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Since this thread is back up, I thought I'd ask, is pulling out the stock seats in a miata and putting in some little bucket seats a good idea for extra leg room? I'm 6'2" and I'm thinking about a miata this summer, and like all big guys, I'm worried about fitting in the little things (looking at early 90's models in my price range).
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Jan 6, 2009 02:25
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destructo posted:Try sitting in one first, depending on how your body fits you may be just fine, or you might be on the edge of comfort. There are plenty of guides to perform a "foamectomy" on the stock seats to gain a couple inches, or you can just get some cheap buckets (Sparo Speed, Memoryfab, etc) and bolt them to the floor. Yeah, I really just need to sit in one for starters, I'm just worried because the only "small" car I've really driven is my girlfriends 2000 ford escort coupe, and with the seat all the way back, the wheel is no more than an inch or less above my legs, which bothers me. Thanks for the advice, however.
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Jan 6, 2009 16:22
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I'm thinking of buying a miata this summer, and I'm going to have around 4k to spend. Assuming I can fit in one of these little things (6'2", 200lbs), what sort of things should I be looking for in that price range? I doubt I can find a really nice specimen, but how much life do their engines have? I'm not too comfortable buying something that has over 120-150k on the clock, not knowing how well the previous owner(s) took care of them.
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Apr 17, 2009 16:55
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Well, I'm actually looking to get my hands dirty with this, as it will be my first car and I want to learn how to maintain and work on my cars myself, so I'm not scared by labor. What does worry me is learning how to diagnose problems, which I imagine mostly comes from reading and experience. Are these cars easy(ish) to work on? I've been considering other little Japanese cars because of their reliability/insurance, since I don't have a whole lot of cash but want a fun car, and miatas have the best availability, since they are so popular. Stuff like a Mk.1 MR2 or a Celica were also options with the same budget, but with those options it seems like they are harder to find in general, and in worse condition than miatas. I've yet to sit in an NA miata, though, so they might come back on the table if it's too cramped.
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Apr 17, 2009 19:17
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Ok, I just went and drove 2 cars, and would like some of your guys' opinions based on their listings. http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1117489694.html This one looked great, few paint scrapes, good looking engine bay, the seller was very honest, free with the information. Car stayed in one family for all it's life, good condition, inside and out, sounds a little better than the one below. http://annarbor.craigslist.org/ctd/1111551399.html This one is from a small shop selling it on behalf of the one owner. Power steering would be nice, but it's a light car and not too big a deal for me. After taking a look at this one, it's been on the lot for a while now, and I think I could talk the price down a bit. Never bought a car before, so any tips/wisdom would be appreciated. I'm leaning a little bit towards the '92, mostly because the seller has bought several miatas over the years, after moving on from triumphs and alpha romeos. He seemed like a really knowledgable buyer, and he's only had the car for a few months after the person he was buying it for lost her job.
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Apr 25, 2009 21:22
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And if he doesn't? What makes you say the 92, as well? Thanks, by the by.
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Apr 25, 2009 22:25
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After test-driving a miata, I've determined that my 6'2" frame can fit, but I would like some extra leg-room, mostly. Head is a little tight, but I can deal with that. Immediately, removing the driver's-side door handle will free up some knee room for working the clutch, but I was wondering if there were any more...tasteful seat options other than the  racing seats out there that might net me some extra room? Also, does anyone have some experience replacing the steering wheel with something smaller that isn't $2-300, or should I plan on spending a lot if I want to do that, for quality/safety reasons?
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Apr 27, 2009 15:58
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willd58 posted:Which Miata did you drive, the mk2.5 sports seats make the car allot smaller inside. It was a 92
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Apr 27, 2009 16:34
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Can anyone comment on how long the 1.6l engines from the early 90s tend to last? I got a buddy who is quite adamant that 4cyl engines are only expected to last to around 150k, and I'm looking at a car that has around 133 on the clock.
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Apr 28, 2009 18:10
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Phone posted:OH GOD MY CAR WITH 162K IS GOING TO BLOW UP ANY loving MINUTE OH GOD OH GOD That's what I figured... I also wanted to ask is it worth it to pay a premium because it's a "california car," because I'm in michigan. Is salt from our winters a big deal? I mean, there's a guy advertising a 95 with less miles for almost 2 grand less, is the cheaper one probably going to have problems and not worth the lower price? for comparison: http://detroit.craigslist.org/cto/1133877657.html vs http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1117489694.html EDIT: Sorry to keep asking questions I guess, I've never bought a car before and I'm nervous about getting a lovely deal because of inexperience.
