Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us $3,400 per month for bandwidth bills alone, and since we don't believe in shoving popup ads to our registered users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
«3 »
  • Post
  • Reply
DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:

God green with tan looks awesome.



Also, how do you guys like my stripes? I painted them myself with like 5 layers of tremclad and alot of wetsanding, and they came out pretty awesome in my opinion.



You need a better helmet. Is that even strapped?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Return Of JimmyJars posted:

I just go in through the top. Put your arm down by the firewall and reach under the intake manifold.

Yeah, I've changed oil on both a 1.6 and 1.8, and I have ginormous arms.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


mobn posted:

You're completely lying about that mileage unless you drive the most stripped out Miata ever. At 80mph you'd be spinning nearly 4500rpms, possibly 5000. There's no way you were pulling off more than 25-30 MPG, and 30's optimistic.

Road trips with only stops for fuel can highly exceed normal mileage, I used to push into the 50s in my Charade when it was only rated like 40 highway. Old 1.6s with proper tire pressure and in good mechanical condition can get suprising fuel economy, despite the fact they don't have the best fuel management (run rich).

edit: The car on the verge of overheating might have helped too, higher engine temperatures lead to better power if the intake air is kept at the same temp, ignoring onset of detonation.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Breaking suspension components to protect the chassis only protects it so much. Sometimes you can get away with the available adjustment on the suspension to get around the mounts being out of place, but remember that rack time is prohibitively expensive.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


PeterWeller posted:

Ahh, so it's "Valvestate."

hahahah.

I've been on and off looking at Miatas, I might decide to get one instead of a 323GTX.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Please don't stir up off-site poo poo, its far more immature than you could ever claim it isn't.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


leica posted:

Why do you care? This is a Miata thread and the discussion is relevant to Miatas. No need to backseat mod.

Because maybe I want to read a thread on SA about Miatas, not dumb poo poo about why you want to blow a guy when everyone wants to stone him. People posted facts about his cars having issues, you posted he's a nice guy so its all wrong. This has nothing to do with Miatas, and all to do with another forum.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


meh

savington edit in more stuff

DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Feb 18, 2008

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


compton rear end terry posted:

Wikipedia says 94-97 used the miata/protege's 1.8

Same engine.


edit: The Koreans used outside engines a lot, I know Mitsubishi engines were used in earlier Hyundais*, and have heard usages of Nissan engines in others.

*I had a Hyundai 4G63 valve cover on my DSM for laughs

DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Mar 17, 2008

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


I bought a 323GTX, and since they run the same basic engine as the earlier NAs (B6), I want to know if I can pull a piston and rod from the bottom of the oilpan without removing the crankshaft. I need to re-ring the #3 cylinder, and I don't want to pull the head if I can get away with it.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


iscariot posted:

pistons come out the top.

drat. I might as well redo the entire engine if I have to pull the head.

Thanks Miata Guys!

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


I don't think its the same setup as the Volvo's which I recall is threaded onto the end of the fuel rail. The Volvo ones are semi-prone to failure, the Miata ones don't seem to be, but go ahead and check that, its easy. Remove the FPR line from the manifold, leave the FPR signal line open, and plus the intake manifold.

I'm thinking the AFM. I've had plenty of fun with flappy AFMs over the years with various vehicles, and they do wear out. Take the AFM out, remove the airbox and get the pinout. Measure the outputs on the rheostat (pushing on the flapper), continuity on the idle/fuel pump switch, and the air temp sensor. They should all be onboard the AFM.

It also could be a huge exhaust blockage, that would do all sorts of funny things to not being able to rev and fuel problems.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Another Miata-esque engine question:

Does the variable valve timing BP engine have different pistons from the older normal BP? I'm considering making my BPT engine'd GTX have VVT, but can't change pistons easily.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Sorry to butt in again, but since the 323 GTX rear diff is the exact same unit that Mazda eventually put in the 1.6L NA cars, I wanted to know what a good limited slip diff if for those early ones. I'd want to buy used, and the whole pumpkin already set up. I have awd and drive hard primarily on gravel/dirt/sand, so lots of rear lockup isn't the biggest issue. Linearity is, however.

A recommendation on a unit and a hint for what sites have classifieds. I'm located in SoCal, if everyone didn't know already.

DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 15:51 on May 8, 2008

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Make sure your battery cables and posts are clean and connected tightly. I don't know how the Miata negative terminal is grounded to the chassis, but give that a good look and check for pinched/frayed/corroded wiring. Optimas take a long time to charge via trickle, so its more likely you have current and voltage limiting corrosion or damage.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Phone posted:

Also check to see if you're low on water in the battery; might be low on electrolytes.

On second thought, put in some Brawndo 'cause it's got electrolytes.

I thought Miatas had sealed batteries, and batteries run on sulfuric acid.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


I'm in the market for a cheap turbo manifold to modify for the GTX, anyone know of a good one that I'd probably have to hack up anyway? It will be hooked up to a GT25, is a 1.6L B6T, and I'm looking for one that hugs the block as much as possible since I'm transverse and have a radiator in somewhat close proximity. I don't mind chopping off a t3 exhaust and closing off an external wastegate port, but I don't want to get stuck welding up holes in a SS AutoCrime manifold halfway through a rally.


