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So I dropped my 2008 NC soft top off at the dealer to get LoJack installed and asked them to look at the rear defrost since it's not working. I pick up my car and the guy says that the defrost strips have been 'busted off of the glass' and they're not making contact anymore so that's why it's not working, something along the lines of the circuit not staying closed so electricity doesn't flow through the defroster. He says that the only way to get the defrost working is to replace the rear window with a new one, does this sound legit? I've looked on all kinds of Miata forums and can't seem to turn over anything related to what he said.
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Mar 17, 2013 05:48
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I'll have to take a look at it tomorrow when there is more light but nothing out of the ordinary that I could remember, I've got a ohm meter as well so I'll probe around the connections to see if everything is honkey dorey. The defrost light actually turns on and I can hear the relay 'click' on under the hood when I press the button so I know it's not those at least. I'm curious if it was accidentally disconnected from the harness that runs from the trunk.. If worse comes to worst the dealer might ask me to go half-sies on my deductible for my extended warranty which is only $100 out of pocket, not bad for a new rear window (glass one at that).
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Mar 17, 2013 06:18
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It was three parts; one parts salesmanship on my finance officer's part, one part great deal (got the entire LoJack package for $750 installed) and one part my paranoia of where I have to park my car for work. My work lot gets frequented by a lot of unsavory company during the day and more than once a co-worker's car has been broken into or stolen so I'm just covering my bases (also no, my work refuses to do anything about the break-ins or cover costs of vandalism). From what I understand NCs are not popular to steal, especially ones equipped with the advanced key-less entry like mine since it's too much work for your average car thief. Edit: /\/\ & \/\/ I got mine for almost $5k under blue book, it really is a great bargain right now to get a NC. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 19:15
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So I took a look at the car today, yeah the defrost is getting power and the element is scratched to gently caress so it's not conducting, bummer. I decided to clean the interior and adjust the clutch pedal while I was out and about, engages so much better now. Weather was perfect too so I got some top-down driving on my grocery/car wash run. I did notice lots of new rock chips on the front bumper after I washed it though, spring is brutal in the Pacific Northwest for road debris 
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Mar 19, 2013 01:57
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Did all the fluids on my NC today! I changed out the engine oil to Mobil 1 full synthetic with a Mobile 1 Extended Life filter, which Mobile 1 says is good for 15k miles with that combo...I'd push it to 7,500 MAX if I had to I don't know if I'd trust it to go over 10k really. I then put the ~magical~ $21.31/qt (gently caress me) FoMoCraft 75W-90 synthetic in the transmission and after careful consideration decided to go with the Lucas Oil 75W-90 synthetic in the differential. Definitely runs a lot smoother now. X-Post for pics - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3145227&perpage=40&pagenumber=176#post413829558
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Mar 27, 2013 09:31
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opengl128 posted:I like this cheaper method I wish I knew about this trick when I was doing the timing belt on my SO's Jeep 
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Mar 31, 2013 06:07
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Trip report on the ~magical~ FoMoCo Syntheic Tranny oil; after 300 miles the shifts when the car is warm are very noticably better, however it did nothing for cold shifts and it still kinda clunks when going 1 -> 2, it slots into 1st when the car is stopped much easier both warm and cold though so there's that. Overall I'm pretty happy with it but I might try something a little less $25/qt next time and see what happens.
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Apr 10, 2013 03:14
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iv46vi posted:Did you replace the fluid in the shifter turret as well? I heard it can help with smoother shifts. Didn't know about that, maybe when I replace the center console/cupholder I'll add the FoMoCo Syn to the turret and grease the pivot points to see if that helps, thanks for the tip! 8th-samurai posted:Any opinions on how these would look on a Miata? I was gonna hold out for a set of NB OEM 15s but these intrigue me.  Quick and dirty:  For $400? I'd go for it if I had a NA, hell the tires alone are $400+ if they're the O.E. Yokohama AVIDs. Can't find anything on other forums of M2 -> MX5 wheel swaps just MX5 -> M2 swaps (which look pretty good actually).
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Apr 11, 2013 09:33
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iv46vi posted:You can probably get away with cheaper stuff in there since really no high speed moving gears are involved. I still have 3/4 of a qt left over so I'll just use that instead of shelling out more, I'd imagine cheaper stuff would work just fine like you suggested though.
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Apr 11, 2013 19:08
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GOD IS BED posted:NC models start in 2006, afaik. NC models did actually start in 2005 (didn't know of the top of my head, had to Wikifu it - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_MX-5#Third_generation_.28NC.29) I run premium fuel and do mostly highway miles and I see about 28-29 on average. Got a freak 31mpg on one tank and it blew my mind, then again as I'm getting more and more comfortable with the limits of the car I am flogging it harder so my last couple tanks have been a bit lower, 27ish on average now. I did run a tank of regular for kicks and got like 25-26mpg with 80/20 hwy/city  Having Yokohama S.drives mounted probably doesn't help my mileage figures at all either, thinking about switching to Continental DWS when these wear out since I live in the Seattle area and am thinking it'd be wise to invest in a good all season tire for DD duties.  Sweet!
