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Miata goons, how many of you would consider this miata a good deal? I ask because on Tuesday I bought a 99 NB (my first miata woohoo) with 110k on the ODO for $2800. The Miata I bought needs a good bit of TLC (Timing belt, misc seals, power steering fluid, coolant, shift turret maintenance). By the end of the day I'll post pics and a list of issues with the car so everyone can tell me how stupid I was to buy this thing. While parts are cheap and I'm happy to do the maintenance myself I'm 98% certain I couldn't fix the Miata I bought and add the extra goodies (wheels, tires, hardtop, suspension) for the extra $2,800 dollar difference between my Miata and the one I listed a CL link for. What do you guys think? Buy the car listed above and sell my Miata for what I paid or close to? My overall goal for the car is spirited weekend drives thought the hill country and the occasional (possibly frequent) track day and all things considered I'm thinking the car I linked is a better starting point. e: I'm going to look at the car tonight. What's wrong with me? Diametunim fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Nov 16, 2018 |
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Nov 16, 2018 17:32
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Suburban Dad posted:That car probably also needs a timing belt. None of those things you mentioned maintenance wise are expensive. But the top and good coils (not what he has, IMO) are $$$. If you really wanted those particular mods then buy it and sell yours. Oh mine is pretty hosed. For starters I noticed some rail damage under the driver side of the car. There's also a small hole in the car under the drivers seat I didn't originally notice. I texted the number in the ad, meeting the guy tonight. He said the car was owned by a Mazda master mechanic who passed down all of his receipts and maintenance books. Only reason he's selling is for a down payment on a low mileage Toyota Tacoma. We'll see how this turns out.
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Nov 16, 2018 19:02
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Unless yours has other totally hosed issues (paint, etc).
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Suburban Dad posted:That car probably also needs a timing belt. None of those things you mentioned maintenance wise are expensive. But the top and good coils (not what he has, IMO) are $$$. If you really wanted those particular mods then buy it and sell yours. Phone posted:the fact that he's listing $200 tires that are halfway through their usable lifecycle as a "1000 value", the harnesses with OEM seats, zero shots of the engine bay, plus all of the timing belt and general maintenance that will have to be inevitably done... with a price tag of $5600? You'll both be delighted to hear that I bought the car. Although I was able to talk the PO down a fair bit, I will still concede that I not a smart man. I now own two Miatas of questionable condition. Nothing like diving in head first right? Welcome to this train wreck. I'm having a blast with these cars while trying to absorb as much information on miata.net about them as possible. I haven't had time to really scrutinize the car very well, as far as I can tell though the car is straight other than needing the fluids changed and CAS O-ring replaced. We'll see how deep the hole I've dug is once my fluids come in. Now I've gotta figure out what to do with the other Miata in my driveway. All the necessary maintenance items come out to ~$600 on Moss Miata. I'm sure I could get the cost lower if I shopped around. Still not sure it's worth all the effort to make selling the car easier. I should probably just re-list the car as is. Here's an engine shot: 
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Nov 25, 2018 06:31
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Phone posted:that radiator is a ticking timebomb Suburban Dad posted:Grats? Not sure where you're at but I've always found this time of year awful to sell cars unless it's a winter beater. I wouldn't drop $600 on a car I intended on selling, though. FatCow posted:In all seriousness do not use race harnesses with OEM seats in a Miata. The straps will not stay on your shoulders properly. Use the 3 points until you have at least a race seat and HANS. No worries, I know the current setup isn't safe so I'm using the 3 points. The PO did provide me with a Planted seat bracket that was in the car at some point. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Nov 28, 2018 |
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Nov 28, 2018 04:26
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I'm in the middle of rebuilding the shifter bushings and boots. Anyone have tips for removing the two locator pins in the turret housing, should I just whack away with a hammer and punch until one comes lose? If I can't push a pin lose would separating the upper and lower turret housings to get better access to the pins be a good idea? e: These pins are the worst. I've tried using several punches and the vice grip/socket method to press these pins out and I can't get them to budge. I'm hoping some PB Blaster overnight will free these bastards up. e2: These loving dowel pins  . I'm about to take the upper turret housing to a machine shop. Hopefully somebody can press these bastards out.
