demostrs posted:I should mention that it was like that for a grand total of two seconds, but you are most likely entirely correct, and I have no idea how I would know it was something else causing the problem. I guess I'll just throw them out, then. You might want to get a quote for fixing that first, buying another to replace the blown speaker or try selling them as is. If you listed the model correctly they were quite valuable back in the day. Perhaps even look at replacing the damaged speaker elements yourself, if you're handy. Easy way to check if you actually blew up something: turn balance all the way to right and see if you can hear anything.
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Feb 26, 2012 01:46
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Hob_Gadling posted:You might want to get a quote for fixing that first, buying another to replace the blown speaker or try selling them as is. If you listed the model correctly they were quite valuable back in the day. Perhaps even look at replacing the damaged speaker elements yourself, if you're handy. I've literally got no money and am poo poo with soldering and using my hands so unless the fix is dead simple these speakers are boned. I don't think that setting everything to the right channel will do much considering the top tweeter will still work and sound somewhere clear and loud, but I guess I'll gently caress around with these more and see what I can do. 99% percent sure they will be in the dump next week though, waiting for a person to discover them and be like "gently caress yes". Edit: Here's what the left speaker's cable looks like:  While the right, faulty speaker's looks like this:  Notice how the right one is flat. Could this be the source of the problem? An improperly made circuit of sorts? Demostrs fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 02:22
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Hob_Gadling posted:Sherwood stereo amps or buying used. just found the Dayton DTA-100a, this might be a little more flexible for me and I definitely prefer the appearance. rad stuff, thanks for the heads-up! http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-DTA-100a-Class-T-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B004JK8BDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1330219859&sr=1-2
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Feb 26, 2012 02:36
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Demostrs posted:Notice how the right one is flat. Could this be the source of the problem? An improperly made circuit of sorts? I don't know how difficult these speakers are to open, but you could go through the motions of checking for a loose wire in there. See if anything looks or smells burnt. You can basically blow the woofers and then it's game over, or you can blow up the internal electronicky bits (like the crossover), in which case someone who understands a bit about electronics might be able to repair them. Many years ago I built my own speakers from some instructions on the internet. I remember there being caps and all kinds of stuff that I imagine can blow up when overloaded on the pre-built crossover board I bought. That's about as far as my knowledge of these things goes. In any case, if there's doubt about the wires, switch those from the right to the left speaker (and vice versa) to test (at normal levels). I assume you tried connecting the right speaker to the left speaker output earlier, to verify that by any chance it isn't a problem with the source. It's not likely, but, hey.
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Feb 26, 2012 03:30
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Flipperwaldt posted:The tweeter working and the rest not seems indicative of a problem inside the speaker. It was the cable! Yessssss now someone teach me what the gently caress is up so I can have both channels working Edit: Aha holy poo poo I know what the problem was! The cables were loose in the right channel so they fell out when I first set up everything! Sorry for wasting everyone's time guys. Demostrs fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 06:23
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This has probably been asked before, but whatever. I game with 5.1 surround sound speakers at a decent volume. My current mic sucks (it's a mic built into a webcam). I want to get a mic that will work decently with sound coming out of my speakers. What would you guys recommend?
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Feb 26, 2012 06:26
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Demostrs posted:Edit: Aha holy poo poo I know what the problem was! The cables were loose in the right channel so they fell out when I first set up everything! I jumped to conclusions earlier, but I'm glad you persisted. Important lessons were learned by everybody, I think, so not a waste of time.
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Feb 26, 2012 12:19
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Demostrs posted:Edit: Aha holy poo poo I know what the problem was! The cables were loose in the right channel so they fell out when I first set up everything! Sorry for wasting everyone's time guys. No problem, the idea of throwing $3000 speakers away because of a loose cable makes me sad and I'm happy you found the problem. 
