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I really don't understand how anyone is getting this kind of mileage. I just finished driving through 8 (7.982) gallons of gas and I made it 162 (.5) miles. That's about 20 MPG. Taking into account that it is 140 city miles and 20 highway miles, and that those city miles are all before the car has warmed up, and also that I drive with the top down all the time, I'm still not coming anywhere close to the mileage that I should be getting. And there's no problems with the car, I'm not beating it ridiculously, I do have oversize tires on the car, but not enough to account for the difference in actual and reported mileage. No CELs, no codes in the ECU. No modifications other than a Flyin' Miata axle-back muffler. The air filter is clean, the oil is 2500 miles old. 2002 LS with 74K miles.
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Jun 11, 2008 15:38
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Partial Octopus posted:The silver miata is a Miata LS. Does that just mean it has LSD? It could also, possibly, have the uprated shocks. No guarantees, though.
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May 19, 2015 21:51
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnLaotz-kBY
The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jun 10, 2015 |
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Jun 10, 2015 18:08
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdgzilEXQL8
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Jun 19, 2015 20:09
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The fifth member of KISS?
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Jul 7, 2015 17:09
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BloodBag posted:
Nothin'. People always drop all the suspension stroke out of their cars, which means they have to go up in spring rate and compression dampening to prevent bottoming out. The NB and NC Miata (and probably the NA too, but I haven't driven any) have always have a relatively long stroke. Sure, the car may roll a bit in the corners, and the front dips a bit under heavy braking, but that's part of what makes the ride and predictability (relatively) good.
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Jul 24, 2015 21:14
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Here is what happens when you have a rollover in a Miata with no rollbar:    And here is what a rollover in a Miata WITH a rollbar looks like:  So, here is you without a rollbar:  HTH!
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Aug 31, 2015 18:17
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Phone posted:A good Sigma X post. TBH I don't know if you're being sarcastic or not, but the Miata was still the most fun car I've owned and I greatly enjoyed all forms of motorsport I participated in while driving it. I was also never dumb enough to track it without a rollbar, or depend on the fiberglass hardtop for rollover protection, precisely because of pictures like those. A NA-NC Miata's front windshield will fold like a napkin in even slow-speed rollover, and there is literally nothing else preventing the car from sitting flat other than the seatback and your spine. Don't track it without a rollbar, and don't buy one of those mousetrap "rollbars", either. Get something with proper chassis tie-in and bracing.
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Aug 31, 2015 18:25
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Trans Ferdinand posted:In addition to having been registered longer than you, I've been reading this forum for longer than you - how's that? Trans Ferdinand posted:Now that that's clarified... And your litte call-out post probably would have been replaced with an E/N icon and you would have been banned. Trans Ferdinand posted:Sure. It's also true that while Trump doesn't represent the population of America, he's probably doing incalculable damage to the reputation of America through his idiotic yelling. Trans Ferdinand posted:Because I thought it was amusing that he would come out of a multiple-week posting hiatus, foaming at the mouth, to browbeat some track newbie. Then I found out Phone actually messaged him on Facebook, letting him know that some SERIOUS poo poo was going down in the Miata thread....which is perhaps even more hilarious. AI is such a good forum, one of the best car-related forums on the net, because, for the most part, the shitheads like you are kept out. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Sep 1, 2015 12:18
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ethanol posted:Calm the gently caress down forums posters but i rated this thread a 5 and it lowtax told me to go hog wild
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Sep 1, 2015 12:21
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ethanol posted:want to hear about my insurance claim instead? I do too, the insurance company never called back about that police report..... The only lovely, shifty insurance adjuster/company I have ever run into has been USAA. EDIT: Meant non-lovely, non-shifty. The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Sep 1, 2015 |
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Sep 1, 2015 19:30
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Oh Hey Phone, I saw you driving down Davis in the ND yesterday.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:50
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ionn posted:I have a question that has been bugging me for some time. Which way is the proper way to orient the vents in an NA Miata? I always kept mine at + because it seemed more effective at separating out adjustment of horizontal and vertical air direction, but YMMV.
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Feb 12, 2016 15:41
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There is a 2001 SE on BAT today and I submitted a bid on it. I'd like to strip it down for a track-only car. gently caress Special Edition.
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Jul 16, 2016 15:42
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Blaise posted:My GF calls S2000s "the Honda Miata." Mine calls them "the other Miata". When I told her I was going to go ahead with getting a Miata, she asked me if it was a Miata or an other Miata.