Diametunim fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Dec 20, 2018 |
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Dec 16, 2018 14:51
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Don that lip looks good. Goons, do you have an opinion on top radiator replacements? I've done some reading on miata.net and the Miata turbo cooling thread. I'm debating between the super Miata cross flow rad, and a koyo down flow as replacements on the red *race car*. Car will see spirited back roads driving, auto cross and maybe the occasional members track day.
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Jan 1, 2019 05:53
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Unless anyone else can recommend another option Im about to pull the trigger and purchase a SuperMiata crossflow rad to replace the failing stock timebomb rad in my red 99 NB I'm also curious what other preventative maintenance I should tackle while I'm swapping out radiators. I'm planning on tackling: - Valve cover gasket - CAM seals - CAS Oring - timing belt (idlers, spring...ect) - front main seal - water pump + gaskets and orings - hose replacements (if necessary) - accessory belts What else am I missing, even if it's considered anal I'd like to take care of it while I can.
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Feb 5, 2019 17:23
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BloodBag posted:What made you want to buy the crossflow? If you're that concerned about cooling, why not add a reroute kit to the mix? You'll have the valve covers off and the CAS out so you'll have lots of room. To be honest, no real reason just trying to be a tad overkill. I'm also trying to think ahead because I've been day-dreaming about a turbo build if I blow this 1.8 up. There's no cooling re-route in my car currently so I'm just trying to be as efficient as possible. I'm sure a re-route would do me good but I haven't put it on the roadmap yet. The main uses for the car are spirited weekend driving, light / medium autocross. commuting during stop and go traffic in the wonderful central Texas heat and maybe the occasional track-day. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Feb 5, 2019 |
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Feb 5, 2019 22:15
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BloodBag posted:I drive my NA in a spirited fashion with autocrossing in East Texas heat and have a stock replacement radiator with the FM cooling fans and 75/25 water/coolant and will be putting the thermostat on the firewall side of the engine soon. Mine burns oil and stinks of coolant a bit in the cabin when I really get on it, but at least the temp needle doesn't move when I'm in grid anymore. Those fans are the business. When I blow up this old engine it's getting replaced with a craigslist one. Which FM cooling fans do you have? I know there are multiple "stages" but if I remember correctly they're just different models of SPAL fans, right? If that's the case and there's no need for a crossflow in my car, which replacement radiator would ya'll recommend? I'd like to avoid plastic end tanks if possible. The only two brands of radiator everybody seems to stock is the Mishimoto's and Koyo's and those seem to run around $240-300 or so.
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Feb 11, 2019 05:48
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I've got 2x water pumps, 2x timing belt kits, a clutch, brakes, and a radiator to install. This weekend should be interesting. I can't wait to see how many roadbumps I hit while changing all of this stuff out. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 05:33
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While I'm not a Miata expert by any means I think it's not worth $9500. If you could talk him down to $8000-7500 maybe it would be worth it? If my knowledge is correct the MSM isn't the greatest turbo platform and for his asking price you could buy a much better setup. Car definitely looks clean and well maintained for what it's worth. It's obviously been hammered on though. Post pictures if you do go make a bad decision. You won't regret it. I don't regret mine.
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Mar 6, 2019 05:17
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Anybody know what size the flats are on the cams for a 1.8 bp4w? The two crescent wrenches and a pair of vice grips to lock out the cams isn't working for me. My crescent wrenches must suck (they do, thanks harbor freight) because they keep spinning loose when I try and remove the cam gears. e: I've read 24mm on the intake and 28mm on the exhaust (maybe switched). can anybody else confirm? Diametunim fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Mar 9, 2019 |
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Mar 9, 2019 18:57
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Otteration posted:Fwiw, I used a couple of these, so don't remember the sizes: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-6...tag=googhydr-20 (locking crescent wrenches) I was able to get them loose! Thanks for the advice though, I'll have to check out your recommendation later. I was able to keep the wrenches from slipping by putting some extra pressure on the wrench head and using a breaker bar. I'm trying to be as methodical as possible. My cams moved 1 or 2 degrees but I'm not as worried now. I've read if the lobes of the cam for cyl 1 are at 3 o'clock (E) and 9'oclock (I) respectively you're pretty close. I sure as poo poo don't want to have to tear this thing down again if I get it wrong though. I'm trying to be as methodical as possible though since this is the most advanced maintenance I've one outside of building a 2 stroke engine on a JS550 and some valve adjustments on various motorcycles I've owned over the years. back to work, I'll post pictures of my victory or failure later.
