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I guess my SA membership and AI lurking has had more of an influence on me than I previously thought... Last week I picked up my first Miata   It's a 95 that I managed to grab for $1k off of CL... it's got a few issues, such as needing a new rear window, steering wheel, and window switch, and it's absurdly dirty, but mechanically it's pretty good and has been reasonably well maintained. It was originally Montego Blue (M8), but at some point was resprayed to British Racing Green. Owning one I now understand why so many people love Miatas... It handles like a top, even compared to some great handling cars I've owned (MR2, STI, etc). I also can't believe how cheap aftermarket parts are... In fact, it kind of annoys me that I can get a brand new set of sway bars for this thing for $200, and I'd have to hunt to find ONE that price for my R32.
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Apr 3, 2011 04:11
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Saw this on the way home today... a Miata with 18, possibly 19" wheels. Anyone with wheels this large on a Miata should hit themself in the face. Hard.
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Apr 13, 2011 04:07
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I think I've decided on my suspension setup... -Koni Sport struts ("Yellows", which are on sale) -Ground Control CO Springs, with 350-500 in front and 250-400 in the rear, still trying to decide on the best rate -NB top hats and bump stops (still trying to decide if it's worth it to spend the cash on FCM stuff) -Sway Bars, probably Racing Beat Anyone have thoughts on which spring rates I should go with?
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Apr 16, 2011 22:56
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Phone posted:Use FCM's spreadsheet to mess around with the numbers for the best FRC. Thanks... I had somehow missed that spreadsheet. Quick question to anyone, why does everyone seem to run the stock rear bar or a relatively small bar in comparison to the front? Is the Miata prone so snap oversteer or just set up to naturally oversteer in stock form?
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Apr 19, 2011 07:26
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Piano posted:WTS JDM aluminum a/c vent rings. Or will trade for any sub $600 coilover, but it must be Chinese and allow for a wheel center to fender measurement of -3".
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Apr 21, 2011 06:07
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Coredump posted:MEV Awesomesauce Wow, that kit and build thread are fantastic. I was going to supercharge my $1k 95 Miata and drive the crap out of it, but maybe an MEV would be a fun alternative too
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May 5, 2011 04:58
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That car above looks clean, though I can't say I'm a fan of the whole sink the tires in the fenders look. So I'm ready to buy a roll bar and I think I'm going to get the Boss Frog Clearview Standard. I found it unfinished for $423 here http://www.deftracing.com/miata_parts/miata_boss_frog_clearview_single_hoop_rollbar_standard_unpainted.htm and according to the vendor it'll fit Miatas from 90-05 and will fit under hard tops... the only downside seems to be complaints people have regarding seat belts sometimes don't retract, but there is an adapter if that gets to me. Has anyone here ever repainted their own Miata? Mine was originally Montego Blue, but then at some point repainted to British Racing Green which has since gone to crap quite a bit. I'm thinking about either getting it resprayed or doing it myself...
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May 12, 2011 05:23
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I was pretty set on Koni Yellows, GC coilover springs and NB hats, but now I'm waffling a little bit. Before I place an order, is there anything else I should be considering on a ~$1000 budget? My understanding is that most coilovers in that price range aren't comparable performance and durability wise...
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May 20, 2011 05:43
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Phone posted:Save up a bit and spring for FCM? The Xida Clubsports are 2k+ iirc, but if you're in no rush, I'd recommend getting FCMs instead of rolling out own custom GC package + whatever shocks. Are the FCMs so good that they're worth the big bump in price? They're monotube custom valved Bilsteins with Eibach coilover springs, right? Sorry if I sound overly critical, if it was only 2-300 over budget I'd be more willing to make the jump, but for 75% more I'm not sure.
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May 20, 2011 06:12
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Heh, why did you even bother to clean them if you were going to paint the tires too? That said, I think it looks hilarious and nutty
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May 26, 2011 05:21
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Gembolah posted:Soft top question: If you read back a few pages there is quite a bit of discussion on replacement tops. I think the general consensus is that it can be a pain to install tops, but if you're patient it's definitely doable and can save you a lot of money. That said, $900 seems really high, even for a pro install on a Robbins top. I'm in the Seattle area and I see ads on CL all of the time advertising the same thing for $500. If the zipper assembly wasn't at issue, you could buy a cutout/glue in window replacement from eMiata for pretty cheap. I did that on my last miata and it came out "ok". The main lesson learned was to make sure not to use too much glue and to be careful as heck with it since it is impossible to clean up.
