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So, I'm doing the midlife-crisis-on-a-budget thing and just got myself an MX-5 (1997, 1.8): Not new to cars in general or Mazdas (have owned a couple of 323's with the same engine), but new to this car. A few cosmetic issues, but mechanically everything seems to be in really good shape. Just needs an exhaust leak fixed and new rear brake rotors, and a new rear plastic window. Planning to later make it more trackday-ish with new coilovers, slightly bigger tires and better front brakes. Maybe a roll bar so I can have some theoretical chance of not being decapitated in case I roll it. ionn fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 13:03
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leica posted:Don't bother with the roll bar unless you're going to track it for sure, on the street the chances are it will hurt you more than it helps you. I do indeed plan on taking it on track (trackdays and open sessions, no actual racing). Have never crashed a car on track, let alone flipped it, but poo poo does happen there. Just something that could help in a rollover would give me peace of mind. I'm not going for those "style bars", but a more proper one with braces rearward. Not sure how much of a hassle it is installing them though. They bolt in, sure, but I wonder how well everything does line up and how much will I have to cut away in panels and stuff to get it in. First step is still to get it through the Swedish yearly safety inspection (the exhaust leak and rear brakes and stuff, shouldn't be a big deal). Once that's sorted, I'll look at roll bar, new struts and some fresh rubber for track-worthiness. If I get stiffer suspension, how helpful will it be with strut bars front and/or back, or things like stiffer sway barsr? I don't want to bother with it unless it serves a good purpose, the fancy looks of it doesn't particularly matter to me. Not sure how much it would do, I would guess most of the flexing of the body would be in the middle, not around the corners, but what do I know?
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Apr 23, 2015 19:08
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Phone posted:Roll/Flip: https://youtu.be/qMmjaaSQP08 That is precisely why I want a roll bar / cage thing behind me. Without that, everything that sticks up above the sides of the car is likely dead. The photos linked in the description show something similar to what I'm aiming for.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:14
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MattD1zzl3 posted:If you can deal with a fixed back seat and all the hassles that come with that you can daily drive safely with a roll bar. What are these hassles of which you speak? The roll bars I've been looking at claim full seat movement and I'm not too tall (just under 5'9" and short legs) so I won't have the seat all the way back anyway. I'm considering a "double-hoop" roll bar to avoid having too much stuff in the way when raising the top from inside the car, and also to make it feel less "closed in". How much will the roll bar bug me? I do not want to be on track without a roll bar anyway and one big reason for even getting an MX-5 was for track driving, so I'll have to live with whatever problems come with the roll bar. Might enjoy a month or so of just regular driving before I get it though.
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Apr 24, 2015 07:21
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Atomizer posted:I was a little surprised that he never lost his poo poo and started yelling/swearing. I'd be pretty pissed if that happened to my car, although I'm sure I'd be shaken up too. I've seen a few people crash stuff on track (and met them afterwards), and most are surprisingly cool about it. Especially compared to how people react to less severe incidents (with insured cars) on normal roads. Though it might be a thing among race drivers to just pretend not to care about the car as long as no people got badly damaged, and then go home and cry in solitude. Never had anything dramatic or expensive happen to me yet other than a couple of close calls and those sure made my heart race.
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Apr 24, 2015 07:33
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I wouldn't really call that "hassles" so much as "alternative ways of getting killed". Making wild guesses on the likelihood of flipping it (on track or otherwise), versus being hit hard from behind during un-helmeted normal driving, and the risk of then hitting the bar, I would still much rather go with the roll bar. I have never been to a track day with a Miata (since I got it literally a few days ago) so I don't know what they say of one with no roll bar, but on the Nordschleife I have definitely seen them run without. And that did not seem very safe, given how easy it is to have a nasty crash there. Are there any other troubles I could run into, like getting the top up or down?
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Apr 24, 2015 09:14
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leica posted:It probably doesn't matter to you, but if you drive with the top down a lot like I do, roll bars make it a pain in the rear end putting the top up or down, especially if you have a two piece. I would have thought the "double hoop" bar would be less in the way when putting the top up or down as you can grab it and lift it all the way, as opposed to the "full width" bars where there is one length of tubing up top.
