|
Go big or go home. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfmTDGDNMgc&feature=related I think these things had something like a 5 mile range.
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2009 16:24
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 06:01 |
|
|
durr
FatCow fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Dec 15, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Dec 15, 2009 04:33
|
|
|
Shlomo Palestein posted:The worry is overloading the one ramp with a great deal more weight than it should have to take. That and I suppose worries about it slipping under the lateral stresses introduced by canting the car on it a bit. And the fact that you basically have no wheel chocks on the wheels. Ask Phone how that turned out for him this weekend.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2010 23:07
|
|
|
Beach Bum posted:Just how badly am I going to get my rear end handed to me by the other STS-S drivers (There's no way in hell I can afford slicks for CSP) while learning the handling differences between the Miata and the E30? You'll get your rear end kick about as hard as me going from a 2005 FS GTO to a 1997 CSP Miata. Both on Street tires.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2010 03:52
|
|
|
I guess I should mention that I actually bought a Miata. 1997 5sp with I think 95k on it. Here is how it currently sits. It could use some cosmetic love but it's mechanically sound.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2010 03:18
|
|
|
You can see the shadow of his roll bar in the first few seconds. I don't know if any tracks let convertibles on without one, it's a huge liability.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2010 23:35
|
|
|
Guinness posted:Really? Isn't one of the key features of an LSD to transfer power away from the wheel with no traction? Wikipedia says it best. A torsen LSD can only multiply available traction. 0 * <a huge number> = 0
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2010 03:06
|
|
|
There is a $50 mail in rebate on the Z1s. They are awesome tires as well. http://www.tirerack.com/specialoffers/details.jsp?promoID=D015
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2010 17:21
|
|
|
How much do you want to spend? Craigslist for OEM wheels.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2010 21:19
|
|
|
Those plug wires are likely OEM. They should be NGK brand.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 21, 2010 15:16
|
|
|
1.8L NA. Any ideas on a clunk from the front end on HARD direction changes? (Think slalom) At first I thought it was the sway bar contacting the upper control arm since one side was resting on the control arm. I replaced the sway bar ends with shorter ones and the noise remains. I'm thinking it's likely the tie rod ends now. I can hear some noise when I turn the wheel back and forth a few degrees when the car is resting, not sure if that is normal play or a worn tie rod end. The suspension otherwise feels tight, doesn't dance around on the highway, no shimmy/shakes/etc. Any ideas before I start replacing the front suspension piece by piece?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2010 03:58
|
|
|
Were you removing the dipstick, cleaning it off, putting it back in for a few seconds then reading it? If you don't clean it off after driving you'll get a somewhat random reading. The likely place it went is out the tailpipe. From what I've seen at autocross, almost all Miatas burn oil at high RPMs.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2010 15:20
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:Just so I understand this, the shocks aren't considered struts because they don't support the car, they just act as dampers? That is, the car has a double wishbone suspension instead of a strut-type suspension? The stock shocks on the car are coil overs (spring coil over shock). They aren't struts because they ONLY hold the weight of the car, not any sideways forces from turning. I'm replacing the suspension bushings on my 97. I guess I'll find the source of the clunk while I disassemble/reassemble everything.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2010 22:29
|
|
|
Blaise posted:I just ordered a full set of energy bushings and 8 new cam bolts. Looks like tuesday-thursday evenings are gonna be miata surgery nights. Anything else I should replace now that I really have everything apart? Ball joints, upper control arms, shocks, springs? I just did this job. The grease is the worst thing I've dealt with on a car. I still have to degrease all the tools I used on the job. Wear gloves and for the love of god don't touch your hair/face. I put zerk fittings in at the same time, the extra work was trivial once you have everything apart. I also used the HF balljoint tool, every bushing came out easily, did the whole job with a 1/2" ratchet, occasionally used a jack handle as a cheater. (~100k mi `97). http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W5215/ using the 1/4" fittings I had plenty of zerks. I did my tie rod ends at the same time because the boots were ripped.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2010 16:19
|
|
|
A Magnum R/T with the towing package is good to almost 4k. You should be able to find something. Just keep in mind that you want your tow car to weigh more than what it's towing. Otherwise you get strange "wag the dog" type handling issues.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2010 19:03
|
|
|
Blaise posted:Also, why are you doing the bushings? Mine were in great shape ('92, 84k miles), and it's been enough of a pain so far that I really hate myself for doing it. I literaly gave myself 2nd degree burns when a bit of melted rubber flew onto my arm between my gloves and sweater. I vote save your money and spend it on an extra trackday.. Get the HF ball joint 3 in 1 tool for this. I did the whole job with that and a 1/2" ratchet. Didn't need any heat or air (Air would have made it much faster though. A bench vise makes putting the new bushings in super easy. I also went ahead and stuck in zerk fittings while I had everything apart, totally worth it. I think I have a link on the last page to summit for a kit that has all the fittings you'd need. I got mine from http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Mazda+MX5+1997. Count all your parts, Energy is notorious for putting in the wrong parts. It came to $170 for the control arm bushings. I didn't do diff(  ) or sway bar(aftermarket).
