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KozmoNaut posted:Holy poo poo, someone just put a Beolab 2 subwoofer up for sale for ~$75, because it's a 100V model for the Japanese market. AFAIK, there's an internal jumper for selecting the input voltage. I am furiously trying to get in contact with the dude right now. I can't remember ever being inside a Lab 2 as they've always been solid as hell in terms of not blowing up at high SPL so I can't help you on this one. Maybe give your local store a call? They can have a chat with Struer and confirm.
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Sep 1, 2015 11:49
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I keep forgetting that fact about you. If it came to it, a replacement power supply isn't going to be too much cash I imagine.
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Sep 1, 2015 13:32
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KozmoNaut posted:Google just released the audio-only Chromecast: https://www.google.com/chromecast/speakers/ I like the idea of that but I don't have any tracks on my phone aaaaaaaaaaand I hate that other dickheads at house parties could just jump in and play utter shite. There's a reason I have playlists for gatherings. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 16:46
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KozmoNaut posted:Let me put it another way: If said people have such lovely taste, why are they allowed on your wifi and not confined to a limited guest wifi? Because that involves technology and fiddling with things that I am too dumb to understand.
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Oct 2, 2015 08:55
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KozmoNaut posted:That's an honest answer, I just think that if you're giving random people your wifi password, their taste in music should be the least of your worries. Random people is a little far I feel. Just moved house so everything is on lockdown now anyway.
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Oct 5, 2015 16:03
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I have a set of AKG speakers that have XLR inputs on them, they're passive so it's a little weird for them to have. I need to crack the input plate off at some point and see what's going on inside.
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Oct 6, 2015 09:59
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You can't weatherproof speakers and such any more than you can stop the tides so don't even bother trying to find something. Even the best 'weatherproof' speakers (which are silly expensive) will succumb to nature eventually, sun is very good at destroying the finish on speakers, moisture and dust will make sure your electronics die well before they should and insects and animals take up residence in anything left outdoors. Get used to hauling kit around to and from storage and setting up speakers as it's genuinely the best option in terms of cost and quality. If you're wanting loud, forget 5.1, it's a nice thought but complicates matters immensely considering it's an outdoor setup. A solid 2.1 setup is your best bet and you can spend the cash you save on better speakers and amps, and a limiter because someone will inevitably smash the gains up and kill your speakers in short order. A list of stuff you'll require: Power distribution A mixer (can be a small 8 channel job) EQ Limiting Amplification Speakers Cabling What sort of crowds are you looking to play to and just how loud do you need to go as the higher both of these, the more money you need to spend on speakers and amplification. If you want 5.1 then multiply that number by at least 2 and add on $500 for a processor/receiver with pre-outs.
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Oct 7, 2015 11:05
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Unless you go the route of just using a big set of floorstanders outside along with an AV receiver there's actually quite a lot to think about. Here's 3/4 of my PA setup in the garden of my old house. The subs have been stored in a damp garage since last winter, the finish on them is Tuff Cab which is a UK version of Duratex. As you can see they look a little lovely and they were full of spiders when I pulled them out. And this was from being under cover but in a damp place. Water will straight gently caress your poo poo. They work perfectly but I obviously can't see what damage has been done inside so at some point they may crap out on me or just unleash a billion spiders upon my new garage.  If you're going to move them about but know exactly where you're going to be 'installing' them every time I'd look at creating some form of shelter for them so in the event of rain they only take a minimal beating. If this is something you're going to be doing repeatedly then it makes sense to have them as protected as possible. In terms of electronics that setup above plus a further 2 subs are ran off just this rack. 1000W total for 4 tops and 4 subs but that's down to how silly efficient the designs are.  Samson unit at the top of the rack is my power distribution (PB10, about $90). I have a single mains cable running into a Neutrik Powercon connector (locking for safety) on the back of the rack which feeds this unit and from this, everything else gets power via IEC connectors on the PB10. I will say one thing about this setup and the fact it's in a case that's moved a lot, the IECs get rattled a lot so before you turn everything on make sure each IEC is in place. Under that is a Behringer DEQ2496 (yellow LCD), this is my EQ and RTA for when I'm putting kit in different rooms, it smooths out the speaker response and makes things sound 'right' and lets you play with the sound so you can tweak it to your liking. These are about $300. Under that again is a Behringer DEQ 2496 (green LCD), this is what stops my speakers from getting killed if someone turns up the volume. It has limited EQ due to the onboard memory being tiny so is poo poo for that but the limiting on it is fantastic and IMO, essential