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Ok, replaced both motor mounts on the MSM and still have issues, there's a driveline 'wiggle' when shifting, I guess maybe a transmission mount or something needs to be replaced? How many transmission mounts do these cars have and how hard are they to replace?
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Dec 15, 2010 16:18
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0, so no. The trans only attaches to the engine and the PPF.
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Dec 15, 2010 17:44
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FatCow posted:0, so no. Thats what I thought, but I wasn't sure if it was different on the MSM or something. It might be slack in your differential or driveshaft revmoo.
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Dec 15, 2010 17:51
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My new Miata (it's cute) Just picked this up and drove it home. It's a 2004 MSM with 14,500 miles (about 15,300 now due to drive home ) but it's basically cherry, minus the a little issue, which I will discuss here in a minute.. Anyways, for the specs: 2004 MSM - Turbo Timer - FM Blow off valve - FM Intake - Hard Dog Roll Bar (SCCA Approved!) - Not sure on the shocks and springs, but the car has almost no body roll (after about 500 miles I was starting to not enjoy that feature so much.. but for shorter rides it'll blast) - Boost controller (currently around 8PSI) - Various other goodies (look at engine picture, #4 (Miataefull.jpg), let me know if you spot anything else that's not stock on an MSM because god knows I can fix computers, but cars I'm rough on) - Boost gauge Photos (High Res): http://www.nerocom.us/temp/car/miata1.jpg http://www.nerocom.us/temp/car/miata2.jpg http://www.nerocom.us/temp/car/miata3.jpg http://www.nerocom.us/temp/car/miataefull.jpg http://www.nerocom.us/temp/car/miata5.jpg
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Dec 15, 2010 18:47
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EDIT: ^^ what an ugly car :p Brain Issues posted:Thats what I thought, but I wasn't sure if it was different on the MSM or something. It might be slack in your differential or driveshaft revmoo. Diff bushings? Is there a driveshaft 'guibo' on these cars?
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Dec 15, 2010 19:21
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revmoo posted:EDIT: ^^ what an ugly car :p I know. Why do people buy these nasty things?
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Dec 15, 2010 21:48
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Packet Loss posted:Photos (High Res): Do you live in Sedona or did you just pick the car up there? Either way I'm jealous, I haven't done a drive up 89A in way too long and that drive is a loving riot even in my '99, let alone something with a snail to keep it breathing at that altitude.
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Dec 15, 2010 22:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do you live in Sedona or did you just pick the car up there? Either way I'm jealous, I haven't done a drive up 89A in way too long and that drive is a loving riot even in my '99, let alone something with a snail to keep it breathing at that altitude.  I live in Colorado actually, but 89A was my drive out to the freeway. It was.. mildy fun, I didn't know the road and the tires are totally shot (I can break free so easily it's almost scary - they are hard). Anyways, it was VERY pretty and honestly I would love to do it again!
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Dec 16, 2010 00:02
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I couldn't find a good solid answer anywhere, so I'll ask you guys. My 2007 NC has 205/45/17 tires, would it be possible to put 225/40/17 tires on it? According to the miata.net calculator, it should not affect the speedo/gearing significantly. Will it fit on the rim? Are there any downsides to having a bigger size/smaller profile tire? Also, what tire would you guys recommend? It rarely snows, but rains a lot! (It's Washington.) I'm thinking of the Potenza RE-11, Potenza RE050A, Yokohama Neova AD08, or Continental ContiSportContact 3. Price is not an issue, but being able to survive rain is. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html http://tinyurl.com/22u7ekg (tirerack.com for my car!)
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Dec 16, 2010 00:27
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revmoo posted:Diff bushings? Is there a driveshaft 'guibo' on these cars? There is no guibo on the miata. The driveshaft ujoint (mazda calls it propeller shaft and calls the cv axles the driveshafts) has a flange on it that bolts directly to the differential companion flange. Could be diff bushings maybe? I don't know what the wiggle that you're experiencing is like.