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Apr 24, 2015 21:47
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I got a 1.8 NA (1997), with no AC in it. Here's what the controls look like, if that is of any relevance (and for those of you who have never seen a Miata without AC): There seems to be something wonky with the ductwork in it, as the "down at my feet" vent blows really really hot air. When I have the lever in any of the positions that sends air downwards (the three middle ones), it seems I'm getting the hottest air possible. The air through the other vents that might be blowing at the same time is cool. If I have heat on and the lever in the leftmost position (through the four round dash vents) and then move it to the second position (those same vents + feet), the air through the dash vents gets noticeably cooler (but still a little bit heated) while I get the furnace going down below. So, it just seems almost all the heat ends up going straight down there for some reason. Only exception is if I have the heater lever far left, then I get cool air all around, feet included. Just one little bit above that, it gets hot. I haven't really thought much about it except today when it was cold and raining and I needed the defroster, and my feet got awfully warm. Would like to sort it out. What could be wrong or broken to cause this?
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Jun 14, 2015 22:01
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leica posted:That's pretty normal for Miatas, you're getting hot air from the engine bay coming into the cabin into the pocket of air that is the footwell. Replacing the seal between the firewall and hood can help if it's shot. Otherwise just keep the air selector on circulate to minimize it. You can also buy an air scoop that brings in outside air and forces it into the footwell to get out any of the hot air that lingers in there. I haven't tried one yet but people seem to love them. I also first thought it was stray heat from the engine/exhaust/gearbox/something, but it doesn't add up. If I have the thing set to "blow at my feet only" (the middle position) and I have the "temperatyre" lever all the way to the left / blue, I get cool air (unheated outside air), even when everything is up at full working temp. If I move the lever one little bit away from far left, I get full heat. It is as far as I can tell the same temperature through the lower vents at "just slightly off full left / blue" as it is in "far right / red", and at full heat I get the same temperature at my feet as through the other vents. When I have no heat going at all (heater all the way to blue, fan off), I don't notice any heat coming through from the engine. Only thing is the shifter boot seems a bit warm, everything else seems well insulated. How does the ventilation ducts work for the Miata? Other cars I've seen first have one barn door valve thing for selecting/blending hot and cold air, and then something to send it to various exhaust ports. The thing I can think of that would explain what I believe I'm seeing is if the NA Miata has a separate hot/cold blend door for the lower vents and that one is stuck open, and the only time I get cold air there is at "full cold" when the actual hot water supply to the heater core is shut. But I may just be imagining things. Edit: Found a service manual with an exploded view of the whole heater/ventilation system, and it seems there are two doors for air-mix (hot/cold) and four other doors for airflow mode (which vents are used). I guess I'll have to take that unit apart to check, but it seems to me one of the air-mix doors could just be stuck open. ionn fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 10:49
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Installed some new stuff this weekend. New brakes, coilovers, and a rollbar!   
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Jun 22, 2015 06:58
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Larrymer posted:Those rotors, man. Is that some coating or paint? I imagine it's not gonna last long... Just seems decorative (think it's powder-coat). Comes right off as soon as you use the brakes. Does make the "unused" surface of the rotors look nicer though, I hope they will stay non-rusty. Crappy phone pic of what the disc looks like after being not-quite-yet-worn-in:  The wheels have been spray-painted by some PO. Looks like some regular random non-wheel-paint spray can done with the wheels on the car, as various other parts were covered as well (brake calipers, pads, rotors, hoses and some of the suspension bits), which is the main reason I bothered painting the calipers while changing the brakes. Will repaint the wheels as soon as I can be bothered, at least it doesn't look completely horrendous from a distance.
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Jun 22, 2015 17:44
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n8r posted:What is this stuff? It looks like horrible Chinese poo poo. Did you buy these parts off aliexpress? Coilovers are horrible Chinese poo poo (MDU). The brakes and roll bar are both horrible english poo poo (EBC and TR Lane respectively). Everything else is original horrible japanese poo poo.
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Jun 22, 2015 20:28
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Yesterday I had my 1.8 NA out on track for the first time. Everything worked perfectly, somewhat to my surprise. Hilarious amounts of grip, but severely lacking in horsepower (at least for that kind of track). I managed to pass and pull away from a guy in a Ferrari 348 though.  