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Apr 28, 2009 18:21
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I'm scared of high mileage and have a mech engineering friend who hates 4cyls over 100k send halp. EDIT: He's actually quite good about cars, aside from his BMW fetish The Third Man fucked around with this message at 18:49 on May 3, 2009 |
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May 3, 2009 18:07
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Phone posted:The Third Man needs convincing. Everybody, tell him that this is a decent car to buy for sub-5500: http://detroit.craigslist.org/cto/1151237561.html Went and saw and drove it, and it was quite good. The interior is great, and the car as a whole is very, very clean. Engine bay is immaculate, no sign of leaks, no rattles when driving, though I only took it up to 45 or so. Seller seemed very honest and it looks like he took great care of the car. Originally was sold in Louisiana, and the seller bought it from Illinois, so he was the third owner. Said no winter driving, looked to be true. Mileage is still a little worrisome, and I'm not going to buy it with the hardtop, since I don't really need it and don't have a garage to keep it in. He's asking for 5, with no hard top, and I'm thinking of seeing if I can get it for 4500 if he lets me get it inspected beforehand. He also has a lot of records, though not a complete history, and a clean carfax. How do you other owners feel about the mileage, given the car is really nice condition otherwise? For perspective, I was looking at another car today as well with literally half the miles for 4500, but it had been sitting in a garage for 2 years, and hadn't really been driven at all, so there was some rot in the tires and mildew spots on the convertible top. What, if any, is the difference between a low-mileage car that hasn't been taken care of too well as opposed to a high-mileage example that has been cared for?
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May 3, 2009 23:30
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I know timing belts should be done between 100-150 for these cars, how many miles should I get out of a clutch?
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May 4, 2009 00:10
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I think michigan/midwest has high prices relative to the south/california, which kind of sucks.
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May 4, 2009 01:50
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If only there was a way to replace that with a noise that reminded my to shut my goddamn lights off... I've had to get jumped once already, and I can't count the times I have gotten halfway up the stairs to my apartment and noticed I left them on. Goddamn I'm a retard.
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May 27, 2009 16:37
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I think it throws me off since it's obvious when the main lamps are on, since they are pop ups for my NA, but when it's just the evening and I click on the little running lights or whatever you want to call them, it's real easy to forget about them when you park. Left them on for 2 days and completely drained my battery... Speaking of, after I did that my radio no longer works and is just reading "cod e", any ideas as to what that means, or should I dig out my manual?
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May 27, 2009 17:08
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I've got a 95 still with the original paintjob, and it looks fantastic for being 14 years old, but there are still 14 years work of nicks and chips on the front of the car. It's all speckled with white and it's kind of bugging me, and I was wondering if there was a way of dealing with this? Is it possible to go to town with a tube of touch-up paint? Also, how much would I expect for it to be repainted?
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Jun 7, 2009 20:17
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posted this in the stupid questions megathread:quote:This afternoon marked the second time in a couple weeks where I've started my car for the first time in a day or two, and the engagement point for the clutch has been significantly lower than normal. It engages much sooner than I'm used too and really throws me since I'm still learning stick. It seems to normalize after a bit of driving, but it's still rather worrisome. I would hazard a guess that this has something to do with the master cylinder? I can't understand why the problem would slowly disappear as the car gets warmed up, though. This is a 95 miata, if it matters. They told me to go here. Is this a common/predictable problem?
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Jun 9, 2009 14:32
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This is only the second time I've noticed in maybe 2-3 weeks, and it usually goes away after driving for several minutes, and does not come back. It's only just after a cold start after the car has been sitting for a day or two, as far as I can tell in the couple times it has happened.
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Jun 9, 2009 15:18
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Well seeing as it's a relatively easy repair, this might be a fun job for me to get my feet wet with, and maybe I can change the oil while I'm under there. I'll need to buy some tools and jack stands, though. First of all, am I ok with just the little OEM jack for changing tires with for now? Also, what are some recommended jack stands and sockets? Is there a set of sockets/extensions that you guys would recommend getting started with? According to the write-up on miata.net I should only need 8/10/12mm sockets for this. That and a flare nut wrench for the nut on the clutch line.
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Jun 9, 2009 16:26
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Just decided to go out to sears and scored a gargantuan craftsman wrench/socket set for something like 130 bucks, and powerbilt floor jack, and a pair of jack stands. That should be a good start. Will I need to order anything else other than the slave cylinder, and some new brake fluid for the reservoir? I think I will need some rubber tubing for bleeding, can I pick that up at any auto parts store?
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Jun 10, 2009 00:43
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The only thing I'm worried about is getting enough clearance with the jack to get the stands set under. The jack maxes out at 13" and the minimum height on the stands is 14". What's the safest thing to boost the jack a couple inches with, a sturdy piece of lumber? I was told it wouldn't really be a problem, I'd just have to jack from a lower point than where I would fit the stands.
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Jun 10, 2009 04:28
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oh yah, another question about the clutch slave cylinder, how important is having a torque wrench for this, if at all?