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Mar 9, 2019 19:57
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If your gasket set doesn't include the front main seal, and cam seals I would throw those in as well. You could also probably replace the CAS Cap on the back of the exhaust valve as well. Also replace the water pump like everybody else said. When you do replace the pump save yourself a headache and move the PS pump out of the way to get better access to the two bolts that join the water pump with the little block that feeds the heater core line and main radiator line. gently caress those two bolts.
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Apr 16, 2019 23:26
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Speaking of maintenance does anybody happen to know what hardware I need to re-attach the following: Interior door-card / door panel (whatever it's called) Front fender fender liners Bumper (mines held on with zip ties) Also accepting Bose audio troubleshooting tips. The driver's side is out and just makes popping noises when the radio is on and the volume is up. I've come across Bose specific articles on miata.net but none that seem to detail my specific issue. I really have to get this green Miata cleaned up so I can sell it but man if I'm not in love with it. E: and don't be afraid to do the water pump. It's literally right there when you remove the timing belt and it's 6 bolts to free it up. It's a super easy change. If you're doing the timing belt. Do the water pump. E2: just don't be like me who started this process over a month ago and who's car is literally still sitting on Jack stands... I've gotten to the point where I sit in the driver seat an make noises. On the bright side when it comes off the stands it'll literally be good to go for another 100k or whatever that translates to on the track. Who am I kidding, I'm going to turn the key and it'll explode. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Apr 17, 2019 |
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Apr 17, 2019 03:07
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Finally got the car back together new radiator and all. Filled it with coolant and it's loving leaking from the thermostat housing. I used a new gasket and everything. Why why why why why. gently caress this gay earth. E: I just want to drive my slow racecar. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Apr 28, 2019 |
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Apr 28, 2019 05:44
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Wibla posted:I'm looking for a roll bar for my 10AE (glass window vinyl top, also have a hardtop), can buy from both US and UK as I live in Hard-dog is basically the go to name for rollbars in the Miata world as far as I know. I personally have the M2 bar in my car with a hard top and don't have any issues other than my head coming into contact with the top of the bar if I'm sitting in an upright position (I'm also somewhere between 6'2"-6'3" for what it's worth) https://www.flyinmiata.com/1990-05-hard-dog-sport-5632.html Install video: https://youtu.be/pLLzxB-KlfY
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May 29, 2019 20:31
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... any recommendations?
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Don Lapre posted:Rip you in a rear end collision We all have our own levels of acceptable risk. The bar being across my head is definitely sketchy. At the very least I've got SFI padding all across the bar and 9 times out of 10 I'm slouched so far down in the stock seat my head rests against the headrest. I need to find an aftermarket seat that will lower me further into the car while remaining tolerable on the road. E: buy a Miata. Do it. Parts are everywhere, the car is deadbeat simple, everything you need is on YouTube. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 05:13 on May 30, 2019 |
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May 30, 2019 05:11
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BloodBag posted:If you're in Houston I'll give you a deal on a 95M Out of curiosity what would you want for that 95' M? I'm in Austin and have always wanted an NA. On another note, anyone have any advice for removing the bracket mounted to the transmission that holds the rubber + hard line for the clutch slave cyl? I'm trying to put in a new steel line and remove the other bits but the bolts for the bracket are covered by part of the electrical harness and I cannot for the life of me get the harness to move. E: got that stupid bracket! Time to bleed the system. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 16:59
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Anyone have any recommendations for battery replacements that don't require modifications to the tray or tie down bar? Or should I just run to O'Rileys a pick up a generic replacement.
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Jul 1, 2019 04:21
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BloodBag posted:About $800 for the primer, paint, and clearcoat. It's all coming from a local ppg shop and so far it's spraying pretty well through the $70 harbor freight gun. I need to weld in the drivers side rocker panel and grind that and then I can really get going on this. I should post pics or maybe start a project thread... Do post pictures that blue is going to turn out beautiful. You must be a sadist though. I prepped and painted a Kawasaki JS550 back in high school with my dad and that is something I will never do again. I can't imagine prepping and painting an entire car, even if it is as small as a Miata.
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Aug 5, 2019 04:35
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Rhyno posted:The internet is unclear, do i need to use special moon coolant for my NC? Not an NC owner but I did a quick Google and it looks like you'll want to use any compatible FL-22 coolant or another coolant so long as it's silicate free. If it were me Id probably just do the standard distilled water + waterwetter and antifreeze. I copied the text below from miata.net which gives a little more information on what FL-22 is. "FL-22 is a Mazda-only substance. A post in a different Mazda forum says the bottle reads: "ethylene glycol based.... 55/45 mixture recommended..... developed to provide corrosion and rust protection.....boiling point 270 degrees, freezing point -47 degrees. Ingrediants: Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Water (7732-18-5), Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6), Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3), Proprietary Inhibitors (NJTSRN 217)"
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Aug 7, 2019 16:57
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If anyone is looking for a clean 10AE: https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/d/liberty-hill-99-miata-10th-anniversary/6950870665.html
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Aug 8, 2019 00:34
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Anybody have any advice for which racing seats fit best for somebody that's roughly 6'2 (tall n skinny)? I'm looking for something with a taller headrest over stock so my head doesnt rest against the roll bar. Ideally I'd like to drop an inch or so in the car as well so I don't have to do the gangster lean anymore. Is this possible without modifying the pan / tunnel of the car? I've heard positive things about the lotus exiege seats but locating a pair of those is going to be work.
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Aug 17, 2019 22:12
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Elysium posted:Clutch went soft to the floor today as I was driving to work, so I guess time to replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder? Should I replace the Master as well? Is it worth it to get the braided clutch line to replace the rubber one while I'm at it? I would replace both for peace of mind but ultimately it's up to you. I've read the masters fail less often than the slaves but when the part is $20 who cares? Treasure Cost Miata sells an overhaul kit for ~50 that includes exceedy master, slave, and a braided line that will replace the secondary coiled Hardline that attaches to the slave.
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Sep 18, 2019 18:22
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Had an older lady in a Jaguar decide she wanted to be part of my Miata last night. Sigh. 
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Sep 28, 2019 17:13
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GD_American posted:How'd she react? She was actually super apologetic about it and I could tell she was upset so I wasn't mad at all. Plus it's just a little paint correction that needs to be done. I've got a claim open with her insurance and we'll see what happens. I just want the wheel replaced and the paint corrected. It doesn't look like the quarter panel has any dents in it where she made contact with me but I honestly can't tell. Applebees Appetizer posted:It's because they're small and low and people are blind and can't see them. I've never had a car backed into more than my Miatas. Fingers crossed that never happens to me but I wouldn't be surprised.
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Oct 1, 2019 17:53
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ethanol posted:When I got backed into in a parking lot while I was stopped, the guy apologized at my window and wanted to give me a check. I told him I thought it best to go through insurance. He then denied responsibility on the phone with his insurance company and told them i was speeding through the lot, not stopped. I claimed on my collision policy, wrote a letter to my insurance company describing the incident in excruciating detail with photos and I got a check from his insurance 6 months later. Anyways you never know what people are going to think about when they get home. No doubt. I had the something similar to me happen last time I was in an accident. Teenager came in way too hot trying to squeeze into an on-ramp, ended up slammed into the person in front of me at the time and then I ran into the kid. Kid admitted fault to both parties at the scene but at the end of the day I was found at fault for running into him. But that time isn't now and I just got off with the insurance adjuster and they're going to be covering the damages..woohoo.
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Oct 1, 2019 20:28
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All of you people talking about NDs and I'm over here just wishing I fit in one. 
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Oct 4, 2019 02:38
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BloodBag posted:NA is the roomiest miata by far. The NB, you sit too high, the NC is tight as hell and the ND is pretty much the same. Embrace the deathtrap NA. Had I known I would have picked up an NA first before buying two NBs. I'm still really waiting for a clean NA to show up in the Austin area that I can turn into my fun DD. As much as I love my red NB it's just not much fun to just drive. Maybe raising it an inch or two and getting rid of the junk Tien suspension would change that a bit. That's surprising to hear the NC is tight. I've always heard it referred to as one of the roomiest miatas. Russian Bear posted:In which way don't you fit? I'd have to sit in one again to remember exactly where my hangup was but if I remember correctly my knees were against the dash and my hair was touching the roof which makes any chance of fitting with a helmet on pretty much non-existent. For what it's worth I'm 6'2"-6'-3" 200lbs Diametunim fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Oct 4, 2019 |
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Oct 4, 2019 17:11
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Installed a pair of cravenspeed door bushings today. No. More. Door. Rattles. Worth it.
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Oct 22, 2019 19:46
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I believe the RB header is pretty much the defacto standard as far as I'm aware.
