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1.6 NA: Missing, hesitation and running rough out of the blue. Isn't this typically a bad or dying wire harness? I know there's a way to get a code jumping some pins but this just started last night. e: spark plug wires.... 2nd edit: Replaced spark plug wires with NGK blues, runs like new. Sten Freak fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Mar 22, 2011 |
# ? Mar 22, 2011 14:13 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 23:34 |
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crutt posted:
Judging by the Tolltag, you're also in Dallas? Looks like you don't have PM's so could I have a way to contact you so I can come check it out in person?
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# ? Mar 23, 2011 04:54 |
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televiper posted:My neighbor tried to use my other space to make a 3-point turn and failed at it. He didn't tell me about it until the next day after I'd gone out driving, but at least he told me. $570 - $700 Took it for state safety inspection and they failed it because of this. I've been considering putting on a set of all-seasons, so this seems like a good time. I'm not looking to spend a boat-load, so top contenders are the Continental ExtremeContact DWS and the Maxxis Victra. Anyone care to sound off on either or suggest another option? (Michelin Pilots are out: too pricey) televiper fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Mar 24, 2011 |
# ? Mar 24, 2011 03:48 |
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Falken Ziex are usually recommended, so check those out as well.
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# ? Mar 24, 2011 04:12 |
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Russian Bear posted:Falken Ziex are usually recommended, so check those out as well. They have pretty soft sidewalls and are in no way snow friendly. A good, comfy, quiet street tire if that's what your after.
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# ? Mar 24, 2011 04:26 |
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televiper posted:I'm not looking to spend a boat-load, so top contenders are the Continental ExtremeContact DWS and the Maxxis Victra. I have the Continentals (but not on a Miata). They are a pretty decent fair weather tire, but don't even think of going anywhere in the snow. I got stuck during a dusting of snow in a parking lot that I previously believed to be flat. They do better than summers in cold weather and are far more quiet than any summers I've ever owned.
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# ? Mar 24, 2011 06:16 |
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Ziploc posted:They have pretty soft sidewalls and are in no way snow friendly. A good, comfy, quiet street tire if that's what your after. While it is true that they have a rather soft sidewall, they ride great and in the last big snow storm we had in oklahoma I drove to work through it with a set, on the first day of it I passed a stuck Grand Cherokee(2wd) and a stuck F-150(4wd, empty bed). In fact, the only place I did get stuck was my own driveway, which I could only make it halfway up.
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# ? Mar 24, 2011 18:55 |
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I'm pretty sure those tires are on our Forester. We went out the night of the 30" snow storm in Jersey and the next day as well. The car drove awesome in the snow.
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# ? Mar 24, 2011 19:28 |
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Got a new fun problem today. Feels like the rear end is locking up or something. At low speeds turning it feels like a welded diff, hopping and skipping around. While trying to turn at like a light at 5-10mph, it sounds like a midget is banging on something with a giant sledgehammer and the car bucks. It kinda feels like if you hit a giant pothole. At higher speeds it will randomly bang and feel like a pothole. Not going to drive the car anymore until I figure it out/fix it, I thought no way I was getting home.
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# ? Mar 24, 2011 21:34 |
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streetlamp posted:Got a new fun problem today. Feels like the rear end is locking up or something. At low speeds turning it feels like a welded diff, hopping and skipping around. While trying to turn at like a light at 5-10mph, it sounds like a midget is banging on something with a giant sledgehammer and the car bucks. It kinda feels like if you hit a giant pothole. At higher speeds it will randomly bang and feel like a pothole. Not going to drive the car anymore until I figure it out/fix it, I thought no way I was getting home. Open diff or viscous? Something came loose.
