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So I'm gonna join the Miata army on Saturday with a '99 NB with 45,000 miles on it for $6k. The bad news: The top is a bit ripped, with a cheapo duct-tape fix. I was gonna use plasti-cote or something as a short-term fix. Does anyone know a good source of a used/new/aftermarket top for <$600 that's as good as the standard one? Conversely, does anyone know of a hard-top in or around Massachusetts for around $1000-1200?
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Jul 17, 2008 17:06
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Are the tops easy enough to replace yourself? I can do most mechanical work, but from what I've found online, a lot of people regard top replacement as a huge pain in the rear end. For reference, I've essentially rebuilt a Honda CB from used parts in the past year. Also, do you have to remove the soft-top to install a hard-top?
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Jul 17, 2008 18:43
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So...ah...anyone near MA selling a hardtop? Miata.net has the closest person at NY with a red one, and the car's green  Not that I care much, I guess. You can paint it. But if anyone's nearby with one they'd be willing to part with for, say, a grand, I'd appreciate it 
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Jul 17, 2008 23:41
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So I'm getting a hardtop because my softtop is ragged and leaky. I just noticed my trunk leaks as well (hooray). I'm gonna clean the rain gutters, but in case it's the rain rail, is that used at all for rain flow when the hardtop is on? So far, I've noticed the following issues with my car: 1. Leaks up in the corners of the softtop; it doesn't appear to make a full seal with the windshield, despite my having tightened the latches all the way. 2. Leaks in the passenger window seal about midway across the seat. 3. Aforementioned trunk leak. Can these be sealed up easily? Will the hardtop alleviate at least the first two? I presume so, but I'd like to be sure. Maybe next summer I'll get a new softtop, but for now I'd just like the easiest way of getting the damned thing weather sealed, and the hardtop is only $650.
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Jul 25, 2008 17:00
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iscariot posted:If the front lip of the soft top isn't making a good seal and the latches are tightened up all the way, you can use some washers to force the latch receiver lower. This appears to have worked swimmingly, thank you. We'll find out when it rains, but the latch will clamp fully now, and the tiny spot where I could once see the sun has shrunk to (hopefully!) nothing. I also hope this fixes the stupid leak on the roof midway over the window, where the seams fit on the passenger side. My girlfriend discovered this leak accidentally Also, can somebody post a picture of where the damned drainage tubes for the top are? I can't find them for the life of me, but I know they're clogged. My trunk was a sauna the other day, and I had to clear the gas cap drain tube with compressed air as well, so I figure the drain tubes are also clogged. Everything I've read says they're behind the seat around the door jamb, but I can't find them. Probably because they're so damned clogged. George RR Fartin fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jul 26, 2008 |
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Jul 26, 2008 17:26
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iscariot posted:http://picasaweb.google.com/iscariot/Miata/photo#5106310063591528450 I think I get where it is... but can you get to it without removing the top? Is there an easy way to get to the hole?
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Jul 26, 2008 19:36
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Luxmore posted:I've got a bit of a roof leak issue in my 97 NA. When it's rained for a bit, I get water coming out right here: Mine does this too, actually, so a fix would be double-as-good.
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Aug 4, 2008 15:02
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Phatty Slayer posted:I recently joined the Miata honor society. I have some work to do as my purchase was discounted due to the cars "history." You might as well just get the factory fiberglass hardtop. It only weighs 50 lbs, and I can't imagine the carbon fiber one is that much lighter, but I'm sure it's much more expensive, and I would worry about fit if it's not a Mazda made part. I got mine for $650 used. Search Craigslist. They should be between $500-1200 depending on condition.
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Aug 26, 2008 14:56
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Slothophile posted:Just be aware that if they're used they tend to mold to the shape of the car a bit so make sure you do a test fitting before you buy it. My '99 has a '94 top on it; it required less adjustment than the soft top that came with it, and it's more snug/waterproof. In hotter areas, maybe this is more of a concern due to heat warping?
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Aug 26, 2008 22:13
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FireTora posted:My project for this weekend. And finding where my a/c leaked out from... What's that?
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Aug 27, 2008 21:10
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^^^I have no idea how I missed this.mobn posted:How do I adjust the latches on my hard top? The front right and front side latches refuse to stay closed if I have the soft top latches down when I put the hard top on. If I leave the soft latches up, so they don't touch the hard top's latch restrainer things, then they'll stay shut, but that adds yet another rattle to an already rattley cabin. Flip the latches down, and you'll see a little barrel nut surrounded by a plastic piece. The piece levers forward, and you can adjust the nut. Then you put the piece back and check to see if the adjustment helped. It's just like the soft-top, unless you're talking about an NC, in which case I have no idea and I've just wasted your time.