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Jul 7, 2015 08:53
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This weekend I replaced the soft top on my Montego Blue 1997 NA. I got basically the cheapest 3rd party top I could find in Europe. The top that came on the car (not sure if original or not) was for some inexplicable reason tan. Ok, if the interior had been tan, sure, have a tan top, but when it matches literally nothing else on the car? It actually surprised me how much difference it made. Not only did it make the car look better color-wise with a black top and gives me a non-broken window that actually keeps rain out, but it also just looks so much better when it's actually tight and not sagging everywhere. It was a bit of an ordeal, especially having to fabricate a new tension cable out of a wire from an IKEA lamp and some electric crimp connectors (the passenger side was broken, which I hadn't noticed earlier). But me and my brother pulled it off. Happy now. 
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Jul 27, 2015 22:48
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Atomizer posted:My '97 STO had a tan top, with black & tan interior. The exterior was the same color as yours, too, as far as I can tell, just with a different name (Twilight Blue Mica.) I don't have any photos readily available though, but I can find some if you're interested. I guess blue & tan & black might sound like a strange color combo but I thought it looked fine. The color didn't look horrible, I just thought it was odd with nothing else on the car being that color. The interior is all black. I'm suddenly a bit unsure of what color my car actually is. I just assumed it was Montego Blue Mica (that's the one it looked the most similar to, given photos I've seen), but maybe it's Twilight Blue? It came with the 5-spoke 15x6" Enkei wheels* that apparently came with the STO/Limited in 1997, and that was Twilight Blue. I just assumed I had bought a "regular car", not some special edition thing. Some of this is confused by the fact that this is a Euro-MX5, not sure if the various editions/colors/years match up (all web sites I find reference north-american stuff). I've seen the color code but never bothered to take note of it, guess I'll have to go and check what it says (M8 or 12K or something else).  *) Obviously not on car at the moment, those are off to be repainted.
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Jul 28, 2015 17:24
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Viper915 posted:Speaking of tops, I'm due to replace the soft top on my NA. How hard is it to do, really? I managed to replace my top in a few hours work (with the help of my brother), having no prior experience with it. I'm decently handy with general car mechanic stuff, but this was a bit different. The trickiest bits (apart from not having a replacement tension cable at hand) was getting the new top into those three "channels" on the frame (patience + lube is the path to success) and just putting the whole assembly back on the car without breaking the old fragile rain rail. Other than that, while there are many steps to it none of them are particularly difficult. I may have been lucky with the fit, but there were no problems there whatsoever.
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Jul 28, 2015 17:32
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Atomizer posted:You may be able to run your VIN by Mazda and see what they can tell you about your car. Maybe it's been repainted and was originally supposed to be a different color, etc. You can also take a peek at the factory colors here: http://www.miata.net/gallery/na.html Those photos was the first thing I looked a while back, and I just thought my car looked more like the Montego blue one, probably biased by the assumption that I didn't have some limited edition thing. The sticker inside the passenger door says the color code is 12K, which should be Twilight Blue. vindecoderz agrees with that, and also says (among various other abbreviations) "SP-ED" which I assume is "Special Edition", as well as "EXC.BILSTEIN DAMP". When I took them out, nothing on them said "Bilstein", but I guess I'll have a closer look. So, what about that edition is "special"? It seems pretty regular to me, but I have never been inside any NA Miatas of similar year to know what to expect. And apart from the body color and Enkei wheels, it doesn't seem to have the "distinguishing features" of the 1997 STO. For example, it has black interior, and lacks the headrest speakers, sill plates and rear lip spoiler. Pretty sure the interior is all original, and no tan anywhere. I would guess this is a mostly regular MX-5 with just some of the features of it, possibly some European "not-quite-STO-but-just-slithgly-special" thing. Repost of an earlier photo of how it looked when I bought it:
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Jul 30, 2015 10:56
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Atomizer posted:you apparently have a Euro ("special edition") model with the same exterior color and rims but other differences. I can't explain why that color vinyl top was chosen for yours though. I'll just refer to mine as being the "Mom says I'm Special Edition ".Atomizer posted:I don't see a UK SE with that color & rim combo, so I'd guess a PO picked up those rims at some point. Apart from generic aftermarket floor mats, stereo, and a badly attached shifter knob, there were no signs of anything not being stock on that car. The PO who had it the longest (about 2000-2010) was a real estate agent in a fancy suburb of Stockholm, and seemed to just have had it serviced very regularly and nothing else. I don't think anyone has got those wheels later, and they would probably be very hard to find here, so it seems probable they're what came with the car new. While it is possible the top had been replaced at some point, it did look like it could be 18 years old albeit decently well cared for.