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Mar 1, 2018 15:34
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I am now the proud owner of a 2001 base. It came with a Bethania Garage Deuce (which I am removing), FM swaybars and endlinks, and 7 (that's right, SEVEN) paint colors. I will be completely removing all carpeting and sound deadening, removing the audio system the PO stuck in, and eventually replacing the stock seats with some nice race seats.
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Mar 5, 2018 17:37
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Anyone know of any reason to avoid permanently removing the "parcel shell bulkhead" out of an NB? It was sliced into multiple pieces by the previous owner to do a rollbar install, and since I'm pulling the current one out and replacing it with a Bethania M2 HCHT I'm left with either "cut even more holes into it", "buy a new one and only cut clearance for the HCHT", or "just leave the thing off, it's a track car". And further into PO stereo install fuckery, he lost most of the door clips, completely removed the inner door card, and cut up the vapor barrier. Anyone know of a good alternative that I can (possibly) seal to the door? Like this, but for an NB?
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Mar 6, 2018 15:21
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My HPDE registration calls the car's color "Harlequin".   
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Mar 7, 2018 02:23
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FatCow posted:Like the baby? I was thinking more like the VW paint scheme, but lol. It definitely has some inside bits on the outside at the moment.
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Mar 7, 2018 14:07
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Most of the POs' modifications have been dealt with. There is some slight surface rush on the passenger's side due to water ingress. I need to sand, paint and then seal the holes in the chassis from the previous rollbar, put the dash back in, cut the rear parcel shelf area to fit the new roll bar and install it, and then reinstall the seats. The Falkens have been mounted + balanced and are ready to go back on the car. On another note, I have a Bethania Garage Deuce for NA or NB with fresh hardware available for anyone interested.     
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Mar 10, 2018 21:36
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Phone posted:Most clubs (including NASA, BMWCCA, PCA, etc) want a diagonal and the Hard Dog satisfies that. I paid $3100 for it. Cheapest option I could find for an NB2 in two months of looking, that DIDN'T have structural rust or a rebuilt title. It's already got FM swaybars, adjustable end links, a big aluminum radiator, (EDIT: Oh yeah, Superpro offset bushings,) the Deuce which I'm hoping to be able to sell for a few hundred, and a fresh soft-top and top hardware which I'm hoping to be able to sell for a few hundred. Voltage posted:I would be interested if it was good enough for track days but I assume I would need a real deal hard dog or blackbird fabworx diagonal for that. The Deuce is a solid roll bar, it's from the same maker as all the Hard Dog series, but it's not legal for most clubs because it's a dual-hoop design, meant to look like old-school roadster like the Cobra: 
The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Mar 11, 2018 |
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Mar 11, 2018 14:43
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Anyone know of a list/collection of racing seats that will fit in a NB without hammering the transmission tunnel into oblivion?
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Mar 30, 2018 15:45
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ionn posted:... But how the heck do I get this out? ... Remove the bezel around the entire set of center console units, push in retaining clips on the sides of the unit you want to remove, pull towards front to get some space, remove plugs from behind, remove entirely.
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Apr 2, 2018 19:22
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ionn posted:Ah, thanks. That bezel appears to be screwed in at the bottom, so it seems I have to take out the lower "between-the-seats" part first.   (somewhat hacked up) Bezel, minus the two screw tabs you're talking about. Take note of the poppable tabs on the perimeter:   Bottom of the tombstone, where those two screw tabs (usually) attach: 
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Apr 2, 2018 21:48
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mobby_6kl posted:^^^ I think it depends very much on the area. I consider myself lucky to have found a non-defrost hardtop for $750 where I live - most of them are asking 900-1100.
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Jun 9, 2018 17:52
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So, for those SCCA Solo'ers in the thread, what the HELL class is a base '01 with a torsen swap, no interior carpets or sound deadening, aftermarket ARBs, intake, strut brace? SSM due to the interior missing?
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Jun 13, 2018 00:55
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FatCow posted:They are like a foot long. This is clearly a ratchet strap job. What's your cage? Miatacage? Did you have it wielded in nearby?
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Jul 12, 2018 22:37
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Phone posted:lol miata cage I took a look at their gallery, wasn't particularly impressed. CC  vs MC  Maybe I just don't know what to look for.
