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Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma








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Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


brainwrong posted:

More

Now goonified


Nice, how much that cost, 5k? Plates over here are retardedly expensive

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


lordmaf posted:


Ill miss her when she goes. cracking little car that has not broken down or had any major problem (alternator belt going). But i need something faster.


6 months and counting

Well played, thats a nice step up, but I don't think its as live able as a daily driver as a Miata can be.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


When should the cambelt be done, and how much is it likely to set me back?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


So a bolt or something came loose in my engine bay, it held together the power steering fluid. Said fluid leaked everywhere and my steering went really stiff, I called the RAC out and they filled it back up and advised me to have the engine bay steam cleaned.

Car has done 60k and is due a cambelt I believe, so would you guys suggest a cambelt and waterpump change as well as a steam clean and general service?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


Coolnezzz posted:

My first drive

As in, you were taking it home from where you bought it when you did this?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


butt terrarium posted:

That's unfortunately what comes with owning a roadster like the miata.

Wait what? I love my miata because of the exact opposite, when compared with expensive higher strung cars like my old one where every noise means 1000 bill, the same would cost for a whole new engine in a Miata, and a weird noise normally doesn't meant anything anyway!

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


chem42 posted:

It's a non-interferance motor (which is rare for a high strung DOHC motor) so even a timing belt failure is no biggie.

Does this mean if my cambelt snaps the car should be ok?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


leica posted:

Have you even driven an ITB Miata?

I don't think these things have reached the mainstream UK market yet, what do they consist of and what do they do to the car?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


leica posted:

responsiveness

sorry for being such a loving n00b, but responsiveness? Can you explain that one as well? I'm assuming it means how quickly it picks up from when you press on the throttle that bit extra, however, wouldn't more power mean this as well?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


Baby Hitler posted:

Because maybe I want to read a thread on SA about Miatas, not dumb poo poo about why you want to blow a guy when everyone wants to stone him. People posted facts about his cars having issues, you posted he's a nice guy so its all wrong. This has nothing to do with Miatas, and all to do with another forum.

Stop back seat moding mate, its very relevant when were talking about ITB'd miata's, your just being an idiot.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


leica posted:

And why the hell is your mom even involved, are you in highschool?

This has confused me, lots.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


I've just had a track day and I think im in need of new break pads and iv needed a cambelt change for awhile, so im in for an expensive month.

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_i...products_id/292 - Green stuff front pads
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_i...products_id/293 - Green stuff rear pads
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_i...products_id/231 - Oil Filter
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_i...products_id/235 - NGK Sparkplug Set

These are the parts im thinking of supplying myself for them to be fitted when it goes in to whichever garage I take it too, does anyone have any comments on these parts/products or any recommendations on anything else I should supply myself?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


Savington posted:

175 on an M45 is doable, but not intelligent. MP62 or turbo is the way to go for anything more than 150. (basically, gently caress the M45.)

200-250 is a HUGE range. A reliable 200whp is a GT2554R and a stock engine; a reliable 250whp is a GT2860R/RS and forged rods. I suspect that the 200-220 range is what you are really shooting for; for that range, leave your motor alone and use a GT2560R turbo. If you ever want to upgrade, the 2860 is a simple upgrade to give you headroom to 250, and at 250 you'll want to crack the motor open and do pistons and rods. You can do a 99 head and all the supporting mods, and then use a 2560 and hit 220whp, but you really don't need to spend all that money. To crack the motor open and do forged guts, billet OPG, ARP hardware, and a 99 head with a good valvetrain, you're looking at 3-4k minimum.

For 220whp, here's what I would do today (this is very, very close to what I actually did):

-Stock internals '94 longblock
-BEGi-S kit
-MSPNP/LC-1/Rx7 460cc injectors
-DIY intercooler/BOV setup
-3" exhaust

If you insist on opening the motor, use forged rods (CAT or ETD) and OEM 9.5:1 '99 pistons. The OEM cast pistons will do 300whp with ease, and they will cold idle MUCH smoother than forged pistons and last quite a bit longer. Forged pistons aren't really necessary until you are looking for more than 300whp, and if you can get away with cast ones the motor will remain much more streetable.

Remember that if you plan to actually drive the car, you'll need a clutch (ACT HD is best, and will take 220whp easily), and if you plan to track it, you'll need a larger radiator and an oil cooler at a bare minimum. A coolant reroute and a vented hood are both highly recommended for track use. You'll also need suspension to handle it, etc.
Would it be a realistic/good idea to aim for 220 with either the MP62 or Jackson Racing supercharger on a mk2? Apart from the kit, would upgrades to the engine be needed to handle this kind of power?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


sonique128 posted:


As thanks, here are two photos I took of my buddies NB yesterday:





Is the NB like the UK mk2 or the mk2.5? And what front splitter is he using, im going to have to make my front end look a little meaner to match the Forced Induction thats guna go in soon and I think that looks great.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


destructo posted:

gently caress YOU

ugh I'm indescribably jealous

Over here in the UK, everyone I know who has gone forced induction on there Miata has ended up selling the car a year later and moving on, why is this, are 200BHP Miata's comparable to Z4's, S2000 and the like?