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Jul 2, 2011 07:11
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Ok, finally going to share my most recent change up. Sold my 95 two weeks ago... I've been wanting a 99+ and managed to find a really good price on one locally despite the "it's sunny out" tax everyone is adding to convertibles on CL. It's a 99 in white with 135k, most services records, an OEM hard top, torsen rear end, etc. These pictures are before detailing.   The outside needed to be clay barred and waxed desperately, and came out pretty nicely. Considering how old the paint is, I'm reasonably happy with it. The interior is still pending a detail, which it needs because it's stinkyyyy. The nasty rear end seat covers are happily gone though. I'm probably going to sell the HT locally since I got a deal on a CF one and the OEM units seem to have inflated values thanks to the Spec guys and I can use the difference in cash on other parts. Plans right now are to replace the original radiator with an aluminum unit since it's turning brown, then sort out the suspension (likely going to try VMAXX coils and a racing beat hollow front bar), install a roll bar (likely Boss Frog unfinished), then wheels and tires, which I picked up a set of rpf1s that need refinishing/powdercoating on CL. Long term I might supercharge... I don't know. It looks like the cheaper Jackson Racing kit (MP45 I think?) isn't being sold and the only option is the $3k MP62 or spending even more for a cold side or something... I guess I could look at turboing, but after dealing with turbo lag on my last few cars I'm not sure that I want to.
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Jul 4, 2011 18:24
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destructo posted:Waste of money, get an OEM replacement off ebay for $70. I think Aeon is the brand. destructo posted:RB tubular is a good idea, if you're going to spend VMAXX money you may as well spent a little more and buy something else. destructo posted:The only good supercharger kit is the Rotrex, and that's coming from a guy with an M45 sitting in the basement.
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Jul 5, 2011 08:58
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Sadi posted:Im first on the list to look at it. Wanted to make sure the price wasnt outlandish. I don't think it is... The stats for the price seem good, especially considering the time of the year. Check the plastic window to make sure it's not cracked, but even those are replaceable.
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Jul 5, 2011 17:19
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destructo posted:The owner is probably retarded seeing as he put 15x8 0-offset wheels on the thing. Heh, I hadn't even noticed how far those things are sticking out in the back... Who needs wheel bearings? Also, the style bar has got to go.
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Jul 5, 2011 18:03
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Mat_Drinks posted:What would your suggestions be? I had been thinking about Koni Yellows and GC coilover's but the price on that doesn't seem great for what you're getting (an "ok" setup). People seem to love the FCM setup and the Xida's too, but those are triple the price of the VMAXX, which seems to be getting good reviews for an entry level CO. Quoting myself because Destructo left me hanging... you can't just say "don't by x suspension and y supercharger" without explaining it!
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Jul 6, 2011 06:09
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Argh, on the way to work this morning I got a CEL, followed by a blinking cel rather quickly. I limped it home fast and pulled the code... P0420. I'm familiar with replacing cats and o2 sensors, but I've never had it affect how a car runs this severely... after some digging it looks like I may have the dreaded coil pack failure (it does after all have 135k and I don't think the maintenance records I have show the coil pack as having ever been replaced). Quick question though... by the time I got the car home to pull the code, the CEL was solid, not blinking and only pulled the one code mentioned above. Does the engine misfire code that is indicative of coil pack failure only stay as long as the misfire is occurring? I'm hoping that by getting the car home fast I didn't kill the cat and o2 sensors. We'll see.
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Jul 7, 2011 07:31
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I'd walk too, but mostly because it sounds like you could be walking into a hornets nest full of problems and it's not like that car is a screaming deal or anything. You're better off waiting and getting something nicer or something cheaper.
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Jul 13, 2011 08:18
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aventari posted:I have an issue with my 99 Sounds like we're bad coilpack buddies. I finally just got my replacement in the mail today and hope to install it tomorrow.
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Jul 14, 2011 04:00
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Piano, Those door panels look great. And regarding hard tops, there are still deals to be found, probably not on ebay though. I was on the Seattle CL the other day and there was an OEM non defrost HT in need of painting for $800. Not too bad. On my own Miata front, I finally got my new coil pack in yesterday (and changed my plugs while I was at it), got the car started up and while I wasn't getting a CEL, it did still chug. My code reader stated P303 pending. Blargh. So today my hope is to try cleaning the Cam Position Sensor to see if that helps, if it doesn't, I guess I'll order a new one, and maybe a crank position sensor as well.
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Jul 17, 2011 17:17
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You could try putting on some dielectric (sp?) gel on it to see if that helps. If that doesn't work, wires are cheaper than coil packs, so I'd try new wires, then new coils.
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Jul 26, 2011 06:31
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re: shopping for Miatas... it's the time of year. Wait until the good weather passes and you'll find the best deals. That being said, there ARE deals out there. I recently sold my NA for $2k and bought an NB with 135k, and records that's in pretty darn good condition with a hard top for 4.5k.
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Jul 28, 2011 07:00
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crutt posted:Anyone know what I could sell my miata for? Depending on how bad the dents are, I'd maybe start at 5.5k and hope for 4.5-5. For reference I bought a 99 with the same mileage, hard top, etc for 4.5k a few months ago
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Aug 2, 2011 05:35
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Awwww yeah 99 
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Aug 7, 2011 20:05
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 16:55 |
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Phone posted:No, you can get a rollbar under the softtop on an NC. Honestly, they're both great cars and the only reason to buy one over the other is if you need rear seats or prefer a convertible. The BRZ/FRS is definitely much bigger than the NA/NB though.
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Nov 29, 2013 18:57
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