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cantfly posted:Anyone know what hardtops are going for these days? I've got some bills to pay and would like to fix the soft top so I'm gonna list this thing for sale. It's smurf blue, no defrost, good condition with a few scratches. In the PNW, $1800-2200 mint. $1200 for a "ok" on. $800 needing repair/terrible paint/cracks. $400 - stolen.
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Apr 11, 2022 23:32
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Voltage posted:Very nice! What year? Any mods or is it stock? It's a '92 model year, and, TIL from Miata.net that '92 Sunburst Yellows were only available with the "A" package. Meaning no power anything (except power steering and brakes). Not sure if it has the VLSD or not. Kinda want to call up Mazda customer support at some point and find out. Maybe when I'm not swamped with work and life in general. Hikaki posted:They only made yellow NA's in 1992. I really wish they kept making them! Mazda's paint color game has always been on point! They just need to make the awesome colors available for more than one model year.
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Apr 12, 2022 02:59
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Man that hoist photo is terrifying. I also just recently pulled my engine.  Rust repair soon (a shop is doing that), and then the engine goes back in sporting a bit o boost.
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Apr 12, 2022 03:29
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I bought some floor to sill panels for mine last week. Looking to hack out as much rust as possible and fire in all shiny newness. This car is going to end up about 30% new metal at this rate  this does mean it should last another 25 years though so it's worth it.
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Apr 12, 2022 10:25
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Hail yesterday. I think this car may be cursed.
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Apr 12, 2022 16:25
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Our Miata is completely stock and rarely gets driven anymore, but took it out to try and get some year old gas out of the tank for the first time this year. I should be driving this more, it's still fun. 
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Apr 12, 2022 16:55
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the spyder posted:In the PNW, $1800-2200 mint. $1200 for a "ok" on. $800 needing repair/terrible paint/cracks. $400 - stolen. Thanks for the info! I'm in Utah, gonna list it for 2k and see what happens.
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Apr 14, 2022 14:02
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cantfly posted:Thanks for the info! I'm in Utah, gonna list it for 2k and see what happens. Welp, should have listed it for more, being bombarded with messages. Looks like it might be gone today unless everyone is a flake which is honestly a high probability with FB market place lol.
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Apr 14, 2022 17:12
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I sold my HT of 10 years at the start of the pandemic for $1200 to fund the purchase of an XJ Cherokee project - at least it went to a father son combo looking to bond after the dad beat cancer. Still stings though. Since I am now doing more hpde than autox, I decided the only way to right the ship was to mount a fiberglass top from Rendaros Racing that I am doing all the paint and fab on. I actually have 2 of these, if anyone in the mid-atlantic is in the market.
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Apr 15, 2022 14:54
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Would have had the engine on the stand today, except none of the bellhousing bolts are long enough for my stand. Oh well, hardware store is open tomorrow. In other news, I'm pretty sure this is the factory clutch after 220k km's, if it's been replaced I've put a bit over 100k km on it. Looks fine, but won't hold enough for the turbo, so it's getting replaced. 
TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Apr 16, 2022 |
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Apr 16, 2022 01:29
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Hardtop is gone! Final tally was 18 people contacted me about it 3 of which said they had cash and wanted to grab it immediately no questions asked. Lesson here is if any one has one they are thinking of selling list it for something like $2,500 lol. Now I have to get a soft top. Was looking at the $215 "easy install" one here https://www.convertibletopguys.com/convertible/1444/1989-97-Mazda-Miata any reason to avoid it?
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Apr 16, 2022 01:37
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I put an aftermarket soft top on my old NA a few years ago. Got it from mx5parts.co.uk (no idea what brand it was), but it was similarly priced. Haven't looked too closely at that many OEM tops, but this one seemed to be of similar quality and worked just fine (and still looks good a few years later, now in the possession of a friend). Only real difference was it didn't have the zipper for the rear window, but I found that to be a fiddly mess anyway. If you don't have a roll bar you can even get one with a glass rear window (which I find rather nice on my NB, as it changes rear visibility from rather bad to almost adequate). Installation was a bit fiddly, but reasonably straightforward (and plenty of decent guides on youtube). I also changed from the stock tan soft top to a black one, tan just looked totally out of place on a dark blue car with black interior.
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Apr 16, 2022 09:06
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When I replaced the top on my NC I didn't replace the disintegrating foam on the springs and now they rattle like crazy when driving. So I'll be spending tomorrow pulling the top back and wrapping those springs. It drives me NUTS.
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Apr 16, 2022 16:13
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Hikaki posted:Yeah I read the same thing, but some others pointed out the slack that causes the poor contact should be due to poor pressure from the slave cylinder. Better to tackle the root cause if I can, I think. I just want to follow up on this post. I was planning on greasing up the fork but never got around to it. Before that, I bled the clutch and immediately did a test drive where I still heard the sound. However, ever since then I haven't heard it so problem solved??? I guess the clutch line need some time/usage to build up pressure or something, I don't really understand. I'm just happy I don't need to spend money on a clutch job or mess with it anymore.