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Sep 22, 2008 12:56
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^^ That's the second time today this has happened. > : (kaiory posted:Is this miata a good deal? I'm going to be checking it out later today. 1992 miata 5 speed with 100k miles $4000 It looks to be in amazing cosmetic shape. Be sure to check the softtop as well; I got a hardtop for mine because the softtop tore. That hardtop may have come stock (it's the right color), but it might not. Also check for service records etc... And try to talk him down to $3500 or so; mention winter's coming, and that sort of limits what you can do (without snow tires). If you feel like it, try to factor that cost in, too.
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Sep 22, 2008 18:33
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Suniikaa posted:I've never heard of this before, what is it for? Could you link to a garage page/thread about it? How would one replace the airbag'd steering wheel? Is that legal? And seconding on the loops thing; I'm intrigued.
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Oct 20, 2008 15:57
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Previa_fun posted:
To put this in perspective, I picked up a green '99 Miata for $6k with 40k on it. The soft top is poorly torn/repaired, but I grabbed a hardtop for $600. You can do much better than this.
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Nov 20, 2008 14:35
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If they're already on the frame w./rain rail, I think that's not too bad. If they were just the softtop, it would be on the expensive side by ~$200. I've been looking at soft-tops and they tend to run in the $300-600 range as an average WITHOUT frame. The rain rail seems to be included half the time, generally on the more expensive ones.
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Nov 26, 2008 20:12
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BusinessWallet posted:So total I'm looking at probably more than 3000 dollars in repairs. Rad. Should I just sell my car and get something else? That's literally half the value of the car in nothing that will actually make it worth more money, or faster or anything else. I also have a '99 with a bit of a dent from what looks like the car getting hit when it was parked (prior to my owning it). It also had the same issues with the soft top, and makes all kinds of noises, most of which I'm pretty sure are just normal rattles, and the rest are just the tires needing balancing or whatever. I got a used silver hardtop for $600. I live with the patches on the softtop, since they work just fine, and I figure I'll pay $200 for the timing belt parts come summer (I have 48k on it now). I might go to a junkyard for a fender; pick and pulls are usually pretty cheap, and I figure that'll be like $100 if I put some work into it. Your car is in essentially similar shape. I wouldn't give up on it now; just look into cheaper fixes and doing work yourself. EDIT: Cheap solicitation: Anyone got a front left fender for a '99 NB? 
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Jan 8, 2009 03:09
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bladernr posted:You're right... I did. And thanks to you, I have to forget it all over again I love this. On the one hand, it's a "89 pre production import (hiroshima japan may 89) titled as 90 miata," and yet it has "no worn ragtop (instead a $1500 hardtop was added), all those other items were removed prior to my purchasing the car to lighten it and give it better handling after the turbocharger was installed." You can have it one way or the other. Either it's a unique model that's worth a bit more because it remained stock and has proof of its uniqueness, or it's a heavily modified car that isn't worth much of anything without a great deal of paperwork proving it was not only done competently but also that it's been taken care of since. You don't rip the soft-top out of a car and magically charge an additional several thousand for it. I love how he says "This is the way I bought it around a year ago" as though that makes any difference. "Oh, I guess it MUST be true then." I hope for his sake the guy selling is a 17 year old kid. haha -- "...hardtop (matches color scheme), kenwood stereo system, custom painted hardtop to match car..." The hardtop is so awesome he noted it twice.
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Jan 31, 2009 15:55
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GoblinBomb posted:My 1990 was built in Hiroshima in April of 1989, does that make it a rare pre-production import too!?!? Hell if I know. I was taking it as his bragging about it being some sort of rare model regardless of whether it was or not; the greater point is that even if this was the one Miata Mickey Mouse hosed Goofy in, it's ruined by the fact that it's been modified so heavily, but he doesn't realize it.
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Feb 1, 2009 05:10
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Make sure the top is in absolute top shape, especially for that price. Also, that the timing belt has been changed if it's anywhere near 60,000 or above. For $8k you should be able to get a cherry NB. And I paid $6000 for a '99 with 45k, so shoot lower on the mileage. Unless you're in LA or some other place where prices are inflated.
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Feb 9, 2009 04:25
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So prior to my owning the car, it was hit in the front driver's quarter by a hit-and-run while parked. This has sort of dinged the wheel well pretty good with maybe a dozen dime-sized dents, maybe a few millimeters deep each. My first thought is to find another Emerald Mica '99 in a junkyard and to grab the quarter off that, but I've been reading up on painless dent removal as well; does anyone have any recommendations from similar experience? Sorry for the lack of pics; my digital camera decided it hated me soon after I bought it.
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Mar 4, 2009 20:09
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I was thinking along those lines; if the fender is <$150, I'm better off with it, since I already know how to replace it. My only issue is finding an emerald mica one, but from what I understand, emerald mica was about the most common color that year anyhow, so it shouldn't be as hard as, say, yellow might be.
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Mar 4, 2009 22:17
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Skyssx posted:My eyes are even with the top of the wind screen frame. The eyebrows and up are all in the roof area. Same story on the S2000, Solstice, 350Z and even the Corvette. I can fit in the CTS, the M3 or a Camaro (maybe). The RX-8 is doable but the back seat would be utterly worthless. Considering half the cars you looked at don't have back seats, I'm not sure why a usable one is high on your list.
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Mar 7, 2009 14:35
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So my '99 has rust on the driver-side rocker panel just beneath the door; I hadn't noticed it until today (I've owned the car since last August). It's bubbling up under the paint, and the bubbles are large enough that I'm sure I'd find it's eaten through at spots. Can I cut this out, weld a plate in, and repaint? Would bondo be a better idea? I can weld (though I've never used a cutting torch), so the former idea wouldn't be horrid, so long as I can get ahold of a welder (which shouldn't be too bad). EDIT: According to Miata.net, it appears I'd use an angle grinder to get the bad part out. This might be doable at my current skill level; I'll ask my welding teacher (night courses woo!) if he doesn't mind my using his welder for extra-curricular activity... George RR Fartin fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Mar 13, 2009 |
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Mar 13, 2009 22:36
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Anybody got an extra soft-top with frame available? I've got a '99, but honestly, any top that doesn't leak is better than a glass window top that does. Two nice, huge tears at the corners I've patched with vinyl...poorly.
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Apr 3, 2009 17:45
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Well, gorilla glue and vinyl patches didn't work, and now it looks like someone tried to caulk the corners of my softtop. Does anyone know a sealant/adhesive that actually works to patch vinyl? I sewed a patch into the bottom part, so at this point something that just covers the godawful mess of the corners would be nice. When my tax return comes in, new softtop, here I come.
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Apr 27, 2009 16:02
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Can anyone recommend a mechanic in Massachusetts (just south of Boston preferably, but I can be dropped off on a w/e if it's really far out) to do the following: 1. Replace my soft top? 2. Weld a patch panel into my driver's side rocker? Conversely, anyone know of junkyards in the MA/RI area that might have Miatas I can go through for, say, a soft-top on frame...and a driver-side quarter? I know of a few in RI, but I haven't been there in a decade for the pick n' pulls, so I don't know if the ones I used to frequent are even viable.
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May 7, 2009 15:39
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kimbo305 posted:I think there's a couple CL Miata ads local to Boston that had extra soft tops. You might want to check into those. I checked CL and found none; the one I did find (a month or so ago) sold it before I got to him. Did you have the links around?
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May 7, 2009 22:06
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compton rear end terry posted:Does anyone know around how much it costs for a new drivers side window? My car was broken into. Then why does the cost matter? The kids are paying for the glass, right?
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May 13, 2009 14:56
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Best price on labor in Massachusetts I can find for a soft top replacement is $450. That's JUST for labor; other shops seem to go from $500-700(!!). Online messageboards seem to indicate this is slightly high; am I just reading really old posts?
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May 13, 2009 21:48
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Someone on miata.net found that the warm temps are due to the seal at the rear of the hood being less than air tight; subsequently, hot air from the engine compartment is rammed right into the vent for the heater, so regardless of whether you want that air coming in or not, it does. His resolution was to fill the rubber seal with a thin foam window seal (something like what you'd use on the windows in your house). This would puff the seal up a bit and make it air-tight again.
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May 16, 2009 14:08
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pacheco posted:http://tinyurl.com/rbskwz The rear sure is riding high. I got a '99 with 45k for $6 grand even, but it had a boatload of (noticable) issues. Just make sure there's no rust in the sills, the drain tubes are clear, etc... maybe this guy doesn't know it's spring yet or something. Also, the red is bright enough in the pics that it could be covered in dimples and I wouldn't be able to tell.
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May 19, 2009 12:39
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So I found a nice top/frame off miata.net I'm interested in, and it's a decent price, but still in the price range of "I don't want to get screwed on this deal by not receiving what I paid for" What's the best way to pay for the top/shipping that I can pull out of if it's not sent? Cashier's check? Personal check?
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May 21, 2009 15:07
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Hog Obituary posted:Doesn't credit card via PayPal give you a reasonable amount of protection? (I've never actually tried to dispute anything with PayPal, but they sure try to make it seem safe) I've heard horror stories about paypal, most of which relate to the fact that since they're not an actual bank, they don't have to follow any rules or guidelines set up for banks to offer protection. That and there was a period of issues SA had with paypal several years back, which means I'm not trusting it for anything big. Also, my credit limit is $300, which is too low for the purchase (I know myself and intentionally got such a low limit for "emergencies only").
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May 21, 2009 17:18
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Makes sense. Ebay apparently recommends escrow.com, so I emailed the guy asking if that'd be cool or if he has any services he prefers (if he does, I'm certainly checking into those services thoroughly). The credit card idea might work in a pinch, though. Thanks, guys!
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May 22, 2009 14:43
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So I have a lead on an NB top and frame for my '99, which has the typical-for-the-year horrific wear holes in the corners. It's apparently in perfect shape, and I can drive to pick it up. Thing is, the Miata isn't a pickup truck, so I don't know what I'm gonna do when I get there. I have a hard top, so my best idea was to remove the soft top, but leave it in closed position, put the hard top on, and when I get there, put the new soft top in the old one's place (just not bolted down until I get back). I've never done the top before. Is removal relatively easy? From what I can tell, installation involves making sure the rain rail's dead-on, but removal wouldn't have such a requirement. What's the general consensus on how long removal should take? (I can install at my leisure when I get home, I just don't want to inconvenience the guy selling the top or drive 2+ hours just to find I can't pick it up). I'm in MA, so travelling sans top is not an option. There have been three days in the last thirty that haven't been rain, and the next ten look to be more of the same (except today, which is a "break" in the rain, but not in the clouds).
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Jun 25, 2009 19:37
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Phone posted:Borrow a friend's minivan or truck. That bad, eh? It's an option (or at least, a large car might be), but if I can just do it myself, that'd be preferable.
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Jun 25, 2009 19:45
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Phone posted:The problem is to get the softtop out, you have to do quite a bit of work. You might be able to just let it loosely sit on the parcel shelf, but I'm not sure how much luck you'd have with that. Blech. Well, onto plan B: mooch off friends.
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Jun 25, 2009 20:17
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Phone posted:This is how you remove it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLkMVAE3ZaA&feature=PlayList&p=1F7D4222F3822DE2&index=1 Funny thing is, I watched that episode within the last two months or so. For some reason, all I recall is when they removed the window, cut the rust from the pillar, welded in the patch, filled it, and painted. It all looked so easy, but I know it totally wasn't. Oh, and I remember the silly chrome poo poo they threw in. Got a sale, so whatever. Thanks for the link. I'll check it over when I get home.
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Jun 25, 2009 20:43
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Couldn't find a friend with a large car to go that far of a trip. Top removal report: An hour and a half, give or take. Only unexpected part was the additional zip ties used for the defroster cable; these showed up as I lifted the top/frame out of the car. Luckily, my girlfriend was coming down to help (just as I was finishing...hm), and she snipped the ties with scissors. Out of 10 difficulty... Maybe a 2. It's just time consuming, but otherwise it's all pop rivets and "Can I just tear this upwards? Oh, I can." Under the top is FILTHY. I'm gonna pick the new top up tomorrow, bolt it down just so it's not jostling, and when it's sunny again, clean the entire back before I think about sticking it in. I can see the rain rail being a bit of a PITA to get back in; any tips? Also, aside from checking wear points and the new rain rail, anything I should be aware of looking at the new top/frame tomorrow?
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Jun 27, 2009 17:21
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iscariot posted:Protip for the rotors rusted to hub: There's a threaded screw hole on the rotor. Find the appropriate bolt, insert, torque down, and they'll pop right off. A lot of cars do this. My old Sentra had the same feature, which I learned of after bashing both front rotors off with a rubber mallet. My wrists rang for weeks.
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Jul 2, 2009 15:07
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