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Dec 17, 2010 02:18
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Packet Loss posted:My new Miata (it's cute) Turbo timers remove just about all immobilisation/security features available in a modern car, making your miata a top-slash and break steering lock away from stolen. Do you have any engine management changes to use that boost controller? Usually there's a bit of leeway with stock engine control that you can get a bit more from them, but its not a smart nor safe way to go. edit: Its a complex question, but do B6 have an tapped and plugged oil turbo feeds on the block near where the exhaust flange is? I'm replacing my damaged GTX engine with a 90 Miata B6 and don't know how much work I have to do to make it work. I suppose I could just get a 'turbo oil feed kit' from eBay and use it with my stock turbo. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Dec 17, 2010 |
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Dec 17, 2010 02:41
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I thought modern turbos don't even need timers anymore. Just don't put it away red hot.
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Dec 17, 2010 03:01
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Can you guys help me diagnose a clutch issue? Recently I noticed whenever I'm doing my usual three pedal dance, the car is jerking a bit/i'm having to give it a little more gas than normal to take off in first. This is the clutch slipping right? When I do the 45 mile an hour clutch test, the rpm needle moves back pretty quick. The car has 113k miles on it and I'm not sure if the clutch has been changed ever. Or could it be the clutch slave cylinder leaking? I haven't taken the wheel off yet to check, it's been so loving cold. Edit: typos Russian Bear fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Dec 17, 2010 |
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Dec 17, 2010 03:07
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35mph clutch dump test? What? Go 25mph and put it in 5th and floor it.
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Dec 17, 2010 03:33
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Phone posted:Go 25mph and put it in 5th and floor it. I never got this test. At 25mph in 5th the engine makes no loving torque at all. Put it in 3rd at 65 and floor it. Assuming 3rd can do 65.
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Dec 17, 2010 03:51
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On the other hand he could just be down on power/misfiring/etc for a host of reasons. Spark plugs/wires/air filter lately?
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Dec 17, 2010 04:10
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Ooops i typoed and didn't really explain it well. I meant this from the miata.net garage section: At 45 MPH in 5th gear, disengage clutch. Rev engine 2k above what it was doing and pop the clutch. If engine immediately drops back to original RPM area, the clutch is OK. I'm gonna do the plugs/wires/filter next week. Wait, so if at 25mph in 5th it stalls then the clutch is gone? My fuel economy lately has dropped by 2-3mpg as well, but I chalked it up to winter mix gasoline.
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Dec 17, 2010 04:32
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The idea behind the 5th in 25mph test is that if you floor it and the clutch is bad, the engine RPMs will rise dramatically.
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Dec 17, 2010 04:38
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Dramatically by how much? Like a quick small(500rpm) jump or way higher?
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Dec 17, 2010 04:48
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Its going to depend on how bad the clutch is but generally speaking anything other than the engine bogging down when you push on the gas pedal is pointing towards your clutch being dead. If it goes up 500 RPM and back down again it either means the clutch is just starting its death spiral or you're leaking brake fluid into the bellhousing. For reference, when I had to replace the clutch in my Focus I'd drop into 5th at 30 MPH and mash the gas and it might as well have been in neutral. Geoj fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Dec 17, 2010 |
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Dec 17, 2010 05:08
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Thanks guys, I'll check it out tomorrow.
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Dec 17, 2010 06:31
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Phone posted:The idea behind the 5th in 25mph test is that if you floor it and the clutch is bad, the engine RPMs will rise dramatically. No. Bad test. The engine is at to low an RPM to generate enough torque to test if the clutch can handle the peak output of the engine. In order to test a clutch properly you need to have the engine sweeping past peak torque at WOT in the highest gear you can manage legally. If it slips at all (RPMs jump speed doesn't) during a 4th gear WOT pull into the highway then it will need replacing.
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Dec 17, 2010 18:05
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Just want to make sure I'm doing this right before I spend money. My dumb Miata has been making the wheel bearing noise, and it goes away when I turn right and louder when I turn left. That means I need the right side bearing, right? Also, while I'm doing this, I'm going to replace my brakes, too. I know some of the higher performance pads have to heat up a bit before they really start to work well, and it gets awfully cold here in Minnesota. Would the Hawk HP+ work well here, or should I go with something a little less aggressive?
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Dec 17, 2010 18:49
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HP+s dust like you wouldn't believe. I think they have a HPS pad that is performance oriented but doesn't dust so bad.
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Dec 17, 2010 18:52
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FatCow posted:HP+s dust like you wouldn't believe. I think they have a HPS pad that is performance oriented but doesn't dust so bad. I have HPS on my '92 (with '94+ caliper brackets) and they work great. HP+ seems a bit overkill for street driving.
