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I'm going to check out this Miata this weekend, and I wondering what you guys thought of it? It has my favorite color combo and looks like it has a decent amount of options. What would be a good price to pay?
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Oct 17, 2007 23:31
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crutt posted: That's one of the best looking Miatas I've ever seen!
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Nov 17, 2010 06:19
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aventari posted:I love the wheels are full lock I just can't stop laughing at this statement. 
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Nov 26, 2010 23:05
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unknown poster posted:Made some t-shirts....Theyre pretty rad... Holy poo poo, I'm buying one right now.
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Feb 12, 2011 00:24
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crutt posted:Fixed my valve cover gasket a few days ago. Glad thats overwith. Anyone want to buy this thing? drat, that's a nice ride. How much are you asking?
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Mar 18, 2011 05:30
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televiper posted:I'm not looking to spend a boat-load, so top contenders are the Continental ExtremeContact DWS and the Maxxis Victra. I have the Continentals (but not on a Miata). They are a pretty decent fair weather tire, but don't even think of going anywhere in the snow. I got stuck during a dusting of snow in a parking lot that I previously believed to be flat. They do better than summers in cold weather and are far more quiet than any summers I've ever owned.
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Mar 24, 2011 06:16
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People also lie about ridiculously stupid poo poo all the time, so, rather than looking like a fool when you point out that his car isn't completely stock, he just goes into denial mode and claims that it is. I wouldn't make too big of a fuss about it.
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Apr 12, 2011 04:14
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Haven't seen it yet, how much Miata could one get for $2500? quote:don't think it is a mx-5 but is a strait miata. not safetied, needs some work Sounds like this is either a really great deal, or a horrifically lovely one. Either way, it won't take long after seeing it to find out.
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Jun 16, 2011 01:54
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Hermansen posted:Are those Supra headlights? Also, that "roll bar" looks like it was designed specifically to crush your head and neck in an accident.
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Jun 22, 2011 16:03
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So, a friend of mine owns a turbo 99 that he doesn't really drive anymore since he bought a Genesis Coupe. He said he would be willing to let it go for $3,000 sans the turbo. I remember him complaining about a year ago that the car kept blowing coil packs, is this a common problem? What is the cause? Are their any other known issues with the '99 that I should know about?
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Jun 24, 2011 22:15
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Phone posted:The 1999 and 2000 cars just eat coilpacks. IOwnCalculus posted:The only other '99-specific issue I can think of is the fuel filler issue, Thanks guys. I'm glad to see that this is a known problem and can be fixed. Now I just need to sell the idea of a second car to my girlfriend and wait for my friend to get back to the states. n8r posted:Why would you want it without the turbo? Honestly, because it is a home-brew kit that I don't think he ever got running right. For the next two years, I won't have a place to work on cars, so I need this to be as reliable as possible.
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Jun 27, 2011 15:44
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rocket posted:One thing I learned several years ago that's essential for driving any car, It should be noted that it is practically impossible to back into a parking spot with the mirrors configured this way. I finally got fed up with having to adjust my mirrors to backup and grabbed a set of those fish eye mirrors instead.
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Jul 23, 2011 02:43
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DJ Commie posted:I don't know if I could take the parts Miata, but I could just swap the engine to that and drive it home This is seriously one of the most AI comments I've ever heard here.
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Sep 2, 2011 02:43
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One would think that with all the time they spent creating that monstrosity, they would at least vacuum out the drat car before taking pictures.
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Oct 8, 2011 05:04
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blugu64 posted:Are winter tires/all seasons a necessary item for my climate in winter? I agree that a second set of tires is a bit overkill for you. Is there any way that you can bum rides off of someone on those occasional snow days?
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Dec 4, 2011 22:58
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Nodoze posted:What about no ABS? I don't miss it one bit.* * Ask me again next time someone pulls out in front of me though.