There is THIS lovely eBay manifold for $99 with what looks like a t3 flange, at that price I could build support plates and stuff to keep the weight of the turbo off the manifold completely.

This one too looks okay, its already the right flange I do need something that holds the turbo square, I don't think I can have it too close to the hood given my turbo piping goes up rather than down.

DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jul 17, 2008

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Mo Hawk posted:

Hi guys, I just did the light minder conversion as described in http://www.miata.net/garage/buzzer.html
A few days later I noticed that my parking brake light is constantly on. I took the handbrake cover off and checked, it stays on even if I ground the parking brake light connector manually on the chassis. I checked the connector I unplugged earlier under the dash during the light minder conversion, but it is firmly attached.

I am not 100% sure the events are correlated, but they might. What else can I check now?

Check your brake fluid level. The reed switch on your brake fluid reservoir could be acting up, that light is a general brake system warning light, indicating low fluid level or ebrake actuation.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Hypnolobster posted:

That'd be the heater core. I've never done it on a miata and I'm sure it's a bitch.

Not necessarily. If its the A/C only, its the evaporator drain hose, it should be connected to the evap core casing and go out through the firewall nearby. Its likely plugged, broken, or disconnected. Miata heater cores leak coolant, not just water if that is what problem Celot is having.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Negromancer posted:

Well i figured I should post here seeing as I picked up a miata recently. The best thing about it so far is that the engines a hell of a lot easier to work on then my MK1 MR2 was. I managed to pick up a white '93 with ~180k for $2,000. It has a custom leather interior, which is red although its not too obnoxious and the seats are really comfy, a bunch of lovely schucks interior mods which were promptly removed and the soft top is in pretty good shape. Well shortly after I bought it, I realized why it was so cheap, the guy was a idiot and dumped a ton of the radiator stop leak into the engine to try to fix a leak. Well the leak was coming from a rusted out freeze plug, and thanks to me trying to clean the coolant system, it started spurting water everywhere. Luckily its the front one just under the header, so it was a pretty easy fix. I also had to replace the upper radiator hose, one of the heater core hoses, thermostat and radiator cap, but its running like a champ now. I am pretty happy with it, although it can really touch my old mr2 that it replaced after a Mercedes Sprinter van decided that he didn't have to stop at the red light I was stopped at and hit me doing about 35mph. Hopefully I'll get around to doing some more work to it soon. Its begging for new suspension, especially after my MR2 it feels pretty soft.

That is good you are working to fix the cooling system, but you are probably going to need to change everything, heater core and water pump included. If I was buying a Miata, every one of those little hoses would be changed, they aren't particularly well molded and do a lot more work than a 1/4" hose should do.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


I'm trying to get ahold of a NA Cam Angle Sensor and coilpack with wiring connectors, does anyone have any lying around or for a somewhat good price? I'm going MS on the GTX and the CAS bolts right in with no issues.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Ziploc posted:

If you race your car you can sign up for parts at cost here: http://www.mazdaspeedmotorsports.com

I don't think Mazda would even consider supporting the 323 GTX again, it was taken off the MazdaSpeed Competition site a few years ago. I wouldn't even be using parts intended for that model, so I expect that won't work.


That and the parts wouldn't match up to their race-results contingency requirements, and the 30 day waiver wouldn't work. I'll keep that link though, if the car and I do well later on, I'll see if they could get me some old stuff.

DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Oct 7, 2008

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


laymil posted:

Eh, I just checked prices for you on Mazda Competition. A new CAS (NF01-18-230A) looks to be $291.81, down from a list of $395.85. 'Coil & Igniter' (B61P-18-10X) is listed for $149.51, down from $249.23. Planetmiata lists camshaft sensor and coil pack for $125 each (used obviously).

They are fairly open with giving access to racers. If you've raced a Mazda at all this year and have times from an organization (last I checked you needed two), you should be able to get an account. They do still stock parts for old 323s, but I'm not sure about the GTX specific parts. Let me know if you want me to look up anything else.

I think the newest parts they carry is for the 1990+ BG Protege/323 models, nothing engine or suspension-wise is compatible. I think I'll just keep my eyes open for another junkyard Miata I find, $300 is absurd for something I can get for $15. Maybe I can fit a DSM CAS on it, I have a few of those lying around.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


I need some Miata parts.

I need a 1.6L Miata TPS, CAS, coilpack, idle motor and ignitor. I NEED the pigtails for them, no option. I need it for the GTX Megasquirt project. I have paypal. I might ask here before I got onto MiataTurbo.Net and Miata.Net asking jerks for crap when I like you jerks more.


If you are in socal I will take you on 'tuning' runs on some local dirt roads if you want.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


destructo posted:

The hood is fine, it's just got some risers on it, two minute fix.

The super JDM homo factor has been laid upon the car, its more indicative of the car's bad treatment than a simple non-fix would be.



I just got a 1.6L CAS and coilpacks with ignitor for the GTX, and am getting some COPs from Savington so I'm selling the coils and ignitor. Anyone interested?