FatCow fucked around with this message at 22:28 on May 24, 2010 |
|
#
¿
May 24, 2010 22:25
|
|
|
lokk posted:What's a good coilover or shock/spring combo for this that will drive smooth enough for a daily driver? How much do you want to spend?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2010 18:00
|
|
|
Lots of NA Miatas show up on Raleigh's Craigslist as well.lokk posted:Anywhere from $500-$800 preferably. I saw pictures on this thread of the FM Stage 2 suspension package, but the drop didn't look low enough, still saw a big deal of wheel gap. Maybe I'm bias because my last car was an RSX lowered 2.25", but the stock wheel gap on this '06 is HUUUUUUUUUGE. You're likely going to want lowering springs that are close to stock rates. I wouldn't try to replace the springs and shocks at that price point. I don't know any specifics for NCs.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2010 21:41
|
|
|
Here is me running 2:15 around the same track. Phone was doing it ~2:10 i think. ;_; You can see his car in the distance at some points. You can see him entering the pits towards the end. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmu7KNhsPzE&fmt=22 My clutch is doing what I think aventari is describing. FatCow fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Jun 21, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2010 17:48
|
|
|
I think I may need new motor mounts. 2nd gear left turn:  2nd gear right turn: 
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2010 16:36
|
|
|
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:Hi guys. I just put my Miata up for sale. If you are interested, there are more details here/ How streetable is this? Whenever I have an excuse to separate my engine and transmission I want to put in a lightweight flywheel/lightweight clutch. I pretty much only drive the car to driving events but it's not quite a trailer queen yet.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2010 18:25
|
|
|
Piano posted:Today I heard a rattle in my dashboard(?) and I can't figure out what exactly it is causing it. I think it's coming from the right side of the gauge hood, above the keys. Only rattles above 50mph-ish... difficult to inspect it at that speed... Anyone ever have this before wanna tell me what it was so I don't kill myself trying to find it? What year? If it's a NA it could be the speedo cable.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2010 04:19
|
|
|
I need to do this before I replace my motor mounts. However the fact that my exhaust almost broke in two right after the cat makes me think they are shot as well.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2010 16:02
|
|
|
Happy (Belated) 20th Miata. http://www.autoweek.com/article/20100719/CARNEWS/100719872
|
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2010 02:48
|
|
|
On a 1997 can you re-use the outboard lap belt bosses for a 6 point harness? I know the inboard side you need to drip/backing plate and the same for the sub belts.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2010 22:55
|
|
|
Is there a good tire site that will give us an idea of what is available? Hankook RS-3, Bridgestone RE-11, Dunlop Z1 Star Spec or Kuhmo XS are your top choices for autocross street tires. Although I'm not sure what you have available there.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2010 02:54
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure brake fluid melts teflon tape. If it isn't sealing right I would either replace the caliper or rethread for a bigger bleeder. You really don't want to be loving around with hacking your brakes together.