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# ? Mar 24, 2011 22:12 |
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Been a while since I last posted here.. Here's a shot of my car after I got it home. It's parked alongside my old Fiat Punto, which sucked a lot but did a good job getting me 5 years no claims bonus for my insurance. Winter was interesting in the MX-5... Clearly my tyres suck for compact slippery snow as I managed to get stuck about 30 seconds down the road from my house. You can just about see in the photo where I was at an angle in the road and had to dig/scrape with a shovel for traction. Back end just would not go straight, tried the handbrake trick and everything.. Whoops. It's been getting warmer and much more spring-like here in the UK. Have been enjoying some sunny, pleasant afternoons around town with the soft top down. LOVE IT. Can't wait for summer Oh and sup team hardtop Are there any other Radiant Ebony owners out there? We seem to be a rare breed...
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# ? Mar 24, 2011 22:43 |
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Beach Bum posted:Open diff or viscous? Something came loose. I assume its open, its a 91 seems to be a base model. PO said the diff was replaced at one time and also assumed it was open still. e: what should I look for that came loose? I think I am going to get my brother to bring me his truck tomorrow and trailer it to his house since I have no method of working on it at my apartment. I would need to fix it saturday night/sunday or leave it for a few more weeks until I can get back to it. streetlamp fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Mar 24, 2011 |
# ? Mar 24, 2011 22:47 |
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streetlamp posted:I assume its open, its a 91 seems to be a base model. PO said the diff was replaced at one time and also assumed it was open still. From what I've read, the 1.6l rear end is a known quantity of suck. My bet is that it grenaded. Start looking around for a 1.8 diff upgrade.
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# ? Mar 25, 2011 04:20 |
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I saw a post on m.net earlier that described it perfectly. something like 'a occasional clunk that got progressively worst until it was like you were constantly going over speed bumps'. gonna try and find any diff at the yard on saturday and swap it then look into a 1.8 upgrade when I find one
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# ? Mar 25, 2011 05:57 |
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Bunch of miatas on speedhunters once again. This is the most girls I've seen at a car meet that wasn't inside a fast and furious movie.
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# ? Mar 25, 2011 06:36 |
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Piano posted:Bunch of miatas on speedhunters once again. Not nearly enough boost in those photos
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# ? Mar 26, 2011 07:47 |
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Drained my diff today, it looked like a bass boat metallic gray color and the plug had about a 1/4" of metal shavings/chunks on it. Think Im gonna get a 1.8 swap get from planet-miata for $650 unless I stumble upon one in the junkyard. Anyone happen to know a better price online though?
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# ? Mar 27, 2011 05:20 |
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Not really. I think that the second hand torsen market is about 800 dollars minimum for all of the associated hardware. If you're there, you might want to get the Energy Bushing diff bushings and swap out to 1.8L rear brakes.
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# ? Mar 27, 2011 05:25 |
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Can also look for rx-7 diffs, I think all the FC diffs work with some very minor modifications. And they're stronger? You're in Richmond, right? There used to be a FC at that woodfin's junkyard next to 288 and rt. 360, it was there last summer, no idea if it's still there. Have never ever seen a miata in a junkyard... why?
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# ? Mar 27, 2011 05:28 |
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I'll check out woodfins, though I trailered the car to fredericksburg to work on it. I was also looking at a bushing kit cos poo poo looked hosed up pretty good in that department also. Having never really looked for a miata at a junkyard, I have also never seen one. e: Also LOL at the idea of buying a miata with a DIY turbo kit for $2500 and expecting my financial obligations to end there
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# ? Mar 27, 2011 05:32 |
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I'm changing all my interior lighting over to amber. destructo fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Mar 29, 2011 |
# ? Mar 29, 2011 05:30 |
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What are some popular wheel and tire options? Looking for a decent summer set. Preferred budget is $600-$800.
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# ? Apr 1, 2011 19:41 |
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First Time Caller posted:What are some popular wheel and tire options? Looking for a decent summer set. Preferred budget is $600-$800. I don't know about "popular" but I'm quite happy with these Sport Edition CEs. Don't know if they'll fit on your car though. Pictured is my '01 LS with sport package.
