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Depowered steering rack: Love it. Hard as poo poo to turn when sitting still obviously but it's a nice step towards "go-kart". Also worth it to me to get rid of because I have the MP45 supercharger that runs off the same skinny rear end belt. Aftermarket forced induction: I love the extra midrange power the most. I wouldn't go back to N/A. It does have weird fuel issues and flat spots until it warms up though. I wish I could go with an aftermarket computer but CARB. Fuel tank not filling on NBs: Yes. I loving hate having to hold the nozzle straight up while filling it slowly. It still doesn't fill the same amount each time even doing that. e: If you ever consider doing a depowered rack; do it right. Remove the internal seal, plug all the ports, and weld the spool valve. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 5, 2016 |
# ¿ May 5, 2016 03:59 |
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 04:54 |
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I've been a Gates guy for a while now, but we do have a 2006 Silverado at work with 150k that gets beat to poo poo that still has the factory Dayco belt in great shape.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2016 01:45 |
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It looks like a regular NA viscous LSD to me. (Based on this link.) https://www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/
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# ¿ Mar 8, 2017 02:19 |
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Mine was great for 4 years untill I went full-time hardtop and sold it. Looked better than stock too.
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2017 00:47 |
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TurboDrizzle posted:Funny you should mention that, ive been offered a free blown 99-00 motor on a "get it out of my yard whatever" deal. Hard to beat that price. Christ. I'm going to sell my 2000 1.8 with an M45 on it. I was hoping to get at least some money for it. I guess I'll have to trade it for a broken bicycle and some used underwear.
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# ¿ Mar 30, 2017 03:05 |
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Rhyno posted:The noise isn't constant. I ran the car for 10 minutes and didn't get anything loud enough for the camera to pick up. I'm sure it will start up when I go for a drive but I can't leave the apartment until UPS shows up. I should have said this earlier but if the compressor pulley is going out it will make a noise with the AC off and then stop when the AC clutch is on. Off=pulley is spinning, On=compressor is spinning. Unless they are both bad at the same time. IMHO replace the idler pulleys and belt because they are relatively cheap and easy and because they will eventually need to be replaced anyway. Look for more expensive poo poo later. My Miata had the M45 supercharger that runs off the skinny 4 rib belt. OE type belts like Gates, etc. are the only ones that worked without noise, just the drat brand was enough of a factor. Actually, since I'm here, I don't know about your car in particular but at work we got a batch of Silverados that had a drat belt noise that ended up being that the factory didn't get the PS pulley 100% fully pressed on so it was out of line from the other pulleys a tiny bit. That's all it can take sometimes.
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# ¿ May 26, 2017 02:15 |
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Wow, that's weird. I'd have to have to be standing there in person to even know where to start. Doesn't really sound like a regular belt or pulley noise though.
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# ¿ May 27, 2017 00:23 |
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Niven posted:Does anyone have any experience with the energy suspension poly kits? I had the Prothane set. Loved it. Barely noticed any additional NVH but it felt like the suspension was much more planted and precise. I had the poly diff bushings in for a grand total of one day, loving horrible.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2017 05:06 |
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In my 2000 the poly diff mounts caused a steady vibration/droning when cruising that just bugged the crap out of me very quickly. I switched to the mazdaspeed mounts and it was perfect.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2017 00:48 |
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Shai-Hulud posted:Anyone got a picture of how the spare is secured on an NB? Or Information what kind of bolt is used? Mine is not secured at all. Theres just a round metal plate screwed into the bottom of the trunk with a short bolt and the spare is just lying on top of it. Im guessing this should hold down the spare but the bolt is way to short for that. Every other longer bolt i got lying around has a different thread than the short one though. Mine basically had a long M10-1.25 bolt with a big cup shaped washer.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2017 04:43 |
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The lip seals against the crank, which is the most important part. The body of the seal should be able to cover that. You could wipe a little bit of RTV on it when you put the new seal in if you really want to replace it again. It'll be fine unless the scratch is really bad.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2017 04:16 |
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Savington posted:Got my daily driver (2002 SE) to a dyno this week. Built motor, Trackspeed EFR6758 turbo system, Megasquirt MS3, GM D585 coils, and a big fuel system (ID1000s, flex fuel, Walbro 450-E85 pump, Fuelab FPR/filter, 30A relay). 400whp has been the goal for a long time, finally put all the pieces together and got the tune done. 452whp, 427wtq at 26psi with the injectors totally maxed out (96%dc). Dropped it back to 23psi where it made 415whp (lower lines) at 84%dc. Aren't you in California? How in the hell do you smog this thing?