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Apr 18, 2013 04:40
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8th-samurai posted:I have terrible luck with potholes and nails and wouldn't feel comfortable having tires that I can't get easily locally and buying 5 ZIIs is more than I want to spend at the moment. If S Drives suck maybe I'll just grab a cheap set of Kumho ASTs to hold me over until next year or something when I will have a bit more money set aside for car upgrades. I don't need ultra high performance tires I just figured if I could afford them then why not? I have Falken Ziex 512s on there now and my only complaint is that they suck in the rain (and that the wheels the PO bought are ugly as sin, heavy, and all rashed up). My NC1 had brand new Yokohama S.drives mounted on them when I bought it, I live and commute 5 days/wk in the Seattle area too and see plenty of rain and never had an issue with them so far. I'm getting pretty good overall traction in both the wet and the dry and the tires are holding up well but like destructo said they're the bargain high performance tire and nothing to write home about. Haven't autocrossed or track day'd them yet so I have no experience to report about that either, I'd imagine they'd be adequate but you'd find the limit rather fast. Edit; Tire Rack customer surveys put the S.drives at a 8/10 for wet traction and 7.9/10 for hydroplane resistance, after 5K+ miles on my set I'd say that's a pretty fair rating. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 10:16 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 09:58
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I never said the S.drives were bad, I just never said they were great, that's all. For your situation and needs though I'd go with the Kumhos and either drive them until it's time for new tires or you can afford to mount them on lovely winter rims and have them as backup winter wheels. I wept when I saw that the same set of ASTs that for you goes for $264 before taxes and shipping is $356 for my tire size (205/45R17). Ah well. Also reading back on your previous post I have a set of Falken Ziex mounted on my Integra and they've done pretty admirable in the rain for lovely $55 tires, I honestly don't see how the ASTs will improve upon them since those are bargain basement all-season tires just like the Ziex, food for thought. You may want to consider getting them siped to see if that improves the Falkens as well as that will ultimately be the cheapest and least painful option for you at the moment. My co-worker ran siped Ziex on the Integra for about 6-7 years before he sold the car to me and he told me he never had an issue when it rained really hard or the occasional snow.
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May 23, 2013 13:00
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A wad of cash suddenly figures out how to burn a hole through your wallet. It's a strange phenomenon that occurs around Miatas  But seriously check for rust. Edit; yesterday during the heavy rain earlier into the evening I decided to find the limits of my S.drives on really wet surfaces, for science of course. I've come to the conclusion that as long as you're not driving like a dong they're fine but when they hit their limit they find it drat quick. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 01:28 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 28, 2013 22:09
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Confirming what Phone said though I took a look at the the wiki (yeah, I know it's wikipedia so YMMV) and oddly enough it says the NC1 was rated for 170HP/140tq with the 5sp and 6sp manuals and 158hp/140tq with the 6sp automatic. The NC2 which has the same 2.0L MZR is rated at 3HP less for 167hp/140tq with the manuals and the same 158hp/140tq for the automatic BUT the redline is raised by 500RPM to 7,200RPM in the manuals. Otherwise they are identical mechanically but note that you can only find an LSD equipped NC1/NC2 with the 6sp manual. Food for thought; depending on where you live you might want to spring for a PRHT model but I daily drive a 2008 GT-SE in Seattle with the soft top and have no complaints, the PRHT adds only 79lbs though so bravo Mazda engineers. IMO you should get a NC1 and have some leftover spending money to play with it, especially if you can land a GT with the 6sp and LSD, Zoom-Zoom indeed!
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Jun 16, 2013 08:54
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From what I've found with some quick Googlefu I see that the 09+ get forged internals because of the raised redline and the 2006-2008 are not, however 2008 Miatas received updated piston rings.
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Jun 17, 2013 13:02
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https://www.topsonline.com/department/Convertible_Tops_And_Accessories/Mazda This might also be a good website to check out for tops, they have the best pricing on NC tops from what I've researched so they might have the same deals for NA and NB tops. 1791apparel posted:Thanks everyone. I went ahead and picked up the 2006. Now there's 12.7K on the odometer Congrats!
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Jun 20, 2013 10:59
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You're not gonna get the OEM seats bolted to the floor without some custom fab on a floor mount, depending on the level of  and  you wanna spend will tell you your answer but if it's just for the driver side seat it's probably gonna be a better option to go with a aftermarket seat/mount combo versus butchering a mount to fit the OEM seat. If you plan on tracking it or competing with it do a bit of research to determine which setup to go with too so that way you don't have to spend even more $$$ down the road to make it work.