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Jul 13, 2018 13:42
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Voltage posted:Good to know! Might have to skip it then. Like one or two notches forward on the seat gives enough clearance to not destroy your skull.
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Aug 10, 2018 01:15
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Next up, in Previous Owner Tomfoolery: Located passenger-side floor. What you guys think?
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Oct 17, 2018 18:57
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My real question is, but why? They cut out a piece of the floor and (poorly) welded it back in? Por que?
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Oct 17, 2018 20:52
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BloodBag posted:Maybe someone crushed the box section under the floor there and pounded it back out from the inside? ...anything's possible! But, that one may be the winner. Suburban Dad posted:Can't think of a good reason why in that spot. That's on the passenger side floor just in front of the bulkhead/ECU mount area, right? 
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Oct 18, 2018 14:52
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um excuse me posted:...It's crazy when these are available. It's not at all crazy when the fiberglass version with an acrylic window is $1500 plus around $600 shipping. $2100 for a hard top and acrylic rear window with no seals, AND you have to mount/affix the window to the top yourself? Might as well just go with a Treasure Coast fiberglass top and window at that point and be up a grand.
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Oct 20, 2018 15:16
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What's the "Best" NB Miata shop book?
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Jan 11, 2019 19:51
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ethanol posted:Low intake pressure in turbo is the “lag”anybody talks about. It can be caused by low rpms or low throttle. It’s real pedantic to call one boost threshold and the other lag. I mean, you're entitled to your opinion, but it's wrong. The rpm that the turbo starts making additional power, and turbo lag, are two totally different things to *most* any enthusiast.
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Jan 15, 2019 19:57
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DeNofa posted:So does antilag fix turbo lag or adjust the boost threshold? It fixes turbo lag.
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Jan 15, 2019 22:33
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FatCow posted:Itt nerds argue about spool and lag. I mean, yeah, it's too cold to rip the suspension out of my Miata right now, so might as well argue about dumb poo poo online.
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Jan 15, 2019 23:51
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BloodBag posted:This is for an NA/NB miata, so new OEM ones are no longer made as far as I know. There are other companies making carbon ones by now, but the fitment is the same as the snugtop, which is not as good as OEM. Houston's market for hardtops is pretty scarce and rarely under $1000. I mean at the moment there is only one listed, it's OEM but it's in bad shape, and it's $1000. Actually, Mazda just started making NA/NB hardtops fresh from the factory recently as part of the Roadster Refresh program. Someone on another Miata-specific forum I occasionally browse just picked one up, the cost is roughly $1700. https://www.flickr.com/photos/phatmiata/45992764524/ The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Jan 17, 2019 |
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Jan 17, 2019 14:10
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Atomizer posted:So it sounds like it's a seller's market near you just out of scarcity, although I can see Houston having a smaller market than in Chicago, for comparison, due to weather. I wouldn't worry about no-shows, as for this sort of thing the actual interested parties will maintain contact due to the aforementioned scarcity. $1700 was what the guy paid to pick it up from his local dealership. Glass window, defrost, latches, trim. The only thing that needs to be done to drop it on the car is to paint it over the black gelcoat it comes with.
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Jan 18, 2019 14:01
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Voltage posted:I'm about to install my new shocks/mounts/boots and energy bushings, but I figure I may as well replace my springs as well since they are from 1994 - anything a good pairing for kyb AGX shocks? I drive on pretty trash roads so I do not want to slam it - but less body roll would be nice for some autox and track usage. Have you contacted KYB and asked them about spring rate suggested for that model of shock? Alternately, the FM springs have been a good street option for years. https://www.flyinmiata.com/na-flyin-miata-springs.html At 320/230 rate they are going to be pretty compliant (while being, like, twice as stiff as stock). If you're willing to accept a more harsh ride for a racier feel, then you might want to look at some higher-rate springs. Alternately, if it's just body roll you're trying to prevent - upgrade your ARBs. EDIT: vvv https://www.flyinmiata.com/na8-flyin-miata-sway-bars.html They are metal bars that connect the left and right side suspension bits. Primarily used to control the amount of lateral roll on a front axle/rear axle ratio. You don't really want to gently caress with that ratio that much unless you're looking into motorsports. Pre-designed combinations are probably your best bet; strengthening your frot ARB without strengthening the rear leads to understeer, and vice versa, oversteer. The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 24, 2019 17:00
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