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TrueChaos posted:Five hours for a front swaybar on a miata? you have to either cut the stock swaybar out or disconnect and drop the steering rack
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Apr 1, 2021 01:53
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Virgil Vox posted:If you go the DIY route this is a great guide: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=709333 , I used this but couldn't manage to fish the bar (flyin miata) through so I loosened the radiator support brackets to give me like a 1/2" more clearance. Nice. Yeah the sway bar install on a nd seemed tricky based off just the comments I read on the flyin Miata product page ( 8 hr installs reported). I’m not sure why it’s deemed outlandish to be charged 5 hours labor for this if I don’t end up doing it myself. And +1 to the idea of altering one aspect of ride via sway bar over impacting multiple as a noob getting started.
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Apr 1, 2021 06:58
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Seven hundred bucks to install an sway bar is pretty outlandish. Like "quit your cushy corporate job" level money.
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Apr 1, 2021 08:16
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Two small jobs completed today. First up: Rear bumper cover swap    I'm noticing the "new" bumper cover isn't fitting as tight to the body on the driver side but don't see anything that could holding it off. Don't feel like figuring it out right now. Second: Swapped steering wheels   
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Apr 3, 2021 01:03
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Hey folks! I got a question for you. What is this thing in the pic that is cracked?  What is it called? Where can I get another at a reasonable price? No junkyards near me. Also, how bad is it as it is and is it idicatative of other problems? Thanks! Ed 95 na
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Apr 4, 2021 01:31
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Beltline cover. Fairly pricy from Mazda considering what it actually is. Not entirely sure how you'd damage it, it isn't exactly in the way of anything.
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Apr 4, 2021 01:48
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Beltline cover. Fairly pricy from Mazda considering what it actually is. Not entirely sure how you'd damage it, it isn't exactly in the way of anything. I tried googling that and all that came up was the plastic cover, this is aluminum or some kind of pot metal with bolts in it looks like it hold the top to the frame.
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Apr 4, 2021 02:29
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You're talking about the broken bit, right? Known as a beltline cover on here which is a spot which gets in OEM Mazda stuff. You could email and ask for the part number perhaps. https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/beltline-cover-mazda-mk1-p-1203.html
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Apr 4, 2021 03:05
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Olympic Mathlete posted:You're talking about the broken bit, right? Known as a beltline cover on here which is a spot which gets in OEM Mazda stuff. You could email and ask for the part number perhaps. Ok Cool! Thanks, I was googling ant it was just showing the plastic that goes over the rim. Weird. Thank you!
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Apr 4, 2021 03:21
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 Nice to be small
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Apr 9, 2021 18:24
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Ah, crap. I lost my keys for my 90 Miata. Rummaging through the drawers I found a Mazda key that operates my doors, glovebox, center console, and trunk. It does not operate the ignition. I don't own any other 90s Mazdas, what the hell key did I find? This doesn't make sense as a valet key, it doesn't operate the ignition but works everywhere else. Did the 90 miata have VIN matched keys? Wondering if the dealer can cut a new key...
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Apr 11, 2021 03:57
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horse_ebookmarklet posted:Ah, crap. If it works in the glovebox it should work everywhere else. One of my Miata keys was worn enough to only work in ignition one way up, so maybe try flipping it 180 degrees.
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Apr 11, 2021 06:11
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The glovebox and ignition are keyed same? What should the valet key work in, and what should the other key work in? I've tried both orientations. Jiggling the key. Raking the key. The steering column interlock is on. So I've tried at both maximum deflections of the wheel and all the bits in between. I've put enough force on the key that I felt it start to yield but stopped before I broke the key. I squirted some penetrating lube into the cylinder and will try again tomorrow. I was reading that the passenger side lock has a key bitting stamped on that, was gonna pull the door card tomorrow if the lube didn't free it.
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Apr 11, 2021 07:15
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Valley key operates door and ignition but not the trunk, glovebox, or arm box. I’d try dealer with vin first before taking things apart.
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Apr 11, 2021 15:00
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Does the tow chain make it look like it is a happy car?