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Jan 27, 2012 00:14
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redmercer posted:I dunno, I don't think I could drive a car cousins probably hosed in. For that price, I'd buy it, semen stains and all. In fact, I wish I had $4,500 laying around.
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Feb 5, 2012 00:25
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n8r posted:Most of the value of the special edition Miatas is in the eyes of the owners, not of the buyers. It's a nice combination, especially the wheels, but I think the color would detract from most buyers rather than attract them. That color is loving sexy. I detest most yellow cars, but that particular Miata looks better than any NB I've seen. It really highlights the curves of the car far more than most of the other colors offered.
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Feb 15, 2012 07:42
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destructo posted:Post a more appealing ad when you see a real one pop up, then bait the dealer until you pick yours up :v That's a bad rear end idea.
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Feb 27, 2012 06:35
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With Mazda's financial troubles, we might see the ND development pushed back for a while.
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Mar 13, 2012 18:35
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What is everyone's opinion on these for a '99? I like their looks, weight, and price. The only issue I have with them is that they require a lug adapter. Will I run in any issues using a lug adapter at all?
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Mar 22, 2012 00:08
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Tire Rack just put that as one of the free installation hardware but didn't provide a picture. I have no clue why they include it. It may be what IOwnCalculus said.tirerack posted:(16) Required lugnut for vehicle (Nickel Plated) I guess I'll go ahead and pull the trigger them then. The 949racing wheels look awesome, but they are a bit more than I'm wanting to spend. Thanks guys.
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Mar 22, 2012 01:11
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Welp, the MX-5 that I was going to buy fell through. My friend updated the megasquirt firmware in the car to the latest version and it decided to wipe out the tune on it and he can't find the backups. So, we spent the majority of the day today getting the car to run decently, our first drive around the block resulted in a loving quart of oil being dumped all over the ground. To make matters worse, when I hopped out of the car to make a phone call, a neighborhood cat decided that the passenger seat would make an awesome place to take a piss... I'm going to consider that to be my sign to just forget about this car. There is no way that we will be able to get the car in condition where it can reliably make the eight hour trek back home with me since my friend deploys to Afganistan next week. And I honestly don't have the mechanical skill to be able to get this car into tip-top shape. Here's the list of what has been done it: 4-2-1 headers Megasquirt v2 560cc Injectors new timing belt, oil pump, RMS, starter, clutch, slave cylinder, and probably a few other items Semi-new (used) transmission Semi-new top. The bad: Needs an O2, MAF sensor and an intake. Is leaking oil from some place. It shouldn't be from the oil pan or RMS because those are brand new, but since it can't be driven to my friend's work, we can't figure out what it is. The meh: No A/C or P/S. The P/S pump is still in the car, but it is not hooked up because the mount broke. The interior has been completely detailed, but it is not in the car ATM. (Yes, the cat piss was cleaned up) This would probably make for a good racecar and/or engine swap candidate. The body is straight but has some peeling paint and general wear on it. This also means that I have some brand new wheels and tires sitting 600 miles from where I live that need to go as well. Wheels: http://clarksville.craigslist.org/pts/2933500957.html Car: http://clarksville.craigslist.org/cto/2933500162.html
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Apr 1, 2012 02:16
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You would probably end up with a nicer car and a little bit of change in your pocket after selling yours. It isn't *that* crazy.
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Apr 3, 2012 19:05
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Alright, I did something really I am having problems getting it to stay running though. It has a megasquirt ECU from when it was turbocharged, but the map on it got wiped accidentally. My friend got it to the point where it will idle fine, but any time it revs over 2,500 RPMs, the engine dies. I can't seem to find a base map, does anybody know where I can get one? I plan on getting this onto a dyno ASAP, but I would like to get the car in at least drivable before then. Obligatory lovely Cellphone Picture 
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Apr 7, 2012 22:52
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Thanks for that link. Reading through that explains the alternator issue that I've been having as well. I had chalked it up to a loose tensioner, I didn't realize that the ECU was responsible for regulating the alternator. At this point, I'm thinking that I should replace the injectors with stock ones and then take the megasquirt out.
