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Whatup dogz. I'm back especially for this forum. You can still find my speakerguide at http://shsc.info/Speakerguide and I guess I now have a reason to finish it. But I think it's still useful for the basics.
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Mar 31, 2007 11:03
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pliable posted:Perhaps you can help me by expanding your recommendation section for HTIB's? Trouble is I am located in Europe. At this point, I am somewhat checking all the recommendations in this forum for deals that apply in America so I can compile them together and get my guide up to speed. HTIB with hdmi should get cheaper pretty soon but right now you might be out of luck. It's always tricky to match the price of HTIB with a seperate deal if you need 5.1 surround. And if you don't, there is no reason to buy a HTIB set. I used to own a Yamaha set and the receiver lacked some features the real model had (for example I could only use yamaha subs because of a system connector etc). Incidentally, the speakers and the sub were terrible for music. They were fine for movies. What I am saying is that HTIB sets are, more often than not, the cheapest way to get receiver and 5.1 surround. Not the best way, mind you, but the quickest and cheapest. So if hdmi is not available at a reasonable price right now, maybe you could go stereo first, surround later? Maybe you can find some cheap surround speakers now that you can replace later. Yeah I am not a huge help cause I don't have concrete recommendations right now, but the way I see it, it becomes more and more feasonable to use active speakers and plug them right into the decoder, in your case your console and let the hdtv eat the hdmi for picture, if possible.
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Apr 3, 2007 22:49
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Atomon posted:As of right now, I know absolutely nothing about audio. I like music, and I like it even more when it sounds good. That's about the extent of my audio knowledge. I'm graduating from high school next month, and my parents have agreed to buy me an audio system as a graduation gift. I'd really like to get to know more about this sort of thing, and I could also use some help picking specific equipment from you goons out there that clearly know a hell of a lot more than I do. How can I begin to learn more about this sort of thing? Are there some price points that I should know about? I don't have a specific budget in mind, but since it's a graduation gift I'd imagine my parents are willing to spend a nice amount. I'm sorry if I'm not providing the required information, I just know so little that I don't know what is required. Thanks in advance for your help. Do you have any ideas what budget you could go? My recommendation? Two studio monitors (active) connected to your computer. You need two cables and it fits perfectly in every dorm. And if you have the space you can set it up nicely and have the best sound available for your money. Initial recommendations include Mackie HR series monitors or Focal's. No really, what is your budget.
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Apr 18, 2007 20:28
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MC Fruit Stripe posted:Can't really find specific details on this one. Short version: - The advantage of SACD and DVD-A is 5.1. Everything else is a pile of steaming bullshit. - Vinyl is vastly inferior to a CD in every way possible. The distortion may sound pleasant to some (warmth) Long version: - 24bit is beneficial for mixing purposes because it allows for a greater range of dynamics. This makes working ITB (in the box) easier for modern recordings. However, there is no instrument that has a dynamic range that can not be reproduced by a CD. So when mixed down to 16bit, there is no loss of information except for noise. - By theory, you require at least 40khz to render a frequency range from 20 to 20k hz. The introduction of 96khz theoretically means that samples are processed with more accuracy. In reality this makes no difference whatsoever. The downsampling process to 44.1khz, however, can introduce errors - Todays CD-Rom drives read a CD perfectly. If you plan on using an expensive-rear end CD player you should realise that even Meridian players (5000$+) have the same drive installed as your Dell. Yeah, audiophiles are that stupid. - There is controversy how beneficial better D/A A/D convertors are. It is, however, clear, that those changes are miniscule compared to how speakers and room alter the sound - Vinyl is very imperfect in every way. The SNR and by that the dynamic range is a joke compared to a CD. However, all analogue equipment introduces distortion, which might be perceived pleasant.
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Apr 21, 2007 01:12
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I_am_sancho posted:I just got what i would consider a pretty decent sony mini hi fi stereo off ebay. The sound quality is definitely a step up from my old logitech 5.1 speakers, but the speakers only go down to about 70Hz. I really do like to feel a bit of a rumble in my gut, so i was considering buying this ridiculously cheap sub: hahaha oh god, please do not purchase from this company. I know few subs that REALLY go down to 20hz. They all cost a ton of money. No sub will go down to 10hz +/- 1db. If you are lucky, this subwoofer will go to 50hz +/-6db. This company is so full of poo poo I can't believe this page actually exists.
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May 9, 2007 12:44
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ShoogaSlim posted:Since I am just getting into this kind of thing as well and I can tell you it's probably going to cost more than that for a good receiver and speaker setup. I went to J&R and found out that a setup I was interested in was going to cost around 1200-1300. 600 for the receiver and around 600 for the speakers and subwoofer and all that. I'm sure someone else can give you more info. Why would you drop half of the money on a receiver? The speakers are responsible for like 80% of the sonic quality. The receiver, not so much.
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May 30, 2007 12:27
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orborborb posted:This is not true. But it is.
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Jun 15, 2007 14:56
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I'd like to add in my broken moon-language english that tube amps add harmonics that are typically multiples of the original signal, whereas solid state amps, if overdriven, add random harmonics (basically noise). Harmonics that are multiples like times 2, times 4 and so on sound very pleasant to the ear and in fact sound like you are "coloring" the instrument (the typical sound of an instrument is a basic tone and characteristic multiple harmonics). Comb filtering is obviously a factor, too. What you can do is get a VST host for your media player and get a "tube warmer" or "tube saturiser" plugin and push it to 100% saturation. This way you can get a decent picture of what a typical tube amp is "supposed" to sound like. If you don't care, I really recomment a digital amplifier. They are smaller and much more effective, do not produce that much heat and do not break quite as fast.
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Jun 24, 2007 00:58
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WanderingKid posted:Its mostly subjective. Mostly not. All speakers should have the same distance to you, ideally. Also, the fronts should be the same distance to each other as they are to you (normal stereo triangle). Tweeter on ear level. Usually the Side Rears shouldn't be too far behind you as well. And THEN you can go ahead and tweak.
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Jul 17, 2007 21:07
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DonkeyHotay posted:I recently inherited a pair of Bose 901-II's from my dad, and I'm having some problems setting them up. How are Input and Output connected? Isn't "Input" coming from your amp? Usually Tape in and Out are for recording (LPs) and not needed. All you usually need is one input and one output and this isn't different for EQs. So connect it to any direct out in your amp. Usually amps will have something like a preamp out (especially 5.1 receiver). Find that and connect the fronts. Or use tape-out and activate tape recording in the settings of your receiver. You might find that the speaker sounds like poo poo regardless because... well... it's Bose.
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Jul 26, 2007 13:06
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crm posted:Dumb question(s) - is there really any point to buying some big floor standing speakers over a pair of decently powered bookshelves? I've just got a 16x16 room I'm trying to set up the audio half of a home theater in. Both can be good, both can be bad. It's one factor of speaker design but not the only one. For a small room I would prefer bookshelfs. If you get good ones then you will have enough bass. The option of adding a subwoofer later is always there for both types.
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Jul 30, 2007 12:41
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