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# ¿ Nov 12, 2017 21:02 |
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I never used my CC because the only comfortable spot to rest my foot was on the gas pedal.
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2018 02:45 |
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On my supercharged 2000 I had to thoroughly clean my throttle body on the regular. In hindsight I should have installed a drat PCV oil separator setup.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2018 04:40 |
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I had a VDO sender on mine. I think I got it as a kit from somewhere (FM?). All it needs is a BSP to NTP thread adapter and you have to add a wire and LED if you want an idiot light.
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2018 22:35 |
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The NB gauge actually works fine, you just don't have proper psi markings. The OE sender is what does the "manual idiot light" function. I reset the needle to "0 psi" by turning the key on and then popping the needle back on where I wanted 0 to be. If you want to know where exactly certain psi readings land on the gauge you'll have to hook up a manual gauge somewhere and compare. I made 0 be where the needle is almost resting against the stop pin. As long as it's reading in the middle somewhere it was good enough for me. The needle moves fine like any 0-80 psi gauge would.
Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Mar 19, 2018 |
# ¿ Mar 19, 2018 02:35 |
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I think it was talked about earlier in the thread but to anyone considering it: DO NOT put poly diff bushings in a daily or pleasure driven car. It will drive you insane. I had Mazdaspeed engine and diff mounts in mine, perfect.
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2018 05:49 |
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Larrymer posted:NB shock mounts will go on an NA and are better for some reason. It's been too long for me to remember why. More travel.
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# ¿ May 14, 2018 00:00 |
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BloodBag posted:If any goons have a snugtop hardtop and can't find latch hardware, I've discovered who made it. The hardtop I used to have was a Snugtop. I ditched those janky latches and made plates to bolt the top on. Those eberhard latches were never meant for the loads and connection points they were being used on.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2018 00:31 |
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Rhyno posted:Well poo poo. Doesn't look like I can pop the dash out without removing the airbag from the passenger side. Not really in the mood to futz with that so I will be experimenting with taping off the interior of the car to paint it in place. If you haven't already just disconnect the battery or pull the fuse and wait 10-15 minutes first. But yeah, airbags aren't really that special otherwise.
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2018 07:49 |
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mcgreenvegtables posted:My 2003's A/C is short cycling, about 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off. Cant keep up in 90+ heat. Seems like the passenger side radiator fan isn't coming on at all, which is supposed to be the one that comes on with the AC system according to the internet. So I'm thinking fan, relay, or electronics. What are the steps to diagnose whats broken? The fan is the problem here. "Fan" fuse feeds another "AC Fan"? fuse. The fan motor itself may be bad or may not be getting a ground. "Engine" fuse powers the relay, ECM activates it. The relay itself may be bad. If you can, use some wires to put power to the fan directly, you'll know right away if the fan motor is shot. Also start it up, put the AC on, and check for power and ground at the fan plug. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Sep 2, 2018 |
# ¿ Sep 2, 2018 20:30 |
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Sweet. Promotional t-shirts maximize Jinba-Ittai in my pants.
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2019 04:39 |
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Google m16x1.5 plug or drain plug. It's a very common oil drain plug size.
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# ¿ May 7, 2019 03:43 |
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If it has an LS/LT swap, then hells yes.