if you're unable to keep watch of your kit at all times it's in use. These are about $250. On the subject of EQ/Limiting, DBX do sell an all in one solution that reviews very well. The PA2 for example is $400 and does the job of both the above Behringer units that I own which is a bonus. It'll also RTA but you'll need to buy a measurement mic to do so which I also had to do with the DEQ. First amp is a Peavey IPR1600 and is wired in to run the tops (smaller speakers) 4 at a time should I need. This has been replaced in the line up by the IPR 2000 and those retail about $400. Second amp is a big heavy QSC GX5 and this runs the subs, again up to 4 at a time. These are also about $400. I know you said you have a generator and that's great but note that digital switching amps like the IPR I have above really don't like being used with generators unless said generator has a really stable power output. It may be worth looking at 2nd hand 'old iron' amps which weigh an absolute ton like the QSC I have but are far less fussy about power input. Add to this a small mixer and a bunch of cabling and you have all you need to run some speakers... And I'd like to add that this was the best purchase I ever made for moving speakers  
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Oct 8, 2015 10:16
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KozmoNaut posted:+1 on this in particular. Seriously, the designs for the subs had a section for installing wheels but the sack truck is so much better than those little 2" diameter wheels ever would've been. It makes things so easy.
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Oct 8, 2015 12:37
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KozmoNaut posted:the best soundbars are a compromise at best. FTFY.
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Nov 9, 2015 15:34
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My room is actually inside a massive horn sub. There's no point arranging the furniture as when I'm listening to music it tends to just arrange itself wherever...
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Dec 9, 2015 13:35
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I've been using Resonic since its inception a few years back and it's real nice. It has a bunch of audio nerd friendly features despite the tiny file size. https://resonic.at/player
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Dec 21, 2015 10:31
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KozmoNaut posted:So, subwoofer/speaker isolation platforms like the Auralex Subdude and GRAMMA, do they actually deliver on their promises or are they mostly snake oil? Considering bass wavelengths can be in excess of 45' long, foam ain't gonna do poo poo, all foam does is stop your sub vibrating the surface it sits on but bass frequencies don't give too much of a gently caress about walls, structures or human bodies. This is how in a nice little gig space fairly far away from any buildings we can get a noise complaint from said fairly far away building where the bass was pretty loving loud. It's also why you can move your sub around your living room to get the best possible output and have a spot in the next room over be far louder than anywhere in the room where the sub is. If your sub is well built it won't vibrate itself but a sub will make something shake somewhere down the line and if you're unlucky it'll be something in a neighbour's house. There's quite literally gently caress all you can do to prevent it bar turning down, and I just hate the thought of that. Low frequencies in general are just a complete nightmare.
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Jan 11, 2016 18:26
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If you're looking to isolate the sub from the wood floor then yeah, grab some foam but ideally the sub(s) housing itself shouldn't be causing vibrations like that if they're designed properly. You'll still have the sound they kick out cause vibration elsewhere though and it's usually this that causes annoyance with neighbours as their pictures start rattling on the walls for no apparent reason. Finding the resonant frequency of the building is a fun game and I suppose you could dial that out a bit to try and kerb complaints.
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Jan 11, 2016 19:46
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For a place only 300sq ft you'd be better off just buying a set of $20 cabled computer speakers, it's not like you're ever far away from your phone or whatever in a place that size.
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Feb 11, 2016 20:19
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ufarn posted:Is there a thread for microphone nerds? I've used those mics before and they're perfectly fine in terms of quality. For the money, superb... And a boom mic stand is a boom mic stand really, if it's going to just sit static then you don't really need to piss money away on exotic things, something like this is more than adequate. http://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/Boom-Mic-Stand-by-Gear4music/3GV
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Mar 3, 2016 16:28
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ufarn posted:Does the mic some with a mic holder, or will I have to buy that separately to plug it into a stand (boom or desktop)? Mics all come with clips as they're not all one standard size. It'll have a screw adaptor in the bottom of it too as mic stands also vary in thread size at the point where you attach the two.  If you're using a keyboard/mouse/shuffling papers or whatever on the desk then you want the mic off the desk top as noise will get transmitted through the stand into the mic itself. A boom stand would be best practice in making sure you get as little unintentional noise as possible. And while mics like that aren't amazing off axis as long as you're not far off it should be fine. Bear in mind you can normalise your recording if it's just voice to stop the annoying fade in/fade out of you moving about.
