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brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


vex posted:

I love how there's a pack of Miata driving faggots in that thread trying to defend the car. Do you morons not understand the internet?
Honestly.

Ignore Helldump, they'll get bored and go McCarthy the poo poo out of more pedophiles soon enough.

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brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


I zipped up my rear window yesterday accompanied by a nice tearing sound.

gently caress.

The plastic window section of the top separated from the rest of the top with the zipper closed. There's about an eight inch tear I can actually stick my hand through to the outside of the car. I'm trying to avoid removing the soft top to get it repaired, as later on I'd like to just unbolt and throw the entire drat thing away in favor of a hardtop. Unfortunately, that's a financial waiting game.

So tell me, is there a way recommended way to sew/shoe-goo the top so that it doesn't shred over the winter, or am I pretty much doomed to paying for a new softtop?

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Does anyone in the greater San Jose area have a hardtop that I can test fit? I'm really looking into buying one, but I have a rollbar I can't identify. I'm worried about plunking down the $1000 plus and having it not fit.

Bonus pic for possible identification of rollbar:

brosef deluxe fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Dec 7, 2007

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


destructo posted:


I maintain that the only acceptable body kit on a Miata is the Pitcrew conversion.
I've always hated that conversion. Why in god's name did they have to put the lights out in the front? Not enough room in the fenders, maybe? If they had done something more Spider Veloce style, I'd be the first in line.

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Savington posted:

That is correct. I have removed the engine, taken apart most of the dashboard, removed the air conditioning, installed a rollbar, replaced the shocks, springs, both rollbars, replaced all 4 pads and rotors at least twice and the front pads 4 times now, and fabricated and installed my own turbocharger setup, as well as my own oil cooler, and I have never actually taken serious notice of the clutch master cylinder.
Savington: 10x more honest than the average man.

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Well, poo poo. I woke up this morning and started my car to get to the store to a symphony of crappy noises. My A/C compressor sounds like it ate sand for breakfast. Merry loving Christmas to me. Luckily I am without P/S, so I cut the belt and disabled it for now.

So, fellow Miata fags, advice? Do I rebuild this expensive piece of poo poo, or do I rip the system out entirely for JDM tyte weight savings?

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Phone posted:

Most of the noises are new, and in the back of my mind catastrophic engine failure is just looming around the corner at every possible minute. I know I'm being a paranoid little bitch, but poo poo tends to roll downhill.
Oh god, I know this feeling. I am a bundle of neurosis about my car. The lifter noise in my NA on a cold morning makes me wonder when one of my connecting rods is going to exit the block, or whether the heater hose is going to burst and allow me to cook my engine without even knowing it. My transmission whines, so it's obviously going to fall out, blow up, kill a child, and leave me stranded.

There has to be a therapist for car hypochondriacs.

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Savington posted:

I HATE FUJI RACING GNARGNARGNARGNAR
I honestly cannot agree with you more. ITRRRRRB's sound awesome but Jimmy's a tool, and his megafanboi "PandaTrueno" (ugh) is even worse. I'd rather ask questions in this Megathread than the whole Miata.net. You either get geezers or ricers, and nobody in between.

Now that I think about it, gently caress model-specific forums in general.

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Wait, what? Somebody carbed the BP? Anyone have details on how it works?

How are they handling spark & advance (assuming the ECU is nonfunctional)?

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


I've been having an interesting little malfunction on my '95 after I drained my battery by leaving my lights on at work. After I jump started it, the car was not wanting to idle correctly. At no throttle, it would drop the idle down to 100-200 RPM and generally shake and be pissed off, then slowly bring itself back up to the normal 850 rpm. Off idle, there's no difference in drivability. Okay easy fix, I'm thinking that my EGR valve is crapping out, or my TB needs cleaning. Right?

Here's where it gets strange: When I turn my headlights on, the idle will not drop. I'm honestly mystified. Any thoughts, AI?

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


IOwnCalculus posted:

It's quite possible - I know GM ECMs need to do an idle relearn if they've been completely wiped out and it takes them a while sometimes. Depending on the engine it can be bad enough that it won't even hold an idle at all initially. No clue if the Miata's does.
Yeah, that's a possibility. Although you'd think between 3 days and 150 miles of Italian tuneup, it'd figure it out.

I'm still curious about the headlights preventing the idle problems, though.

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


After doing my taxes, I'm eligible for about a $600 rebate. I'd love to lose some wheel gap and replace my 125k mile OEM shocks, so I'm really thinking about grabbing some Koni Yellows and running the stock springs on the lowest perch. Is this setup worth a drat, or should I move up to some aftermarket springs?

Bonus round: Recommend me a grippy semi-long lasting tire in 205/55/R14 that won't make me panic during the rain.

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


mobn posted:

I heartily recommend the Enkei RPF-1s. They 15s are fully 2 pounds lighter apiece than the lightest 14s that came stock and the size increase allows for fatter tires.
I should have mentioned that I'm rolling on these bad boys:

14/7 +38 IIRC. So buying 15's is a meh. I'll eventually plunk down the cash for the 6UL's. That is my wheel of dreams.

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Coolnezzz posted:

I may go to jail for this.
What?

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Coolnezzz posted:

you live and you learn.
I can't fault you for inexperience. So keep on keepin' on.

I for one would like to see a project thread on repairing your crash damage when you get the money.

Also hopefully that Harbor Freight job means you get to hook AI up with sweet deals on bargain tools.

brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


Baby Hitler posted:

Sorry to butt in again, but since the 323 GTX rear diff is the exact same unit that Mazda eventually put in the 1.6L NA cars, I wanted to know what a good limited slip diff if for those early ones. I'd want to buy used, and the whole pumpkin already set up. I have awd and drive hard primarily on gravel/dirt/sand, so lots of rear lockup isn't the biggest issue. Linearity is, however.

A recommendation on a unit and a hint for what sites have classifieds. I'm located in SoCal, if everyone didn't know already.
Unfortunately the 1.6's limited slip was a viscous differential, which means that unless you're buying new (do they even make them anymore?) it's an open diff.

In 1994 the Miata went to a Torsen LSD, which does fit the 1.6 pumpkin and is by far a superior LSD but may be absolutely useless if you're planning on going off-road.

I'm assuming that for your application, a clutch type LSD might be the best option. Check Miata.net and look under the forum sponsors. Usually there's small discounts for forum members there.

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brosef deluxe
Feb 22, 2007

"See Joe, this is what winning a meaningful game feels like"


I knew my hosed up top was gonna get me in trouble sometime.
drat thing has so many rattles and hack modifications, I am completely thinking about stripping the rollbar and wheels off of it and getting a cleaner NA or NB to start with.

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