Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us $3,400 per month for bandwidth bills alone, and since we don't believe in shoving popup ads to our registered users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
  • Post
  • Reply
notro man
Aug 23, 2006


Schwack posted:

On a 94 NA is it possible to find a car equipped with a LSD without having the A package equipment?

No, it needs to be at least the A, B, or C package. Base models did not come with Torsen, nor was it an option. Also no automatics.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


leica posted:

Funny how the NC looks awesome from any angle not showing the front.

IMO, the headlights are a tad too high and that toilet lid hood.....Gah. But people are really making improvements and I'm starting to change my mind about them. I'd love to drive one.....Has anyone driven the NC that can compare it to an NA or NB? I'd love to hear a comparison.

I've owned an NA for a few years, and I've had an NB for the last 3 years as well. I've only driven the NC on an autocross course several times and my first impressions of the stock car were that it had pretty good power and amazing brakes. I would dare to say the brakes were better than the few AP1 S2000's that I autocrossed in the past. The car held up in turns just fine despite the heavy body roll. So even though it may not look pretty around corners, it still moved pretty quick. I enjoyed it.

Phone posted:

Welp, I just ripped my softtop. I was zipping up the rear plastic window, and it tore a bit along the window. I can't really afford a new top right now, but I do have a hardtop. Is duct tape a safe bet to try to keep out water? I don't use it much outside of sunny days, and I do need a new top and probably a new rain rail.

My buddy had his plastic window separate from the soft top as well. He first used some clear duct tape and it held up just fine, didn't leak or anything. Later he found some adhesive at menards (he says he's seen it at auto parts stores as well). It came in a little red tube and it is clear. It dries nice and hard and clear. He used that and then put some camo duct tape (nobody can see camo, so it works better than clear) over it. Hasn't had any problems with leaks in the last year.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


I've done it at 35mph, but I don't think I can muscle it at 70mph. Probably wouldn't want to either. My buddy didn't latch his down completely once by accident and the top came flying open on the highway. The twisting force ended up bending the top frame.

Unless your forehead pokes out past the windshield frame or it's really pouring outside, just roll up the windows and turn on your wipers. The rain isn't going to get you at 70mph.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


n8r posted:

What are the current thoughts on alignments for a '92 stock Miata, just typical street / not racing/autoxing. I am thinking of going with the Flyin' Miata alignment since I've read it has good tire wear and is decent for street driving.

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/alignment.php

That looks pretty good for the street and it will do fine on the autocross too. You can even go a touch milder on the camber, but honestly, that won't give you any funny tire wear. However, the mechanic may have problems reaching -1 degree camber on the front wheels with the stock suspension. Some alignment places like to start from the back wheels. Have your mechanic dial in the front's to -1 degrees or whatever is the maximum that he can get (if he can't reach -1) and then set the rears to 0.5 degrees less (more negative camber). I've seen lots of mechanics reach -1.5 in the back without any issues, but then leave the car with -0.6 in the front because that's all they could get.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


Never had a problem with using anti-seize between the hub and the rotor. I've done it on all the cars I've changed brakes on and it makes the next change go that much smoother.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


phootnote posted:

why do some people store their miatas in the winter? is it bc they have another car for the winter specifically? miatas do not run so well in the winter? i don't know, and i am just curious for your reasons.

I love driving the Miata in the winter. Any RWD car for that matter. As long as you have good tires on that can handle the snow, it's a blast. I store my Miata not because of the weather, but because of all the salt they dump on the roads. It's a rust-free car, and I intend to keep it that way.

edit - to get rid of any confusion, my first Miata had some rust issues so I had no problem driving it year round.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


Dicker posted:

the 1.8' cars have Better brakes, engines and differentials. The 1993 has alot of the chassis reinforcements found on 1994+, Interior wise the passenger gets an airbag, and more legroom (ECU goes behind the passenger seat)

I would take a 94 or 95 over any other year NA's

Huh? Better engines? They're the same engine with a bumped up displacement. The only advantage is that it has more torque as a result.

