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mobn posted:Yeah, the heat shields on Miatas really don't do poo poo, except for keep you from setting the lawn on fire if you have a redneck parking lot in your front yard. Well they also keep your rear end from getting really warm. I noticed a lot of heat soaking up through the floor when I had the shields off from the cat back. The welds like to break from time to time which is a pain in the rear end though.
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Jan 9, 2009 19:19
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 20:47 |
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If the price difference is roughly linear going from 1.6 to 1.8 cars then go with the 1.8. The differential in the 1.6 is fairly weak and will need to be replaced soon after 150hp or a clutch upgrade. It also doesn't like clutch drops at all. I'm trying to source one and an rx7 clutch LSD and I'll be lucky to get it all done for under 1000. That's for all the parts alone, doing the work myself. It's kinda nuts.
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Mar 11, 2009 20:48
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Phone posted:The price is linear because the older the car is, the older it is. If you have a 1.6 with the VLSD, it's now an open differential. 100 NECKBREAKING HP (and ft-lbs of torque) BREAK THE poo poo OUT OF THE CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION DUDEMANBRO. If you dump the clutch with an open diff, you'll spin one wheel. I'm in Vancouver where we have crazy prices for crazy reasons. 90-93 can be had for 3-4k anytime. 94-95 and suddenly people want 6k *minimum*, usually 7 or 8. As for the diff I was referring to going FI, the 6" diffs break under much lower power levels than the 7" from 94 up, no I don't have proof and no I don't mean that it's loving instant. It's one of those things that goes on the list as you start turning up the boost so if the price difference in your area isn't insane like mine than it's worth it to go for the 94+ models. Are you actually going to say that I'm wrong on that? destructo posted:Yes, the 1.8 diff is stronger, but dumping out retarded blanket statements like X needs to be replaced after X HORSEPOWERS is stupid. Fine. They're just not as good then and I'd worry about mine. How about 'you have cheaper options with a 1.8 than a 1.6 for later upgrades'? It's really just a reflection of my local market. Me: Ring ring Junkyard: Hi Me: I want a differential from a 94+ miata Junkyard: That'll be $400 for an open, $800 for torsen. Me: Does that include half-shafts and a driveshaft? Junkyard: No. Me: I'm in the wrong business. Edit: Searching miataturbo.net suggests 200hp or so before people get nervous/hear strange noises, so long as you baby it a bit. Again, unqualified and out of my rear end. Miata.nets' garage section suggests that it can fail under stock power. Dragon's-Maw fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Mar 12, 2009 |
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Mar 12, 2009 02:33
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Jesus, I want to be where you are, those prices with or without hardtop? I got my 90 with HT for 2.5 and felt like a thief in the night. Crank was about to bite it so power was way down which is why I managed to get it in that range. The owner thought it was going to just up and die any day. For mungtor though, if the difference between a 90-93 and 94-95 is less than 1000 I'd spring for the 94. The short list of upgraded parts is the diff, higher displacement with no real penalty in economy and bigger brakes. I'm not sure how to spot smaller things though like the difference between an open and torsen visually. Anything with power windows is a B or C package. If I remember right R packages' are guaranteed to have the torsen but I can't find anything to quote for it. The link from miata.nets' garage is vague on that. Stock hardtops are supposed to have defroster windows as well. Oh and the stock wheels are lighter. 94 retains the real oil pressure gauge as opposed to 95s' dummy light.
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Mar 12, 2009 10:31
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If the paypal account you use to pay with your credit card is linked to an actual bank account paypal's TOS allows them to debit it. Should your dispute be found invalid (i.e. all the seller has to do it provide a tracking number) you could do a chargeback on your credit card. Paypal will promptly take your money out of your bank account anyway. This is why you see people setting up two accounts all the time. One way around this is to make two separate accounts, credit card and bank account linked. Transfer the difference from your bank account to the credit card linked account and pay the total from there. I don't know if your credit card allows it but I can carry a balance that is also reflected in my credit available. So my credit is $500 and I want something that's 800? Pay 300 extra, wait 5 minutes and pay directly with it. Visa through Vancity. I'd be surprised if you couldn't do the same. You can call them and ask though.
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May 22, 2009 12:54
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fatman1683 posted:Probably something in the suspension, although coming from the right side while turning right seems counterintuitive. Something down there may need greasing, or your balljoint could be on its way out. I had something similar which turned out to be the upper passenger A-arm on it's way out. The bushing in it was cracked as all hell. Replaced with a junkyard part from a rear end collision car and all was well. My symptom was a bit more specific though, clunking as that side went up or down. Happened more often in turns but also occurred going straight over speed bumps so it was easier for me to diagnose. It'll be hard to tell without lifting the car and taking the wheel off to examine though.
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Jul 10, 2009 23:45
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Ziploc posted:How does the trunk work on those fastback things? I assume this works the same way as the S2000 one. But I have no idea how that works either. If I remember right, it doesn't.
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Dec 12, 2009 12:50
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aventari posted:Yesterday I installed new springs, shocks and swaybars on my 99. I thought the Miata was a nice handling go-cart before, but now it's totally sweet. gently caress, I was thinking of going along this line too except maybe Bilstein HD's instead. Then I got a pretty good deal on a used set of Gaz coilovers in roughly the same spring rate. Now I'm debating selling one or the other... How's 325f/275r working out for you? And why didn't you cut the rear bumpstop? I thought that was where you needed more travel compared to fronts.
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Jan 26, 2010 00:40
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The stock shocks are in surprisingly good shape. I would guess they would last another 60k.
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Feces Starship posted:2.) When I was looking to buy the car I brought it to a mechanic to have them evaluate the car. I was told that the condition was excellent but that one of the cylinders was losing compression, but still within "Mazda specifications" whatever that might mean. I was told they had ruled out a cracked piston or block or a blown head gasket. I bought it anyway and drove it all of last summer without much of an issue; gas mileage was lower than expected (about 24 with combined highway/city driving) but I otherwise noticed no issues. I understand how a car works mechanically but I lack the know-how to repair anything myself. Is this something I need to have a mechanic fix? If so, will this be a big deal? Will it be very expensive? Do you have the actual compression numbers? Ideally your highest and lowest compression numbers should be within 5% of each other or better. Over (a long) time they will all lose a bit of compression until you hit the bottom of spec. I don't have numbers for the 1.8 memorized but 1.6's came with ~190psi from the factory and the service manual says that 135 is the lowest acceptable. Once you're in that range you're looking at a head rebuild and if feasible replacing piston rings. Head rebuild for me was $650 sticking to stock specs. I pulled the head out myself following the manual instructions and that took a bit more than an hour with hand tools. Rings are a bitch though because the big end of the conrod can't fit through the cylinder. You have to pull apart the bottom. If you're not OCD about perfect condition doing the head alone can be worth the effort to get you a few more years of life from the engine. 24MPG seems normal to me for an older engine in city driving. I've never cracked 30 even on the highway but mine was at 134-132-138-133. The only way to get more than that would be to stay under 4000rpm forever with a good oxygen sensor and that's no fun. Dragon's-Maw fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Apr 11, 2011 |
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Apr 11, 2011 00:07
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