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Jul 31, 2015 18:58
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I just put these ridiculous vinyl stripes on because it obviously makes it go faster, and trackday's tomorrow. 
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Aug 2, 2015 23:05
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What should I expect/tolerate as "ok" oil consumption? I got a 1997 1.8 NA with 210000km on it (130K miles), engine is all stock. I bought it in April, and now about 5000km later it has used up about a liter. I have checked every so often (and topped up), and while eyeballing the dipstick isn't very accurate it seems most of it went during two trackdays (especially one where it was warmer and I pushed it harder). There are no externally visible oil leaks and no blue smoke out the back. To me, it doesn't seem like 1L/5000km (some of it on track) would be at all out of the ordinary for an engine 18 years old. Is it?
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Aug 24, 2015 17:53
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Phone posted:A loose/semi-awful BP can consume 1qt/1k miles, yours is about the same. If I get my strange unit conversion right, 1qt/1000 miles is about three times as much as what I'm seeing. Not worried at all, unless it gets significantly worse I can easily just top it up once in a while (it loses a little bit too much to just leave it be between oil changes).
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Aug 24, 2015 21:08
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Just parked my Miata for the winter (it's in a barn at a friends parents place an hour from where I live). While it's far from a snowy mess here yet, it's getting too cold here to run around with the top down, winter would slowly destroy it, and it doesn't hold my hockey gear. This is my first Miata that I just got in April and it has been an awesome season. Will seriously miss it until spring. That place gets cold, but it's dry. I just put on a set of crappy leftover wheels, took the battery out (will keep it indoors and charged up), no parking brake, and put a cover over it. Has decent antifreeze. I'll be there every now and then (our 24hr-lemons car is kept there) and can make sure it's free from disaster/rodents/hobos. Is there anything else I should do before winter that can't just as well be done in spring?
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Oct 4, 2015 21:23
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Atomizer posted:-Change oil & filter. I would only consider changing the oil twice with zero driving in between if there is a really really good reason for it. Is there? Most other people seem to suggest to change the oil when taking it out of storage. Assuming I don't have my oil full of water, what reason is there to change it before storing the car for 6 months as opposed to after?
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Oct 6, 2015 09:28
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leica posted:My brakes have been acting funny lately, whenever I come to a stop, it gets harder to push the pedal the further it goes in, almost like I start out with power and end up with manual brakes. Any ideas wtf? I just recently replaced the pads/rotors and flushed the fluid, only thing I can think of is the booster failing or something. On various non-miatas I have had stuck slide pins make the brakes feel all different kinds of weird, but I guess you looked those over when replacing the pads&rotors. A vacuum leak in the brake booster (or the hose connected to it) seems pretty plausible though. A friend had a crack in the brake booster diaphragm. It made a pretty distinctive "hissing" noise as soon as the brake pedal was pressed. Couldn't hear it while driving, but easily heard with hood open.
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Oct 15, 2015 08:44
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leica posted:I greased all the pins so I doubt it's that. Gonna have to check out the booster I suppose. Add it to the list! gently caress Well at least on a Miata getting to the brake booster is pretty simple. On most other cars (and basically any FWD one) there's a ton of engine crap in the way. Also, if it's just the vacuum hose (that can develop brake-killing cracks), few things are simpler to replace. I also happen to be driving a BG 1991 323F now (Miata parked over winter, sister using my Volvo). Pretty useful little thing after all. ionn fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Oct 17, 2015 |
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Oct 17, 2015 06:33
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Unless the NB is completely different from the NA (which appears not to be the case in this area), you should be fine. I had the seatbelts out when installing a rollbar, and it was dead simple. Only challenging part is getting the trim panels out without breaking fragile old plastic. I'd recommend getting some spare plastic clips since you'll likely snap a few (I got generic ones of a couple different sizes for cheap on ebay, a few bucks for a bag of 100).