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# ? Apr 1, 2011 20:58 |
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First Time Caller posted:What are some popular wheel and tire options? Looking for a decent summer set. Preferred budget is $600-$800.
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# ? Apr 1, 2011 23:13 |
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What are thoughts on this car regarding the price? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/2261562601.html It looks nice in photos and he seems pretty meticulous. Suspension stuff: FatCat Motorsports 2.5” coilovers 300# front and 220# rear FatCat Motorsports custom revalved Bilsteins FatCatMotorsports MCU shock mounts, 46mm F and 36mm R MCU bumpstops FatCatMotorsports NB Tophats Slotted rotors with Axxis Ultimate pads Adjustable brake proportioning valve Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines ATE Super Blue brake fluid H&N front sway bar with adjustable end links Front frame brace, shock tower brace, Master cylinder brace Panasport 15 X 7 wheels Nearly new Dunlop 195.55.15 Star Spec tires Limited slip 4.38 rearend, synthetic lube it's entire life Butterfly Brace from Flyin Miata Updated camber bolts and recent performance alignment High Performance Steering Rack Bushings $7500 still seems a bit high for a '90 though.
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# ? Apr 1, 2011 23:40 |
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I bought my '00 for $7500. Supercharged, full Flyin' Miata suspension, 2.5" exhaust, roll bar, wheels and tires. 45,000 miles.
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# ? Apr 2, 2011 00:49 |
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Some of the mods on this one are questionable, but I would have a hard time paying nearly twice as much for the supercharged '90 instead of this turbocharged '90. Aren't you in socal, though? Gotta imagine there's more than two forced-induction Miatas closer than AZ.
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# ? Apr 2, 2011 06:23 |
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Paying extra for a supercharged car can be kinda silly depending on what you're actually getting for the price. The typical jackson racing kit is as close to truly "bolt on" as anything I've seen in the world of forced induction. It's pretty simple. Nevermind if it's some other kit, but the standard m45 one installed shouldn't really be valued at any more than its actual cost ($2k, iirc?) unlike a turbo car where pretty much any application takes a noticeable amount of... being really mad during the install, which is worth paying for!
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# ? Apr 2, 2011 07:02 |
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destructo posted:How wide are you looking to go? With what intent? Most anything decent or wide will set you back around $900 for everything. Having fun on mountain roads with some light autocrossing I suppose. Wouldn't want to go wider than 225 but don't mind 205 if it's cheaper. I could manage $900 probably. I have the OEM '99 sport alloy wheels with Toyo Proxes4 all seasons on right now. I was looking at something like: TRMotorsport C1 Light Grey Painted Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec Blackwall Cheap wheel I guess and made in China so idk. First Time Caller fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Apr 2, 2011 |
# ? Apr 2, 2011 12:44 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Some of the mods on this one are questionable, but I would have a hard time paying nearly twice as much for the supercharged '90 instead of this turbocharged '90. Boston, we don't have many FI ones (maybe in NH) and the ones we do have are expensive.
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# ? Apr 2, 2011 17:31 |
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Get the 7.5" wheel. Wider is pretty much always faster.
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# ? Apr 2, 2011 19:22 |
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Enhh, on a budget won't really matter because proper tires for 7.5 are a rare size and you'll pay a premium, and you can run 195 (cheap as hell) or 205(only a little more expensive) on either a 7 or 7.5 no problem. The contact patch will be almost exactly the same, I assume, so it's pretty irrelevant. Tires are 'spensive past 205 in 15's, except 225 is kinda cheap/available, but that's best for like 8" or 9", I think? 225 on a 7.5 would probably look weird, but might be perfectly functional? I'm not sure. Overall, though, you'll be paying something like $400+/set when you go past 205 instead of like 300 shipped.
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# ? Apr 2, 2011 20:56 |
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Quick question I figure you guys could answer, are 6ULs made specially for Miatas or do they make the 15x7 in something other than a +36mm offset?
MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Apr 2, 2011 |
# ? Apr 2, 2011 21:56 |
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They're designed around the miata, yeah. Not many other track friendly 4x100 cars out there besides like the CRX, e30s, mr2s, ae86... only ones I can think of.
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# ? Apr 2, 2011 22:20 |
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Great ride over the mountains and back.
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# ? Apr 3, 2011 03:46 |
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I guess my SA membership and AI lurking has had more of an influence on me than I previously thought... Last week I picked up my first Miata It's a 95 that I managed to grab for $1k off of CL... it's got a few issues, such as needing a new rear window, steering wheel, and window switch, and it's absurdly dirty, but mechanically it's pretty good and has been reasonably well maintained. It was originally Montego Blue (M8), but at some point was resprayed to British Racing Green. Owning one I now understand why so many people love Miatas... It handles like a top, even compared to some great handling cars I've owned (MR2, STI, etc). I also can't believe how cheap aftermarket parts are... In fact, it kind of annoys me that I can get a brand new set of sway bars for this thing for $200, and I'd have to hunt to find ONE that price for my R32.
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# ? Apr 3, 2011 04:11 |
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My power windows are being weird. It takes multiple 'clicks' for them to go up/down. Like the 3rd time I press the button they activate (actual movement of the window is otherwise normal). Is this just the switch being silly?
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# ? Apr 5, 2011 05:39 |
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Piano posted:My power windows are being weird. It takes multiple 'clicks' for them to go up/down. Like the 3rd time I press the button they activate (actual movement of the window is otherwise normal). Is this just the switch being silly? Sounds like the switch is faulty or the motor is. Do you hear any noise when you press it the first time? It could be that the motor is getting stuck and when you press the window switch several times it unsticks it. If it's the switch, you could just take it apart and clean the contacts. If is the motor, junkyard time!
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# ? Apr 6, 2011 01:32 |
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Hello Miata thread. I own a '96 in pristine condition that I bought for a song about this time last year off a dude who needed to dump cars to pay down debt. I only drive it during the summertime - the rest of the time it's in storage. I have a few questions if you wouldn't mind giving me some opinions. 1.) My fuel door is chrome instead of the normal body color like it appears everyone else's Miata has. The former owner insists it's not after-market but that's the way it came from the dealer. Is that possible or was this just a slip in his memory? 2.) When I was looking to buy the car I brought it to a mechanic to have them evaluate the car. I was told that the condition was excellent but that one of the cylinders was losing compression, but still within "Mazda specifications" whatever that might mean. I was told they had ruled out a cracked piston or block or a blown head gasket. I bought it anyway and drove it all of last summer without much of an issue; gas mileage was lower than expected (about 24 with combined highway/city driving) but I otherwise noticed no issues. I understand how a car works mechanically but I lack the know-how to repair anything myself. Is this something I need to have a mechanic fix? If so, will this be a big deal? Will it be very expensive? 3.) While I went through last summer without incident, I have this persistent fear that my soft-top will be slashed at some point and I'm thinking about buying a hardtop. I've read the miata.net hardtop guide and I feel confident in my ability to install it. Is there anything you guys might recommend inspecting when I'm choosing a hard-top to buy from a former owner? Thank you all in advance.
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# ? Apr 10, 2011 17:23 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 23:34 |
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1. It's aftermarket 2. Low compression can mean a few things and it doesn't necessarily rule out anything. These cars get pretty bad gas mileage for a 1.8L 4 cylinder because the gearing is so low. 3. There's no such thing as "installing a hardtop". Here's what you do: you go look on CL and find either the prettiest hardtop or the cheapest or the one that matches your car, pay your 800-1000 dollars. You hook it onto the frankenstein bolts and you do the front latches. If you're feeling saucy, you pick up some side strikers, dremel your interior trim and get the side latches on, too.
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# ? Apr 10, 2011 17:43 |