MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

iscariot posted:

I just did my top 2 months ago or so. Robbins, vinyl, zip out window, rain rail attached.

12 hours later, I will *gladly* pay someone else to do that job in the future. It's not overly difficult, but hard to do it 'right'.

Can you expand on that at all? Is it just hard to line things up or something?

# ¿ Oct 12, 2007 17:45

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 09:42

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

lordmaf posted:

Ill miss her when she goes. cracking little car that has not broken down or had any major problem (alternator belt going). But i need something faster.

6 months and counting

No offense, but it's mighty irritating when people post somewhat uncommon cars and don't bother telling people what the gently caress they are. I thought for sure that was an elise with a weird emblem or something until you mentioned vx. Apparently it's actually a Vauxhall VX220.

# ¿ Oct 17, 2007 20:11

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

lordmaf posted:

sorry bud.

Keep forgeting this is a US forum.

Yeah its a VX220. They didnt make many of them. its basically a lotus elise with a different body, engine and running gear. A little heavier but with more torque than the K series lotus.

0-60 5.6s and 30-40 mpg. which is a nice bonus

Sounds cool, especially since it makes a Miata look practical. Are they as well known as Lotus in the UK?

# ¿ Oct 17, 2007 21:40

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

phootnote posted:

i have been thinking about getting a miata, and i was wondering what year did they switch over to premium fuel?

It's either 2000 or 2001. I have a '99 and it takes regular, so it was definitely after that.

# ¿ Apr 25, 2008 17:55

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

My stupidity with not checking my oil regularly finally caught up with me. It caused a spun bearing on my 99. Now it looks like I need to either rebuild the engine for $4400 or get a used one put in for $3400. Is there any reason to spend the extra $1000 on the rebuild? Is that just a gently caress off price because it sucks to do a rebuild?

# ¿ May 13, 2008 17:28

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

FireTora posted:

Before

After

It made a large difference. Now I just need to deaden the inside of the parcel shelf and the rest of the trunk and then hopefully most of the drone will be gone. Putting 3 layers of the stuff int he recessed part of the trunk definitely made a difference with the drone.

Oh my. How much weight does that stuff add?

# ¿ Sep 4, 2008 17:08

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

I did one on the front of my '99 the other day. Really easy:

*Loosen the lugs, and break off the stud that Dumbass McFuckstick trashed by using an airgun to thread it. Harbor Freight breaker bar comes in handy.
*Jack up the corner, remove the wheel
*Remove one of the sliders and move the caliper out of the way. Probably take the pads out too since they won't want to stay in, and watch out for those drat springs.
*Remove the rotor
*Attack the short stud with your weapon of choice to loosen it. I went for a combination of a C-clamp to try and push it out, and a hammer to finish it off. Took a few minutes.
*Insert new stud, try and line up the splines if you can.
*Stack a bunch of washers on the stud and use the lug nut to pull it into the hub. Do this slowly.
*Remove lug nut and washers, put everything back together the way it was.

Coincidentally, I recently did one of the front wheels of my '99 Miata too. That sounds like about what I did. I'm a huge fag though, so I took the hub all the way off, pressed the old stud out, and pressed a new one in (a vice and some sockets work fine for this). The only extra thing you have to do is remove the axle nut, but that can be a bitch if you don't have airtools, since it's staked. Staked nuts have a collar that is bent with a chisel or something to catch an indentation in whatever they thread onto. You're supposed to replace it if you take it off, which is about $5 at Autozone. Or just reuse and stake in a different place.

# ¿ Oct 15, 2008 18:06

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

So I need to confirm that I have the right sized socket for the huge axle nut (at least I recall it being pretty big when I last looked). What about staking makes it easier for air tools to take off? Or does the presence of the staking just mean that it's on really loving tight? Does any have a torque spec or references for this nut? I couldn't find it on miata.net or on google.

Yeah. I want to say that it's about 24 mm, but it might even be like 29 or 30 or something monstrous like that.

It's on really loving tight and it's hard to unstake it all the way with the little room you have. Since it's made of brass, if you don't unstake it all the way an airtool will do it for you by pushing it against the notch in the spindle. Since the steel spindle is far harder than the brass nut, this takes the stake right out.

IOwnCalculus's method is definitely easier, especially if you don't have airtools. I was just a bit leery about screwing up the spindle with the hammering or loving up the splines in the stud by pulling it on with a nut. Of course, I also had a nice air impact right there.

Torque spec from the '99 FSM is 123 - 159 ft-lb. After you get it in, you should make the stake at least 0.5 mm deep (also from the '99 FSM). A cold chisel works nicely for that.

# ¿ Oct 16, 2008 21:25

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Mo Hawk posted:

Here tops go for about €300, how come y'all pay so much for them?

Spec Miata racers need hard tops since they're much more aerodynamic than the soft tops. Of course, they're required to use an OEM hard top if they want to do that, so our good friends supply and demand kick in. This is the common explanation I hear, anyway.

# ¿ Nov 2, 2008 18:40

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

RubySprinkles posted:

Second, it's the size of the Miata I think. People are jerks and just don't pay attention. I've noticed it ever since I've been driving mine. I don't know how many near misses I've had...

I think this is the big one. I know that I managed to get hit within six months of buying mine. I was backing out of a parking space and the SUV behind me was doing the same thing. I saw them and stopped, but they hit me before I find the horn. Their excuse was "your car is so low I couldn't even see it."

These days I'm just really paranoid about other cars, especially SUVs, and keep my hand right above the horn when I'm in a parking lot near them. I'd consider that overly paranoid if it hadn't saved me from at least one other hit. Same excuse.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2009 21:59

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Phone posted:

Ever honk your horn while going 70-75mph on the freeway? You can't even hear it.

I need to get an airhorn.

I haven't had the same problem on the freeway. Not really sure why; maybe just because people are more aware of their surroundings or that I can easily get out of their way most of the time or something.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2009 22:11

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

Ugh. Apparently when I last put the accessory belts on the '99, I forgot to torque down the bolt that holds the upper alternator bracket to the front of the engine. It's now long gone. I'm pretty sure it had a 14mm head but I don't know the actual bolt diameter, thread pitch, or length. Does anyone know what size bolt goes in there? I can't seem to find a diagram or part number.

If you're feeling super OCD, the part number is 99724-1000 (based on http://www.miata.net/garage/90-99Parts/99/MX5%2099%201%20OF%203%20ENGINE.pdf page 1-F8). I'm pretty sure that it's just an M10-1.0 bolt with a length of like 20mm or 30mm, but you can probably pick up a bolt box from autozone and use trial and error without any problem.

# ¿ Mar 18, 2009 17:52

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Phone posted:

The touring I think just includes a Nardi steering wheel. No LSD or anything.

IIRC, the 6-speed just means more shifting since the rear end hasn't changed. So instead of getting 58-60mph out of 2nd, it tops out at 55mph or something like that.

I think there's also a slightly higher theoretical top speed (if it weren't drag limited instead) and lower RPM at a given speed with the six-speed vs the five. Sixth in a six-speed has a slightly lower gear ratio than fifth in a five-speed.

Not that anyone would really notice.

# ¿ May 1, 2009 17:29

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Schwack posted:

Well, my 6 month old Robbins cloth top was slashed open last night, even though there was nothing in the car to steal. Any suggestions for replacements? I really wasnt happy with the cloth as it required a lot more cleaning than I expected. Are the vinyl tops easier to maintain?

I've got an OEM vinyl top and I'd go with a yes on the ease of maintenance. Rinse it off and put some Meguier's #40 (or whatever vinyl/plastic protectant you like) on every so often and it looks pretty much new, even after ten years.

# ¿ Jun 27, 2009 21:20

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

FunkyJunk posted:

Tan tops can get get grimy looking before too long. The only thing I've found that has any effect on the grime is Simple Green, scrubbed in with a stiff nylon brush. You can get it spotless with this.

That's a good point, I can only speak about black (well, really dark blue) tops.

# ¿ Jun 28, 2009 19:34

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Shlomo Palestein posted:

A lot of cars do this. My old Sentra had the same feature, which I learned of after bashing both front rotors off with a rubber mallet. My wrists rang for weeks.

If you get the cheapest Autozone specials, they often lack these holes. Of course, I see no reason that you couldn't just drill and tap them yourself since rotors are just cast iron. Just make sure that the holes exist in new rotors or you will hate yourself next time you have to take them off.

# ¿ Jul 2, 2009 18:04

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

Also if you can't take the OMG GAY CAR stigma then, regardless of any basis in reality, you're not going to be able to handle having a Miata. I just think it's faaaaabulous.

I actually never got any kind of poo poo from people for owning a Miata in person, just on the internet. Most of the comments in person have just been like, "whoa, nice sports car dude!" Maybe 'cause they're less common in the northeast or something.

# ¿ Jul 7, 2009 01:10

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

FireTora posted:

Check your oil level, but generally all miatas have lifter tick.

NBs and on don't. They went to solid lifters in those, so lifter tick is impossible. Threepac, you should definitely check your oil level though. Have you had low oil recently at all?

# ¿ Jul 11, 2009 05:24

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

Tell that to my '99, it ticks like mad (though not as bad as my sister-in-law's '95).

Really? Are you sure it's the lifters or could it be something else? I talked to a couple of Mazda mechanics when I was trying to diagnose ticking in my '99 and they said they'd never had anything but NAs that needed lifter work.

FWIW, when the '99 in question was ticking it was from a spun bearing

# ¿ Jul 11, 2009 05:35

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Well then, I stand corrected.

# ¿ Jul 11, 2009 06:26

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

The Third Man posted:

couple folks on miata.net said it actually increases headroom by a bit, so that was encouraging. Thanks for the advice.

In my '99 it increased headroom by like a half inch or so. Hope you have a similar experience.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2009 18:13

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

So it sounds like the best way to make a Miata fast is to sell it and buy a Solstice GXP.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2009 17:27

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Oh, I was just riffing on the idea of "Miatas aren't supposed to be fast"

# ¿ Aug 20, 2009 20:16

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Coffee Jones posted:

I was just about to ask this sort of question.
Mazda's site says their current Miata gets: 22/28, while a Civic gets 26 / 34

The NC Miata is 500 pounds lighter, and the engine is slightly larger, but that's still a large difference.
Is it suspension setup, drivetrain loss, or gearing?

The engine in a Miata is tuned more for performance than the civic's engine; as somebody mentioned earlier, Mazda engines run rich. That means extra fuel consumption.

# ¿ Nov 20, 2009 18:13

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

I think one thing I read about the short nose crank is that if it's about to go, you can grab the crank pulley and feel noticeable side to side play with it.

Did you look toward the rear around the cam cover or on the CAS to see if there was any oil leaking out? Or if there was oil stains on the hoses back there? Those might be signs that the CAS O-ring hasn't been replaced.

Oh, NE people, if anyone is looking for what seems to be an insane deal, check out:
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1476064320.html
I'm gonna meet with the dude Monday but it might be too late.

"Needs Some Rust Repair to Pass Inspection" bothers me a little; implies that there's nasty unibody rust that needs to be repaired and might not end up with the car driving straight anymore.

# ¿ Nov 22, 2009 00:19

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

If it totally conked, you could recoup some, if not all of the cost by selling the hardtop (OEM according to seller) and parting out the car. Though that's still a hassle and not as fun as a running Miata.

Oh, most definitely. I'm just trying to figure out how that car ended up at that price.

# ¿ Nov 22, 2009 00:37

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

pacheco posted:

Also, how do you guys go from dead stop to first gear? I have to either slip the clutch a lot or the car either stalls or jerks forwards and backwards. I know I am a crappy stick driver, so what are your tips to get good?

My old apartment complex had a carded gate on a hill, so I got REALLY good at hill starts in my '99. Best thing I can suggest is giving it a lot more gas to keep it from stalling.

# ¿ Jan 15, 2010 17:49

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

My advice was probably misleading, in that if you go over 2000 RPM or so, you're doing it wrong. It's just that if you're on a hill and letting the clutch out reasonably quickly, there's no way to keep it from stalling aside from giving it more gas so that the engine's producing enough force to keep the car from rolling back. Gookistamano seems to have worded it a bit better. Esp the part about moving the clutch to just about to engage and switch from brake to gas.

# ¿ Jan 16, 2010 02:49

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

You can get at the bolt under the alternator without jacking up the car. It's a bit of a pain in the rear end though, especially because there's a bracket right behind the bolt. I'm pretty sure it's 14 mm.

Edit: Yeah, it seems like the belts need to be quite a bit tighter than what the spec claims.

# ¿ Jan 17, 2010 20:08

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Funny story, I'm a transsexual dyke, and the stereotype other women seem to have for Miatas is that they're driven by balding, middle-aged IT workers. Which has accuracy going for it, I guess

(still not trading it in for a mini though)

# ¿ Feb 10, 2010 09:56

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

dreesemonkey posted:

I think the general consensus on the 6spd is that it's a waste. The 5/6 speed top gear ratio is the same, so the 6spd it's just extra shifting for no "cruising" gear benefit.

Might make sense on a corvette or something that's geared ultra-low to begin with, but not a miata.

It is a stronger transmission though, which is nice if you like the boost.

# ¿ May 20, 2010 22:15

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Hagetaka posted:

OK, I'm a bad maintenance guy, but I finally thought to blow out/change my air filter. I open the box, get it off, and pull the filter. The entire bottom of the box is filled with little green pellets. It looks exactly like D-Con.

Is the previous owner loving nuts or is there some logic behind this?

Maybe the dude was having problems with mice.

# ¿ Jul 2, 2010 02:46

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Piano posted:

sorry if repost.

That looks like it's going to end really well. I don't think they're gonna get a measurement other than "0 torque."

# ¿ Aug 25, 2010 15:59

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

These gentlemen would beg to differ.

Lyesh fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Oct 15, 2010

# ¿ Oct 15, 2010 04:33

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Half of an Elise.

# ¿ Jan 26, 2011 18:57

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

And remember that if your NB is ticking, you've spun a rod bearing.

Guess how I know

# ¿ Feb 18, 2011 00:41

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

Speaking of '99 coil packs, are there replacements that don't die like the OEM ones or do we have to just get used to replacing them every few years?

# ¿ Jul 7, 2011 17:48

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

TrueChaos posted:

Alright so I'm 95% sure it's time for a new battery, as it's getting harder and harder to start in the morning when it's cold out. I've been reading about AGM batteries and whatnot, and outside of not wanting to pay out the nose for one it seems like they're not as good at cold starting. What are my other options, and what should I be concerned about?

Just get an AGM battery. They're spillproof (kinda important in the trunk), last forever, and aren't any more expensive than any of the regular batteries that you can get that fit in a Miata. Just make absolutely sure that whatever battery you get has vents. I'm pretty sure I got the Marathon battery from batterymart.com, and it works great, even in the cold.

# ¿ Nov 23, 2011 18:05

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

TheNothingNew posted:

Okay, so what causes the interior fans to sound like there's a leaf stuck in there? Sound stops if I turn the fan off, and stops briefly if I turn the fan to full and then back to 2, then starts up again.

Take the blower out and see if there's a leaf in there. It's decently likely.

# ¿ Mar 7, 2015 06:54

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 09:42

Lyesh: Apr 9, 2003

djfooboo posted:

So the plastic connector for my headlight bulb (NB Miata) won't release one side. I tried for 20 minutes and gave up because it was hot as balls. Other side comes out fine. Any ideas on how to get this sucker out a different way?

Slice it out and replace it with a ceramic connector because the plastic ones just melt and make it a pain in the rear end to change bulbs.

I'm slightly bitter.

# ¿ Jun 16, 2015 05:50

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