FatCow fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Aug 7, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2010 16:45
|
|
|
It would work as a CSP car. You'd be replacing the interior with a 90-91 car anyway but having the 1.8L harness and still being OBD-I is nice.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 9, 2010 13:09
|
|
|
CSP lets you remove the engine and replace it with one from another NA or NB. The popular ones are `99 or `01 engines. ODB-II just complicates things and makes the emissions harder to get right enough to stay street legal. A lot of it depends on your state as well. Being ODB-I in NC would exclude the car from all emissions testing and the yearly emissions becomes a check the lights and honk the horn test. What's nice about Miatas is that there are tons of parts around for the cars and a decent used parts market. If you want a 100% AX Miata and don't want to get into a modified class just get an early NB and run in CS. If you events are far away you're going to want to stay in a stock class. (Depending on how much prep you want to do) STR means stiff springs and race buckets.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 9, 2010 15:00
|
|
|
Correct it is an ES car.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 9, 2010 15:35
|
|
|
Just finished rough installing my seats and harnesses. Going to have them inspected by the local shop on Friday then I'll go back and polish everything up.   In case you were wondering how horrible it is to do this. The answer is very.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 12, 2010 03:47
|
|
|
It is a long run almost 500mm but not quite. I may have to cross the belts behind the seat. I'm bringing it to a local shop to double check my work before I hit a track with it. There are a couple of parts I'm unsure if they are totally correct. The angle of the shot makes it look like it's a steep angle. It's < 20deg. [edit] Drivers side is a 2" drop over 16". Passenger's side is pretty close to level. FatCow fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Aug 12, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Aug 12, 2010 05:31
|
|
|
So, this weekend I done blew up my clutch at VIR. Had problems shifting 4->3 for T1 then couldn't get it back into 4th at all at the bridge straight. Eventually forced it into 3rd in the esses then packed it up for the day. This was early in the session so I don't think there was a chance to overheat anything. Right now everyone's thinking it's your slave cylinder and stop trying to showing off to the internet about doing a track day. Here are the symptoms. Clutch grabs about an inch off the floor, holds fine. Makes an awful grinding sound while the clutch is slipping and makes a sound that I thought was fluid hitting the bell housing but I haven't lost any so I'm not sure what it is. It's a bit of a "woosh" sound when the car accelerates the first time after shifting. No noise while clutch is fully down. Clutch seems to fully engage though and it will stay engaged for at least a minute which makes me doubt slave cylinder lack of noise while disengaged makes me doubt pilot bearing. Any ideas? I'm going to replace the slave for the poo poo of it then see how things look. Hopefully I don't have to break the engine and trans apart.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2010 03:15
|
|
|
The ones with adjustable perches let you corner balance the car. This is meaningless for you. A set of sway bars would likely be your best bang for the buck.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2010 22:40
|
|
|
Baby Hitler posted:Does the VVT make that big of a difference? The VVT on the Miata is a strong term for a single changeover intake, its no more complicated than the earliest of Honda systems 23-odd years ago. It's not single changeover, it's infinitely adjustable. The stock ECU doesn't really do much with it. I'm bit crunched for time at work now but look up CSP Miatas. They spend a lot of time dicking around with VVT to get up to 160-180WHP with stock internals other than a 1mm overbore/stock compression pistons. Too lazy to rehost but here is full advance vs full retard. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=276072 On a turbo motor but you get the same effect n/a. [edit] This one is basicaly tuned VVT vs no VVT same motor, different ECU. http://www.flyinmiata.com/uploaded/images/hydra%20vs%20tec%20vvt%20off.jpg FatCow fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Sep 1, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Sep 1, 2010 18:27
|
|
|
What's all of this about VVT? Now to decide how much more I want to spend.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2010 23:06
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Does the NB dipstick fit the NA pan / dipstick tube combo? It doesn't seem to suffer the broken-handle malady of every NA. That's a NB motor. I just checked and the NB dipstick is about 1/2 an inch shorter.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2010 19:54
|
|
|
Anyone have recommendations for a clutch/flywheel for a pure track/autox car (trailer queen)? I'm looking at the 1.6L Fidanza flywheel, not sure on the clutch. Anyone know what happened with Fidanza? You used to be able to buy their stuff at a lot more places (949racing), the most reputable I see now is Jegs. http://www.jegs.com/i/Fidanza/383/161161/10002/-1?parentProductId=755906 I'm a bit at a loss about the clutch. Are the disadvantages of not having a sprung clutch relevant for a car that isn't daily driven? I'm thinking the 4 puck ACT clutch. It's good to 250 ft*lbs which is more than I'll likely ever make with this motor. http://www.gomiata.com/actmipe4padr.html or the F1 racing clutch. Cheap as gently caress and 215 ft*lbs is good enough. Only thing I can guess about this one is that it's heavy. No weight listed but another model by the same manufacturer is listed as heavier than stock. http://949racing.com/F1-clutch-miata-stage-3.aspx Finding weights on these guys is a bit difficult.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2010 00:08
|
|
|
Pulled the trigger on the 949 clutch. Going to start getting the old motor out today. Anyone know how well the 1997 ECU will run a 2001 motor? It's going to take me a bit to get a MS3 built and installed.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2010 15:06
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 06:01 |
|
|
I guess for now I could throw a meter on the stock narrowband to get an idea if it's leaning out at WOT. Switchover for the narrowband from 1 to 0v should be somewhere around stoich right? I currently only have the NA fuel system, I can still pick up the injectors/rail that came with this motor if need be. The Internet leads me to believe that the NB rail with NA injectors/FPR is the way to go. I need to see for myself that the NA rail won't fit before I pick up the NB rail. Should be an interesting project, hopefully I'll have it back together by mid October. [edit] The area above my tailpipe leads me to believe I'm running very rich at WOT currently. Washing it would ruin my data collection 
FatCow fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Sep 9, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2010 19:11
|
|