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Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
80mph in a miata is 4000 rpms with a 1.8 and 41xx in a 1.6. mine however just gets 26mpg all the time.

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Dicker
Sep 1, 2006

Psylocibe posted:

Hey guys, I'm going to be checking this out for a Socal goon, and I need to know what I need to keep an eye out for.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/476155134.html

Trouble spots, things to check, what should I specifically look for. Give me a Miata Rundown, because it's not going to be my car, and I'm basically going to be the eyes and ears and rear end for a guy 300 miles away.

judging from the top right picture the cars been in a wreck, the body line on the passenger side stops after the door :wtc:

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006

leica posted:

Just get a good set of tires, that's the best thing you can do for your Miata. Falken Azenis are an excellent tire for the price.

There's nothing you can really do for the motor for $500 that's going to be worth it. Maybe a header and/or exhaust, that's about it. Intakes are a waste of money.

Get tires.

i dont know if the NB is different, but the intake is a MUCH bigger improvement

i've dyno'd my car with a racing beat intake, and a catback, and with a stock exhaust.

one horsepower difference.

the intake was good for about 5-6whp.

stock 1.8's tend to get 103, i got 109 and 108

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
thats a good deal for a nice car. if you want to fix the clearcoat peeling in a little spot under the gas lid, just use some spraypaint can clear over it, problem solved.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
get some better tires than that. the 185/65 is too tall, and ziex have the same amount of grip as I cant believe its not butter.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Having a torsen LSD is very smooth and it doesnt get intrusive in slow driving.

My kaaz 1.5 way which made out of the bones of dead japanese race drivers is a bit more intrusive :D

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
I havent driven an ITB'd miata before, but i have driven a carbed one (ce28n's car, the one in modified mag) and watched it do a dyno run..


170k mile 1.6 with mikuni pph 40mm carbs, hks vpc, rb header, testpipe, and rsr exhaust put down 111whp tuned by a stoner.

thats 2 more than my 100k mile 1.8 with RB intake and RSR exhaust.


the power wasnt a big deal but the noise and feel of the great midrange response was really cool. I would do ITB's but I cant justify the price.

(felt alot better than my 1.8 even down low)

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
I dont know about the manual rack guys.

i've got a manual rack with azenis and a 330mm wheel and parking in my garage sucks. :(

also. I'm M.net approved 1995 base with 88k miles RB intake and BSP exhaust for $3000 even.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
check the gaskets around the taillights, i dont have any any my car loves getting water in the trunk.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
The azenis are rediculously cheap.

The RS2 would be a logical choice(more comfortable and longer wearing than than azenis), but it is more money.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Very cool XXXXXXXXXXXX, I just installed the 2.low links (yours are the standard ones)on my miata last weekend with Steve (the owner of gearheads garage) showing me how to set them up. Big difference!!

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Illumina vs AGX debate... They both suck, from my experience the AGX suck less and are cheaper. Konis are so much better that no one should buy anything else.\

ClubRoadster isnt all ricers (me)!

And my car is Finally back to 100% and ready for the track (except my tires are almost gone again :( )

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
The covered taillights on the black NC look pretty good, its just red laminx laid over the stock light.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
I ordered some hankook RS2's in 225/45/15 just now, yay!!!

I'm researching swaybars right now... I'm pretty much dead set on a RB tubular front with the stock rear bar (11mm), I'll be using superpro Poly bushings for the rear sway, and For the rear I'm planning on just getting the block kit, and not the whole bracket.

Anyone got any reason why I should be running the full brace kit? My friend who worked at RB and Emilio both told me just to use the block kit.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Savington, you rule! that was awesome. Kaaz LSD's are supposed to be able to handle a pretty good beating, and they arent too expensive (I paid 730 shipped for mine)

Phone: I just put in some HP+ and Napa Ultra Premium Rotors (18$ a piece brembos) The Break in was great, doing the race situation stops at night is way cool with sparks flying out of the wheel wells. And I'll be putting 225/45/15 RS2's on wednesday.


Oh and I installed the RB hollow front bar but havent tested it yet.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
phone:


Go to napa or whatever and get some high temp synthetic brake grease, grease the sliders and back of the pads with it. a brake job should take about 3 hours for all 4 wheels taking it slow.

someone with expericence can do the fronts in around 45 minutes.\

Edit: my super pro rear sway bar bushings came, woo!

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Pads and rotors takes a bit more time than just pads. Changing the front pads takes less that 30 minutes, The rear takes more time because you have to use that screw to adjust the caliper.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
I just spray PB blaster behind the rotor and around the lugnuts and then whack it with a wooden mallet, pops off on the first or second try.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
the 1.8' cars have Better brakes, engines and differentials. The 1993 has alot of the chassis reinforcements found on 1994+, Interior wise the passenger gets an airbag, and more legroom (ECU goes behind the passenger seat)

I would take a 94 or 95 over any other year NA's

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
The BP and B6 are not the same engine with bumped up displacement, the block is different. most things do not transfer over.