But yeah, the '94 does come with a stronger rear diff and bigger brakes (I wouldn't say they're better). I would pick the '94 over the '93, but it all depends on what condition the cars are. I'd take a clean '93 over a beat '94 any day.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


Dicker posted:

The BP and B6 are not the same engine with bumped up displacement, the block is different. most things do not transfer over.

7-8 more whp and a better powerband = better.

and yes 1995 cars are OBD-I

The block is different only because it is longer to fit the larger pistons. Other than that, it's the same design. The pistons in the B6 were 78mm wide, which was the maximum size allowed for the block. The BP block was stretched to allow for 83mm pistons. Other than the bore spacing, nothing really changed in the block.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


Yes, it has the limited slip.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


Year: 1999 w/ FMII turbo, 2.5" turbo-back exhaust
Mileage: 37k
Last: 26mpg
Best: 30 mpg (highway trip, trying to stay off boost [not always working])
Worst: 18mpg (driving like an rear end)

Not going to bother with track/autox mileage.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


Sigma X posted:

I really don't understand how anyone is getting this kind of mileage. I just finished driving through 8 (7.982) gallons of gas and I made it 162 (.5) miles. That's about 20 MPG. Taking into account that it is 140 city miles and 20 highway miles, and that those city miles are all before the car has warmed up, and also that I drive with the top down all the time, I'm still not coming anywhere close to the mileage that I should be getting. And there's no problems with the car, I'm not beating it ridiculously, I do have oversize tires on the car, but not enough to account for the difference in actual and reported mileage. No CELs, no codes in the ECU. No modifications other than a Flyin' Miata axle-back muffler. The air filter is clean, the oil is 2500 miles old.

2002 LS with 74K miles.

That's weird man, I've never heard of anyone getting such lovely mileage on a mostly stock Miata. Even my old '90 averaged 27-30mpg city/highway mix and I was constantly beating on it. My previous '99, bone stock, averaged 25-27mpg city and 30 highway.

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


sonique128 posted:

Would anyone happen to have the large version of this image? I've used this image as an avatar for a couple of years now, and I got the original in AI eons ago.




As thanks, here are two photos I took of my buddies NB yesterday:





That reminds me of my friend's NB



notro man
Aug 23, 2006


Pledio posted:

Alright, so maybe you guys can help me.

My 1990 Mazda Miata died on the way home tonight. From research, it looks like I may have fried my ignition module, and have no idea how that happened (I drive fast, but never redline, I'm talking a max of ~5500-6000 RPM)

So anyway, I'm driving home from work, in gridlock traffic. I bring it into neutral, and lift off the clutch while I wait for the light. Light turns green, I engage 1st gear, and....it dies. It shuddered really bad when this happen, I thought I was dumb and just stalled out, but apparently not, because the whole thing wouldn't start. Engine doesn't turn over, nor do I hear a click when I try to turn the ignition.

What's weird, is the electrical system was freaking out when I tried to start the car. Like it was draining the alternator almost. I wouldn't have power for a few minutes, then it would slowly return power to the car. I tried to look at the wiring under the hood, nothing looks burnt, and my timing belt and all that good stuff is still intact, so I'm absolutely perplexed as to what happened. Car has worked flawlessly just about, except for minor shuddering when coming out of first. I just thought maybe the gears were slipping a little.

A friend of mine who has an RX7 said he had the same problem, and it was an electrical problem, though he wasn't specific as to what exactly fixed is. I'm sorry if this is a basic question, but I have no clue.

Check your grounds. Make sure they're all tight and clean. I haven't worked on Miatas in a few years, but you should find a list of all the grounding points on m.net - I had a similar problem and turns out I had a loose ground from my lovely 4-wire O2 installation that was causing the issues.

If it's not grounds, I would troubleshoot the ignition switch and the main relay that's in the relay box under the hood on the passenger side (that's what clicks when you turn the keys).

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

notro man
Aug 23, 2006


I haven't shopped for Miata parts in a few years, but Parts Group usually were awesome to deal with. Give them a call.

http://www.partsgroup.com/

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply