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n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Can we have a little chat about tops for the Miata? My top has completely poo poo the bed, but I have a hardtop to last me through the winter. I use my softtop maybe 5-10 times a year when it rains. So, I really need about the cheapest top available, but I don't want to have to pull my hair out installing it.

I've read that you can get the robbins tops with the rain rail already put on? What is the best option for ease of install and cost. Frankly, I'd rather pay more for an easy to install top.

How long does it take an average person to put a top on? How much should I expect to pay in labor to have a top put on. I'm a cheap bastard, but I really don't want to take on a project that will drive me crazy.

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n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Looks like they sell the tops with the frame already on as well.
http://www.planetmiata.com/top.html

Anyone have any experience with those?

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I think cars over 10 years old are exempt from odometer reporting. That seems normal to me.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Anyone else have a stinky fuel smelling Miata? I replaced the fuel cap, and checked the piping that runs into the tank and it all seems solid. My research on Miata.net didn't seem to help with much. The smell seems to really collect in the trunk as well.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
How could you have trouble with the top? You must have been doing something wrong.

I bought Bilsteins for my Miata a while back, and I've been very happy with them. The miata.net people say they are a bit firmer then stock, but last a good long time. No complaints from me so far.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

grover posted:

Not difficult, just not as easy- visors were in the way for both latches on the NC, and you have to lean way over to undo the passenger's side. Have you done the top on an NC? It's a single latch in the middle vice 2 on the sides, and you can do it 1-handed in 2 seconds without effort or even really stretching. You can raise the top, too, without ever unbuckling your seatbelt. Doing the tops on an NB and NC back-to back, it was like night and day. Boxster has a similar latch as the NC, but the top is powered, and even easier because it automatically cracks the windows for you, too. I imagine the power hard-top on the miata is similar.

Sorry the way I read your post I thought you were talking about the NB top.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I'm not trying to talk you out of buying a Boxster at all. Apparently they're great cars and I'd definitely consider one. When I looked at the Edmunds true cost to own spreadsheet a 2003 Boxster still loses out in a TCO calculation by $7k over five years:
http://www.edmunds.com/apps/cto/CTOintroController

Actually the numbers you came up with were totally different, so I really am not sure where yours were coming from. I would think that you could possibly find an NC slightly used for a real nice price. I'm not sure how well the NC has even been selling to be honest.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
In regard to the Edmunds TCO numbers, they always seem a bit high. The only good I see them being is for an apples to apples comparison. If X car is twice as expensive per mile then Y car it's probably correct. The actual numbers break down is suspect at best I'd imagine.

EDIT:
Does anyone have a good working NA radio they want to sell me? Preferably something that bolts right up to a '92.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
For aux in with an NA stereo there are these things called tape adapters. I know you young kids may have never heard of them.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I'm pretty seriously considering the new BEGI kit. I never really wanted much more then about 150whp for my Miata, but the JRSC and the Greddy kits didn't seem very well made. Apparently the BEGI people want a "development" 1.6 and 1.8, I have no idea what that means, but I'll see if I can get in on that.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
RUN AWAY HE'S TRYING TO FLEECE YOU FOR $350!!!

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I like the Bilsteins I put on my '92. From my research they hold up rather well and the ride is supposedly a bit firmer then stock. I'm not raging around on my car, so ymmv.

Savington: What alignment numbers are those? I know there are a lot of named alignments out there. I was going to get the "flying miata" alignment this spring.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I'm looking to buy a basic Robbins vinyl top with rain rail installed. I'm thinking of buying the top from here:
http://www.gomiata.com/robvintopwpl.html

Paying $350 to have it installed at a popular shop in town, seems like a decent deal.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
What are the current thoughts on alignments for a '92 stock Miata, just typical street / not racing/autoxing. I am thinking of going with the Flyin' Miata alignment since I've read it has good tire wear and is decent for street driving.

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/alignment.php

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

Phone posted:

I think most/all of the VLSDs by 60k are considered open diffs.

I've got a '92 with the VLSD, and while I don't autocross the thing, it still works well enough to spin both tires all the time in the snow. It's definitely been nice to have for snow driving. I've got redline in the rearend, but I've only had the car since 63k.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

Cenuji posted:

My stupidity with not checking my oil regularly finally caught up with me. It caused a spun bearing on my 99. Now it looks like I need to either rebuild the engine for $4400 or get a used one put in for $3400. Is there any reason to spend the extra $1000 on the rebuild? Is that just a gently caress off price because it sucks to do a rebuild?

Wow you REALLY need to shop around for motors. I believe good motors can be had for less then what you are talking about. This is just one option:
http://planetmiata.com/01-05_pricing.htm

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

ethanol posted:

I just got offered a fully restored 1979 rx-7 that's probably in the best shape of any rx-7 I've ever seen from a friend in a Mercedes dealer. It's pretty much as if it just warped into 2008 from 1979. Anyways, I don't know anything about mazdas and from what I can tell, it looks a little slow.. what do you guys think?

I've owned one, they are fun old cars, I guess my question is do you really want one? They are reliable but get quite terrible gas mileage, you'll be looking at 15ish mixed I imagine. I owned one that had 280k miles on the chassis, and it made it 220k on the first engine. Overall, it was still in very good condition.

The aftermarket is great for the cars, and replacement parts can be found cheaply through junkyards and rx7 forums.

