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Whoa, I'm getting to this thread late. girlscoutdropout, I think your Jack is a French lop like my Hollandaise, who is around 9 pounds:  This girl is the big boss. Holly's hobbies include rearranging her cage, playing with toys that make noises, and being told she's so pretty. I also have two mini-rexes: Mister Peep  and his sidekick Dayton  all pretending like he wasn't thinking about stealing the peanuts from that Drumstick. These two boys like to gang up on humans, one will be a distraction while the other tries to drag away anything that crinkles (ie bags of tortilla chips, etc). All 3 are rescue buns and the best companions anyone could ask for.
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Jul 11, 2007 04:29
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girlscoutdropout posted:cube stuff Trotting out my cube cage pictures for yet another bunny thread   (sorry about the mess)  These cubes are really awesome and inexpensive building materials.
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Jul 18, 2007 04:18
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Foranzan posted:clipping their nails is a huge ordeal Have you tried trancing them? Nothing else works with my buns. Also, everything alucinor said was great stuff.
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Jul 19, 2007 03:18
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TheDeadKnow posted:Is having two buns better than just one, overall? I know they are social critters...drat it, Momiji, neutering you will be expensive!....but if it means he can have a buddy after, it's worth it. I say yes. If you've seen how happy two bonded bunnies are with each other, you'll know why. It's also not that much more work than just one, so in the end a good move to ensure bunny happiness.
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Jul 19, 2007 05:01
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Deceptor101 posted:If anyone has any tips for a first timer, I'd love to hear them. By the way, those cube cages look awesome, I'll have to build her one. Build a cube cage asap. Read everything about rabbit health and nutrition on the HRS website. Get awesome and very reasonably priced bunny toys from The Busy Bunny (the willow balls are a big hit around my house). Get a second bun as soon as possible.
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Jul 22, 2007 08:55
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Deceptor101 posted:find some good carpet scraps Looks really good so far! I got my rugs at Walmart, they're pretty cheap there. The last time I bought new rugs for the bottom floor, they had a size that fit pretty much perfectly for about $13.
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Jul 23, 2007 16:29
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KingColliwog posted:How much money do you think you spend on your house bunny each month on average? I have pretty much the same answers to your questions as everyone else, but I wanted to add that one of the main differences between rabbits and other pets is you should expect to pay much more for vet care as rabbits are considered exotics by vets (meaning you will/should take them to an exotics vet).
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Aug 27, 2007 03:15
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If I recall correctly, there's a few people in PI who use harnesses or walking jackets for their buns. You need to let them get used to wearing the thing first before taking them out and about, and I would probably only take my rabbits out to an area I know will be quiet and without many people or other animals around. I'd never actually use a collar and leash, you'd probably have the bun snap it's own neck in panic quite easily.
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Sep 9, 2007 17:30
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I just wanted to add in reference to the earlier posts in this thread about the Furminator that I just went out and bought one this week, and I've been really impressed with it so far. Anyone who is still pondering whether it's worth spending the money on one, they're really great. Worth every penny.
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Sep 12, 2007 06:04
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a) With the cube cage, how do you get the waste out? Her current ones have slide out trays, which work great. Makes for very easy cleaning.(Edit: Oh, it looks like there's a litter box in one of the cages. This rabbit is about 4 years old now, is it too late to litter box train it? It likes to play in the cats litter box when it's in the house.) I think litter training is still well worth a try at this point. Holly was almost 3 when we started litter training her and she took to it just fine. If you still have problems, most people use coroplast for the flooring (you can buy it cheaply at sign stores) which will give you a plasticky bottom to the cage you can just wipe clean. I would still try to litter train first though, and make sure you aren't using cat litter but something like Carefresh or Feline Pine. You can read more about litter training on the HRS website that's been linked over and over in this thread. b) Where's the door on the cube cages? I can't seem to spot one. The doors are built in and in my pictures shown as closed with carabiners. They cost about $.99 and are quite effective. c) What stops the rabbit from crapping/peeing on the carpet on the "third floor"? Nothing? Most rabbits will habitually crap and pee in the same spot, so if you litter train them that helps. My boys will sometimes leave little territorial poops on the top floor but that's not such a big deal. d) How expensive are the cube cages? I spent about $65 on the boys' 2-story cage including the carpeting, it took 2 boxes of the cubes from Target, 2 supportive dowels, a container of zip ties, and 2 carabiners. I used the boxes that the cubes came in to reinforce the floors. Holly's 3-story cage cost a bit more because it was another box of cubes plus it was my first time building one, so I spent too much on the initial carpeting (FYI cage builders - Walmart has a perfectly sized rug in several colors that fits in a 2x3 cube floor for $13 or so).