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Feb 26, 2012 12:31
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I'd like some clarification on some stuff if you guys don't mind. I got a pair of Sennheiser 555's a while back, and have been mostly using them with my ipod. I did use them a couple of times with my computer when I didn't want to wake the neighbours up, but after reading a bit through the Headphone thread, I'm realizing my connections may not be precisely... ideal. My computer has a Realtek ALC892R 8-Channel DAC (onboard, I know, I know). Currently that is hooked up to some Edifier 2.1 speakers that are used for most computer-usage things via the back connectors. It is also connected using the same connectors to a Logitech Z-680 5.1 speaker set which I use for 5.1 when I play games on it, and I use the optical out for watching movies/series. So, question time! When I use the optical out, I see the receiver on the speaker switch to DTS/Dolby Digital/whatever the movie is encoded in; am I correct in assuming the the Z-680's handle the DAC part? I also noticed that for games that don't have Dolby Ditigal I have to use the "direct" analog connectors on the back of the card, if I use the optical it just puts out stereo sound (even if I set the card to output 5.1). Following previous logic, in these cases it would be the soundcard doing the DAC? And finally... if those two assumptions I made before are correct and I wanted to use my 555's, my best bet would be to output through the z-680's using the optical out and connect them to its receiver? (it has a headphone out). Whenever I used them I would connect them to the "headphone out" of the edifier speakers, but noticed that they had quite a bit of noise when no sound was coming out of them. Ok, I wrote a lot there. Hope my explanation was clear, and thanks in advance!
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Feb 26, 2012 17:34
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Edmond Dantes posted:When I use the optical out, I see the receiver on the speaker switch to DTS/Dolby Digital/whatever the movie is encoded in; am I correct in assuming the the Z-680's handle the DAC part? The headphone amplifier in the Z-680's could still be poo poo, I have no idea, but it's the shortest analog path and the Realtek is cut out of the loop, so with what you have available, that should be the best option. EDIT: Edmond Dantes posted:I also noticed that for games that don't have Dolby Ditigal I have to use the "direct" analog connectors on the back of the card, if I use the optical it just puts out stereo sound (even if I set the card to output 5.1). Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 21:59
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I am having some issues with my surround sound speakers and a new TV I just bought off my friend. The TV is a Samsung UN55C6300SF and I am completely unsure of how to hook up my speakers to it. There doesn't appear to be any audio out for component/composite cables and I don't know exactly what I'm supposed to do. I had it plugged in like this (before I realized it said in and not out).   I'm sure it's something simple, but this isn't my area of expertise and googling has revealed nothing to me. DeathChill fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 04:09
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DeathChill posted:I am having some issues with my surround sound speakers and a new TV I just bought off my friend. The TV is a Samsung UN55C6300SF and I am completely unsure of how to hook up my speakers to it. There doesn't appear to be any audio out for component/composite cables and I don't know exactly what I'm supposed to do.  In short, buying one of these will be the easiest solution. Unless you already have one of these lying around somewhere.
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Feb 27, 2012 05:04
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Flipperwaldt posted:Yes, yes and yes. Thanks for the answers. I actually don't know why I never thought of plugging the headphones into the z680 before, as I was typing my question I realized that it was indeed the most logical answer. I tried them and lo! No more noise.  I'll try the Pro Logic 2 thing later. And a curious question, shouldn't the "6ch direct" setting (using all 3 analog connectors) be "true" sorround, seeing as it's using each cable for a different set of speakers? Or is it the same as using the optical out and PLII movie setting?
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Feb 27, 2012 19:10
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Edmond Dantes posted:And a curious question, shouldn't the "6ch direct" setting (using all 3 analog connectors) be "true" sorround, seeing as it's using each cable for a different set of speakers? Or is it the same as using the optical out and PLII movie setting? If a game gives you stereo when using the optical output, it's most likely because the source material is stereo (2 channel, it could have some Dolby Surround information encoded in it and you wouldn't technically call it stereo anymore). And then any surround sound the analog outputs produce is a software upmixed version of that. Is it the same as letting the speakers upmix the stereo to surround? There could be subtle differences in the percieved quality of upmixing, especially in how wide and/or separated it is and where the bass is routed. Upmixing, as always when creating more out of less, isn't a completely hard science, so you could like one version more than the other. As the processing in the speakers is "aware" of the limits of the satellites and the subwoofer and it's also apparently THX compliant, I'd prefer that to the relative unknowns Realtek does with it on principle. Having a shorter analog path and especially not having to mess with cables and settings all the time would be more decisive considerations to me, though. And please don't misunderstand me when I call it fake surround. As far as those go, Pro Logic II is a very decent one.
