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Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
So after I wrecked my E30, I have come across a good deal ($4k) on an STS-S/CSP ready Miata...

Just how badly am I going to get my rear end handed to me by the other STS-S drivers (There's no way in hell I can afford slicks for CSP) while learning the handling differences between the Miata and the E30?

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Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
Okay okay okay, I knew that already, CSP is a freakin BITCH class in Dixie...

I'm just waiting for any drivers who've had both an E30 and a Miata to chime in about any handling differences they might have.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/cto/1609810300.html

What's everyone think?

Motor took two cranks to start up (but ran well, and the first crank was kinda halfhearted on his part anyway), top needs a new window, could probably use a new top anyway, light blowby, no gunk under the oil fill cap, rad has been replaced, no oil or coolant leaks, clean title.

Anything else I oughta check on?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Phone posted:

The torsen LSD helps if there is traction for both wheels.

Ice. Clutch LSD is the best option here methinks.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
So, my girly is looking into getting a Miata.

There's a nice silver NB ('01) at the local dealership with 60k for around $9000.

Decent price? Her POS Buick gets $5k there, I figure her getting a 5 year loan to build credit is a good idea.

How do the NB's compare to the NA's? I personally prefer the NA's (hidden headlights rule).

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
It looks like the robot from Flubber.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Frank Dillinger posted:

the ones in NAs do, which is why they tend to get bad valve ticking

Yeah, at AutoX my buddy's NA sounds like a sewing machine, but on the way back home it just hums.

I love my E30's eccentric adjusters :smug:

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Symphoric posted:

I'm having some overheating issues with my 1.6 NA. Water pump is newish, radiator doesn't seem to be leaking, new thermostat. The problem seems to be the fans kicking on late/cutting off erratically. I think it's safe to assume there's some electrical problem, and gently caress diagnosing electrical problems.

So my question is, is there really any compelling reason NOT to just rig the fans up to run constantly when the engine is running?

It could keep your temps LOWER than optimal. Thermostat oughta regulate that fairly well, however.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Tactical Bonnet posted:

Wouldn't you hear a vacuum leak all the time though?

My 95M makes the same high rpm squeal and I have been at a total loss as to what it could possibly be.

Slipping belt. Water pump or power steering. Check your tensions and pulley resistance.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Granite Octopus posted:

YOu could try simulating it at low speed by putting the air con on high, moving at very low speed and turning lock to lock (putting strain on the ac compressor and power steering system). Load up the electrical system as well by turning on the blower, high-beams, defroster etc

Nah, if the Alt was putting up that much resistance he'd hear...

wait a minute, the squealing could be the alternator itself at high speed. I know that when mine is charging the battery after not moving the car it makes a funky squealing noise for a bit. Granted, I have an E30 and not a Miata, but alternators are mostly the same. It might not be a belt at all!

GO makes some good points, try it out.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Russian Bear posted:

What's advantage of springs/shocks vs coilovers?

"Coilovers", in the aftermarket suspension lingo, refer to fully adjustable suspension parts that incorporate the shock/strut and spring assembly onto a single unit. The unit also incorporates an adjustable spring perch for changing ride height. This functionality is the main reason for getting coilover suspension, other than the fact that coilovers are usually higher quality than OEM.

Coilover suspension is any suspension that has the strut/shock centered within the spring on a single unit (such as a MacPherson Strut)

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

destructo posted:

My first car is a Miata and it's still not wrecked :colbert:

There's not enough power to properly wreck a Miata.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
Whenever I see an NA with the lights up at AutoX I think of angry frogs. That may just be because my good buddy drives a greenish-blue one, and drives the ever loving poo poo out of it.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

destructo posted:


I love the wheel style but the width is retarded :smith:. 15x10 et -10

Okay, seriously? That's more stretched than a retired pornstars vagina. I mean, drat.

I like slammed Miatas, but some goddamn taste is in order.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

destructo posted:

Which one of you is Nev :hf:

also,



GodDAMN :swoon:

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
I count 19 belt teeth between the marks at the top of the sprockets.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

crutt posted:



Fixed my valve cover gasket a few days ago. Glad thats overwith. Anyone want to buy this thing?