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


In my GTX parts hoarding, I've amassed a collection of NA 1.6L engine parts in which I don't need anymore. I have a coilpack with bracket and connector, ignitor with bracket and connector, purge solenoid with bracket and connector, a throttle body with the idle motor, TPS, coolant lines, and the air bypass hose, and a perfect condition injector/coolant temp sensor harness. All of these are in great shape, being from low miles California cars. All the wiring is supple and still well taped, no rust or corrosion on anything.

I'm probably put5ting it up on Miata Turbo eventually, but I thought I'd let you guys take grab at it first. Name a price!

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


How hard is dropping the tank on an NA? Krakkles' 91 needs to have the tank replaced, and I picked up a spare but its a Wisconsin rustbucke, so what do I have to remove to get it out? PPF, diff, and all the rear subframe?

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Its starting to warm up in a lot of places, Miatas are starting to be driven, so there are less for sale.


Maybe try looking further away, finding a really well kept Miata should provide you with a great reliable ride back home. California has a huge amount of Miatas for sale, plus they are cheap and there is no corrosion or rust here. Unfortunately that means people drive around on bent up bodypanels

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Phone posted:

The car looks sketchy as gently caress. Turbo Miatas are a ridiculously good value for the money, but you are taking on a huge risk.

Pretty much. The hoses are clamped badly, the vent line is now made of fuel line, the intercooler is dinged to hell, and the dumb bastard insulated his comrpessor outlet line. Its not tape, its a insulating wrap like for a/c lines. Presentation isn't everything but I wouldn't buy it for anything over cheap N/A NA prices since he doesn't care enough to make it look really nice. Engine is clean, though but really 5bucks a pressure washer fixes that.

DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Apr 14, 2009

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Ziploc posted:

How is it non-adjustable?

Probably non-adjustable shocks, coilovers only let you set ride height and preload, unless you swap springs out.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


BEGI swears up and down about their Chincharger kit being reliable, and nobody has posted anything to the contrary about that specific turbo model from their supplier.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


beatdown posted:

When was the last time you changed the spark plugs and wires?

I'd agree with the wires too, that sounds perfect.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


Wow, thats incredibly clean.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


iscariot posted:



Well there's your problem.

This is what happens when you run rich, with water injection that runs out, and start getting knock anyway.

You don't have any warning system for the water injection? No boost cut or anything?

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


My GTX had cylinder honing marks and no ridge and 189K miles at 200% stock boost, so I'm not too surprised. Durability of the B6 and BP engines, I guess. Good combo of block and ring materials.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


I wouldn't have the slighest issue buying a pre-supercharged Miata, but its high price/hp compared to the BEGI Chinacharger or even some amalgamation of the Greddy kit and eBay parts makes it less attractive. The steady torque might be attractive to certain buyers.

Some people want set-it and forget-it stuff, and even with a GT2554R, theres a small amount of lag.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


destructo posted:

I hardly think full boost before 3.5k is lag.


Don't know what planet you are from, but thats called lag. My DSM made 10psi before 3000, and my GTX makes its 9 or so at under 2300. Both stock.

Its boost threshold in reality, but nobody seems to know the difference.

destructo posted:

Tuning is the same as anything else? There's no difference. Superchargers require maintenance too, so I don't see any reason maintenance-wise to pick one over the other, with the exception of chronic stud issues with people who track turbo Miatas.

I don't know about the Rotrex, but the Eaton everyone uses is nigh-on-sealed and only has 100K miles oil change intervals. Maybe a snout bearing here or there, but mechanically no less durable and reliable than a turbocharger kit. Hang a haevy turbo off a N/A exhaust side with shallow studs (the GTX studs are like 1/2" longer) and that is what happens. A brace would seem to help, thats what was done with the GTX, a little metal brace that hooks to the block.

DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Dec 9, 2009

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


90-91 had an issue with the crankshaft breaking its nose off when improperly removed to change the timing belt. Its almost a non-issue with proper work, and most trashed ones have died by now.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


bladernr posted:

Fixed that for ya. And I agree that it's mostly a non-issue any more... and most of the people who own 90 - early 91's thought so too.

The short-nose crank issue stopped being an issue about mid-way through 91. And even for the others, it's not an issue for quite a few early 1.6s out there, though I do agree with kimbo305 about documentation.

Were I looking, I'd just look for a clean 91 and up. Checking the VIN sequence for 91s with and without the short-nose issue is easy. Anything in 91 that is 209446 or lower is short-nose, anything after that is long-nose.

More Info

Yes earlier 91s, but its a non issue if done properly.

I've never actually seen a bad snout b6, even with the pre-Miata GTX engines that the Miata shortnose came from in the first place. It takes some pretty shoddy repair work and just bad practices to cause the problem. Its a combo of over/understorquing, corrosion, and just general poo poo workmanship.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


You'd have to have an odd tensioner failure to load properly to do anything other than an integer of teeth off on crank/cam pulleys.

You can't really drop a lifter, since its directly actuated valves with a 'lifter' (its really a lash adjuster) inbetween the cam lobe and valve top.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply
«3 »