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Apr 8, 2012 02:39
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DreamOn13 posted:If you get a decent base map and take 2 minutes to scale for the injectors it should run like stock. How large are they? The injectors are 550cc. I'll try loading that map for the 97 off of DIYAutoTune and see how that goes. I actually ended up buying some factory injectors since I don't need the larger ones and I should be able to sell them for more than I paid for the stockers ($85). Hopefully this makes things much more simple. My big fear right now is the alternator regulator. My friend suggested that, instead of wiring up the alternator regulator circuit (since I have no clue how), I could try putting on one from an earlier NB and see if that fixes the problem where I get a battery warning light on three out of four starts.
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Apr 9, 2012 02:19
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Alright, today I started digging into the Miata. I had to take a look at the fuel injector connectors to see if the aftermarket ones use the same connector as the stock ones. Unfortunately, they don't, so I'll need to buy four of the clips that plug the stock injector into the wiring harness. I discovered an alarming number of unplugged sensors that I don't know what they are for. Do you think you guys could help me out? With this one, the blue wire has been cut and replaced with a wire that goes to the cabin.  I'm pretty sure this would be for the mass airflow sensor (which is in the trunk).  There is a hose coming from the upper intake manifold that has been capped. It looks like it is just long enough to fit over this, is that were it is supposed to go? Is this for emissions?  This one was running along the back of the engine bay. I have no other clues.  Is this the crank position sensor? Is there any reason why it would be cut and spliced like that?  Also, what would cause the auxiliary fan to run when plugged in, even when the car is not running?
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Apr 20, 2012 00:27
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Granite Octopus posted:Does the car even run?! That's an alarming number of unplugged things. The white plastic bit sticking out of the valve cover is the PVC valve, and it should connect to the top of the intake manifold. I don't know enough about NAs to answer anything else. It idles, but it won't rev over 2,000 rpms. But yeah, I'm definitely seeing that the PO was in over his head when it comes to the electrical stuff. I took a look under the dash to see how bad the damage to the stock wiring harness going to the factory ECU is...I'm expecting it to take me about 20 or so hours just to get the wiring back together. It's an NB though, if that helps. What is really concerning me is the four terminal white plug near the back of the engine. Edit: FatCow posted:Is this car running an aftermarket ECU? Looks like a megasquirt setup there. Sorry, yes, it is a '99 running an MS2 and 550cc injectors that I'm trying to revert back to stock. I believe it is one of the wires running through the fender. Good to know that I can dump that air intake sensor though. FatCow posted:PCV valve, should go to a large opening on the intake manifold. That isn't the correct PCV for a Miata unless the 99-00 motor uses a different one than all the other motors. FatCow posted:Front o2 sensor. Okay, awesome; the PO told me that it needed a new o2 sensor, so I'm happy to see that it wasn't just cut and spliced. oRenj9 fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Apr 20, 2012 |
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Apr 20, 2012 18:05
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FatCow posted:The plug in the back isn't an issue at all. He has a wideband wired directly to the Megasquirt instead of using the factory narrowband. Mine is exactly the same. It actually doesn't, the wide band sensor died and I was told it wasn't replaced with anything. I haven't had a chance to get under it yet because it is parked on the street. Thanks a bunch for your help though, I'm sure I will be picking your brains a lot more in the near future.
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Apr 20, 2012 18:12
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quote:Under the plan, the Mazda and Alfa Romeo models will share a basic rear-wheel drive platform being developed for the next-gen MX-5, which is due out next year as a 2014 model. When were release dates for the ND confirmed? I thought everything regarding the ND was essentially speculation at this point. funkyaintit posted:An Alpha MX-5 could really be a thing of beauty. Maybe I'm a minority, but I think the NC is pretty drat good looking, especially in red. My only issue with the design is the "  ", but I think everybody hates that.