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# ¿ Oct 5, 2019 03:47 |
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Bent valve, crusty valve guide, jacked bearing surfaces. You'd have to at least pull the cam out.
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2019 07:01 |
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Nice blue. Looks like it'll be waaay better that Donut's low buck 350Z . Of course you're not using decade old Plastidip...
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2020 05:03 |
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Diametunim posted:Changing ball joints is the devil. I kid you not this is the rusult of roughly 8 hours in the garage today. Those videos that show people tapping their ball joints out with 3 swift hits of a 3lbs hammer are loving liars. You could put a thin layer of anti-seize on them. To get the current ones out you should use a torch on the knuckle to expand the metal and break the grip. I've used air hammer pickle forks before as well. If the balljoints are good you can leave those together and just disconnect the sway bar and pull the big long upper arm bolts out when replacing shocks. That's what I always do on Miatas.
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# ¿ Mar 15, 2020 03:13 |
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Hell yeah do a thread! Post some condensed tidbits in here too.
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2020 21:54 |
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Phone posted:xidas? This. Xidas are the most easy-button choice out there. I have The GS model on the Volkzda and I love them already.
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# ¿ Jun 2, 2020 02:35 |
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Welcome to the DIY paint and body club. Looks better than the Volkzda so good job.
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# ¿ Sep 7, 2020 17:16 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Is there a list of containment seats somewhere that allow you to sit really low without the floor drop kit? If you want to go as low as possible without cutting out the rear seat mount cross piece or dropping the floor you have to go with an aluminum seat with a thin or no pad. As far as specific models IDK, I've only had brief experience with the Ultrashield Spec Miata seat.
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# ¿ Sep 11, 2020 17:41 |
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um excuse me posted:Temporary drain plug until it gets fixed proper. Grade 8 7/16-20. The one on the Koyo radiator is worse. Straight thread, o-ring flange, with a "2 flats on a rounded head" plug. Lame as poo poo. I ended up filing the head into a 13mm hex shape.
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2020 03:38 |
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Diametunim posted:General fuel line question. One of the female 5/16th's quick connect fuel line fittings that comes off the fuel tank and attaches to my fuel filter is leaking. I've already tried removing the connector and replacing the removable inner plastic retention clips that keep the connector fastened to barb on the fuel filter without any luck. There is an o-ring up in those fittings you should be able to replace.
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2020 05:01 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone know if the NB2 blue/white wire on the ABS module is the right one to switch for an ABS toggle? It seems to connect to a 10a fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box. Blue/Wh is 10A key-on power Green (pin C) is 20A battery power Wh/Red seems to be the main battery power, probably for the solenoids. Blue/Wh would probably be the one you want.
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2020 04:26 |
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Coredump posted:I disapprove of the Miata transmission fill plug. That is all. Truth. Why in the gently caress do the trans drain and diff fill and drain have flat, washer sealed surfaces and big hex plugs but the loving trans fill has to be pipe thread with a small rear end plug?
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2021 02:14 |
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Unless you're talking about 200TW fatties. I had 205 BFG Rivals on 8's and they were perfect. Just a slight stretch, which (according to GRM and some others) is supposed to be the way to get the best performance out of them. 205 on 8, 225 on 9, 245 on 10. I now have 225 Maxxis VR-1s on my 8's and the sidewall is perfectly vertical.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2021 04:08 |
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I'm always scared I'm going to pop the mounting tab off the windshield every time I go to adjust a new mirror that's all tight.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2021 01:53 |
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3 best things I did to my NB for the track before sacrificing it to the Volkzda; steel braided brake hoses, manual steering conversion, track seat. Like driving two different cars (same suspension, tires, brakes).
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# ¿ May 12, 2021 01:48 |
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Is this a 99-00 NB? The coil pack is know to take a crap as well.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2021 01:38 |
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 04:54 |
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I didn't really go into it but when I was stripping my Miata down for Volkzda but there was rust starting in some crevices and trap areas. 100% CA car too.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2021 23:59 |