MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Gear Head posted:

What is AI's opinion on mismatched hardtops? Black top on white car, red on white, etc. And why isn't an OEM making cheap hardtops

I have a BRG on a Marina Mica. You almost can't tell.

# ¿ Oct 19, 2007 01:07

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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 03:27

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Pimpsolo posted:

Fuuuuck. Can anyone advise me as to whether I should let my Miata finally hit the hay?

Stop what you are doing. The reverse thing is a common problem.

Read:http://www.miata.net/garage/stuckreverse.html

# ¿ Oct 19, 2007 01:15

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

n8r posted:

Anyone else have a stinky fuel smelling Miata? I replaced the fuel cap, and checked the piping that runs into the tank and it all seems solid. My research on Miata.net didn't seem to help with much. The smell seems to really collect in the trunk as well.

Stuff sitting in my trunk usually has a bit of a fuel smell too for some reason.

# ¿ Oct 24, 2007 23:33

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

leica posted:

Jesus dude, you can't fault the tires for that. Get an alignment when you get new tires.

Maybe it's the driver. He could constantly piling on too much lock and under steering everywhere.

# ¿ Oct 28, 2007 00:13

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

leica posted:

That's odd. I used to work at a Mazda dealer not too long ago, and the only cars that we put premium in were the turbo cars.

Nearly all the NBs called for premium...

# ¿ Nov 5, 2007 15:33

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

duep posted:

I am experiencing a little trouble with the shifting.
When I shift slowly everything is pretty much quite smooth, but when I shift in a let's say more sportive way, I get some resistance that feels like grinding gears. Though usually there isn't any noise at all, when I shift really fast it is accompanied by a clunk noise. This does not seem to get better as the transmission warms up.
I have experienced this with second, third and fourth gear, probably also happens in first and fifth, I just don't use these as much. Clutch does not seem to be leaking.

Those are your synchros. Try experimenting with different weights of oil. I had a crunch sensation going into 2nd and 3rd/ Changing to Redline MTL (for the winter) improved things.

# ¿ Nov 17, 2007 17:48

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

leica posted:

Just get a good set of tires, that's the best thing you can do for your Miata. Falken Azenis are an excellent tire for the price.

There's nothing you can really do for the motor for $500 that's going to be worth it. Maybe a header and/or exhaust, that's about it. Intakes are a waste of money.

Get tires.

Decent shocks could be had for under 500$. Maybe a good more aggressive alignment will sharpen things up too.

# ¿ Nov 22, 2007 05:34

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Hard color to match. At least my car is really close to BRG.

BRG Hardtop on a Marina Mica car.

Phone posted:

Get one with the headliner, too.

Does it make that much of a difference? Mine has one but my friends does not. Apart from the better looking foam I can't really see that many noticeable benefits. Does it stay that much warmer? And drive that much quieter? Or is it simply because of the defroster at the back?

For the record mine has the headliner and no rear defrost. The PO cheaped out when replacing the rear glass. And to be honest even that isn't an issue. The cabin is so small that I can point the middle vents at the rear window and have them defrost it in nearly the same amount of time. (As long as they are shooting warm air)

EDIT: I bought mine for 700CDN one year ago when the loony was weak. It is BRG and has some tiny chips.

Ziploc fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Dec 5, 2007

# ¿ Dec 5, 2007 06:24

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Walked posted:

How big of a deal is buying a miata that was autocrossed for a season? Mainly in reference to clutch life and transmission abuse.

Already intend to have it looked at by a dealer, but want to be sure I'm not missing anything here.

edit: For a more in-dept summary, to get general insight as well:
2002 LS w/ 70k miles & hardtop. Overall good cosmetic condition.
3 previous owners. 1 minor parking lot incident, and sideswiped once (two trips to body shop).
Service records from 48k miles onwards - clutch replaced at about 50k, and has one season of autocross on it.

Thoughts, comments, or input? $9900 and from a goon.

I don't think Autocross is that hard on the car. I don't see anyone launching or shifting particularly hard at the events that I attend. I don't launch or shift that hard either and the car drives as well as the day I bought it last year.

