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Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


I'm glad I'm secure in my heterosexuality because I'm coming down with Silver on Tan '02 Sport/Nardi package fever. I may be owning it by next weekend... And a few years from now it may be sporting my LS1.

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Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Just got home with the latest aquisition.



'00 with 50k miles, JR supercharger, roll bar, FM stage 2 suspension package. It was owned by a guy who used to race shifter carts and now races a gutted Miata in various classes.

Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Dec 5, 2010

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


If I was still in Minnesota I would never have even considered buying a Miata.

Extra Info: It also has a sweet-rear end Kenwood head unit, a manifold-back magnaflow exhaust, and the FM chassis brace kit. It has 205/50-15 Falkan Azenis tires and I'm not exactly sure what wheels they are, all they say is "Force F1-Light Racing Tuner" and they're dual-pattern. Enkei? (edit: wishful thinking, they're 'Drag DR-9', whatever they are.)

Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Dec 5, 2010

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


duep posted:

Since the last cold period my air bag light started flashing (defective s sensor allegedly). As the air bag in the first gen Miatas has a reputation of causing more injuries than preventing them anyways I decided to just disable all of it instead of getting it fixed (I live in Europe, so an air bag is not mandatory here). Now what I am wondering is if I have to remove that overlapping part of the safety belt which supposedly extends the belt (that's the part near the bottom mount, covered in a sleeve) as well so my pretty face does not hit the steering wheel in the event of an accident or if I'll be fine without tempering with it.

If it works correctly it should lock when it's quickly yanked, thus you shouldn't hit the wheel... full force anyway. The air bag is just a secondary layer of protection, the belt is what does most of the work. If you're that worried about your face you should fix the air bag system or get a harness though because if anything does happen to you it'll be your face on the wheel.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


HCs and NOX are a tad high, probably needs a cat soon. Mine was actually worse that that but it's got a supercharger.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


destructo posted:

gently caress no, unless Canadian prices are 250% of what we pay here.

Also I just picked up a KG Works cluster.


That is sweet. Just needs some Stewart Warner gauges.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


First Time Caller posted:

Got my '99 miata today. I love it but one complaint. The clutch feels massively long, travel wise. I'm 5'11" and to push it to the floor requires me to extend my leg all the way. I'm already close to the steering wheel :|

If the master is good, like mine, I agree that the travel is way too long. I was thinking of drilling a new hole in the pedal or getting a slightly larger master.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Phone posted:

You know that you can adjust the pedal, right?

Freeplay and height, yes. Throw, no.

Throw is the thorn in my thorax.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


First Time Caller posted:

I ran my '99 to empty finally today and went to fill up. Only filled 9 gallons before it clicked off. Fuel gauge read full. Bad gauge?

I have to fill my '00 up slowly. It'll click off after 5-6 gal then I have to fill the rest slow as hell up to about 9 gal total. I never go totally empty though. I have noticed that the gauge does seem pretty inaccurate, especially at the top and bottom 1/4s.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Apparently 00-02 needed to have the gas tank and filler neck replaced to stop the 'hard to fill' problem that mine has. Unfortunately it's not a recall so I'd have to pay through the rear end. Screw that.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


I bought my '00 for $7500. Supercharged, full Flyin' Miata suspension, 2.5" exhaust, roll bar, wheels and tires. 45,000 miles.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Phone posted:

gently caress you. RT-615s are a god awful tire.

I am starting to agree. Those were on my car when I bought it. Good enough grip. The thing that bugs me the most it that they do not make any noise whatsoever. Hard thru a corner- silent. Burnout, complete with a bit of smoke- silent. Locked up the brakes- silent. Maybe it's just my set but it's unnerving.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


New top went on today. Robbins Streamline, tinted glass window w/o defrost. Real fun job with a roll bar in there.

Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jun 13, 2011

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Gembolah posted:

Soft top question:

The plastic window is basically opaque and the zipper assembly is starting to fall apart on the OEM top of my 1993. I looked into a Robbins top and the local installer charges ~900 for the top and install.

1) Is this a reasonable price for a top + install? I don't really want to spend this much money on it.
2) Could I buy + install a top myself? I was looking on ebay and I saw this. I have no clue whether these tops are good or not, but the seller has good feedback.
3) Is there another solution that I'm not seeing, like repairing the top?

I just installed my own. I'm a professional mechanic so I wasn't scared of it or anything but it was kind of a pain. If you don't have a rollbar and you remove the seats first it'd be as easy as it could be. I got the Robbins budget/streamline 1 seam vinyl top with glass for just over $300. If you have tools and at least some kind of mechanical aptitude you should be able to do it over a weekend.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Piano posted:

Pure sexiness.

This is what makes me want to do an Autokonexion hardtop or something.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Yeah, I know. I'd rather just get a stock type hardtop.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Coredump posted:

Well, MEV is making a kit that makes the Miata look like this:



http://www.mevltd.co.uk/mevx5_specs.htm

Too bad you lose your trunk. It's a decent approximation of a lotus though. Actually makes me think of a Fiero/Countach, except for this century.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Do any of you have an aftermarket seat? Are there NA/NB seats worth tracking down and swapping mine out? The seats in my '00 have got to be the shittiest seats I've ever had in a car.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


I guess if I'm going to do it I'll get some aftermarkets. I really want an increase in comfort and support for my 'spirited commute'.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


revmoo posted:

MSM seats are SUPER nice, but good luck tracking down a set.