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Apr 11, 2021 19:10
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Makes me want to yank it
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Apr 11, 2021 19:23
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pastor of muppets posted:Now that I’m 100% WFH I’d been hemming and hawing about selling my Mazda6 that I no longer need (it’s a 2017 Touring, with a six-speed manual, so it’s a bit of a unicorn and I was terrified I’d regret selling it) but last weekend I got a wild hair up my rear end and traded in both it and my ND1 (that I’ve owned only a year, they gave me more than I paid for it on trade-in lmao) and upgraded to a ND2 RF.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:25
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 Bet you can’t spot the nd2 in this blurry pic put the expensive sway bar install on hold, got a Goodwin roadstersport street muffler install instead, sounds great
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Apr 11, 2021 19:40
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pr0craztinazn posted:Congrats! Do you find the various improvements from the ND1 to be noticeable? A ND2 RF in the same Deep Crystal Blue like yours is on my list of vehicles to consolidate into by selling my NA and Fiesta ST. Thanks! I had my heart set on the Deep Crystal Blue since my 6 was the same color. It’s a pain in the rear end to keep looking good, but when it’s clean, it’s gorgeous. And yeah, the extra power makes a huge difference between the ND1 and ND2. I don’t really notice the LSD vs the open diff I had before, to be honest, but I’m also not tracking either vehicle. A lot of the QoL improvements are nice, especially the wireless CarPlay. I miss being able to just toss back the top in a couple seconds, but the RF is definitely quieter, and rear visibility is surprisingly better with the top up, too.
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Apr 11, 2021 23:00
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Last weekend went well at Summit in WV. Back again this weekend for autox. Finally fixed the rear O2 sensor I fried at MATG last summer, nice to be rid of the CEL. I'm liking the Fed RSRRs so far, they seem easy to read. Next is putting the ultrashield back in to more easily pass the broomstick test.
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Apr 17, 2021 02:44
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Following up with my previous post, I had the dealer cut me a new key based on VIN. The new key didn't work, FFFFF!!!! Apparently at some point the ignition cylinder (at a minimum) was replaced, explains why I had a different key to open the trunk. Should have been obvious in retrospect. I pulled the whole ignition keyswitch assembly out (Airbag, clockspring dealy, wheel). Hammering out the bolts sucked real hard. Looks like the cylinder is held in with blind pins, which sounds terrible to remove. I'd probably have to buy a drill press. Anyone ever replaced the cylinder? Looks like they sell just the cylinders, having trouble finding the whole assembly for a '90 Miata... Wonder if a locksmith can make a key based by decoding the existing cylinder? My zero cost option is essentially to put momentary and toggle switches into the dash.... Making sure to disconnect the battery when parked.....
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Apr 18, 2021 02:31
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NA you can start and run by shorting ignition switch wires. I had to rip out PO’s stupid “security” from 92 and he cut the ignition wires for bypass too short to reconnect properly. Look at the wiring diagram for starter relay colour, collect the rest all together for accessory and run power that touch the starter to the bundle and done.
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Apr 18, 2021 03:09
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comedy option is shorting wires. I do love big sparks BUT... Not having a key also causes issues with the steering wheel lock, I could only drive in concentric circles! I was thinking of having 3 toggle switches (ACC, On, Start). Possibly 4 as the On has two sets of contacts that get connected.
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Apr 18, 2021 03:22
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Hi again Miaaaaaaata thread, I'm very nearly done with the frame rails and the new pieces have some satisfyingly thick welds on them so those are going to be all good. I've been chasing rusty bits and have found a patch behind the arch liner on the body, right by the seam just above the front sill so that'll need chopping out. I've noticed these cars (or at least mine?) rust in the oddest ways due to how they're put together. My current favourite is the little compartment which houses the wipers and dumps any water/debris right into the wing where there's nowhere for it to escape at the bottom. Oh and the back of the front arches which has mounting hole for the plastic mounting plugs on the liner which just goes right inside the chassis instead of something a little more waterproof like a nut/bolt setup. I also believe whoever did the seam sealing couldn't be arsed because there's a few spots where there's just layers of metal open to the elements, so I'll be rectifying that. What a fantastic yet terrible car! I can't wait to be done with this and enjoying driving it. I'll be sure to put some cash aside for inevitable rot repair in the future, I'm not sure if I want to be bothered doing it myself!
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Apr 19, 2021 09:54
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Anyone have a good solution for rearview mirror relocation / adjustment for an ND? It's... very much in the way. I see a 400$ seat lowering option which'll lower me another ~1-1.5 inches but requires cutting the car.. I'd rather look for mirror solutions e: huh, shows it as adjustable in manual, seemed fixed on inspection, will take a look  e2: yup, it do go up. Gotta use some extra force (as compared to adjusting tilt). Awesome! Thom ZombieForm fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 20, 2021 19:51
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I'm always scared I'm going to pop the mounting tab off the windshield every time I go to adjust a new mirror that's all tight.