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Jun 11, 2009 00:43
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Any particular brake fluid you guys would recommend while I'm swapping out the clutch slave cylinder this weekend, or should any brand I can find at someplace like NAPA do?
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Jun 12, 2009 20:45
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FireTora posted:Any DOT 3 Fluid will be fine. thanks a lot.
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Jun 12, 2009 20:57
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Any of you guys want to weigh in on the lifter noise problem that these cars have? Has anyone had any luck getting rid of it with heavier/synthetic oil? It's pretty annoying on my car, and I'd like to get rid of it...
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Jun 13, 2009 16:03
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Trip report: welp. I'm a goddamn idiot and slightly stripped the pipe union nut on the clutch line into the slave cylinder. I tried to make it better by going out and buying a flare wrench, but it would not fit over the nut. Some fucker tightened that goddamn thing down somehow, and nothing I am now doing will get it off. I hit it with some penetrating grease/oil spray and tapped the poo poo out of it to try and get it to come off, to no avail. I guess there is a lesson hear, once I felt that that fucker wasn't budging I should have stopped and gone to get the flare wrench... What are my options now to try and get that thing loose?
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Jun 14, 2009 01:25
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Savington posted:Your wish is my Hey thanks, that was really helpful. Before I go and do that, would you happen to have any suggestions for getting off that nut on the hard line without completely rounding it off, now that I've partially done just that? Maybe dremel it down so I can get the flare wrench over it?
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Jun 15, 2009 20:41
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How much does it cost to repair some rusting in the rocker panels? I've got some rust that I'd like to take care of before it spreads too far, and it's only in a small section in front of the passenger-side rear wheel.
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Jun 17, 2009 16:12
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Some people buy cars based on how fun they are to drive, not how they look. Anyone who seriously thinks miatas are "human being" cars probably drives a lifted SUV with a license plate that reads "sizmtrs"
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Jul 6, 2009 20:48
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My 95 does it, it's annoying as gently caress, but generally goes away as the engine warms up. I tried switching to 10W30 Mobile 1, and I think it helped a bit, but not much.
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Jul 11, 2009 01:29
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Tire question: I've never bought tires before, and I need something that isn't too expensive, but I don't really want to get lovely tires, either. I don't autocross or anything near racing, but I'd still like a set that performs well under normal/spirited driving situations, and won't kill me in the rain. If I want to drive in the winter I will probably get a dedicated set. Only other criteria is that I'd like something with some nice white lettering on the walls, just cause I think it'd look nice with the car. Is there something out there like that for maybe 50-75 dollars a tire?
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Jul 15, 2009 00:19
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14", I believe.
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Jul 15, 2009 00:46
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Hey, I'm also thinking about a hard top, is there a noticeable difference between the first and second generation, other than the rear window defrost? How about noise? And how much should I expect to pay for one in reasonable condition?
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Jul 21, 2009 04:04
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Phone posted:Depending on what you want, it'll cost you about 1k for the hardtop, then a couple hundred in striker/defroster hardware. yeah... I see a couple used ones on craigslist for 5-700, is there any reason to avoid them if they don't look like poo poo? I know I need striker plates, is the defroster poo poo absolutely necessary?
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Jul 21, 2009 16:29
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well, I don't really want to spend more than 6-700 if I decide I wanna get one, so if it's not falling apart and looks as nice as the OEM one I probably won't care too much. Anyone able to comment on the noise reduction with a headline, as opposed to without?
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Jul 21, 2009 17:41
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Diverting from tires, I've read a few times now that rebuilding the shifter is a good idea because the boot can tear, among other things. Would anyone happen to know if there is a simple kit I can buy to do this, and if there is a little walkthrough I can follow to do this(as well as replacing the turret fluid?)
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Jul 23, 2009 04:37
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Thanks a lot, ordered. How much does it help the feel if you replace these, if your old boot(s) are torn?
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Jul 23, 2009 14:34
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Would you recommend any particular gearbox oil for it? It's only a few ounces, so if getting some nicer stuff makes a difference it would probably be worth it.
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Jul 23, 2009 17:26
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Two hard top questions: 1. Important, is there any change in height from the soft top to the hardtop? I'm 6'2" and fit in with the top up, but not by too much. does the hardtop reduce the height of the cabin? 2. I've found a seller, and he says the he believes the striker places are attached to the top. I'm not sure though, because for my NA the only strikers I need attach to the seatbelt towers. If he does not in fact have those, is it possible/safe to drive the car back from picking it up with the top latched to the windshield and the frankenstein bolts? Lastly, am I correct that a 95 NA only needs the side-mounted strikers, and that an OEM mazda top will latch to the windshield and bolts on the back without any additional hardware?
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Jul 27, 2009 14:13
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