Exactly. I guess I would even do Honda seats or something too. My problem with a lot of seats is that they were designed for universal butts, I have a Japanese guy's butt it seems. FD RX-7 seats I remember as being quite nice.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Mother Nature pulled a hit and run on me last month.

About a 40lb tree branch from 35ft up. Dented down the rear roof bow and put a 2" tear in the top where it meets the body under the window.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


I have the M45 and overdrive pulley on my 2000. All the pulley really seems to do is help it build boost a bit faster but it still peaks at 7 psi. I don't have HP numbers but I can tell you it's a vast improvement over stock... when it's cool. I'm currently working on adding underhood heat shielding, hood vents, CAI, and an intercooler. Fingers crossed.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


revmoo posted:

Flyin' Miata actually called me up to make sure that I got their downpipe installed properly. Talk about customer service!

Same here with my hood vents, got a voicemail. I almost want to call them back and thank them for calling.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


destructo posted:



I would never do that to mine but drat that is sweet.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Sten Freak posted:

Is it safe to leave the battery connected when using a float charger (cheap one linked in this thread a few pages back from HF)?

Yep, should be ok. We do it on half of our vehicles at work. If you plan on leaving the car alone for more than a month I'd disconnect it though.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


leica posted:

Got the Azenis mounted and alignment done to FM specs.....Wow what a difference, feels like a Miata should now

Exactly what I said when I test-drove mine before I bought it. My only other Miata experience was with a stock '91. They might as well be two different cars.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


dreesemonkey posted:

Anyone care to comment the likelihood of these being able to get out one of my seat bolts that's stripped?

Of course I have to find the hardest bolts on the car to have a stripped bolt head.

It's worth a shot. That type of extractor has the best chance of working.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


roadhead posted:

Its a 'L' shaped piece that points straight down, mounted underneath the "mouth" area.

It actually helps keep air from going under the car and into the 'mouth' and radiator. It's not worth worrying about unless you really want to pick one up at a junkyard or DIY one.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


FatCow posted:

Why not? Again why fix things that aren't failed. I'm not going to replace the entire brake system because of a defect in a seal on one part.

As a professional, I'd sell doing the master as well. If the slave is bad the master is in suspect shape. It's not that much more money. It really isn't that hard to do. It keeps you from having to come back in X miles with a bad master.

The only way I'd not do it is if time a/o money is way tight for some reason. If I had one bad front caliper I'd do both fronts. When I do a timing belt I do the water pump regardless.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008



Is the engine running and at normal temp here? The O2 displayed would be the first one in the exhaust and should be fluctuating.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Mezmerized Machine posted:

How has that affected your daily/city driving? I was thinking about putting a Flyin Miata suspension on my car, but I don't want to ruin it for when I'm driving to school or work.

I have the stage 2 on mine and it's not bad. It's tighter and the ride is a bit harsher but it's what you would expect for having higher spring rates. I drive mine daily with the anti-roll bars set high on front and middle on rear and the shocks all set on 4. It's a trackdayable 'street performance' type setup.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Sockington posted:

A local interior/trim shop should be able to put a small patch on this hole to keep water out, right?



I had a fallen tree limb leave a 3" cut in mine. I used Loctite Vinyl/Fabric/Plastic cement and a small patch cut from a black t-shirt as a backing. Put some masking tape on the outside and glue from the inside. I also had to wedge something up under my patch until it dried. It's been almost a year and it's perfect.

Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Sep 3, 2012

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


As long as it passes, don't waste brain cells trying to figure cali out. And for what it's worth; when I bought mine it looked like your second one and the smog I just did looks like your first one, so it can vary quite a bit normally anyway.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Personal experience tells me to tell you to clamp a piece of aluminum plate or angle in a vise, leaving a good bit sticking up/out, then hit it with a grinder. The god-awful noise that makes will penetrate the thickest walls.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Yaaayyy! Finally got a hardtop. And I got some '02 headlights and nose to upgrade the looks on my '00. But, yeah, you almost have to suck dick to get a drat hardtop these days.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Speaking of battery tie downs, I did this last week.

The 13 year old factory battery finally gave up so I replaced it with a BCI 47/90 that is a good bit wider and a bit taller and has a dedicated vent that hooked right up to the miata vent hose. It has 100 more cranking amps, is much more readily available, and was cheaper than the direct replacement. And the battery cover/trunk floor piece still lays right.

Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Dec 23, 2012

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


jpotts posted:

If you can suggest a kit that will net me comparable power, for around the price of an SR20 swap (~$1.5K), I'm all ears.

If you really want to do it then do it. Don't let anyone here stop you. But if you really are asking then here's my 2 cents; The 'turbo' people are right. You're also underestimating the hidden extra costs of doing an engine swap.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


I am going to be doing a turbo DSM ignition swap. All you need are the coils, connectors, and the ignition module. No megasquirt or dwell mods needed.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


My Robbins top worked on either NA or NB frame. There were only a couple small differences in installation in the instructions that centered around making the NA work more like an NB. The biggest difference that I could see was the positioning/mounting/attachment of the last cross bow above the rear window between NA-NB.

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Joe Mama
May 10, 2008


Second the 6UL. No nonsense 4x100 only, well made, variety of widths and finishes, reasonable price.



e: These are 15"x8" with 205/50 Yokohama S-Drives. Just a bit of stretch to help cornering and it looks a shitload better than the 6.5" rims that were on it before.

Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Sep 14, 2013

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