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Oct 8, 2007 06:47
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girlscoutdropout posted:I've heard bunnies can live on hay and veggies alone, but it's always good to be on the safe side and have pellets to snack on. My rabbits are on a hay and veggie diet (no pellets at all) and are thriving, though it takes more work on my part to make sure they're getting what they need nutritionally. edit: NMR: Rabbits are considered exotic animals where vets are concerned so make sure you're taking your bun to an exotics vet. Cornstarch baths may be helpful if his rump is messy from the runs, you can find instructions at this site. Also, I've found that one way to encourage a rabbit to eat is to gently bump the nose with greens, but if you're still having trouble you may want to consider using a syringe (like the type you would use to feed baby animals) to feed soft food like strained carrots (baby food) just to make sure he's getting something in his stomach. I hope he feels better soon. candeh fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Oct 29, 2007 |
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Oct 29, 2007 08:38
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I am Dan I am posted:Who would tattoo a bunny A breeder or an owner who wants to show the rabbit at an ARBA event.
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Dec 10, 2007 15:22
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Cowslips Warren posted:What is the best way to clip bunny nails? Mo's are getting a bit long, though for some reason Cowslip's are not. I do have a dog nail clipper for my small MinPins, but even with Kwikstop around, I'm not exactly leaping for the chance to take two flighty rabbits and trim their nails down. Trancing will be your best bet. I always do it with a friend around so they can hold the bunny in position while I trim the nails.
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Jan 2, 2008 05:16
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Master_Jay posted:(cute pictures) You're doing a great job so far, especially with taking the bun to the vet. I noticed in your pictures that you appear to be using pine shavings, which is thought to cause liver damage in buns. Here's a link to what the HRS recommends for litter. Good luck!
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Jan 5, 2008 16:38
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Master_Jay posted:Two questions: He's still pretty young for hay. Here's what the House Rabbit Society has to say about diet according to age.
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Jan 20, 2008 08:28
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knifefish posted:She is not fixed, mainly because she's an absolute sweetheart and I don't want her to change. knifefish posted:experience has taught me that if she is given the chance, she will poo poo and pee all over it You should get your rabbit spayed, both because of the high likelihood that without it she will die of cancer and because it will also help you solve the poo poo/pee on your bed issue.
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Feb 22, 2008 17:26
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Bagleworm posted:I've looked everywhere for some sort of flexible, hard tubing, can't find any. You should be able to find something appropriate at any store that sells cable management supplies, like Office Depot. Ikea has some for really cheap, if you live near one of their stores. Another thing you can try is getting some large diameter airline tubing from a pet store and cut it down one side, and slip the cord in there.
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Apr 17, 2008 18:58
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StrangersInTheNight posted:Also, I have a question - how do you guys deal with people who assume too much about bunnies? One of my room-mates, though a sweet guy, cannot get it through his head that bunnies are not like cats or dogs, and regularly expresses concern about how we care for the bunny. Sgt Pepper is really cute. As for your roommate, you could direct him to the House Rabbit Society website where he can view a lot of information that indicates you're doing right by your bunny. Obviously his heart is in the right place, so I think some research into house rabbit care might assuage his fears.
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Apr 20, 2008 18:56
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DS at Night posted:Any tips for responsibly cooling down a rabbit? Put a piece of marble or tile in her cage that she can lay down on. Freezing a 2-liter full of water does help as well.
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May 8, 2008 17:13
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Bunway Airlines posted:Unfortunately Romaine isn't that nutritious, I would try kale, chard, collards, spinach or other dark greens. My two go nuts over kale. Be careful with feeding too much kale, it is high in oxalates. Here's a useful chart for feeding veggies.
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Oct 9, 2008 18:20
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angelicism posted:Is there a site where I can buy bunny toys or something? The Busy Bunny is great.
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Oct 19, 2008 02:24
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blue_kameleon posted:Unfortunately, we can't really afford anything better, You really shouldn't have a rabbit if you can't afford a cage. A C&C cage is like $60-75 to build. You should also have $200-300 on hand at all times for vet emergencies. Rabbits are expensive pets to keep. Maybe you should rethink this decision before you get more attached, especially since you have already determined you are allergic to rabbits and your apartment is not pet friendly. This is a disaster waiting to happen.
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Oct 22, 2008 23:32
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blue_kameleon posted:I think I've explained that the delay is financial, but I've repeatedly assured you that as soon as we have money he will get proper treatment ie: within a week, we will have everything he needs to live happily and healthily. If you think that that week is too long and that he'd be better of going to HRS or that thats less traumatic than shipping him to you, I think you're wrong. I think you should take the rabbit to a house rabbit society shelter unless you are going to move out of your apartment into a place that's pet friendly and larger than your current place. Even if you solve your current financial dilemma, you will still be allergic to the rabbit and run the risk of being evicted if your landlord discovers you have a pet. You are obviously not in a position to take care of an animal, especially one as financially demanding as a rabbit.