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Jun 21, 2013 22:32
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Look to KBB for a good head start since they will custom tailor the prices of vehicles to your area, after that factor in the condition and mileage plus extra goodies into the seller's asking price, if it's reasonable pull the trigger, if not talk them down or find something else. A big part of it is waiting for the right deal to come up and jumping on it before everyone else does.
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Jul 3, 2013 00:01
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Non-Engine chat; I finally got a wave back from another Miata owner! On the drive back home from work today a guy in a blue NA and I waved at each other. I've had my NC since February and it's the first time another Miata driver waved at me  It was on the 405 northbound through Bothell, it wasn't you was it 8th-samurai?
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Jul 5, 2013 21:53
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X-Post from the "What did you do to your ride today?" thread, thought you guys might like to see my handiwork too! I repaired my paint and windshield after a paint bucket lid hit me on the highway doing ~70ish, the top was down and I may or may not have thought I was going to die...click for BIG; Before  . After  . I also did all the glass in the car too while I was at it since I brought out an extra microfiber cloth  . Shiny! 
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Jul 12, 2013 22:38
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The rear defrost strip in my top is kaput and I have to get a whole new top as well, I'm putting it off as long as humanly possible and might even go the "Winter? > Hardtop" route instead.
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Jul 18, 2013 06:27
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In my NC I've noticed that I'm either too close to the pedals but at a perfect seat angle or pitched too far forward but perfect distance to the pedals which is strange since I'm only 5'9" (32" inseam)...some things you gotta live with though.
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Jul 22, 2013 02:40
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Korwen posted:Issues I'm just curious here but they checked the tie-rods and control arms when you aligned it, right? craig588 has some good suggestions with checking the rim heat, you could also try rotating the rims too since that's free and can tell you immediately if that's an issue. Truth be told I'd honestly be surprised if it is the steering rack but it's always a possibility. How'd the problem develop? How long have you had this issue? Did something lead to this issue (like flying into a parking spot too fast and hitting a tire on the curb)?
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Jul 24, 2013 04:01
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craig588 posted:That's unusual, I'm changing my vote to partially stuck parking brake. I think the front wheels should be slightly warmer than the rears in pretty much every situation, they do most of the braking and get the most of the heat. My Integra actually has this same issue right now, I'm going to agree with craig and say check the parking brake. Edit for context: My parking brake is the issue in my Integra because they have an integrated parking brake valve on the rear calipers (dunno if a NA is the same) and mine are frozen after sitting for 6+ months, I freed up the calipers and they work for stopping, sorta, but I need to get new ones now. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 00:36
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leica posted:Could you get NC seats to fit in a NA/NB? You can apparently, though I wouldn't really recommend that method unless you're getting them for pennies. I joked to the salesman when I bought my NC1 that it felt like sitting on cardboard cutouts and now I am finally agreeing with myself. I did a 6 hour through the twisties drive with a buddy a couple weekends back and barely made it, for "lower back strength reference" I'm not even halfway through my twenties yet and am of average height and build. It could be the fact that it's the leather and not the cloth seats, maybe there is more padding to be had there...
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Sep 1, 2013 01:47
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GOD IS BED posted:Ha, that's funny, because I was going to recommend he get some NC2 seats, because mine feel great almost always. I've taken a 6 day roadtrip in my '11 and my main complaint was getting into the low seat and not having any extra legroom to stretch out in (which are problems inherent to any MX-5 anyway). Of course, it's not as comfortable as my wife's Corolla for long trips; but again, different types of cars. Seat Chat v2.0 - Are your seats fabric? There may be a difference between the leather vs. fabric in terms of bolstering and padding.
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Sep 9, 2013 23:58
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Huh, same here. I might have to sit in a NC2 next time I'm near a Mazda dealership to see if they're any different. 
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Sep 10, 2013 21:14
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He's asking $300 over blue book but that isn't the end of the world if his aftermarket parts are solid, he says new tires and pads too so that's a + I'd be worried about the mileage though, the MS MX-5 is a performance model and as such people are probably not going to baby a car like that. It'd be worth a look if that's what you're interested in and have your favorite friendly and not-shady neighborhood mechanic take a look at it, my best guess is if he/she isn't willing to let you get a pre-purchase inspection there's probably something wrong with the car. I'm also always weary of stuff being sold by people who can't use syntax, but that's just me.