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Feb 27, 2012 20:26
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Progress report: Pioneer support via e-mail says my receiver needs to be serviced and suggested a nearby shop. I checked and I bought it from Amazon in May 2010, so it's three months shy of two years old. I can't find the warranty card so I'm not sure, but I suspect it is out of warranty. Now I need to decide if the cost of repair is cost effective, since the receiver can now be purchased from Amazon for $235 (I paid about $300). Given that I live in California, what is probably a fair price to repair the broken sub out channel on my receiver? I assume it could be anything from a blown fuse to a dead crossover and therefore parts cost will vary, but what's typical for labor cost for this kind of thing?
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Feb 27, 2012 23:08
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Flipperwaldt posted:Comprehensive explanation. Cheers again, that explained it. I got confused because usually the z-680 chooses the effect on its own when using the optical out (DTS/Dolby Digital), but I noticed while playing Skyrim that if I selected 5.1 in-game and output through optical, it would just revert to "stereo", and honestly didn't think of switching to PLII; I just connected it with the direct analog, set the realtek to output 5.1 and worked like a charm. I'll give the PLII movie setting a try next time and report back. I used to use PLII with the PlayStation 2 and the GameCube and remember it being quite good, so I'll probably settle on that.
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Feb 28, 2012 00:50
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Edmond Dantes posted:I noticed while playing Skyrim that if I selected 5.1 in-game and output through optical, it would just revert to "stereo", and honestly didn't think of switching to PLII; I just connected it with the direct analog, set the realtek to output 5.1 and worked like a charm. So the way I explained it is an ideal world situation, but in actual fact the analog outputs give you a "truer" surround sound for games after all. It's completely  -backwards. poo poo like that makes me angry 
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Feb 28, 2012 02:06
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Flipperwaldt posted:What matters is whether it really is thinner (hotdog down a hallway style, you'd really notice) or whether it doesn't work in/click into other devices because the headset has TRRS (extra ring for the microphone) where normal stereo 3.5mm jacks are TRS. this is actually what it turned out to be, 3 rings instead of the usual 2. I got the adapter I ordered in the mail today and both speakers and the mic work, but the microphone is VERY quiet. Any suggestions?
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Feb 28, 2012 05:39
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Fatty Patty posted:this is actually what it turned out to be, 3 rings instead of the usual 2. I got the adapter I ordered in the mail today and both speakers and the mic work, but the microphone is VERY quiet. Any suggestions? Otherwise one thing I'm curious about, test it out while pushing the different buttons on the clicker. I temoter he remote works by shorting different connections, and that adapter isn't meant for the newer Apple remote headsets like yours, so I'm thinking maybe if you press the right button the right signal (for that adapter) may come as a result. If that's the case, hell if I know how to fix it (tape button down or do surgery on the adapter?).
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Feb 28, 2012 07:06
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japtor posted:It's only a mono mic, I think the adapter said it was for a stereo mic...you should still be hearing it though. Is there some audio input level you can jack up? Also I guess just make sure the jack is fully seated, sometimes takes some extra force with the TRRS plugs I've noticed. wow, I feel like a real idiot now. You're right, it wasn't pushed in all the way, needed a little extra force. Thanks so much for your help!
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Feb 28, 2012 18:20
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I used my friend's Jawbone Jambox http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/JAMBOXBD?utm_source=none&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=none&gclid=CKq456nGy64CFS6CtgodN398Aw over the weekend and couldn't believe how great it sounded for the size. It's more money than I'd like to spend but I don't really need the bluetooth feature, it's fine with me if I have plug in a computer or iPod via USB. Any products like it that you can recommend?