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Apr 21, 2021 01:53
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In case you wanted some photos of the fun of hacking out and replacing chassis rails. The set that I bought were a full sides/bottom deal in a U shape and I quickly realised that trying to get it to fit nicely in one piece was going to be a nightmare so I hacked one of the sides off each and set to carefully hacking out the crap and welding in some good clean metal again. On the right side after having my head inside the engine bay doing the left side and finding it pretty loving awkward I tried working from the inside of the frame rail out, that was a lot better. It meant I had to spend less time with my head in the bay as the welding was like 90% done, I just neatened it up a bit. Left side     Right side   Shiny new bit to replace the sway bar mount that I hacked out and the end links I am going to just annihilate instead of loving around with. Waiting on the sway bar. 
Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 11:49 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 11:44
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Ordered some sills because I wasn't totally convinced the previous work done on them is 100% up to scratch. So for peace of mind I'm just gonna whip them off and install some new new instead, that way I can deal with any other issues I may find along the way. Underneath generally is solid so that's good, just a little crusty on the suspension arms etc but if I need to, those are easily swapped out. Losing precious sunny days to all this work.
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Apr 26, 2021 13:48
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2016 ND Today marks the second time I've found a crack in my windshield starting at the lower drivers-side and working diagonally up and into my field of view. Is the windshield considered a consumable part on this car, or am I just really unlucky to have this exact same thing happen twice in 5 years??? ChickenOfTomorrow fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 00:41
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ChickenOfTomorrow posted:Fuckin 12 inch crack in my windshield and no sign where it came from. Fine when i parked for the night, cracked the next morning. oh hey look here I am talking about it when it happened the first time ChickenOfTomorrow fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 00:45
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I went through windshields about every 3 years with my NA/NB/NCs. Thin glass for lightness and close to the ground = consumable item.
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Apr 28, 2021 00:49
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Yeah, it's probably something I need to get used to. But since this is almost exactly the same crack as last time, happening while the car was parked and with no sign of damage that caused it, I'm worrying about a defect or stress point or something that's making it keep happening.
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Apr 28, 2021 00:57
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Do you have free replacements through your insurance? In my state it's required because of our crazy weather.
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Apr 28, 2021 06:37
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I'm pretty sure I'm still on the original in my NB, even though it does get hit occasionally
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Apr 28, 2021 07:11
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Lotus Elise seat trip report: Mounted the driver's seat with flipside brackets to the factory slider. I sit a little lower, definitely further back from the wheel but have less space between the factory wheel and my legs. I got tree trunk legs and I think the recline the brackets put the seat at exacerbates the problem. Wheel now feels further away when I got my legs at the proper distance. I like the seats, the brackets are nice. Just not the right fit for me. Next will be trying foamectomy and/or Tillet B5.
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Apr 28, 2021 15:11
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ChickenOfTomorrow posted:2016 ND I'm doing this right now on an ND! Anyone have tips on the best places to get the mandatory windshield garnishes? My local dealers all tell me to just have Safelite do everything, and that they don't carry garnishes as replacement parts, because they are not necessary. Safelite tried to do the job twice, then told me that I need garnishes before they will try it again, but that I need to buy garnishes for them in advance. What's a good online resource for Mazda parts these days? Why is this such a pain in the rear end? https://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/Service%20Caution%20when%20installing%20Windshield%20Garnish.pdf is the TSB you might want for whoever does your windshield. The nearest dealers to me say they've never seen it, but the auto-glass companies sure seem to think it isn't a normal windshield to replace.
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Apr 30, 2021 16:25
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The wee blue devil is out of winter storage  So much fun tossing that 10AE around the corners even at mostly legal speeds 
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Apr 30, 2021 16:39
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wzm posted:I'm doing this right now on an ND! Anyone have tips on the best places to get the mandatory windshield garnishes? My local dealers all tell me to just have Safelite do everything, and that they don't carry garnishes as replacement parts, because they are not necessary. Safelite tried to do the job twice, then told me that I need garnishes before they will try it again, but that I need to buy garnishes for them in advance. What's a good online resource for Mazda parts these days? Why is this such a pain in the rear end? You can buy the parts online at Priority Mazda. The top piece seems be called "Upper Molding" and the A-pillar pieces are called "Garnish". They're like 100 bucks for each piece, surprisingly pricey.
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Apr 30, 2021 23:50
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Thanks! Most of the online parts shops had those at $150-200 each, so that's a great resource. I might get a windshield from them too, locally it's $800, but they sell them for $400, and are within driving distance of me. $1300 in parts for a windshield replacement wasn't feeling right, but $750 or so does.
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May 1, 2021 02:47
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 Oh that's a nice looking NA I wonder what they've done to the engine...  
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May 3, 2021 02:43
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