EDIT: That said. You better loving autocross it.

# ¿ Dec 12, 2007 00:56

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Walked posted:

I say I wont, but the bug will honestly probably get me. But right now my stance is that I'm not going to

Your not possibly going to give a good enough reason.

# ¿ Dec 12, 2007 04:31

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Walked posted:

Agreed, hence the fact that I probably ultimately will. But drat it, I am desperately trying to avoid finding ANOTHER hobby to dump thousands into

Pfft. Apart from the 30$ entry fee I have had not a single extra cost come from autocrossing.

# ¿ Dec 12, 2007 05:54

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

At what power gains do you start having to factor a beefier clutch?

# ¿ Dec 14, 2007 00:33

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Guinness posted:

What is that little piece of metal that is screwed onto the driver's side wiper blade? What is its function, and why is it only on one side? Mine is rusting (the only part on the whole car) and it's kind of ugly. I can't imagine it is very important and I kind of want to take it off - but I have no idea why it's even there. Can anyone enlighten me?

Its to help press the windshield wiper into the windshield at speed. To stop it lifting from the windshield untimatly.

# ¿ Jan 13, 2008 06:33

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Coolnezzz posted:

You all have permission to come lynch me if you want:

My first drive of a modified 2002 LE resulted in power oversteer into a guardrail. It's the fastest car I've ever driven and I guess I was used to my piece of junk Isuzu that can be thrown around turns at full throttle and never break loose.

Hopefully the bumpers wont be too expensive to replace, I fully intend to return it to it's original shape and hopefully condition, then learn to not drive like a loving jackass.

That engine looks stock.

# ¿ Feb 2, 2008 18:06

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Why does it only have the FM bar in the rear?

Thats a good recipe for oversteer if I remember.

# ¿ Feb 2, 2008 23:16

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Luxmore posted:

No the old Mazda logo is neat:

What the hell is this for? Its huge!

# ¿ Feb 5, 2008 00:47

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

destructo posted:

Just posting to say that grinder from Autokonexion is making some progress.. evidently this will be available sometime in March 2008 -- Link.

JDM posted:

For the last time, yes the trunk will still be functional.

How do they do that? A hatch then a trunk? I've never seen now the S2k ones work either.

# ¿ Feb 6, 2008 04:39

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Are FM Sways going to ruin the toss-ability of my car?

I have quite a bit of fun driving it in stock for so I'm wary of making modifications that will take the fun out of it.

# ¿ Mar 4, 2008 20:29

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

mobn posted:

The FM sways are awesome, and adjustable to your liking. Just be careful not to overcook it in the wet if you set them stiff, because you will spin.

I know they are adjustable since they are sitting on my floor right now with my Tokico Illuminas.

Can you really tell the difference between the settings?

# ¿ Mar 5, 2008 03:26

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

leica posted:

Are FM sways better than others? I had put sways (I think Racing Beat) on my '91 and it made the front end push really bad. I took them off the next day.

Did you do front only?

# ¿ Mar 5, 2008 05:14

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

I hope FM sways match up well with stock springs.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2008 15:19

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Anyone have any experience repairing the rust under the doors? Where to go? What to expect? What to ask for?

# ¿ Mar 7, 2008 06:26

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Well I think my slave cyl just bit it. If I leave the car for a while the clutch engagement is quite close to the floor. I can pump it back up, but later its at the floor again. Fluid doesn't seem to be leaking out anywhere in a hurry though. I noticed it was also low as well at a friends house and threw some opened brake fluid in there in case there was a leak. I did overfill it past the max line since I didn't have a funnel. I only drove for ~2 miles to get home. I'm going to flush the system anyway obviously so I wasn't terribly worried about the old fluid. I know its less than a year old. What happens when you overfill the master cyl anyway?

I'm going to go and replace the slave unless I get a reason to do the master at the same time.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2008 01:03

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Should I be adjusting my clutch pedal after replacing the slave cylinder? It's grabbing a bit higher than before which is beginning to annoy me. I want it grabbing a little earlier.