I think they are fun cars to drive, they handle well for what they are, and the rotary engine is like nothing else.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

Frank Dillinger posted:

well, I bought it. Looks nice with the black paint/white hardtop, and wan't too bad on the 'bahn, either. I'm getting it reg'd monday, and will do an engine was first thing so I can pinpoint exactly where the gunk came from. there's definitely fresh oil from the CAS or valve cover, and we'll see where things go from there.

also, I've got mad lifter tick. I'm going to do a oil change with a thinner oil and add a bottle of motor flush. then drive a few days, let that out, and put in clean oil + hydraulic lifter additive that apparently, magically, gets rid of it. here's hoping!

Nope it won't. Miata engines tick like mad.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Does anyone have any ideas for replacing a front bumper cover, front left fender, and a rear bumper cover. I'm checking to see if planetmiata.com carries used parts in decent shape in that color. The paint on my car is in pretty sad shape, so I don't need anything perfect.

How tough is it to remove bumper covers and a front left panel? I'm not real afraid to tear something apart. The one link I've found makes it look like it's not a real big deal.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
The VLSD on my '92 works well enough to still spin both tires in the snow just fine at 80k. It really does help the snow performance quite a bit.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Anyone have a spare set of cloth seats they want to sell that would fit a '91? I think any NAs would work.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

pacheco posted:

I took the wheels off my 2007 yesterday to see how bad the rotor rust was from it sitting on the lot 8+ months, but it wasn't bad, all surface rust.

I did notice my car has Bilstein shocks, naaaiiiiicceeee.

Why would a car rust if it was just sitting in a parking lot anyway? Why are you parking a 2 year old car for 8 months?

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

Sten Freak posted:

This is probably old news but I can say the Miata NA is not a snow/ice car. I had a really scary drive home last night managing to put it sideways once (my fault), and just barely getting away from one stop sign. Of course it's got summer stickies on it too. Only reason I drove it is DD is in a body shop.

I'm not sure how many times I've posted the same reply, but Miata snow performance is all about snow tires. Having a limited slip also helps with the rear traction. I've driven my Miata for four winters now and have never even gotten stuck. It's pretty snowy and hilly here, and I also drive up to the local ski area 1-2 times a week. They aren't even expensive snow tires, just a set of Dunlop Graspics. The one time I got caught out on my summer tires, I literally could not move. I almost slipped off the side of my friend's barely sloping driveway. Aside from ground clearance the Miata is a darn good snow car.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
There is a little rubber piece at the bottom of the knob holding on a lock nut. You need to loosen that.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Very good in the snow with snow tires considering how light it is and how short the wheelbase is. An LSD helps as well.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Would someone like to tell me what to try next on my cruise control on my '92?

I push the switch and it doesn't stay on. I replaced the switch and it still doesn't stay on.

Cruise actually works if I leave the switch pushed on.

n8r fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Sep 3, 2010

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Someone want to tell me what/where to get a replacement for my motorized NA radio antenna? I just want something cheap and relatively easy to hook up.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Anyone in Wa need a Miata? This seems like a great deal:
http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/1988858954.html

So no opinions at all on replacement antennae?

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

-Inu- posted:

How much of a noise reduction will a hard top give at speed on the interstate? I love my miata but the sucker is really loud on the interstate and I never put the top down anyways so I'm looking into hardtops.

It's not worth the cost of a hardtop if that's why you want one. They are still noisy as hell. Just drive with earplug style headphones (yes I know it's illegal).

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Nevermind.

n8r fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Oct 18, 2010

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Does anyone want a Boss Frog test pipe for a 1.8l? It's in fine shape, but the seller said it was for a 1.6 so now I don't have anything there but air. $45 shipping anywhere in the states. It's in fine shape, just a little rusty at the ends but it'd work great.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
If you can confirm it's the stock cat I don't see why not.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Well whatever if someone wants it they can PM me.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I resolved the issue by taking my car down without any exhaust and having the local sketchy muffler pipe weld in a tube for $30.

At any rate my Greddy turbo kit seems to be done.

Click here for the full 1280x960 image.


That's not worth clicking on because it's a terrible picture. Install was pretty easy overall, had a few snags but that's to be expected. I'm happy with the power it's making, it's just enough to give the car some passing power. That's really all I wanted.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

aventari posted:

99 Miata on the other hand

4825.2 miles
187.812 gallons 91

25.69 mpg :pwn:

edit: removed track days

Don't the 99s just take 87?

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

IOwnCalculus posted:

I was going to say, even if it is a VLSD then it's an open diff by now anyway :v:

Not that I drive my car hard enough in the dry to need it, but in the winter my VLSD still works well enough with 90k on it to spin both tires. I think having the LSD for winter handling really helps.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
$2100 miata on my local CL here in Leavenworth WA:
http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/2064090917.html

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

Tactical Bonnet posted:

I also need to do that, but find that I can't get the shift knob off of my 95M, Whenever I give it and real twist the lever feels like it's starting to flex and scares me out of doing anything. This is also a problem because of my previously mentioned radio issues, because if I can't get the knob off I can't yank the console to release the rest of the console to change the head unit.

Any ideas? Two pipe wrenches? I'm at a loss, myself.

Is it the Nardi knob? It has a little set screw underneath the wood part of the shifter. Just pull down the rubber and it takes a very small little hex wrench.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
My '92 black and tan does.

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n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

dur posted:

Just want to make sure I'm doing this right before I spend money. My dumb Miata has been making the wheel bearing noise, and it goes away when I turn right and louder when I turn left. That means I need the right side bearing, right?

Also, while I'm doing this, I'm going to replace my brakes, too. I know some of the higher performance pads have to heat up a bit before they really start to work well, and it gets awfully cold here in Minnesota. Would the Hawk HP+ work well here, or should I go with something a little less aggressive?

I would go ahead and replace both bearings, but yes it's your right bearing.

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