That is a beautiful color scheme. Bravo.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

streetlamp posted:

Got a new fun problem today. Feels like the rear end is locking up or something. At low speeds turning it feels like a welded diff, hopping and skipping around. While trying to turn at like a light at 5-10mph, it sounds like a midget is banging on something with a giant sledgehammer and the car bucks. It kinda feels like if you hit a giant pothole. At higher speeds it will randomly bang and feel like a pothole. Not going to drive the car anymore until I figure it out/fix it, I thought no way I was getting home.

Open diff or viscous? Something came loose.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Russian Bear posted:

Got out of class tonight, went to start the car and it wouldn't go in reverse. poo poo. Turned off the car, could shift through all the gears with the clutch in no problem, with the car on though it barely made it into any gear. I had to push my car back out of the parking spot (NAs are so light it's awesome) and managed to get into first and nurse through the gears. My commute back is all highway so the only problem was the speed bump on my street, almost stalled it. I still can't get reverse, the clutch pedal feels like I'm just pushing against the spring and there's no hydraulic pressure. It was dark when I got home so I'll check the reservoir for fluid tomorrow morning. I'm thinking it's the slave cylinder because there was no slipping or any signs of this earlier in the day and I'm pretty sure it's never been replaced. Car is a 94. Any other ideas?

(I'm praying to many gods that it's not something like a throwout bearing)

This exact thing happened to my buddy and I on the way back from AutoX on Sunday. It's the slave. Get a new one, bleed the system, enjoy your clutch returning to function.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
As long as the oil level is good, wind it out in 1 & 2 and call us in the morning. Miata's just tick, it's part of the charm.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Phone posted:

:saddowns:



So roll that bitch!

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

First Time Caller posted:

Any recommendations on aftermarket steering wheels? I have a lot of trouble with heel and toe since my knees brush under my wheel and its almost impossibly difficult.

I'm thinking a slightly smaller than stock wheel with a 1/2" spacer will solve the issue. That and the FM pedal extension.

I'm going to hop on this train and possibly hijack it.

I've got the same issue. The problem is, I'd like to keep running in STS where they don't allow you to remove the airbag. Is it possible to space out the stock wheel a bit? Does anyone think there'd be a safety issue with putting the airbag closer to me?

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Apr 28, 2011

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

dema posted:

Check engine light comes on with my NC when the tank is more then half full. Once it's less then about half full, the light goes away. Odd.

Maybe something with the vapor return system.

I think it's just your car telling you it's too heavy with a full tank of fuel :v:

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

SiB posted:

After about 3 years of wanting one, I finally got one (worth buying). The cars around here (northern alberta) are usually junk, 300,000+ km, or bashed to hell, or salvage titles...

So I ended up with a 1990 with 112,000km (70,000mile) car, decent shape, hard top, soft top is good condition. There is some body work needed on the left rear. It probably needs a timing belt and such but hey, it was only $2500.

Some photos.. http://sb911.imgur.com/1990_miata#7OCoP

That was a fuckin' steal, nice work. Shouldn't be too terribly hard to get a new quarter for it.

EDIT: gently caress, you got a hard top too? That's even more of a deal than I thought!

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 12:19 on May 3, 2011

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

destructo posted:

Man, even I think that car looks dumb, although the Trap finish panel is nice. I'm trying to decide between 225/45/15 RS3s @ $412 and wait, or get 205/50/15 Star Specs for $352 and get them now. Looks like I'd lose 0.3" in tread and 0.5" width per tire if I go with the Star Specs. I feel like since I have 15x8 wheels I ought to use them, but the extra cost and treadwear makes me think twice.

RS3's. You won't regret it. They are fuckin' amazing. Almost as good as the old school Azenis

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Phone posted:

gently caress you. RT-615s are a god awful tire.