ionn fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Oct 31, 2015 |
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Oct 31, 2015 22:24
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Hikaki posted:Yeah, just remember that with these clips you have to pry out the middle part first and then the whole thing comes out. I definitely broke the first one thinking I had to just pry the whole thing out. Yep, those two-part ones are what mostly hold the plastic panels in iirc (plus some regular bolts/screws). Even if you manage to poke the middle part out (I used a small flathead screwdriver or the tip of a knife), it still often breaks as old plastic is prone to do. You shouldn't need to take any carpet out to get to the seatbelts, but those are held in with clips you just pull straight out. When I did that (removed lots of carpet because roll bar), about a third of them broke. You would also need to take the "top covers" of the seatbelts to get to the big bolt underneath. They break very easily. Be very careful prying on the sides and back and you might come away with a whole one. On mine, one broke completely while the other just lost tiny bits of the plastic tabs inside that keep it in place, so while it looked ok it just wouldn't stay in place. That one I just glued in place,until I got a couple of replacement ones. In all, if you go into it assuming you will be breaking some poo poo you will be a lot less disappointed when you're done. There's often nothing you can do about 10+ years old brittle plastic, no matter how careful you are. Also, obviously, make sure all washers and bolts and whatnot go in the right place, as it supposedly has something to do with your safety. Most bolts for the seatbelts have a little plastic washer-ring-thing that will keep stuff from falling apart, but those little washers are also old dirty plastic that sometimes breaks. I just assume my belts work without them. I also used loctite on the bolts that hold the belt in place (top and bottom). It seemed appropriate because stuff there is supposed to move, and there was some loctite on the bolt from when it was originally installed.
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Nov 1, 2015 09:27
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Lube and moderate heat. Something like dish soap and a hairdryer.
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Nov 14, 2015 20:34
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I have an injector with a crack in the pintle cap. The crack runs along the side of the cap, up around the end of it, and down again. The crack is a little bit away from the actual fuel-spraying business end, and ends just where the rubber seal sits. It doesn't look too bad, the cap doesn't seem to want to come off, and when I push on it the crack closes up neatly. Wiggling it around (and comparing to other injectors) it doesn't seem to be loose at all. How much of a reason for concern is this? Will this somehow affect the performance of the injector? I have another spare injector that is broken/blocked but the pintle cap seems good, can that be transplanted somehow?   
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Nov 22, 2015 23:07
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leica posted:Just get some new injectors, it's not like they're outrageously expensive or something, and it will probably help the car run better. I'm just being cheap and want to hold that off for a while if possible. I'm going megasquirt and turbo, but since I want to change as little as possible at a time and maybe need to swap ECU back and forth a couple times, I want to get the new ECU going for a while with the stock injectors before changing to a higher-flow set.
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Nov 23, 2015 08:15
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Partial Octopus posted:So about 1.5k miles after changing my belt I noticed that every 5 minutes or so my engine will chirp and bog down for like a fraction of a second. Could the timing be off due to the belt breaking in or is this unrelated? If the timing is off it's going to run like crap all the time and very noticeably so. When a timing belt jumps it usually does so in just one direction (the direction it's being pulled) and having "bad timing" come and go like that would be strange indeed. So I'd guess it's something else entirely.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:20
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I did a slightly different looking roll bar but I just very loosely threaded the bolts before tightening anything, and even then it required a bit wiggling around. Tightening some bolts up at first and it would never have fit.
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Feb 3, 2016 14:05
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I have a question that has been bugging me for some time. Which way is the proper way to orient the vents in an NA Miata? "X" (as on the left side in this picture) or "+" (on the right)?  When I got the car, they were all in one of these orientations but I think I prefer the other (not telling which since I can't risk causing any bias). Can't notice any difference in speed between the two. My car is some kind of dark metallic blue.