Also, could the clutch fluid level being past max cause this? If so why?

EDIT: I took the extra fluid out and adjusted my freeplay to a little over 0.5inches. Feels better now. I wonder how doing the slave changed the freeplay...

Ziploc fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Mar 16, 2008

# ¿ Mar 15, 2008 21:46

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

destructo posted:

Yeah, it is. The nice thing is that you can get a nice, barely used 1.8 out of a 2000-ish Sephia for $300.

Why have I never heard about this in researching Miatas for two years?

# ¿ Mar 17, 2008 00:00

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

mobn posted:

Check your air filter. Mine does that when something big gets caught in it.

What about the cats?

# ¿ Mar 17, 2008 06:44

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

ChiliMac posted:

That's understandable--I'd appreciate those things as well. I guess it's nomenclature confusion, I'd consider "bottoming" referring to the bottom of the car hitting something but I guess it can refer to the shocks topping out (hrm, so maybe I'd call it topping?).

Bottoming is the shock running out of travel and hitting the rubber stop. Droop travel is how far the shock can uncompress. Some shock mounts will move the shock shaft higher giving you more compression travel at the cost of droop travel since the rod is now further outside the shock.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2008 18:26

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

FireTora posted:

It's not when it hits the rubber bump stop, its when the shocks piston hits the bottom of the shock body.

To be honest. Both definitions are used pretty interchangeably. What would you call the shock hitting the rubber stop then?

# ¿ Mar 19, 2008 19:17

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Tai-Pan posted:

I noticed I am leaking coolant really fast. 91 w/ 130K.
It looks like the fluid is coming out behind the cam belt cover so I think there is a 99% chance that I need a new water pump.

However, the previous owner "thinks" she had the timing belt done at 120K. I would assume they did the pump at the same time. Is there any chance that it could be leaking from something else?

I give it a 99% chance that your CAS leaked onto your coolant hose and caused it to fail and leak.

# ¿ Mar 26, 2008 18:09

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Tai-Pan posted:

Well looking at the side of the block I can see the rust/discoloration on top of the alternator and on the driver side of the block toward the front. The CAS is in the back, right?

However, I let the engine run for 15 minutes last night and I could not actual see any drops directly so its a bit of a mystery.

http://sabretooth.id.au/mx-5/engineswap1/removal1/35done.jpg

Notice the bursting hose. The round hole is where the CAS goes and very frequently leaks onto the coolant hose.

Ziploc fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Mar 26, 2008

# ¿ Mar 26, 2008 20:10

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Phone posted:

You mean swollen?

I think Tai-Pan is talking about coolant leaking from near the front of the motor, not the back of the motor. If it was in the back of the motor, then the CAS is a gimmie. Front of the motor, that CAS is going to have to get creative about getting oil to the front of the motor.

My apologies. I must have read it wrong. :downs:

# ¿ Mar 26, 2008 21:17

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

I'm going to take a stab at this.

Etrips posted:

03 LS

Edit:

- Change engine oil and filter
- Install Castle oil additive (?)
- Check transmission coolant level - Miata doesn't have a transmission cooler.
- Inspect and clean exterior of radiator core\
- Test coolant & flush coolant
- Replace air cleaner element - NBs might have one. But I doubt it.
- Clutch adjustment - Easy peasey to do yourself. Like 5 minutes easy.
- Inspect exhaust system
- Replace spark plugs - Therapeutic wrenching. Do it yourself.
- Adjust ignition timing - Done easily if you have a timing light. Odds are its within spec. You would know if it wasn't.
- Inspect motor transmissions mount - Miata only has two mounts on the engine. Transmission is connected to a power plant frame.
- Check ignition wiring and timing control system
- Check and adjust idle speeds
- Inspect PCV valve
- Check fuel lines and connections, change fuel filter
- Inspect charcoal canister - Never heard of this
- Clean and adjust front and rear brakes - Clean?
- Measure brake pads and flush brake lines - Bleeding the brakes isn't something to be afraid of. It's trivial work. Heck my Dad refuses to ever flush the brakes and all of his cars drive perfectly fine. (I still think its dumb not to)
- Inspect steering operation, tie rod ends and rack guides
- Measure tire wear and adjust tire pressure - This takes under a minute to do yourself
- Rotate and high speed balance all tires
- Inspect all fluids - Eyes are required.
- Lubrication of all recommended areas
- Install Castle Fuel System Conditioner (?)
- Test EGR system and fuel injection system
- Clean throttle body - Some intake cleaner, a brush, and 15 minutes and you've done it.