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Mar 4, 2016 13:00
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Ninkobei posted:can someone point me to the pc audio player thread? using foobar right now and it works perfectly fine but I wonder if there's a newer cooler audio player available Depends what you want in a player really, I like this because it's small and has a fair whack of features; https://resonic.at/home
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Mar 9, 2016 12:30
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If you can't get the mic to clip then your gain structure is wrong somewhere along the line, check the settings on everything!! Mics are usually the one thing that will clip no matter what necessitating you turning down, it's never usually a problem of not loud enough. All modern mics can be used when phantom power is switched on so it's not an issue if you do try it that way, the mic will just ignore it if it doesn't need it and you'll damage exactly nothing. Behringer clips are a bit crap in that they're not very pliable, the upside being they're not going to let go of your mic so force that fucker in.
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Mar 11, 2016 21:33
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Clipping in this instance being the mic output being too loud which causes audible distortion. You don't seem to be able to do so which is odd to say the least.
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Mar 12, 2016 00:27
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I used it very briefly so there's about a dozen tracks with 5 stars. I then realised that any music I load on to my Clip+ is the really good poo poo anyway so it was an entirely pointless endeavour. Any music that gets loaded into Serato or Rekordbox for DJ funtimes is similarly only the good poo poo. Rating stuff for me at least is a complete waste of time. Moving tracks into the correct crates however is something I should actually do as my DJ laptop is a loving mess of files.
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Mar 14, 2016 10:26
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As above. If all you do is throw files into a huge folder and hit shuffle then they're great for that. Once you've started it on shuffle all you need to do the next time you're in the car is switch the thing on and hit the home button twice and it'll carry on playing from where you left off, shuffled. Great little players.
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Mar 15, 2016 11:31
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I've always done 320kbps CBR because I've never felt the need to otherwise. I've also compared WAV to those same MP3s on a big PA tuned flat and noted no loving difference. Even EQd to personal preference there's nowt in there that I can hear that's better or worse between formats. So I just stick with 320s... People that swear they can head a difference just WANT to hear a difference.
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May 25, 2016 11:50
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You guys not have silent discos over there? There's events here which have 3 different DJs playing different tunes in a place where you can listen to any of them whenever you want. It's utterly weird as a spectator. They usually use RF tech though smaller home systems can use Bluetooth/IR... And you can just plug them into the headphone socket of your TV/receiver so as long as it's getting audio, so will the headphones. https://www.sdksales.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions quote:Can I use Over Ear wireless headphones to watch a film, TV, Netflix, Sky, DVD or Blue Ray?
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Oct 11, 2016 09:24
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That would definitely work but I hate audio latency so much that I'd probably just end up getting a couple of sets of headphones with long cables. 32ms as it claims there is pretty good, you'll notice lipsync issues from about 60ms quite dramatically. I had a thing where some stuff played over my home streaming setup was 100ms ahead or behind and it annoyed the piss out of me until I solved the issue. Send them a few questions, it's suggesting that it uses aptX low latency which is 32ms but then also states it uses regular old aptX which has a delay of 165ms which is a fair whack and not something you'd want to put up with. *edit: alternatively watch a few things in VLC and mess with the audio delay to see if it's something you can live with or whether it would gently caress you off.