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Nov 18, 2019 00:48
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I'm not very experienced with head related issues but if you're saying the intake cam requires substantially more effort to turn over compared to the exhaust the exhaust cam I would begin looking at the bearings as well. Is there any possibility the valve shim clearances on the intake side are out of spec as well?
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Dec 20, 2019 20:25
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Enjoy these bad photos my brother took of me out at Driveway Austin during their Christmas Time Attack. I really need to put a race seat in this thing. Nothing like having to scrunch my entire body to fit with a helmet on.    E: best time of the day was 42 and some change. I can't drive. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 01:35
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underage at the vape shop posted:Got what I think is a fuel problem with my Miata. It's fine on the first start, but say if I drive to the shops, when I go to drive home it will struggle to start and once it does it struggles to stay running. I got told maybe an injector gets stuck open but idk. If I give it throttle it will keep running, poorly, down on power, but if I don't it will quickly die Throwing out some quick ideas. 1) Fuel pressure regulator issue or vapor lock issues when the car gets hot? I had a problem with similar symptoms on my 1999 Honda Accord V6. Car would start cold and run fine then after sitting hot for 20-30 minutes the car would become hard to to start and wouldn't stay running unless I gave it extra gas for a 30-45 second period then it would run fine. This idea doesn't match up with your down on power during the drive home though. 2) Fuel Filter? Is it possible there's sediment blocking the flow through the filter after the car has been running for an extended period of time. When the car is off and sitting for a while it's possible the sediment could settle out. 3) How many miles are on the car and when is the last time you've had the valves adjusted? My hunch on this one is that when the car gets hot the valve clearances tighten up out of spec which would cause your poor running conditions at temperature. When the car sits for a little while the valves contract and the clearances loosen up. 4) Coolant sensor issues? I believe I read on SuperMiata that if the Miata ECU believes the car is running hot it will begin to retard the timing on the motor to the point of poor performance.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:38
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Dadliest Worrier posted:I’m missing 2nd-3rd shifts in my NB when I drive fast. I assumed that the problem is I’m a bad idiot person, and I’m not ruling that out, but I’m also reading that this may be a symptom of failing motor mounts. If that turns out to be true, is there any reason not to spend $15 extra for stiffer MazdaSpeed mounts? I've never run the Mazda speed comp mounts but supermiata and flying Miata both say the'll stiffen things up by 30% or so but on the flip side they'll stay stiff for roughly a year (milage not specified) so take that as you will. You'll most definitely notice an NHV increase. If you're missing shifts while cornering then your motor mounts could use some help. If you're missing shifts while in a straight line then your mounts are definitely hosed.
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Jan 1, 2020 10:05
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Let me know how it goes! I've been debating making the switch myself as well.
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Jan 1, 2020 20:10
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Miata reunion is at Road Atlanta this year! Woohoo
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Jan 7, 2020 04:46
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Bit the bullet and decided to ditch the awful Tien Street Basis coilovers that are currently on my NB. I'm fuckin' pumped for these. I'm sure I will regret the 800/500 spring rates on these things but thankfully it's not my DD.   Also installed a Cobalt Stainless Steel midpipe I got for free in a deal from a local Miata partout shop. Install was a surprising brease Doesn't make the car sound any different at all which is a little sad but it looks pretty good. Eventually it'll all match when I decide to go looking for a set of RB headers and fujitsubo exhaust. 
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Jan 26, 2020 01:40
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I went to the local drivers education track here in Austin and shaved 2 seconds of my personal best. Down to 40 seconds around the track. After getting home from the track I decided to deep clean the car for th first time after owning it for a year and some change. I was on the fence about it because it's effort but I'm glad I did. I found some concerning things id like some advice on fixing. First, Does anyone have a guide for rebuilding the power steering rack? I found a lot of guides regarding de-powering the rack but nothing on rebuilding. I suppose a depower guide could be used to reference a rebuild. Also, is it worth it? Or should I pull it from the car and send it to somebody? I ask because I believe the rack is leaking. Second, I think I'm bottoming out the car around the track. It's pretty evident looking at some of the fenders in the rear, the tires have definitely been catching. I'll post photos later but the rear fenders are crunched and the paint has chipped away. What can I do to prevent this from occuring or the car from rusting where the paint has chipped away? I also believe I'm dragging frame rails or pinch weld's. Is there anything I can do to fix the frame rails and pinch weld's?
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Feb 3, 2020 01:03
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