Nearly all of the above is trivial work. And its very likely that you would notice any of the items on the list being out of spec after the first few days of ownership. The CASTLE stuff scares me though. That list is not for a Miata. It's likely a cash grab for all the vehicles they sell.

Take my post as a grain of salt though. It's just my recommendations.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2008 05:51

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

laymil posted:

Then again, if you talk to FM, they prefer the Illuminas with their springs (but sell them with AGXs, the bastards).

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept=12

Schwack posted:

Haha, Im sure they're great but they are probably overkill for someone like me. That and they would basically cost as much as my whole little package I've drawn up here.

Also, does anybody have any comments on the quality of the bushings I mentioned?

I've got Illuminas and FM sways waiting to go in my car right now. I came to the same "Illumina > KYB" conclusion that you did.

FM stopped selling KYB because they believe the damping profile of the Illumina is superior.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2008 17:01

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

laymil posted:

Well, when I bought my set, they packaged them with KYBs. I was pissed when I called to do the warranty replacement on them and they said "oh we like them with illuminas much better".

As for them believing the damping profile of the Illumina is superior, all their testing for their springs was done seat of the pants. They don't have shock dynos for them and didn't care about it when I asked. Their new setup seems to be quite a bit more researched (AFCO).

FCM has a shock dyno and he told me the same thing. That he likes the damping of the Illuminas better than the KYB.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2008 17:24

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

destructo posted:

edit:
Sweet jesus, someone actually bought the -27et Racer-x and is mounting them on their NA over at clubroadster.net

Link!

EDIT: Hahah http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLjlHH_JCJE

Ziploc fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Apr 1, 2008

# ¿ Apr 1, 2008 20:44

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

How likely will a 1997 Miata need new bushings? When do you change them?

# ¿ Apr 2, 2008 20:50

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Dicker posted:

They both suck, from my experience the AGX suck less and are cheaper.

Please tell us about your experience with both shocks.

# ¿ Apr 3, 2008 15:31

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

Savin 'dis from the archives to ask a random Miata question.

My NA has a ratty exhaust with leaks after the header. I don't know where they are exactly yet, but I've been told that I apparently need to replace quite a bit of it.

I plan on doing this on a bit of a budget. I'm not looking for power gains but if the price is right I won't say no to them either. I loved the stock sound. Not too loud, no rasp, sounded like a boat when burbling around and decently throaty when opening it up. Didn't draw any unwanted attention either. However now with the holes it just constantly sounds like a wet fart. And with the roof coming off since summer is fast approaching thats not going to fly.

So what are my options? Any recommendations?

# ¿ Apr 8, 2008 21:20

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

jromano posted:

I'm considering a Miata, but I have two concerns. I'm 6'1" so size could be a problem. Some people who are 6'4" say they fit fine, while others who are 5'7 say it's too tight.

The other is money. I'd have 4-5k to work with. Is this enough to buy a decent Miata and get it in running condition? It will be driven less than 75 miles a week most likely, but I absolutely do not want a headache.

Torso-Leg ratio is pretty important. You can cut the foam out of the seats to give yourself some precious inches. Called a foamectomy. My SIDS has a 5k Miata. It's a bit rough around the edges and has had the odd thing go wrong. (Rear main seal, slave cyl) If you get one with a better history it should be perfectly fine.

# ¿ Apr 12, 2008 07:11

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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 03:27

Ziploc: Sep 19, 2006; MX-5

I've never purchase/replaced an exhaust before. What should I know when shopping around?

# ¿ Apr 14, 2008 05:39

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