The pre 615K Azenis.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

FatCow posted:

That would be the RT-615, you can tell because it doesn't have a 'K'.


e:
the 615Ks are more expensive than pretty much everything in Miata sizes.

I meant the ones before the 615's. Dunno where that K came from. :downs:

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Phone posted:

Ah yes, a tire that hasn't been made for at least 5 years

You want me to take a picture for you?

EDIT: Here's pictures.





And while I'm browsing



I have since fixed the absolutely horrible headlight cover fitment.

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 23:51 on May 13, 2011

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

aventari posted:

w00t track day on Friday :)





Gonna be a little cramped for the 4 hour drive.. each way

:stare:

That is some impressive packing. You didn't even have to use the deck.

Could you put the top up if you needed to?

Edit: Yeah, I don't see anything in the way. Goddamn.

What size wheels/tires?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Guinness posted:

Welp, I just don't think I can bring myself to sell my 95M. I took it out for a spin for the first time in 2 weeks since I bought my E46. I'm getting it detailed tomorrow, and I was doing it with intent to sell it this week, but my quick spin turned into almost 2 hours on several of my favorite roads. I just don't know that I can part with it. :3:

If you make the poor decision to sell it (don't) I know of a few good people who won't beat on it, rice it out, and generally really appreciate the car the way it deserves to be. PM me if you ever do decide to sell.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

aventari posted:

That sounds awesome. :)

Though my 99 could gain 20% better mileage in one fell swoop with a 6 speed that has a properly tall 6th gear. The freeway cruising RPM that Mazda gave us is just insanely high.

missed this:


the stock 14" wheels with 205/55-14 Nitto NT01's

I had wondered, because my 15x7's with the 225 Hankooks would NOT fit in the trunk and close all the way.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
As someone who just wrecked a Miata with a rollbar in it, getting rollbar padding works wonders. I rear ended someone at 40mph or so, airbags deployed, and I walked away.

Granted, I hit my head hard enough that I got knocked out and don't remember what happened, but I walked away and doctor pronounced me concussion-free.

Pad your rollbars or get a race seat.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Piano posted:



Mad NC.

Goddammit, who is that bitch with the umbrella. She's blocking the NA! :argh:

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Krakkles posted:

What is this part?


DSC_0003.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr

Slightly below center of image, bolting into the back of the hub assembly at the end of the LCA.

Closer photo:


DSC_0004.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr

Edit: If I'm reading my Haynes correctly, that's the balljoint. Followup question, assuming that's right: Good places to buy these online? Do they require any special tools to replace (they don't appear to). Edit 2: Found them on rockauto for $25/each.

Also: Steering rack when the balljoint broke looked like this:


IMAG0058 by Krakkles, on Flickr

But now it looks like this:


DSC_0001-2.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr

It appears to have hooked itself back up. Aside from replacing the sleeve and visually inspecting, is there anything I should be on the lookout for?

Bonus pic for camber fags:


IMAG0056 by Krakkles, on Flickr

Impressive mechanical failure! Go post this over here in the Horrible Mechanical Failures.

How on earth did that happen?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Grayham posted:

I'm going to go with the Star Specs. I don't think the R-S3s are made in 14" sizes.

They're not, but I like the R-S3's a lot more than the Dunlops.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Piano posted:

Look at all these high rollers and their hundred dollar tires.

$65 Yokohama S drives, half the price... some of the performance?

I got my 225/45-15 R-S3's for a mere $75 :smug:

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

willie_dee posted:

Ah, the metal rods seem to have stopped working the lock mechanism at the rear of the door, and whilst the door cards were easy to get off, how does one get to the locking mechanism?

Ah, the good old broken latch catch 22.

You can't fix the door latch without taking off the door panel, but you can't take off the door panel without a working latch.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

FatCow posted:

Heh, goons affording a NC Miata. Not for another 10 years bub.

Why would you want anything other than an NA in the first place?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
The master could be dead too, y'know.

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Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Phone posted:

I reset the local odometer when I filled up earlier in the day.

Post your best MPGs



~10mpg? What the gently caress? Are you running a turbo or something?

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