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Dec 17, 2010 19:48
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dur posted:Just want to make sure I'm doing this right before I spend money. My dumb Miata has been making the wheel bearing noise, and it goes away when I turn right and louder when I turn left. That means I need the right side bearing, right? I would go ahead and replace both bearings, but yes it's your right bearing.
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Dec 17, 2010 20:22
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n8r posted:I would go ahead and replace both bearings, but yes it's your right bearing. Or his lugs are loose. Don't ask me how I know. 
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Dec 17, 2010 22:59
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225/45/15 RS3s are on sale from Tirerack right now for $106. Pricematch to Discount Tire and the total installed is $540. loving awesome.
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Dec 17, 2010 23:31
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Ziploc posted:Or his lugs are loose.
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Dec 18, 2010 01:53
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My 2007 NC has 205/45/17 tires, would it be possible to put 225/40/17 tires on it? According to the miata.net calculator, it should not affect the speedo/gearing significantly. Will it fit on the rim? Are there any downsides to having a bigger size/smaller profile tire? Also, what tire would you guys recommend? It rarely snows, but rains a lot! (It's Washington.) I'm thinking of the Potenza RE-11, Potenza RE050A, Yokohama Neova AD08, or Continental ContiSportContact 3.
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Dec 18, 2010 02:30
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I can only speak to the 050As, but while they aren't a bad tire, they are an older design that has been eclipsed by almost everything on the market - and they're super pricey to boot.
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Dec 18, 2010 04:32
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dur posted:Haha, no, it's not that. This noise has been going on for like a year and with three different sets of tires, so I think tires and lug nuts can be safely ruled out. ouch, hope you have an easier time getting the halfshaft out of the hub than I did...mine was baked in solid, and like an idiot i managed to hammer the nut i put on it (to protect the threads) flush with the hub, making it useless. I ended up having to press it out, YMMV.
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Dec 18, 2010 13:55
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Ziploc posted:No. Bad test. The engine is at to low an RPM to generate enough torque to test if the clutch can handle the peak output of the engine. Ever had a slipping clutch? When mine was toast on my old car it slipped much easier/sooner in higher gears. Likely due to the higher load even if it was at lower rpm. I could only get to about 3rd gear before I had to baby it on the highway. This is the only test I've ever seen for a slipping clutch also btw. Just put it in the highest gear at about 1k rpm or so and mash it. If the rpm's rise like crazy and you're not going anywhere, it's slipping.
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Dec 18, 2010 23:35
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Sold the little NA. Will be sad to see it go.
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Dec 19, 2010 00:47
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Phone posted:The idea behind the 5th in 25mph test is that if you floor it and the clutch is bad, the engine RPMs will rise dramatically. Beaten, but this only works in cars with torque. If you were testing a V8 Mustang's clutch, this would work. When you're testing a car that's probably not making any more than 50 lb/ft at that RPM, it's not going to slip unless the clutch is completely and absolutely toasted anyway.
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Dec 19, 2010 02:04
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Does anyone know which years/packages have no arm rests and just the leather pull strap on the doors?
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Dec 21, 2010 20:09
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Blaise posted:I have HPS on my '92 (with '94+ caliper brackets) and they work great. HP+ seems a bit overkill for street driving. I really love my Ferodo DS2500 road/race pads Great on the street, barely any warm up and handle track days awesome too
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Dec 21, 2010 21:33
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FatCow posted:Does anyone know which years/packages have no arm rests and just the leather pull strap on the doors?
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Dec 22, 2010 00:56
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 Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image. It got taken from outside the house a few months ago, on a really wet night before the UK's snowfall. It was found in a council estate in town with the radio missing. It's still got most of the petrol I had in it, so I think it only got taken as transport on a crap night. Radio's gone, centre console's bust up, ignition's hosed up, wires everywhere, roof's slashed and it's sat outside in an assessor's yard for a month whilst it has snowed. Despite being fully comprehensive, the insurance company are playing hide-and-seek with me. Aaaargh.
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Dec 22, 2010 01:01
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destructo posted:IIRC Only special Japanese packages like the M1 or M2 had these. Best bet is to make your own or repurpose them from another car. It looks like what I'm thinking of wasn't actually OEM. Closest OEM that I can find is like: http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/windows/images/Image01.jpg It needs to be OEM from a NA Miata for it to work for me.
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Dec 22, 2010 02:47
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