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Oct 25, 2008 03:09
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Megalodon posted:I know that this post is years old, but I was wondering if anybody knows where I could find this wire cube organizer, and if it's better than buying a pen at the pet store. I assume Home Depot would carry something like this? Just wanted to add that I've seen these cubes in a number of places. Target does carry them but as previously mentioned, the size of the internal squares on the grids are only sufficient on about 9 panels per box of theirs, so buyer beware. I have seen them for sale at Costco with only the correct size grid, but this may be based on the location. They are also sold at Walmart (16 panels for $25). It is much more cost-efficient than buying one from a pet store, especially since you will have a hard time finding a large enough cage at a pet store and would probably have to order one from a cage manufacturer. The cube cages are definitely the way to go. If you look up "c&c cages" on Google, you can find out more about these kind of cages (cube and coroplast).
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Aug 15, 2009 03:35
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blue_kameleon posted:If I want an open-top pen for my rabbit, what is the minimum height? If I make it two grids high, will that be enough? I remember you. Unless you are no longer allergic to rabbits, have moved to a different apartment complex where pets are allowed, and now have money to take your pets to the vet and get proper housing and supplies, you may want to hold off. I am truly sorry about your other rabbit. Based on the last photo you posted, however, it looks like you were still keeping her in the same cage that we all told you was very dangerous. If your circumstances have not changed since your initial posting in this thread, you do not have a proper situation for a rabbit.
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Aug 16, 2009 01:04
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Target does sell zipties but there's somewhere completely bizarre. I want to say they are in Automotive but I'm not sure. That threw me for a loop as well. Glad you found the cubes, keep us posted.
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Aug 18, 2009 05:05
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Deceptor101 posted:Cilantro is a great looking bun! Her bone structure and poses really remind me of Ben, do you know what breed she is? I've never known Ben's breed and I've always been curious. Thanks. Looks like a satin or mini satin, having a hard time with scale in these photos. DS at Night posted:What a beautiful rabbit. What breed is that, do you know? An orange mini rex and a fawn mini rex.
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Sep 10, 2009 00:59
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Scooty Puff Jr. posted:Does anyone know what could cause rabbit poop to be orange? I know that my rabbits have orange-tinged poop when they've been given too many carrots. My father took care of them when I was hospitalized and he loved giving them carrots because "rabbits just love them!" Too much of a good, sugary thing. Do you mean orangish-brown or literally orange?
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Nov 4, 2009 20:06
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Bagleworm posted:Uh, nail clipping woes. How are you holding them? Bunny burrito? Have you tried trancing them? angelicism posted:I have a huge problem doing Zen's nails: she's brown, her nails are brown, there's not a whole lot of color differentiation between where it's just nail and where the blood line is so I always cut way too little. One of her nails is bending out a little and I know I have to clip it but I'm still too terrified to hit blood. I have the same problem. I have my nail-clipping partner hold a flashlight behind the nail and it shows where the quick is clearly.
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Dec 21, 2009 20:41
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Ragnarok Plus posted:I'm told the two I was given are 8 weeks old now and have NOT been sexed nor have they seen a vet so I'm trying to find reviews on vets in the area. For anyone in the know, I live in south Orange County if you've got one to recommend! I used to live in Irvine and I took my various pets to Dr. Mabley at Arbor Animal Hospital for many many years. They are really terrific. The last time I was there, we saw Dr. Andrew who was also very kind and really knew his stuff. I have also taken my rabbits to see Dr. Barbara Starr at Noah's Ark Fullerton Animal Hospital. I would say that she is more knowledgeable about rabbits but not as personable if that makes a difference for you. Here is the rabbit-savvy vet list from the rescue organization I adopted my dwarfs from. Good luck, dwarf breeds are a lot of bun in a little package.
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Dec 26, 2009 19:06
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Ehud posted:We found this little guy at a local breeder Please please please consider adopting from a rescue instead of buying from a breeder. You would probably be surprised at how many homeless rabbits there are in shelters. If you look around, you can probably find a Lionhead.
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Mar 8, 2010 15:58
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Ehud posted:Thanks for the links. We definitely want to do something that helps out an animal. We contacted the breeder with the white and black lionhead and found out they are moving to Virginia and are struggling to get rid of the bunnies before moving. So they've got the bunnies discounted to like $25 since they can't take them to Virginia with them and don't want to have to put them in a shelter. It's not about anyone here being upset with you. But the fact is that responsible breeders don't do what this breeder is doing - breeding animals with no contingency plans and no homes waiting, and then "discounting" them to get rid of them quickly. Selling this rabbit to you is most likely not their last act as a "breeder". This does not mean that we won't try to help you with your new companion.