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Mar 3, 2012 21:23
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I auditioned B&W CM1s and I love their sound, it's very pleasant. http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/Speakers/Home_Audio/CM_Series/CM1.html I have a concern though, my room is around 300 square feet.. Will they just not cut it? I heard they produce a lot of bass and sound for their size and it sure seems like it, but I still have my doubts. If I did buy these I would plan on buying a sub down the road to accompany them.
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Mar 4, 2012 22:56
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What's the best sound bar for a HTPC in a small-ish room? Separate sub/satellites are okay, as long as they're wireless. Preferably something under 500 bucks.
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Mar 5, 2012 13:47
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I feel kinda stupid asking this but I recently grabbed a Sumvision Cyclone Micro 2+ mini video streaming box to use with mkvs/xvids etc, it was really cheap but works fine via HDMI for everything I've thrown at it. However it wont allow 5.1 audio via the HDMI, and according to others it needs to be hooked up via coaxial which my receiver supports. But I have no idea which cable I'm supposed to use. Heres a pic of the ports, the bottom half shows the back of the thing, and the coaxial port is highlighted on the right. I've tried a 3.5mm toslink adaptor but its way too big, the port must be about 2mm tops (theres a 3.5mm AV jack on the left for comparison).
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Mar 5, 2012 21:29
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dancehall posted:I used my friend's Jawbone Jambox http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/JAMBOXBD?utm_source=none&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=none&gclid=CKq456nGy64CFS6CtgodN398Aw there's still time to get in on this... very similar to the jambox, still connects via bluetooth or mini-jack but w/out the microphone for bluetooth calling and at half the cost of the jambox. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1733547063/zooka-bluetooth-speaker-for-your-ipad
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Mar 5, 2012 22:04
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MMD3 posted:there's still time to get in on this... very similar to the jambox, still connects via bluetooth or mini-jack but w/out the microphone for bluetooth calling and at half the cost of the jambox. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1733547063/zooka-bluetooth-speaker-for-your-ipad Also does not exist yet and has no concrete release date.
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Mar 5, 2012 22:25
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qirex posted:Also does not exist yet and has no concrete release date. well, there's that, yeah... legit design agency though, they've built stuff for Nike and have working prototypes of the thing, but if you're looking for something in the real near future then probably not for you, yes.
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Mar 5, 2012 22:40
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WizardShotFood posted:I feel kinda stupid asking this but I recently grabbed a Sumvision Cyclone Micro 2+ mini video streaming box to use with mkvs/xvids etc, it was really cheap but works fine via HDMI for everything I've thrown at it.  the right cable should have been included. If that's not actually the case, my best guess is that this adapter could be useful. That is, if that actually is a hole for a 2.5mm jack.
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Mar 5, 2012 23:16
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Hey, two questions. I just picked up this Sansui 881 (dumpster find) and was wondering if there is a guide to de-humming (has a quite audible buzz) this unit or something similar, and if there is a place in Canada that sells Capacitors for a decent price. I've always wanted a 70's receiver, but now that I have one I've discovered that old audio equipment ages like everything else. Thanks.
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Mar 8, 2012 00:35
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Blistex posted:I just picked up this Sansui 881 Does the hum change if you touch the receiver body when it's on (or ground it in some other way)? Are the speaker intakes visibly damaged, corrupted etc. in any way? If you tilt the whole unit (without it being connected to anything, of course) does it rattle?
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Mar 8, 2012 00:45
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Hob_Gadling posted:Does the hum change if you touch the receiver body when it's on (or ground it in some other way)? Are the speaker intakes visibly damaged, corrupted etc. in any way? If you tilt the whole unit (without it being connected to anything, of course) does it rattle? Nope! None of the above and everything is solid, and appears to be in mint condition. I've tried to find some answers in AudioKarma but they appear to be speaking in some manner of moon language.
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Mar 8, 2012 01:14
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Does it hum when you have no source devices connected (turntable, CD etc)? Does the hum grow louder when you turn volume up?
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Mar 8, 2012 01:28
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Nothing connected, hum is present when changed to all settings (AM/FM/PHONO/AUX1/AUX2). When the radio is going it is audible in the background.
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Mar 8, 2012 01:51
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