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Feb 12, 2016 11:09
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GutBomb posted:have euro style lane change turn signals where if you tap the stalk enough to not lock it into a direction it blinks 3 times Oh, how I mildly hate those sort-of-auto-flasher things... I can see how it might be a good idea for some people, but unless all the cars I regularly drive would have it, I just find it to be a huge annoyance whenever I encounter one. And even if all were to have it, I still prefer the "manual" flasher. 
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Mar 7, 2016 09:13
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Today I decided it is spring enough that my -97 NA can finally come out of winter storage. Also, someone saw fit to get dirt all over my seat.  Now I just need to change the oil and install a Megasquirt, two thousand various other things and a turbo.
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Mar 12, 2016 23:30
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The other day I had to tension the alternator belt which was squealing and slipping (I changed it late last summer and it must have gotten longer or less grippy over winter). The PS belt was a bit loose so I decided to increase the tension there too. I didn't loosen the bolt holding the tensioner enough, it got stuck after moving a little bit, and being a mechanical supergenius I just kept on wrenching until I broke the bolt. No big deal, I got a generic M8x70mm one to replace it. The short bit I drove it without power steering was enough to convince me not to even consider removing it altogether though.  So now, I have exactly one 13mm bolt on the entire car. There is also one 15mm bolt+nut in one of the rear swaybar drop-links which I also broke taking it apart last year (not quite as much my fault, it was rusted as gently caress). But what good is a socket set if you don't use all of them? Also, as can be seen, the tensioner is near the end of its range. It's a generic 865mm belt I got from somewhere (it was not quite as close before I tensioned it up, I guess it's close to 870mm by now). Are the proper ones supposed to be 850? 855?
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Mar 19, 2016 13:27
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I wore the "teeth" of that adjuster down a lot by pushing on it while turning it. Didn't push very hard, but about as much as I normally would do when turning a regular screw. Just being more gentle helped.
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Mar 21, 2016 09:37
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crutt posted:My 97 doesn't have a torsen and it's okay. It's not okay. In other news anyone wanna make bad decisions with me? 'sup 97+turbo buddy. I have a GT2560R out of some SR20 together with an ilovetacotaco manifold of dubious quality waiting to be installed:  (note how remarkably screwed up the colors are from an iPhone camera in the LED-strip lighting in the attic) There are about two hundred other things I need to do before I get to the turbo install though (wideband o2, iat+map, megasquirt, new injectors, coolant reroute, new oil pressure sensor+gauge, new fuel pump, catch can, egt, and piping and plumbing of four separate fluids), it'll be fun for months to come! Probably a few bad decisions already hidden in my plans and the stuff I've bought, and many more yet to be made. In related news, I just installed a new all-aluminium radiator:  Nothing really wrong with the old one except being a bit dirty, but I do like cooling. I don't want to mess with too much new stuff now as I'm driving down to Nürburgring next week, a 2700km trip + whatever laps we do in two days, but I have had cars with stock cooling overheat on the 'ring before. Apart from the radiator and a check of the associated hoses I just did some regular maintenance bits (oil, plugs, belts), dropped the front suspension back down (had to raise it for some larger wheels I was running last summer) and reinstalled the stock intake. We shall see how it goes, but hopefully I haven't messed anything up. Bought it a year ago and last summer I did about 10000km + two track days with no issues, and I hope it's still as reliable. TheNothingNew posted:There's a hissing sound when the car runs, particularly evident right after it shuts off. I have the same thing. Only ever hear it if I'm under the hood, so I've never cared too much. Slightly curious what it is though. Sounds like it's coming from somewhere around the intake pipe / front of engine. Seems to me like hissing air, but I don't know what would make it make that sound after it's shut off. Best wild guess is it's air going through the IAC valve, and that there's some residual intake vacuum that is relieved on shutoff.
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Apr 16, 2016 19:40
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FatCow posted:It's the vacuum in the intake manifold sucking against the IAC/throttle plate. You only hear it if you dump the OEM intake. I hear it clearly with both the OEM intake and my hastily thrown together hot-air-intake I had until recently. There's slightly less of it with the OEM intake, but not a huge difference.
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Apr 17, 2016 11:26
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Does look a bit to me.
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Apr 20, 2016 23:09
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