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Apr 23, 2022 08:10
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Is it normal to get some burning clutch smell after installing a new clutch? I had a shop put one in a few hundred miles ago, and I can still smell it when I get home. I don't think it's anything I'm doing, since I never had this problem before the new clutch.
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Apr 23, 2022 18:54
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Does the RPM dip when you hold the clutch in at a stop and put it into first? It is probably not fully engaging / disengaging
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Apr 23, 2022 20:58
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I had a new clutch that smelled for a while and even smoked for a shorter while. It went away after not too long, although in those days I was doing 500 miles a week. You may also be slipping it more than you normally do because the engagement point has probably changed.
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Apr 23, 2022 21:39
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At a stop, with the clutch down, I can go from neutral to first without any drop in revs. Makes me feel better. Probably just needs more time to wear in. I put half a tank of gas in it today and Fuelly told me my last fill-up was in January. Thanks all.
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Apr 24, 2022 00:26
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About to install a new top in about an hour! Removed old one last year and all the parts are in an unmarked pile! Wish me some loving luck!!! 
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Apr 30, 2022 22:08
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cantfly posted:About to install a new top in about an hour! Removed old one last year and all the parts are in an unmarked pile! Wish me some loving luck!!! I appreciate you setting the difficulty to insane.
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Apr 30, 2022 22:29
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Elephanthead posted:I appreciate you setting the difficulty to insane. That was fun. Managed to figure out where everything goes, get the top on the frame, get it installed in the car, and did the 13 lovely nuts that you have to ball yourself up in the car to get to (my dumbass left the seats in lol). OK! time to put the few trim bits back in and wait what are these behind the car?   My power ratchet was at home and no loving way was I taking all those nuts off and putting them back on without it so I called it for the day and went back today to button it up. Its sitting in my garage now with a 45lb plate on it to stretch it out cause the fucker won't close. Will post a pic of this shitbox with its new roof once I can get it to latch.
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May 2, 2022 06:38
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Taking my lovely top out was bad enough getting to those bits. Luckily I'm not a large fella (just tall), it was doubly frustrating because the top doesn't stay up die to it shrinking from lack of use. In other smol Mazda news I've started on the floor to sill removal/replacement. I now know why these cars rot as badly as they do, they're assembled entirely out of spot welds and there's places the car's 4 layers thick of thin steel. Water gets in there due to poo poo underseal (likely) then you're going to have a bad time.
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May 2, 2022 19:24
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I have a 2002 NB with what I think is the factory wind blocker that folds up behind the seats, and after a mere 20 years it is losing its grip on reality and won't stay put. It falls back when I accelerate (unless I do it much slower than is appropriate in a Miata), and when I hit about 80km/h the wind pops it back up again. Could be seen as a nifty automatic feature, but I find it a bit annoying. It's currently being propped up by a piece of foam pipe insulation I found on the garage floor. I haven't taken it apart just yet, but it looks like it's some kind of plastic bushing that no longer provides the friction it used to, and nothing I can tighten. Is there a known good fix to this? I could try just adding a layer of electrical tape to try to tighten it up, or even make a new bushing from some plastic, but I might as well go with what is known to work rather than flailing around with random poo poo.
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May 5, 2022 12:38
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 Well, I'm happy to prove myself wrong. Under that little cap (which can only be removed once off the car), there was a nylock hex nut which squeezes a pair of plastic washers onto the bracket. Tightening those makes it all frictiony and grabby again, so all good. It does make sense that those nuts, even if they're somewhat locking, would like to loosen themselves when the wind blocker is moved. If it keeps happening I can change them out to fresh ones, apply threadlocker, or just leave the caps off for easy in-car adjustment (probably in that order). Oddly enough, it is a nut with a 13mm head. Everything else on this car is 12mm for an M8 bolt/nut, so maybe this thing isn't original Mazda stuff as I had thought. Have seen a few NB's here with the exact same one, but who knows. Any replacement nut I'd find at a hardware store would be 13mm though, so the little plastic hat would still fit. It does mean I need to include a 13mm wrench in the "roadtrip toolkit" though. It already has 15mm, since those were the M10 nuts on the sway bar links I changed out a while back.
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May 6, 2022 09:33
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Calling on this at 9:01 AM tomorrow. https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/arvada-2005-mazda-mazdaspeed-mx-grand/7480552555.html Any thoughts? I'm nervous about the '5 speed swap' and want to ask about that. Why would somebody do that? didn't these come with a 6? or was this an automatic? Rest of the thing looks clean and shiny. e: 100% pleasure purchase, i don't really ever have to drive and when i do have to, i got my Expedition. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 05:07 on May 9, 2022 |
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May 9, 2022 05:04
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Mazdaspeeds all had a different 6 speed (like the gears were hardened more better?) and a 4.1 (instead of a 4.3, also apparently beefier?) I’d walk the at the first thing not passing the sniff test on that thing tbh. I say this as someone who’s mom just asked if I’d be willing to do ~10 years worth of deferred maintenance on their 2004 MSM with no miles that has an oil leak of some sort.