7-8 more whp and a better powerband = better.

and yes 1995 cars are OBD-I

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Today I hung out with a few miata guys at a local autocross, emilio drove my car about 5 runs and Let me scrub in some NT01's for him.





Emilio showing off



my friend sean doing it wrong:

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006

Savington posted:

Yeah, Emilio let me do this at Buttonwillow last year.

So when are you buying your set of NT-01s? V:haw:V

I'm running RS2's right now.

the course we were doing I only ran .2 seconds faster on the NT01's vs my hankooks, and emilio was .7 faster than me in my car. :(

but yes NT01's rule, I need another set of 6ul's

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
My lip is an OEM R lip that has met the ground alot, and has a 949racing sticker on the front.

Savington - all 109whp! I have a Kaaz LSD so i dont really have issues putting the power down..



Heres a close up of the lip

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006

Savington posted:

I want to know everything about this. How much, helical or clutch, availability, how long does it last if it's a clutch, 1.5 or 2, how's the lock-up, more biased towards drift/track or autocross, etc.

How Much - $830 shipped is retail through touge factory with a 2L of kaaz oil (like 45$) i paid $730 in january during a group buy.

Clutch Type - http://www.kaazusa.com/lsd.html

Easy to get, Kaaz USA is based in orange county CA.

it lasts a long while as long as you maintain it (oil change every 5k miles with non synthetic and a friction modifier, or if you have the money, kaaz oil which is 22$ per change. I use sta-lube GL5 75w90 with equitorque friction modifier)

Lock up can be fine tuned by how much friction modifier you use, i run about 3.5 ounces of it in the diff, and its seamless, no chatter, no harsh engagement, just a little tire chatter doing tight uturns on the gas. If you want it to lock like god just welded your diff together just run straight gear oil with no modifier, but it will be hell making low speed turns.

It's a 1.5 way and emilio said he liked the way my car felt, and I thourougly enjoy having it. I'll be at big willow on wednesday, and I'll report back how it felt on the track vs autox.


If you want a 2way to be a madtite drifter or for maximum launch, you can get the maruha 2way from chikara.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
its preventitive, the fluid comes out pretty dang clean.

if you're doing an autocross of drift day and really beating on the diff, you want to change it afterwards.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
I'm assuming you mean hawk brake pads?

carbotech is the hot setup, but they arent cheap.

949racing carries them.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Ziploc,


First thing I would do is bleed your brakes with a somewhat decent fluid (ATE super blue is a good value), and then if the problems persist, replace your pads with hawk HPS, you dont need too much pad if you're using ziex 512's

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
the godspeed one is supposed to be ok, but i havent seen it first hand.

https://www.radiatorbarn.com has a good deal on an all metal one for like 130$ shipped.

I personally have a 1" koyo OEM replacement i got through a friend for dirt cheap, and for a stock engine car it works great in 100* track use.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
two screws in the housing and then the bulb comes out of the housing.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
I run mine at -2.1 and -1.4, yours doesnt sound too far off, especially for a street miata.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
and 1994+ 1.6l miata is a slow slow car, spring for the 1.8

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
I do not understand how you guys get 30mpg.


I drive the car hard it gets 26mpg, i drive the car like grandma (still doing 80 on the freeway though) i get 26.5

1995 113k miles
RB intake OEM lip, Hardtop.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
The green NB is a 99 US market car. thats a garage Vary front splitter.

you dont need hubcentric wheels, its a waste of time, I've done 125 mph on the original 15x8 6ul's and they're just fine. and a bunch of track events riding the gators.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
This is a video from the all miata (okay we had one MR-S and one V8 RX7, but they're cool guys) drift/grip event at horse theif mile. you can see my car at 1:03, which of course means I am now internet famous and would like to collect my check.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9jyUvD-M6E

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
75/90!

I use 1 quart MTL 1 quart MT90 in my trans and 80/90GL5 in my diff.


Anyone see this yet? I'm still waiting for the classes to be finalized because I'm one point out of street class and far too slow to compete in modified.

https://www.miatachallenge.com

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
gunk on the front of the engine = front main seal

just replace it when you do the timing belt/water pump.

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Did you get that from the guy selling the non assembled tops? by the looks of it, i'd say thats ce28n's old hardtop?

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
Savington is fast.

I am slow.

That is all.

ps. Socal Miata guys + savington.

Dicker fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Dec 2, 2008

Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
That R is a steal, I would love to pay someone $4000 for that!

:(

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Dicker
Sep 1, 2006
I'm still sad savingtons car blew up at the ACS RTA :(

Haven't seen it in action in a year.

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