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Sep 27, 2013 12:11
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Just picked up a 2010 Grand touring PRHT with Suspension package. Anything i should know and what are the first mods/tweaks i should do You can comfortably got up to 235's on the stock rims, some have been known to put 255's on the stock rims (AutoX only though). Ford Mustang GT 05+ wheels fit on NC1/NC2 and add quite a bit of rubbery without rubbing. PRHT means no roll-bar really, sorry buddy. Suspension package is great because that nets you the LSD, the shocks and springs are really just extra. Speaking of LSDs the FoMoCo synthetic stuff is probably your goto when you change that every 35k, I've heard Royal Purple too but most people say go with Ford's juice. Some sway bars are a good mod to increase stiffness, depends on how you want to use the car though since with the suspension package it's already a rougher-than-normal ride. Great interior space maximizing ideas (NC1, don't know how it applies to the NC2) - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3089622/2008-mazda-miata-mx-5/page-5/ Also Goodwin Racing - http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda/MX5-Performance-Parts.html
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Sep 30, 2013 06:16
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I really liked being able to lock the car without worrying about the top being slashed (its parked on the street). is there not a genuine double hoop under those plastic covers pretending to be a roll bar? Yeah the PRHT is a bonus for that kind of stuff, the double hoops are really just a cautionary tale to be honest, here's a picture of the stock hoops sitting in front of a Goodwin Racing single bar;  If you're not planning on tracking it though I wouldn't be terribly concerned just don't drive like a dong and you'll be fine. The suspension bits like what have already been said are pretty un-inspired, which is surprising since they are Bilstiens, if you go with something like the Eibach Pro-Plus spring/ARB kit and slap some Koni Yellows on there you're light years ahead of stock at that point. You can always go big or go home with a full KW Coilover setup though but from your NA adventures it seems like you know what to do in this department. For reference my '08 GT-SE (suspension package as well) feels solidly planted when getting crazy but with just a little more body roll then I'd like. Since I'm not tracking it or AutoXing it for the foreseeable future I just don't mind it.
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Oct 1, 2013 18:28
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Uhh, since we're in Hardtop chat anybody know of a good resource for 2006+ Hardtops? The market sucks and eBay is useless, the PRHT really put a dent in RHTs for the NCs
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Oct 5, 2013 06:41
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Yay I'm no longer the only soft-top NC in the thread anymore Great looking NC dude, Sport/Touring/GT?
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Oct 10, 2013 04:32
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Rhyno posted:Foolishly looking at hard tops already. I was doing that the same day I bought mine. Then again my soft top's defrost doesn't work and I'd only really use a hardtop when the weather got bad enough to use the defrost. Win/Win. Great find! Does it have the Suspension Package/LSD? Saddle brown is such a pleasant interior color now that I've grown into it, it matches all my winter jackets too  Phone posted:Buy one second hand or from Mazdaspeed. Retail is like 3200, Mazdaspeed wants 2100 + 150 freight. Please pardon my ignorance but how does one go about ordering from Mazdaspeed for a NC hardtop?
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Oct 11, 2013 07:14
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These cars look so nice in blue and red Great find!
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Oct 31, 2013 10:00
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8th-snype posted:It could be as simple as 147,000 mile plugs and wires. Maybe a fuel filter? Cam sensor would give chugging throughout the rev range though, right? It sounds like his 'mechanic' is trying to take him to the cleaners for a typical tune-up; "I have no time to deal with the spark plug issues and taking it to a shop. I got quoted 250 for the fix." Could be as simple as a tune-up, probably would be able to squeeze the answer out of him, or ask his mechanic.
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Nov 23, 2013 09:34
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Rhyno posted:I haven't seen anything. I'm really on the fence right now, I was browsing pictures of Miatas with the saddle leather interior and now the matched top is starting to grow on me. I really wish I could see it in person before I make a choice. If you're talking about the matched interior/top and not the zip window I can say from experience that it took a few weeks but the saddle brown top grew on me as well. That being said I was planning on replacing it with a black top because it's horrid to maintain the saddle brown color properly and on a really bright day it washes out to a lighter brown and not nearly as sexy.
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Apr 14, 2014 08:13
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Nope, no such thing.
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Apr 15, 2014 05:38
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Center mount license with the Hello Kitty drift bandage covering the damage, tell the automotive world that you enjoy your vehicle and embrace it's flaws.
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May 7, 2014 05:02
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Sten Freak posted:Some outfit makes a front plate holder that utilizes the screw holes that the transit teeth occupied. $25 iirc. It also has hinges so it swings up freely when pushed but without having someone in front of me I really don't know how fast you have to go to have it swing up out of the way and am considering velcro or something to keep it out of the way when I'm pushing the car hard. E: My NA's thermostat does hit the 1:00 position at those times so it worries me a little. That disappearing plate idea seems awesome in theory but I feel as if you'd still be getting pulled over now and then for it.
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May 8, 2014 02:34
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 15:51 |
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Rhyno posted:I just recently discovered that the advanced keyless entry works on the trunk. That's like magic to me man. The was my favorite feature on my NC, gently caress fumbling for your keys when your hands are full.
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May 13, 2014 23:27
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