I don't want to waste 3k on doing it to my car, only to then lust after something more upmarket as that 3k has got no real resale value.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


Savington posted:

Even if you move up a class, my car will wander away from STIs, Evos, E46 M3s, E39 M5s, 993 Carreras,

What are the specs of your car?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


Savington posted:

2300lb with a full tank of gas, about 235whp, mabye 270ish at the crank. Stock internals, BEGI manifold/DP, small T25 turbo, and a standalone controlling everything. 14psi on pump gas. The car went 13.75 at 100mph this week with a 2.21 60' on street tires, so with launch control, my normal R-compound tires, and no headwind, it should go 13.3-13.4 at 103+.


I think it's just the enormous wheels and the angle.

I'd always heard that stock internals were good for 250hp before they went, along with the clutch. I'm really tempted to go turbo, I think the cost of doing so over here and me being mechanically inept may make it less economically sensible compared to just saving up for something like a Z4M.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


I've got a bit of an interior problem, I own a mk2 with mk2.5 leather seats and door cards in. The door interiors comes away from both doors now I have upgraded the component speakers in the doors, there are no screws or attachment devices that I can see along the bottom of the door and this is where the door cards come away.

Its not a huge problem, but makes the car seem kinda old and broken when shutting the doors, anyone any ideas?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


aSocial posted:

After test-driving a miata, I've determined that my 6'2" frame can fit, but I would like some extra leg-room, mostly. Head is a little tight, but I can deal with that. Immediately, removing the driver's-side door handle will free up some knee room for working the clutch, but I was wondering if there were any more...tasteful seat options other than the racing seats out there that might net me some extra room? Also, does anyone have some experience replacing the steering wheel with something smaller that isn't $2-300, or should I plan on spending a lot if I want to do that, for quality/safety reasons?

Which Miata did you drive, the mk2.5 sports seats make the car allot smaller inside.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


I'm thinking of doing this - http://www.performance5.com/news_stageone.asp to my mk2 mx5

Is 190bhp at the fly compared to the 140bhp standard mx5's put out or is that a different kind of power measurement?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


destructo posted:

That's loving miserable. If you're going to get a supercharger, get the Rotrex from 949racing.

There's a very good reason why the supercharger section is essentially a running joke over at miataturbo.net

Can you expand on this? I have very little technical know how, the reason I was going for the supercharger Vs the turbo was the idea that I wanted to keep the engine characteristics of the car and the garage I linked has probably the best reputation in the UK for MX5's.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


destructo posted:

GT2554


The only reason I recommended the Rotrex is that it's pretty drat efficient and you can literally install/have your car running in three hours.

Well im not very technical minded so would be letting performance5 install it anyway, and I have never heard of Rotrex before you mentioned them where as the JRSC is mentioned all over the shop in M45 and the Eaton MP62 terms when it comes to the UK mx5 forums.

Willie D fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Jul 11, 2009

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


So I got pulled over for not displaying the correct kind of front number plate, I had gotten away with it for 3 years but a traffic cop busted me about a week ago

This is what it looked like



And this is what im going to have to go for.



The previous owner got rid of the bracket and holes for the proper front plate placement, so anyone got any ideas on how I can have a fully legal front plate be it 1 line or a square 2 lined plates one the the imports/motorbikes have?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


A5H posted:

Are those legit TE37s? Nice wheels man.

Yes, and thanks, I don't have the stickers on them any more.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


A5H posted:

Did you attend a mazda on track day recently by the way wild58?

Nope, I have been to Donnington a few times (I like the large run off there as im not a fantastic driver on track). Why, have you been?

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


My Master Cylinder thingy has broken and it was sticking the clutch, car is on 75kish miles and has had a supercharger on it at some point in its life so im guessing it was due a new clutch some time soon anyway.

While the Master Cylinder is being replaced I figure I might as well replace the clutch because its been sticking half way down because of the broken thing and probably worn an awful lot. I am thinking of one day supercharging my mx5 so is there any particular clutch out there that I should be looking at that can take 200bhpish safely or should I just stick a standard one in there?

Supercharger im looking at in about 6 months time is here

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/V...teIndexID=16224

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Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma


I have a 99 mk2 and today when selecting reverse and very slowly backing up there is a god awful squeal that I have not been able to replicate in any other gear at any other speed. Anyone any ideas?

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