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Oct 12, 2016 09:21
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Foxtrot_13 posted:I'm thinking of maybe making a couple of pairs of speakers but I have a very basic question. If you have all the tools you'll require and you want to at least try making speakers then do it. If you don't have the tools though you'll spend a bunch of cash, but you may find a new hobby that you enjoy... I've built 9 Bill Fitzmaurice speakers/subs over the past few years and I enjoyed it a lot. Very time consuming, fairly costly initially with outlay on tools but the things I built couldn't be bought for anything like 4x what they cost to build. Just don't factor in your own time and you'll always come out on top 
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Oct 18, 2016 10:14
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Edmond Dantes posted:Two quick mic-related questions: 1) Uni, definitely. 2) A cardioid polar pattern (where it picks up sound from) is like this:  On a handheld mic it rejects more sound from the bottom which would be the side pointed at the audience/stage monitors etc. The AT2020 has the capsule mounted facing the front so it'll reject more of whatever sound comes from behind it, which in your case might be nothing more than your screen. As it's a large diaphragm mic it'll pic up noise easier, they're basically perfect for pick up room ambiance and as you've found out they do that fantastically well. Use it up close and you can bang the gain right down which will stop it picking everything up, they're used as vocal mics for professional recording purposes and if you've ever seen a photo or video of someone doing it they'll be up close (and usually have a pop filter)
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Nov 10, 2016 11:23
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I have a DEQ and DCX. Be wary of the DCX as it lacks memory to do all that much adjustment. I seem to recall it flashing memory warnings at me when trying dynamic EQ with more than a couple of options. DCX is pretty much just a compressor/Limiter/crossover, any EQ needs to be done with the DEQ. I'm fairly sure you can 'upgrade' the memory in a DCX by buying a loving PCMCIA card though. Mine also died on me one time, they don't seat the ribbon cables very well so pop the top and make sure they're solid.
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Nov 24, 2016 15:59
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If they've all been sorted since I got mine then great, I don't use it for anything other than crossover/limiter duty but had a play with it when I first got it.
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Nov 24, 2016 18:16
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gently caress using an entire PC to do the job of a 1u bit of kit.
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Nov 25, 2016 12:15
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I suppose it'd work fine but I definitely prefer a device to just do what it's supposed to, there's less to go wrong. I'm not a fan of fault finding at the best of times, particularly not when I've got a PA to set up or running. And loving around with a monitor and a mouse/keyboard just seems like a miserable waste of time and my patience. Home, yeah do it if you feel you must. Pro audio, nah mate just spend the cash and have piece of mind.
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Nov 25, 2016 13:18
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Yup, my Behringer kit hisses when there's no signal being passed through but then it's in a PA kit so it's never going to be sat switched on with nothing playing through it... I thought they would've figured that issue out by now.
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Nov 30, 2016 13:48
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KozmoNaut posted:(Since you don't have PM) I'm not at home until Wednesday so of you can wait until then, sure.
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Dec 3, 2016 20:11
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KozmoNaut posted:Perfectly fine I'll be checking this later today, sorry.
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Dec 9, 2016 16:10
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KozmoNaut posted:(Since you don't have PM) DEQ hisses but less... It'd probably still be a deal killer for hi-fi
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Dec 13, 2016 01:46
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Aeka 2.0 posted:I was told in this thread that if you have a subwoofer, you need to set the other speakers as "small" in the audio receiver. So what happens when the Audessy setup swiches them to "large, " do I switch it back to small or leave it? If that's happening then it's likely your sub is sat in a null and Audyssey is getting the mains to pump out frequencies the sub should be doing instead. Either that or your sub isn't doing the business/mic is hosed. Try moving it around and running auto EQ again to see what it does.
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Jan 12, 2017 11:09
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Aeka 2.0 posted:The cutoff is around 200 to 300 Hz for the subs in the minidsp if I remember right. What the Audessy does with that I have no idea. Where do the sub(s) and mains crossover? Ideally you want your sub to cover anything up to ~100hz and the mains everything above that. Getting your sub to cover higher than that means that if it's not placed front and centre between the mains (which is rarely the ideal place for it) you can locate it. Having content 100hz and up coming from places other than in front of you sounds very odd indeed and is why stuff like Bose cubes and subs are trash as they're trying to cover 50-500hz in some cases.
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Jan 13, 2017 14:40
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By getting rid of it instead of fixing it you're helping to destroy the world a little bit more and your lady is willing it 
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Jan 18, 2017 00:24
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Are you saying you've tried the receiver with your powered setup and it's creating a hum on the outputs? AV processors are silly money... Could you not put all the speakers and the receiver on the same circuit?
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Jan 19, 2017 19:40
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thegreatcodfish posted:I've tried a USB soundcard. I've hooked up my receiver to the HDMI output with unpowered speakers and there was no hum, but my nicer speakers are powered and my receiver doesn't have preamp outs for the front channels. Everything is hooked up to the same surge protector, and I've tried a few so it's not a bad strip. So how do you have them connected when they're buzzing? How do you get sound to them?
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Jan 20, 2017 11:40
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