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Mar 8, 2010 20:08
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Melicious posted:Bowser So sorry to hear this.
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Mar 10, 2010 05:22
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Windy posted:I don't want to have to give him baths, but I was wondering if anyone had ides on what I can do to help him keep clean. Cornstarch bath instructions
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Mar 16, 2010 12:32
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dopaMEAN posted:Then he gave me a recommendation for a vet. You should call this vet's office as soon as possible and find out if he/she is an EXOTICS vet. Your garden-variety vet knows nothing about rabbits, they are considered an exotic animal. Then, take her to the vet and have her checked out to make sure she's healthy. The vet may be able to give you a better idea of how old she is as well. I'm sure the pet store guy has the best intentions, but pet store people are usually misinformed. You should also find out where the closest emergency vet that handles exotics is located.
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Oct 10, 2010 11:19
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Oxbow is good, but Kleenmama's is better. My buns love the bluegrass (KM's version of orchard grass) and when it isn't in season I order the 3rd cut timothy hay. The shipping costs as much as the hay but it still comes out to be less expensive than buying hay at the pet store. To give a rough idea, I just paid about $45 for 25 lbs. of bluegrass hay. If I were buying the equivalent amount at Petsmart, it would cost $125 plus tax. It has also been my experience that KM's quality is higher and there is less dust in the bag. Their hay is also very fresh and retains its nutrients longer. If you can manage it, KM is the way to go.
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Oct 11, 2010 01:18
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Skizzles posted:Um... what advice would you guys have for a rabbit noob who just found an abandoned rabbit? You're doing a great job so far. Make sure that the rabbit is thoroughly dried, you mentioned that he was wet due to the rain. Pellets are not the best thing for him but due to the situation it is a decent temporary solution. Provide him with some fresh herbs like parsley or cilantro, or dark leaf veg (not iceberg lettuce). Watch to make sure he is eating and pooping. The cage is small but let him have free-run time (in a bunny-proofed room and/or with close supervision) every day, minimum one hour but hopefully as much as possible. The thing I am most concerned about is his wound. I would contact an exotics vet and explain the situation, and see if you can get him examined. If he was bit by a cat, for example, it is easy for the wound to become infected. You may want to contact a local chapter of the House Rabbit Society and see if they have a suggestion for vet treatment - again, explain the situation and that you are willing to foster him, but that he needs to be seen for his injury. He looks very sweet but it may be hard to find him a forever home, a lot of people are put off by red-eyed whites (REW) which is what he appears to be from the pictures. It's too bad because they are very sweet and loving creatures  Just be patient and continue to give him love and affection, it is the best thing you can do at the moment.
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Nov 30, 2010 22:37
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Skizzles posted:OH, totally forgot to mention, I already have a vet appointment set up for him tomorrow morning to get it treated. This is great as long as it's an exotic vet. Cat/dog vets will often claim to treat rabbits but in truth don't know about their care, rabbits are considered an exotic animal. http://www.aemv.org/vetlist.cfm is a good list by state/country of exotic mammal vets and your local HRS can also recommend a trusted vet. It's particularly important to be sure because it is likely the rabbit will need antibiotics and some which are ok for dogs/cats are absolutely fatal to rabbits. Here is a list of antibiotics which are harmful to rabbits that you can print and bring with you to the vet: http://bit.ly/e8ilae. Baytril is generally the antibiotic of choice for rabbits. Again, you are doing a really good job!
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Nov 30, 2010 22:54
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Bear in mind that is not a complete list, it is only a list of vets who are part of the Association of Exotic Mammal Vets. Interesting that they just happen to have a vet starting tomorrow that knows rabbits... I would get the vet's name and try to find info on him/her, see if I can find where they practiced before (think like you're going to see a Specialist doctor for yourself).
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Dec 1, 2010 00:08
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Skizzles posted:Well if it helps, this is the same vet office I use for my cats/dog. I am sure that they are a great place to take a cat or dog but rabbits are not the same thing at all. Small mammals (including rabbits) are considered "exotic animals" by vet standards, in the same way that birds and reptiles are. Their care and physiology isn't covered in depth in the general curriculum for cat/dog vets, which is why you want to take them to an exotic vet (who has been further educated on their care and needs, and will have ongoing practical experience with rabbits). Please understand that this is not about how good the vet is with your cats or dogs, but that this is mostly likely completely out of their realm of experience and understandably so. Please keep us posted on what happened at the vet, regardless of where you go! candeh fucked around with this message at 11:05 on Dec 1, 2010 |
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Dec 1, 2010 11:01
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