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May 24, 2012 00:06
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How hard it is to replace the entire ECU wiring harness on a '99? After looking at the rats nest that is the result of the PO installing a Megasquirt, I'm hesitant to want to deal with trying to splice everything back together.
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May 29, 2012 16:56
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I made some progress on my project to remove the Megasquirt from my Miata. I finished rewiring the stock ECU connectors. Other than the discomfort of sitting the wrong way in a Miata trying to crimp together wires, it wasn't too bad. Unfortunately, I hit a major snag and another minor one. The minor issue that is puzzling me, there is a solenoid or relay mounted on the back of the intake manifold that makes a constant clicking sound when it gets power. It appears to be attached to the actuator for the butterfly valves in the lower intake manifold. Any ideas as to the cause of this? During my investigation, I noticed a few butt-splices coming from the fuse box in the engine bay. The lower half of the fuse box itself was hanging on by just one clip and it looked like a little black plastic Pac Man. The splice just appeared to be two wires that were cut and subsequently reattached to one another. After investigating the fuse box and bolting it back, the car won't start; there are no lights or anything when I put the key in the ignition. A reasonable hypotheses would be that there is a lose connector somewhere in the box, but I'm not sure where. I gave most of them a decent tug and they seemed to be attached, I'm going to investigate again tomorrow I guess. I'm so pissed, I was really hoping that this drat thing would run after I rewired the ECU. I guess this is just the kind of punishment you should expect when buying somebody else's project car.
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Jun 19, 2012 05:12
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Phone posted:I haven't driven a Miata in over 6 months. Just a few more paychecks. I've had mine for four months now and the longest drive I've managed to get it running has been to move it two parking spots down.   
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Jul 24, 2012 04:45
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I would be interested in some parts when the time comes around as well.
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Aug 30, 2012 01:12
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leica posted:I understand that, but there are much better platforms if your ultimate goal is fuel conservation. Just seems kinda silly to mod a Miata like that. They are dead simple to work on, so there is that. But yeah, I don't see the point of putting all of that effort into making a Miata even slower to use a fuel that is not even as efficient. A VW diesel would have been a cooler swap.
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Oct 18, 2012 04:55
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Where's the cheapest place to pick up replacement coil packs? I'm pretty sure that mine have poo poo the bed. The car cranks but wont start, I'm not getting a signal from coil pack when I prob it with a multimeter while cranking.
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Dec 27, 2012 07:56
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poxin posted:I'll double check it but I normally click it down at least 3-4 times when I fill up. Check for any lose connections under the hood.
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Jan 4, 2013 02:17
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Alright, I need some help getting my '99 to start. It wasn't getting spark, so I checked the coil packs with a continuity tester and did not see a signal, so I figured they were bad and replaced them. This did no solve the issue. So this must be a wiring issue; I downloaded this wiring diagram and started diagnosing the problem. According to the diagram, the black/white cable (far left, IIRC) going to the coil pack should be hot, but it wasn't, even with the key in the ignition. Judging from the diagram, this problem would be caused by one of two things: a blown injector fuse or a bad main relay. Both are fine, the injector lead is hot as is the lower left corner on the main relay. So the problem must the connection from the fuse/relay to the coil pack. I also testing for continuity on the brown wire from the PCM while the engine was cranking; no go. I checked the engine fuse under the dash and it was fine as well. What should I look at next? I am think the issue is that the leads are getting grounded somewhere, but I have no idea how to find out where without walking down the entire wiring harness. oRenj9 fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Apr 3, 2013 |
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Apr 3, 2013 04:12
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How do I test that the crank and cam position sensors are sending a signal? I'm not getting a spark on my 99. The voltage (both blk/red and brn wires) and ground to the coil pack are fine and I just replaced the coil pack, so that's not the problem. Both of those sensors are getting power, but I'm at a loss as to how to determine if they are sending signals without compromising the wires. Edit: the only equipment I have is a cheap multimeter.
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Jul 27, 2013 23:48
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