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May 9, 2022 05:13
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Yeah, it's got modest ModZzZz so i'm going to look very very closely to try to find any evidence of a Golden Screwdriver being applied. if it drives nice, thinking about furrowing my brow about the transmission swap and topping out at 12,5-12,8 cash. Any shortlist of things that commonly go fucky?
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May 9, 2022 05:15
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The 6 speed can handle more torque, doesn't shift as smooth as the 5 speed though.
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May 9, 2022 05:40
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Hmm, noticed the ABS light on and the engine appears to be at operating temp in that one pic so it probably wasn't just-started-up. I'm kind of cooling on this one; the color's gorgeous but i have Some Questions now. Will go in level-headed and since it's strictly a toy idea, i'm totally fine with walking. Feeling this is more of an 11-11.5 thing, i'll be more solid on my offer range after I get answers for that and the gearbox swap.
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May 9, 2022 07:24
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It does seem priced cheap esp from a shop But it's also cool as hell
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May 9, 2022 07:28
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quote:~RARE SPEED MODEL 18 litre engine I'd expect it to be the speed model
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May 9, 2022 13:54
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A used 6spd is worth like $800-1000 right now, not that you're going to approach the torque limits of one with a stock MSM turbo. The stock MSM one in my old car had between 250-275 wheel torque pushed through the thing for four years and was fine, though I did keep a spare since that was more or less the ragged edge. The MSM rear diff uses different axles (the inner buckets are painted green, to check and make sure it is still there) that are harder to find and much more expensive. You can pull the ABS codes with a paperclip to the right two pins on the OBD port, but they are pretty simple systems so it'd either be the unit itself or one of the sensors.
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May 9, 2022 18:03
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Who were Miatas made for seriously? I'm 5'9" and I found out this weekend that if I take out the seat completely and sit against the rear bulk head I would JUST pass the broomstick test. This is sitting directly on the floor of the car. Too bad my legs can't reach. In my ongoing project to address the ergos in my NB I've installed an Nardi 330mm Deep Corn wheel with all the requisite NRG quick release stuff. Now that the wheel is in the car I realize that a non dished wheel would have been fine. The rainbow titanium screws from NRG are a must though. I've also removed the rear humps the factory seat bolts to following this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u13sHzwJXsA Did a test fit last night and it has made some difference. I need to hammer in the seat pan and weld in my anchors under the car. These are working out nicely for anchors: https://www.seatbeltstore.com/product-p/ju010600.htm
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May 9, 2022 20:45
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I'm 5'8" and my head bounced off the cage with a bucket seat mounted touching the floor and the rear seat humps cut out. I couldn't do a floor cut because of points. Big part of why I said gently caress it and sold it
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May 9, 2022 20:48
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BlackMK4 posted:I'm 5'8" and my head bounced off the cage with a bucket seat mounted touching the floor and the rear seat humps cut out. I couldn't do a floor cut because of points. I think the NC's are a little better. I would go for a red prht club spec if one came up and try those reverse z brackets and other tricks. This change was low investment to try out. The plan is to eventually scrap this body and go exocet one day but for now I'm enjoying the Miat. What did you go to from a Miata? I think 86's twins would be next on my list from Miata.
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May 9, 2022 20:54
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Coredump posted:Who were Miatas made for seriously? I'm 5'9" and I found out this weekend that if I take out the seat completely and sit against the rear bulk head I would JUST pass the broomstick test. Am 6' and pass a broomstick test with a sprint-v bucket + PCI seat bracket. The wheel + QR gives me lots of room for my knees as well, guess I'm just lucky. 
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May 9, 2022 21:32
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Coredump posted:I think the NC's are a little better. I would go for a red prht club spec if one came up and try those reverse z brackets and other tricks. This change was low investment to try out. The plan is to eventually scrap this body and go exocet one day but for now I'm enjoying the Miat. What did you go to from a Miata? I think 86's twins would be next on my list from Miata. I went to a BRZ  A lot more cabin room, that's for sure. Tradeoff is weight and everything that brings.
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May 9, 2022 21:35
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I fit fine in my NA, I'm 5' 9" with proportionally short legs. I use the extra room I get behind the seat to recline it to put my torso at an angle so I'm not stuffed into the roof. Also note the Miata was designed in Japan where the average height is 5' 7" and 5' 1" for men and women respectively.
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May 9, 2022 22:04
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For what it's worth I'm 5'10" and pass broomstick test with a harddog & sparco seat in an ND
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May 9, 2022 22:34
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Ngl as a 5’4” woman I feel pretty vindicated about being able to fit perfectly in my ND after being told for years that I “just need to get over it  ” by motodudes when I would say that there are many bikes that I will never feel comfortable riding due to their seat height/weight distribution/overall short person-unfriendly geometrythis isn’t meant to be a dig at anyone in this thread
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May 9, 2022 23:30
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